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Please call to confirm availability status before submitting applications!
2009 Climb Dates:
(approx 23 days)
April 25 - May 19 (Early Season Trip)
May 2 - 26
May 9 - June 2
May 23 - June 23
May 30 - June 23
June 6 - 30 (One space left!)
June 20 - July 14
June 27 - July 21 (Late Season Trip)
Land Cost: $5,500
Early and Late Season Cost: $5,200
* All trips do not include park fees, as of 2008 park fees are approx. $200 per person
Climbing Grade
Intermediate
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For those of you who cannot make it to Denali this year, may we suggest the followign trips to fill your high altitude appetite. Please feel free to call in and inquire about the following expeditions;
Cho Oyu Expedition Bolivia Mountaineering Mustagh Ata
Denali is North America’s highest and most impressive mountain. From the town of Talkeetna, Alaska, we fly to the Kahiltna Glacier where we prepare for our ascent. The classic West Buttress route on Denali requires only intermediate technical climbing skills, but perseverance, intense physical exertion, teamwork and patient acclimatization are all necessary for this climb. This unforgettable climb has long been regarded as a great expedition challenge, comparable to the Himalayan giants. Given the rigours of this expedition we suggest particpants have previous training and high altitude expedition experience. For those with little or no experience we suggest as an example the following progression;
Expedition Training in the North Cascades
Ecuador Volcanoes Expedition
Aconcagua
| Mountain Madness provides these services as a booking agent for an authorized concessionaire of Denali National Park.
General Information on Denali
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INCLUDED IN COST:
- Guide services
- Meals while on the mountain
- Tents
- All group camping gear
- All group cooking gear
- Ground transportation to Talkeetna
- Air-transportation from Talkeetna to the mountain
NOT INCLUDED IN COST:
- Airfare to Anchorage
- Accommodations in Anchorage
- Accommodations in Talkeetna
- Your personal camping and climbing equipment (excluding tents and team cooking gear)
- Meals while staying in towns
- All personal items
- $200 National Park Service permit fee
- Gratuities for staff and guides.
A detailed equipment list will be made available upon registration.
AIRLINE TRANSPORTATION
Denali climbs may take from 17 – 26 days. Do not book your return flight too early. We recommend you allow at least 23 days. You need to be at the Day 1 Team Meeting and Equipment check at noon. We strongly recommend that you arrive a day early, especially if you can not arrive in Anchorage early in the morning on Day 1.
QUALIFICATIONS
Prerequisites for this climb include advanced snow and ice climbing ability, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills, cold weather camping skills, and previous experience at altitude above 10,000 feet. We recommend that you have completed, at minimum, one of our 6 day mountaineering course and/or a winter mountaineering course. Excellent general strength and cardiovascular fitness is mandatory. Begin your training regime immediately.
PRE-TRIP CONDITIONING
We suggest that you begin your training program at least 4 months prior to departure. Being physically ready is more important than years of climbing experience. You must be serious about your training! Besides aerobic training, such as running and cycling, you need to do strength training with a pack. This is the most valuable thing you can do to prepare yourself. The best method is to go on long hikes or climbs with a heavy pack once or twice a week. Begin with a light pack and work your way up to approx. 50% of your body weight (55 – 80 lb.) You will need to be able to carry a heavy pack from Day 1 because you can not get in shape on the climb. If you are not prepared, you may not be allowed to continue the climb.
CLIMBING KNOWLEDGE
Before you arrive you will need to know the following knots: Follow-through Figure 8 (end-person tie-in), Butterfly (middle person tie-in), Clove Hitch (secure to an anchor), Munter Hitch (for belaying). You should know how to belay with either a body belay or Munter Hitch. You should also be familiar with Ice Axe arrest and crampon skills, the use of ascenders, and how to use your particular harness.
MENTAL PREPARATION
Besides being physically fit and having climbing skills, you need to have the proper attitude and mental discipline. You will need to be willing to work hard day after day, with few comforts. You may need to dig deep into your reserves after a long day of climbing in bad weather to help set up camp, help a team member, or help with cooking. This climb is as much about mental ability as it is about physical ability. Summit day is usually the most demanding day but high motivation can overcome some of the difficulties. Waiting out storms is especially difficult, especially at high altitude. Everyone must learn patience and relax! Denali climbs require a group effort.
WEATHER
Denali generates and attracts its own weather making it impossible to predict. Be prepared for a wide range of weather conditions from -40&Mac176;F nights to hurricane force winds to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it especially important to bring everything on the equipment list.
LODGING
We recommend that you stay at The Inlet Bed & Breakfast at 1326 West 1st Ave, Anchorage, 99501, ph# 907 276 3009. Please make a reservation ahead of time.
TEAM MEETING
Guides and team members will meet for a briefing and equipment check at the Inlet Bed & Breakfast at noon on day 1 of your climb. It is essential that you be at this meeting. You may need to arrive in Anchorage a day early, so plan your airline flights carefully. You will need to bring all of your equipment to this meeting.
FOOD
The meals on the mountain consist of pastas, dehydrated and fresh foods. Be sure to bring along your favorite munchies. Trip members will become comfortable with expedition cooking by helping to prepare and clean-up meals.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE
We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses, and emergency assistance. An insurance application will be provided upon request.
