Mount Rainier Ascent
Postcard peak and classic climb of Washington State
Known as Tahoma — “The Big White One” — Mount Rainier is a magnet for climbers of all levels who wish to experience higher altitude mountaineering, train for bigger ascents abroad, or simply stand on the summit of Washington State’s most prominent icon one time in their lives. At 14,410 feet / 4392 meters, Mount Rainier is the highest peak in the Cascade Range and the most heavily glaciated mountain in the “lower forty-eight.” Rainier has it all — big glaciers, big elevation gain, and a big reward!
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Trip Perks
While it is not the highest peak in the world, it certainly stands among the most iconic. This climb is definitely a big check off the ol’ bucket list!
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Description
We climb the Emmons/Winthrop Glacier Route – the second-most popular route up the mountain – a more remote and less crowded route than the Disappointment Cleaver/Ingraham Glacier. Rev. J. Warner Forbes, George James, and Richard Wells made the first ascent in August of 1884. Due to a low start of 4,350 feet / 1326 meters, extra trail mileage, and length of summit climb, our Emmons Glacier Summit climb runs on a 5‑day itinerary. Approaching high camp over two days saves energy, allows time for a skills assessment and/or crevasse rescue refresher; as well gives climbers a chance to savor the approach and spend time on the upper mountain. Having an extra summit day as an option is invaluable for a big mountain like Mt Rainier.
The route starts at the White River Campground on the mountain’s northwest aspect (4,350 ft / 13226 m). We’ll take the Glacier Basin trail to a group campsite at 5,900 feet / 1798 meters and reached in 3 miles / 4.8 kilometers. This is a mellow day and allows time to begin some skills review or just relax a bit. Day 2 we continue up to high camp at Camp Schurman located at the upper apex of Steamboat Prow. We’ll ascend steeply out of Glacier Basin up the Inter Glacier, traverse east, and then drop down onto the broken Emmons Glacier at 8,800 feet / 2682 meters, reaching Camp Sherman at 9,460 feet / 2883 meters. Days 3 or 4 are our summit days. The lower section of the route can be quite broken by big crevasses until the feature, called the “Corridor,” is reached. This relatively unbroken section is between 10,300 feet / 3139 meters and 11,300 feet/3444 meters. Above this section, the route changes year to year and is dictated by crevasses and slope angle. Usually a large Bergschrund 1000 feet / 305 meters or so below the summit area demands some belaying as we cross snow bridges; or the need to traverse around to the west. Columbia Crest, Rainier’s true summit, is located 15 minutes from the crater rim.
Descent is made by retracing the route up. Expect times between 7 – 9 hours up and 4 – 5 down. After the summit climb, we’ll be able to spend one more night at Camp Shurman leaving an entire day for our descent to the trailhead and the drive back to Seattle.
On this climb we cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots and harnesses
- Crampon use and snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self-arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills.
- Discussions will include proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics
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Price
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Mount Rainier
$2,850 – 5 Days / Includes Transportation, Tents and Food
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Price Includes (Complete List)
- Guide services
- Ground transportation
- All meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- Group climbing equipment
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Price Does Not Include
- Airfare
- Transportation within Seattle
- $50 climber’s fee
- Park entrance fee
- Hotel accommodations
- Restaurant meals
- All personal equipment
- Travel insurance with trip cancellation, medical and evacuation policy
- Guide gratuities
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Payment Schedule
- $700 deposit at time of registration, which includes a $300 non-refundable registration fee. This trip fills fast, so your deposit will not be charged until we confirm availability.
- Balance due 120 days prior to departure
- The balance may be paid by check, wire transfer, ACH or credit card with a 3% convenience fee
Dates
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Mount Rainier 2024
- Jul 7, 2024 — Jul 11, 2024
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Mount Rainier 2025
- Jul 6, 2025 — Jul 10, 2025
Policies
Cancellation / Refund Policy
- MMI strongly recommends trip cancellation/interruption and evacuation insurance for all trips. Our insurance partner, Ripcord, offers comprehensive travel insurance including trip cancellation, as well as rescue/evacuation policies and can assist in answering any questions. In addition, Participant is expected to have sufficient medical insurance as prescribed by their country of origin. Participant understands that MMI does not include any type of insurance with the cost of the trip.
- If you decide to cancel your trip or change your itinerary, MMI must be notified in writing. Your trip will be cancelled from the date written notice is received. If proper written cancellation notice is not received, amounts paid and reservations made will be forfeited.
- Non-refundable fees may apply for certain trips in order to secure permits and other services. MMI must strictly adhere to cancellation policies outside MMI’s control.
