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 With a combination of excellent climbing and the unique, exotic culture of the Dani people, Carstensz Pyramid Climb is truly one of our most fascinating adventures in one of the wildest remaining places on the planet. Located at latitude 4 degrees and 5 minutes south by 137 degrees and 11 minutes east longitude in the western central highlands of New Guinea, the second largest island after Greenland, 16,023 foot Carstensz Pyramid is the highest peak on the Oceania continent and one of the seven summits.
We access basecamp via either helicopter or legal access on foot. From the magical base camp that is surrounded by alpine lakes we have easy access to the peak. Our climb of Carstensz Pyramid consists of moderate rock climbing over mostly solid, white limestone and is completed in one long day from our basecamp in the Valley of Lakes. The climb is never extremely difficult but has several technical sections that require both the familiarity of mechanical ascenders and being comfortable on steep, exposed terrain. On our way to the summit we will encounter several rappels and ascend short sections of near vertical rock. The climbing along the summit ridge is a distinct pleasure with high exposure and interesting climbing on easy to moderate fifth class rock.
From the summit we will have incredible views of Ngga Pulu and its rapidly retreating glaciers, the brilliant white limestone towers of the Sudirman Mountains, the turquoise lakes of the Meren Valley and on a clear day all the way to the coast of New Guinea.
Included in cost:
• Scheduled hotel accommodations in Dempassar, based on double occupancy
• Carstensz Pyramid permit and environmental fees
• Round trip domestic airfare to Papua and flights within Papua (helicopter and plane as needed)
• Airport transfers and all scheduled land transport in Indonesia
• Indonesian government royalty fees
• All scheduled restaurant meals Dempassar to Dempassar
• Mountain food during the trek and climb
• Group gear at base camp and on the climb.
• Mountain Madness guides and staff, including porters.
Not included in cost:
• Trip cancellation insurance (Required for this trip)
• International airfare to Indonesia
• Indonesia Entry Visa
• Unscheduled hotel nights
• Medical/ evacuation and trip insurance
• Personal equipment
• Alcoholic beverages
• Excess baggage on domestic flights (20 kg limit)
• Staff/guide gratuities
• Unforeseen changes in logistical arrangements beyond the control of Mountain Madness
• Costs associated with an early departure |
General Information on Carstensz
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QUALIFICATIONS: For the Carstensz we require that you are proficient at scrambling quickly on moderately difficult terrain, with leather mountaineering boots on, for a full day. This means very good balance and confidence in your feet, agility, and the efficient use of your body and energy. High angle rock climbing is good training for the ascent, but this climb is more about endurance and being able to move fast on easy to moderate terrain. You need to use your upper body less and your legs and balance more. Doing several long and exposed rock scrambles on 4th class terrain, or mixed 4th class and easy 5th class is ideal. Strive for increasingly faster times and longer routes. The west ridge of Forbidden and our Alpine rock Seminar in the North Cascades or the El Diente Traverse in Colorado are suggested trips. We also suggest familiarity with rappelling and the use of mechanical ascenders- call our office for more details. For those with limited experience a one-three day rock course will provide the necessary skills.
RECOMMENDED READING:
Sacred Summits, by Peter Boardman. Account of early ascent of the mountain and other interesting stories of climbs from around the world
Climbing Magazine: Issue #171, “Behind the Indonesian Veil,” by Mark Bowen. Informative account of authors climb of Carstensz. Also gives a not so pleasant glimpse into the political strife facing the people of Irian Jaya.
I Come From The Stone Age, by Heinrich Harrer. Difficult to find, but worthwhile read of the author of Seven Year’s in Tibet first ascent of Carstensz Pyramid in 1962.
Under the Mountain Wall, by Peter Matheisson. A poignant portrait of the Dani people based on first hand experience from the 1961 Peabody Expedition
The Lost Tribe, by Edward Marriott. Chronicles authors adventure to reach the lost Liawep tribe in 1993 in Papua New Guinea.
National Geographic- Feb. 1996, vol.189, #2. “Irian Jaya,” by Thomas O’neil
Throwim Way Leg, by Tim Flannery. Story about renowned mammologists search for unknown species in New Guinea.
Seven Summits- the quest to reach the highest point on every continent. Edited by Steve Bell. 2000
TRAINING PROGRAM: This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.