GENERAL INFORMATION
This trip is subject to the booking information in the Mountain Madness Application forms. We urge you to read this information carefully and to call us if you have any questions.
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Itinerary for Denali
DAY 1: ARRIVE IN ANCHORAGE.
Team meeting at noon for Expedition Orientation and Equipment check. This is the scheduled date. Meals and lodging on your own. You must be at this meeting! Be sure to arrive in Anchorage early enough to make the meeting. You may need to arrive a day early.
DAY 2: TRAVEL TO TALKEETNA.
We will drive several hours to Talkeetna. If weather permits, we will fly into the Kahiltna Glacier with Doug Geeting Air Taxi. There will be a Glacier Expedition Orientation that will cover the following topics: Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, Sled Rigging, Rope Management and Camp Site Procedures. Establish Base Camp at 7,000 feet. If you do not fly in off the mountain, meals will be on your own. We will camp in Talkeetna if necessary.
DAY 3: CARRY SUPPLIES TO CAMP 1 (7,770 FEET).
Just south of the junction to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Moderate carry of about 9 miles round-trip. You will return to Base Camp. Throughout the expedition you will follow the "climb high, sleep low" technique, for better acclimatization. On the late May and June Expeditions, you may be doing your climbing at night to avoid the excessive heat and soft snow conditions.
DAY 4: MOVE REMAINING SUPPLIES AND ESTABLISH CAMP 1.
DAY 5: HAUL LOADS UP TO THE SITE OF CAMP 2, near Kahiltna Pass .
Several options exist for camp sites between 9,000 & 11,000 feet, depending upon weather, snow conditions and team strength. This is a moderately difficult carry. 7-9 miles round-trip, with 2-3,000 feet of elevation gain. Return to Camp 1. You will feel that you are climbing a mountain! If you trained right, you will feel good!
DAY 6: MOVE EVERYTHING TO CAMP 2 NEAR KAHILTNA PASS.
DAY 7: HAUL LOADS TO JUST BELOW WINDY CORNER (13,300 FEET).
Steep snow climbing up Motorcycle Hill, with spectacular views as your reward! 4+ miles round-trip. Sleds are getting lighter, air is getting thinner, and views are awesome!
DAY 8: MOVE CAMP TO EITHER 12,500 OR ALL THE WAY TO 14,300 FEET.
This is usually a long, hard day. Weather and team strength will determine the placement of Camp 3. You will use crampons and ice axe climbing around Windy Corner. The route above 14,000 feet will come into view.
DAY 9: MELLOW DAY.
You will either move camp from 12,500 ' to 14,300' or you will descend from 14,300' to the Windy Corner Cache and bring everything up to 14,300 feet.
DAY 10: REST DAY
If food is still at Windy Corner, go down and get it. It is important to acclimatize at this elevation by being active. Three nights is minimum at Camp 3, more is ideal.
DAY 11 : CLIMB UP THE HEADWALL TO 16,100,
and if possible continue on the West Buttress to 17,200 feet. Cache supplies and return to 14,300 feet. Climbing up the Headwall (fixed line is from 15,500 to 16,100 feet) with a heavy pack, is one of the most strenuous days of the trip, because of the steepness, heavy pack and lack of oxygen. This is high altitude climbing!
DAY 12: MOVE CAMP TO EITHER 16,100 or 17,200 feet. Weather and team strength will again determine this decision. The 16,100' camp site is very exposed but spectacular, while the 17,200 ' site is more secure and the best choice.
DAY 13: RETURN TO CACHE AT 16,1OO' or MOVE CAMP TO 17,200'
Possible moderate day, if weather is good. The Ridge between 16,100' and 17,200' (West Buttress) is very spectacular and beautiful.
SUMMIT DAY: Be patient!
You will only try for the Summit when the weather is good: mostly clear and calm! Count on eight to twelve hours or more for the round- trip climb. You probably will not feel normal up at 20,320 feet! Being short of breath and just a general uck feeling is normal for high altitude climbing. This is supposed to be fun ? Usually you will depart camp early (7-9 a.m.), climb up to Denali Pass (18,000') and follow the mellow route past Arch Deacon's Tower and the Football Field to the slopes leading to the Summit Ridge. On this ridge you can usually see down into the Ruth Glacier and view peaks like the Moose's Tooth, Mt Huntington and more. If the weather is good, you will always remember this view!!!
DESCENT: The descent will take one or two days.
Usually you descend to 14,300', 11,000' or lower. And then on to base camp. If it is not too late in the day, you will fly out to Talkeetna soon after you arrive in base camp. Food and showers in Talketna!!!!
Day 18-22:
There are numerous days built in at the end of the trip to account for any bad weather days and/or a second summit attempt. These additional days on the expedition are intended to account for the likelihood of bad weather at any point in the climb. For example, if we have a bad weather day which prevents our flight from leaving Talkeetna or a storm hits us at the 14,200 foot base camp, we will still have ample time for a proper acclimatization and a successful summit.
Day 23: Arrive home.
NOTE ON ITINERARY :
Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control. The biggest factor that will determine our progress on the mountain, especially in establishing Camp V and our summit attempt(s), will be the weather. Denali weather is notorious for unforgiving and unpredictable conditions.
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