- Due to the personalized service we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations, waiving certain fees when feasible.
- Circumstances outside the control of MMI and its partners, may require amended cancellation/refund policies. Such circumstances may include, but are not limited to COVID-19, natural disasters, wildfires, terrorism and so forth.
Rainier:
- Full refund, less the non-refundable registration fee, will be provided 121 days or more before the departure date
- No refunds will be provided 120 days or less before the departure date
Trip Insurance
We strongly recommend the purchase of travel cancellation insurance to protect you from the unexpected. You aren’t likely to think of it now, but people do get ill, break a bone, have a family emergency or get assigned to a last-minute business trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emergency rescue & evacuation can be very expensive.
We also strongly urge you to consider rescue and evacuation insurance if your own policy does not provide the coverage needed. Services available may include, but are not limited to, helicopter evacuation, medical care, etc.
If you choose not to purchase insurance, you assume full responsibility for any expenses incurred in the event of a medical emergency and/or evacuation, as well as for trip cancellation, interruption, lost luggage, etc. We are not the experts and therefore ask that you please consult our travel insurance partner directly with any specific questions.
To protect against losses due to illness, accident, or other unforeseen circumstances, Mountain Madness strongly recommends the purchase of travel insurance as soon as possible after making a deposit. Mountain Madness has partnered with Redpoint Resolutions as our preferred travel insurance provider. Redpoint’s Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ is designed for adventurers.
For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pricing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and level of coverage.
Critical benefits of Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance include:
- A completely integrated program with a single point of contact for emergency services, travel assistance, and insurance claims
- Evacuation and rescue services from your point of injury or illness to your hospital of choice
- Comprehensive travel insurance for trip cancellation/interruption, primary medical expense coverage, baggage loss or delay, emergency accident and emergency sickness medical expense, emergency dental, accidental death and dismemberment, and more
- Optional security evacuation coverage in case of an unplanned natural disaster or other security events
- Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
- Optional “Cancel for Any Reason” coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of tour deposit)
Itinerary
Flight Information
For scheduled courses and climbs, you should fly into Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SeaTac). You are responsible for your transportation to downtown Seattle. You will meet as a group with your guide(s) early morning on Day 1 for an orientation meeting and equipment check.
Mount Rainier Day by Day
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Day 1
We meet at 7 am for a mandatory orientation meeting and equipment check. The drive from Seattle to the trailhead at White River Campground (4,350 ft / 1326 m) is approximately 3 hours. After finalizing our permitting with Mt. Rainier National Park and securing your annual climbing passes ($30/pp), we’ll hit the trail — this is a mellow 3 mile / 4.8 kilometer hike and the shorter day allows time to begin some skills review or just relax a bit. We’ll camp at the Glacier Basin group site at 5,900 feet / 17998 meters.
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Day 2
Today we’ll hike out of Glacier Basin and have an opportunity to continue with any skills review and assessment on the slopes above camp. We’ll then ascend steeply out of Glacier Basin up the Inter Glacier, traverse east, and then drop down onto the broken Emmons Glacier at 8,800 feet / 2682 meters, reaching Camp Schurman at 9,460 feet / 2883 meters at the upper apex of Steamboat Prow. This is all rope-team travel once on the Inter and Emmons Glaciers. A permanent NPS ranger hut is located at Schurman providing the latest on route and travel conditions.
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Day 3-5
These are our summit days. Expect a departure between 2 and 3 am The lower section of the route can be quite broken by big crevasses until the feature call the “Corridor” is reached. This relatively unbroken section is between 10,300 feet / 3139 meters and 11,300 feet / 3444 meters. Above this point, the route changes year to year and is dictated by crevasses and slope angle. Usually a large Bergschrund 1,000 feet / 305 meters or so below the summit area demands some belaying as we cross snow bridges; or it requires a route change traversing around to the west. Columbia Crest, Rainier’s true summit, is located 15 minutes from the crater rim. Descent is made by retracing the route up. Expect times between 7 – 9 hours up and 4 – 5 down. After the summit climb, we’ll be able to spend one more night at Camp Schurman, leaving an entire day for our descent to the trailhead and drive back to Seattle.
Note on Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
Equipment for Mount Rainier Ascent
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Carrying Gear
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Large capacity climbing pack (65-75L)
approximately 4000-4500 cubic inch (65-75 liters) capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Examples:
Black Diamond Mission 75, Osprey Ariel 65
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Sleeping Gear
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Expedition quality sleeping bag (15-20F)
One down or synthetic bag rated from 15-20°F /-9 to -7°C
Examples:
Marmot Helium, Marmot Trestles, Western Mountaineering Apache, North Face Guide 20
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Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)
A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.
