Mount Kenya
Technical Rock Climbs on the Equator at over 17,000 feet / 5182 meters
Mount Kenya is, as the phrase goes, “a mountaineer’s mountain.” There are no easy routes up this extinct volcano. It has the same allure as such legendary peaks as the Matterhorn, standing isolated above the surrounding alpine region.Your trek to basecamp includes a Dr. Seuss-like landscape with bizarre plants, baboons, elephants and more to keep it interesting. If a 15 – 20 pitch rock route up to 5.7 in an exotic location appeals to your senses, grab your rock shoes and join us in Kenya.
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Trip Perks
While seeing the hyrax itself may not be a perk, this small, furry marmot-like creature is the closest living relative of the elephant and speaks to the weirdness of the flora and fauna of the area. Likewise, if you see Cape buffalo dung, give pause. By itself it’s harmless, but if the perpetrator is nearby, you may want to consider that this beast is the second most dangerous animal in Africa. The most dangerous is the unassuming and deceptively docile looking hippopotamus. This stunning wildness will be your constant companion on this trip, and the amazing birdlife at the Naro Moru Lodge is not to be missed.
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Description
Stand on Mount Kenya and you are straddling the equator. Mount Kenya sits in the center of what is referred to as the Central Highlands, in an ecologically diverse environment that rivals Mount Kilimanjaro, and in fact contains more wildlife. Bizarre plants, such as the giant groundsel, senesias, and lobelia, are unique to the area. Mount Kenya National Park is home to wild and wooly creatures such as the Cape buffalo, elephants, a variety of monkeys, rich birdlife, and more.
Set against this backdrop it’s hard to imagine a more intriguing high altitude rock climb than Mount Kenya. While most volcanic mountains play host to dangerously loose rock, the stone you’ll encounter here is solid, with a multitude of incut holds to keep the enjoyment levels high and the difficulty moderate
Climbers have a choice of routes and seasons. During early December to March the Shipton route is at its best, which leads to the Nelion summit of this twin-peaked mountain. From June to September the North Face Standard route is the optimal way to reach the summit of Batian, the mountain’s other summit. Both offer outstanding climbing.
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Price
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Mount Kenya
$7,500 – 11-12 Days / Includes travel time
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Price Includes
- Guide(s) and camp staff
- Park Fees
- VAT
- Two nights in private luxury camp in Arusha National Park before the climb; includes game viewing and hiking
- Scheduled accommodations, dayroom lodge accommodation after the climb, quality expedition camps on the mountain
- All meals while staying in camps or lodges
- Mountain orientation and equipment check the afternoon before the climb
- All group camping and cooking equipment
- Porters
- All land transportation and airport transfers on scheduled arrival and departure dates and times
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Price does not Include
- International airfare
- Tanzania entry visa and airport fees
- Immunizations
- Personal equipment and clothing
- Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra hotel nights, extra meals, etc.)
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- All expenses associated with non-scheduled departure
- Alcoholic and bottled beverages
- Guide/Staff gratuities
- Airport transfers for independent arrival or departure
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
Climb is Arranged on a Custom Basis — Contact Us
December — March
Climbers ascend the Shipton Route to the summit of Nelion
June — September
Climbers ascend the North Face Standard directly to Batian
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
International Trips/Courses:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
The total number of days for your trip includes all travel to and from your destination, with some exceptions. Dates listed on the website start with your departure date from the U.S. and include the day you arrive home. For this trip you will need to arrive in Nairobi, Kenya on Day 2. You can arrive any time on Day 2. You will be met at the airport by a Mountain Madness representative and transferred to your hotel.
Your return flight home will also be an overnight flight departing from Nairobi, Kenya in the late evening on the second to last day of the itinerary for a night flight back to the U.S. or your final destination.
Flights may vary if traveling from outside of the US and may shorten the overall duration of your trip. Please contact our office for any help needed with your flight schedule.
Mount Kenya Nelion / December - March Climbs
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Day 1
Travel
Depart from home and travel to Nairobi, Kenya.
