MM Collection
Dispatches from afar - the Alaska Range. Josh Terrell photo
Checking in from the Condor's Nest on Illimani, Bolivia. MM Collection
Writing dispatches in camp on Kilimanjaro. Mark Gunlogson photo
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August 22, 2014

Weather in the Alps Won't Stop the Madness

This summer hasn't been the best in the Alps in terms of the weather and therefore the conditions. It has been raining a lot and the high peaks are covered with fresh snow. The good news is that in the Alps it is fairly easy to go to a different area and still get a great day of alpinism. Following that idea, we just finished a trip in Europe with five summits instead of three.

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August 19, 2014

Pik Lenin Expedition Reaches Base Camp

We have arrived at Base Camp to beautiful skies, Pik Lenin rising directly above. The drive to camp took us over a nearly 4000 meter pass, on a highway that, in places, was so damaged there was room only for one vehicle.  We drove south from Osh, through the Trans-Altai mountain range, finally emerging into the Alay Valley and the start of the Pamir Range and Pik Lenin. [+] READ MORE

August 18, 2014

First Report from Pik Lenin Expedition

We have a great group for Pik Lenin, and we had a good first day in the country.  We explored the city of Osh and viewed the most famous sights.  First we hiked up Sulayman Mountain, the only World Heritage site in Kyrgyzstan.  The mountain has been a destination for Muslim and pre-Muslim pilgrimages in this 3000 year old city.  The mountain is surrounded by legend and it is said that women who ascend the mountain and crawl through an opening in the holy rock will have healthy children. 

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August 15, 2014

Glorious Cascade Summer Welcomes Climbers to Mount Triumph

It's early August in the Cascades and high barometric pressure has been providing an excellent weather window for rock routes on the higher peaks. Nate, Sara and I had a great trip on Mount Triumph, a Cascade classic in a remote setting with amazing views of the Pickets to the north and the North Cascades to the south. [+] READ MORE

August 15, 2014

North Ridge of Baker

The weekend of  July 20th Yoshiko and I guided the North Ridge of Mount Baker.  Going into the trip, as we often see in the Cascades, an inch of rain was forecasted for the first day of the trip.  When I see rainfall amounts like that I generally try to find an umbrella or a backup plan.  Fortunately a backup plan presented itself, and my catlike aversion to wetness was fulfilled.  We spent the first day of our trip at Mount Erie reviewing some rock climbing techniques, as well as belaying, rappelling, and multi-pitch transitions.  

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