Examples:
Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol
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Climbing Gear
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Alpine climbing harness
Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
Examples:
Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos
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Locking carabiners (2)
Two large, pear-shaped carabiners are best
Examples:
Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache
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Non-locking carabiners (2)
2 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond HotWire
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Crampons w/ anti-balling plate
Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type
Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak
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Mountaineering ice axe
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
Examples:
Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier
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Climbing helmet
Lightweight
Examples:
Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios
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4' of perlon accessory cord
4' of perlon accessory cord for prussik materials (6mm diameter)
Examples:
Sterling
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Adjustable trekking poles
Three piece poles recommended
Examples:
Black Diamond Trail Back Pole
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Belay device (plaquette)
Tube style
Examples:
Black Diamond ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso
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Hands
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Light weight work gloves
lightweight gloves with leather palm for rope work
Examples:
Black Diamond Transition Glove
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Mid-weight gloves
1-2 pairs
Examples:
Black Diamond Punisher Glove
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Heavyweight shell glove
Gore-tex or equivalent (trips before July)
Examples:
Black Diamond Enforcer Glove
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Expedition mitts
One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures
Examples:
Outdoor Research Altimitt
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Feet
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Liner socks (optional)
1-pair lightweight and thin
Examples:
polypropylene or wool
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Syntheric or wool socks
check boot fir to make sure they work together
Examples:
Smartwool ,Patagonia
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Gaiters (optional)
Check fit with boots
Examples:
Outdoor Research Verglas or Crocodile
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Insulated mountaineering boots (NW)
waterproof, insulated, crampon compatible, full shank boots. Many of these boots have Women specific equivalents (May –late June and Ice Climbs)
Examples:
Scarpa Mt Blanc, Scarpa Phantom Tech, La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX, Salewa Vulture Vertical GTX
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Light trail shoes, camp booties, or sandals (optional)
Trail shoes for when at campgrounds and booties/sandals/Crocs for basecamps when weather and season allow
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Upper Body
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Synthetic t-shirts
Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!
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Sports bras
Two, synthetic, no cotton!
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Long-sleeved Base Layer
Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Light weight synthetic jacket
light weight synthetic puffy or fleece
Examples:
Patagonia Nano Puff jacket
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Softshell Jacket w/ hood
This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip
Examples:
Outdoor Research Ferrosi
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Hardshell jacket w/ hood
A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
Examples:
Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet
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Down or synthetic jacket w/hood
This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.
Examples:
Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody
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Sun hoody
This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun
Examples:
Outdoor Research
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Lower Body
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Long base layer
Two pairs light or mediumweight
Examples:
Patagonia Capilene
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Softshell pants
Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day
Examples:
Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide
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Hardshell pants
waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent
Examples:
Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR
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Miscellaneous
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Bear Bag/Bear Canister
Bear bag or bear canister to protect your food from both bears and smaller critters
Examples:
Ursack AllMitey, BearVault,
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Personal first aid kit (NW)
moleskin/blister kit, Band-aids, athletic tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, ect
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Sunscreen
Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!
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Lip balm
Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!
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Hand sanitizer
enough to last trip length
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Insect repellent
A must!
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Headlamp
Bring extra batteries!
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Water bottles
two 1 liter wide-mouth water bottles
Examples:
Nalgene
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Large plastic bowl
Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining
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Hydration bladder (optional)
hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)
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Water purification (NW)
Purifies drinking water while on the climb
Examples:
Steri Pen, water filter, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine
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Insulated cup (12-16oz)
A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated
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Lexan spoon or spork
Lightweight and strong
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Pocket knife or multitool
Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!
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Toiletry kit (NW)
toilet paper stored in double zip lock bags
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Large plastic bags
heavy duty trash compactor bags recommended
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Nylon stuff sacks
for food and gear storage, large ziplocs are useful
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Bandana (optional)
lightweight
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Snacks (general)
Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing
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Camera (optional)
or any sort of device that takes pictures
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Soap, shampoo, towel (optional)
for use at campground showers when on itinerary
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Travel clothing
Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition
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Book Trip
Mount Rainier
$2,850
5 Days / Includes Transportation, Tents and Food
Elevation
14,410 ft / 4392 m
Route
Emmons/Winthrop Glacier Route
Client to guide ratio
4:2
Difficulty
Intermediate
Depending on the objective, climbers should be comfortable on steeper snow/ice slopes and/or 5.5-5.7 rock climbing experience. You should have a past climbing experience with proven skills. Certain climbs may require only snow/ice skills, but not require rock skills; and vice-versa.
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