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Day 2
Nairobi Hotel
Arrive in Nairobi, Kenya. A Mountain Madness representative will meet you on the evening of Day 2 and transfer you to the hotel.
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Day 3
Mountain Lodge
Elevation: 10,000 ft / 3048 m
We will drive for about five hours to the Mountain Lodge on the Chogoria Route. This lodge is just above the forest and affords great views toward the many peaks surrounding Mt. Kenya.
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Day 4
The Gates
Elevation: 13,000 ft / 3962 m
Today we hike for 4 – 6 hours to the Gates. We will camp at Lake Ellis with an awe-inspiring view of Mt. Kenya in the distance.
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Day 5
Mintos Hut / Halls Tarn
Elevation: 14,075 ft / 4290 m
We move camp, which will involve a 5‑hour hike to Halls Tarn. The rest of the day can be spent resting at the tarn, exploring the area, or climbing to the top of one of the many high ridges in the area. All the high points around Hanging Tarn offer fantastic views of the entire area.
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Day 6
Austrian Hut
Today we begin our trek ascending up along the foot of huge rock walls. From the top we will have an excellent view of Mt. Kenya. After ascending for a couple of hours we reach Tooth Col. From here we traverse until we reach the Austrian Hut.
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Day 7
Point Lenana or Point John Ascent
Elevation: 16,356 ft / 4985 m
Depending on conditions and the interests of the group there will be an opportunity to climb the non-technical Point Lenana or the five pitch (up to 5.5) southeast gully of 16,020 foot / 4883 meter Point John. In the evening we prepare for the ascent of Mount Kenya.
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Day 8-9
Summit day of Mt. Kenya — Shipton Route to Nelion
Elevation: 17,057 ft / 5199 m
An early morning departure. We easily cross the Lewis Glacier and climb the Shipton’s Route on Mt. Kenya. Shipton’s route is a technical rock climb with the majority of the climbing 5.4 — 5.6 grade and a few short sections of 5.7−5.8. After taking our summit photos we complete multiple rappels down to camp for the night. We have built in an extra day for the summit attempt. We may consider climbing Batian, which would require a bivi near the summit of Nelion and the need to carry ice axe, crampons, and a sleeping bag.
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Day 10
Extra Day
Extra day built in. Hike out and return to lodge.
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Day 11-12
Nairobi / Fly Home
We drive to Nairobi in the early afternoon for the evening flight home. Participants arrive home on Day 12.
Optional extension: A half hour drive from the Naro Moru River Lodge is the Sweetwater Reserve which is home to the Big 5 wildlife species (elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, and rhino) and a great variety of other wildlife species. There is also a chimpanzee orphanage. A driving safari can be arranged.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Mount Kenya Batian / June - September Climbs
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Day 1-2
Travel
Depart home and fly to Nairobi, Kenya. Arrive in Nairobi late on Day 2. Overnight in Nairobi
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Day 3
Old Moses Camp
Elevation: 10,499 ft / 3200 m
Drive from Nairobi to the Mount Kenya National Park where we begin our trek on the Sirimon route. Our hike from the gate (8,858 feet / 2700 meters) to Old Moses camp starts in lush forests and ends in moorland. About 9 kilometers of walking in 3 – 4 hours.
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Day 4
Shipton’s Camp
Elevation: 13,780 ft / 4200 m
Continue hiking to Shipton’s camp. Today’s trek up Mackinder’s Valley introduces you the diverse plant life found in the upper reaches of the park, in what people often refer to as a Dr. Seuss-like landscape. About 12 kilometers of walking today in 5 – 7 hours.
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Day 5
Shipton’s Camp
Rest day and acclimatization. Hike around the Shipton’s camp area — possible walk to Lower Simba Tarn or to the pass near the impressive peaks of Sendeyo and Terere where the remains of “Icy Mike,” a deceased elephant that has been theorized to have been driven up the mountain by fire in the lowlands can be found. It is Kenya’s equivalent to the leopard on top of Kilimanjaro.
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Day 6
Climb Point John
Elevation: 16,020 ft / 4883 m
Climb the five pitch (up to 5.5) southeast gully of 16,020 foot / 4883 meter Point John. In the evening we return to the Austrian Hut. Alternatively, we may climb several pitches on the North Face Standard and cache equipment for the climb.
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Day 7-8
Summit Day of Mt. Kenya
Depending on the group, we will either make the ascent in one long day or take two days and sleep on the climb, which will allow slower parties to complete the ascent with ample time.
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Day 9
Extra Day
Begin hike out the Chogoria Route. Optional summit day if needed.
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Day 10
Naro Moru River Lodge
We will complete the trek to the trailhead and transfer to the lodge.
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Day 11-12
Nairobi / Fly Home
We drive to Nairobi in the early afternoon for the evening flight home. Participants arrive home on Day 12.
Optional extension: A half hour drive from the Soames Hotel is the Sweetwater Reserve which is home to the Big 5 wildlife species (elephant, buffalo, lion, leopard, and rhino) and a great variety of other wildlife species. There is also a chimpanzee orphanage. A driving safari can be arranged.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, or other reasons beyond our control and in the guide’s best judgement.
Equipment for Mount Kenya
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Carrying Gear
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Summit pack (40-50L)
Lightweight as possible with a volume between 2,500-3,500 cubic inches (40-50 liters) serves most people’s needs well
Examples:
Osprey Mutant 38, Black Diamond Speed 40
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Large duffel bag (150L)
One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small duffel bag
Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip
Examples:
Patagonia Black Hole
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Small padlock for duffel bags
Extra security
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Baggage tags
Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Bivy sack
light weight, waterproof/breathable
Examples:
Outdoor Research Alpine Bivy, OR Helium
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (3)
Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Head and Face
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Fleece or wool hat
It must cover the ears
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Shade hat or baseball cap
A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun
Examples:
Mountain Madness trucker hat
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Bandanas or neck gaiter
Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!
Examples:
Mountain Madness neck gaiter
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Balaclava or Buff
A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research, Marmot
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Glacier glasses
100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case
Examples:
Julbo
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Hands
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Liner gloves
Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic
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Softshell gloves
One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold
Examples:
Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove
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Climbing gloves
A shell system of a fleece liner and waterproof shell that handles cold
Examples:
Outdoor Research Arete
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Feet
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Thin socks (2 pair)
Two pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry
Examples:
Smartwool or Cool Max
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Thick socks (3 pair)
Three pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on
Examples:
Smartwool or Thorlo
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Gaiters
One pair of gaiters made of breathable material; keeps dirt and snow out of boots. Make sure they fit over your boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodiles
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Leather mountaineering boots
Mediumweight and crampon compatible
Examples:
Scarpa Charmoz
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Rock Shoes
comfortable enough for all-day use
Examples:
La Sportiva Mythos, Scarpa Helix
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Undergarments
Adequate supply for the entire trip
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Hiking shorts
One pair of quick-drying shorts. Good for hiking at lower elevations on the mountain
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags
To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)
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Toiletries
Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip
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Toilet paper
1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Ear plugs
To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep
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Water bottles with insulators
Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles
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Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)
For hot beverages on summit day
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Water purification
Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.
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Water flavoring
Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Personal first aid and drug kit
small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin
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Nausea medications
Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly
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Towel
For wash up in camp
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Handi-Wipes
A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene
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Spare contacts and glasses
Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women
It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Personal electronics
Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!
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Electronics charging
If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition
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Travel power adapter
Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Mount Kenya
$7,500
11-12 Days / Includes travel time
Elevation
17,057 ft / 5199 m
Route
Shipton Route or North Face Standard Route depending on season
Client to Guide Ratio
2:1
Difficulty
Advanced Intermediate
Climbers should be comfortable climbing on exposed ridges, 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes and/or 5.6+ rock and have a well-rounded past history of climbing experience. Depending on the objective, climbers may need only snow/ice skills or only rock skills; and vice-versa. Some climbs may require both skill sets.
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