WEATHER: Be prepared for a wide range of temperatures; from freezing nights, to adverse snow and wind conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperature makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.
FOOD: Mountain Madness provides all of the food while climbing and on the trek, but bring along your favorite munchies.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We REQUIRE the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for: trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.
MEDICAL AND EVACUATION INSURANCE: If your insurance policy does not cover international travel and mountaineering expeditions you will receive insurance information in your departure booklet after we receive your application.
GENERAL INFORMATION: This trip is subject to the booking information on the Mountain Madness Trip Application. We urge you to read this information carefully and to call us if you have any questions.
QUESTIONS: Call our office anytime at 1-800-328-5925 or visit our website for more general information about our Carstensz Pyramid climb.
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Itinerary for Carstensz
Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. Meals provided are listed as b, l and d at the end of each day. You will be responsible for those meals not listed while in towns and cities. All meals in the mountains will be provided. Porters will be provided on those days listed in the itinerary.
Day 1-3: Travel to Dempassar, Bali. Mountain Madness staff will meet you at the airport. You will transfer to your hotel. d
Day 4-5: We wrap-up last minute paperwork and secure our permit with the Indonesia government. You will have the opportunity to explore the ocean front city of Dempassar. We connect for our flight to West Papua and transfer to our hotel. b, d
Day 6-7: Final preparations. b, l, d
 Day 8-15: We allow for time to acclimatize and review skills. Then we're off to the summit! The route is relatively straightforward and follows a line up the north face. After scrambling approximately 500 meters over mostly solid rock we will break out on the summit ridge where lines will be fixed in preparation for our descent. Our route here follows the ridge crest with grand exposure along the way. We pass four small notches as we rappel and use ascenders to negotiate these tricky sections. Our descent entails multiple rappels and scrambling. We will be on good, clean rock that provides excellent friction even in wet weather. This will be a long, difficult day of 12-18 hours roundtrip. b, l, d
Day 16-17: Return back home.
NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary IS subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.
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Climb Equipment List for Carstensz
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Mountain Madness believes that all mountain travel equipment should follow two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Lightweight equipment increases your chance of success and helps make you more comfortable. Functional equipment determines how warm, dry, and safe you will be, so always choose equipment that is of good quality, is dependable, and is adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions.
Clothing impacts not only your comfort but also your safety. Always be critical of the quality and the proper fit of your clothing. Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin.
Our recommended clothing system has four layers.
• Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (Polypro, capilene, driclime)
• Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well. The main Softshell fabrics are Polartec Wind Pro, Gore Windstopper N2S, Schoeller and each clothing manufacturer has their own. 200 weight fleece can be substituted for our Soft Shell recommendations but is not as versatile on how it may be used when layering.
• Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable. (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
• Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)
These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.
Mountain Madness guides swear by Patagonia clothing and we know you will, too. Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Another company that we recommend is Outdoor Research (OR). Born in the Northwest, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia and OR.
For used, new or rental equipment try these two retailers. Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810, http://www.secondascent.com. We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle which also rents gear, and will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit http://www.featheredfriends.com
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 4 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking
__ 4 Regular carabiners
__Belay / Rappel device
__ 1 Pair mechanical Ascenders (left and right hand) with handles
__Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ Adjustable trekking poles
__ Slings: 1 shoulder length and one double length
__1 Pair rappel gloves
Upper Body
__ Long sleeve shirt light colored shirt for sun and mosquito protection
__ Long sleeve polypropylene shirt light weight, light colored shirt for sun
__ Expedition weight long underwear shirt or medium weight fleece shirt
__ Soft Shell or fleece jacket
__ Down/synthetic Parka Medium weight insulated
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ Parka medium weight down or synthetic insulated
__ 1 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 Pair medium weight gloves fleece or wool
__ 1 Pair mittens fleece or wool
__ Shell gloves Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (OR has a great selection)
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic
__ Balaclava
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)
__ Extra pair of sunglasses in case your first pair break
Sleeping Gear
__ Sleeping bag Rated to at least 10-20º F. Line the stuff sack w/plastic bag
__ Sleeping pad Full length closed cell foam or Crazy Creek Chair
__ Therma-Rest (bring repair kit) for extra warmth and comfort
Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 4000 to 5000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
? Day pack 1800-3000 cubic inch (e.g. Lowe Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 30) for approach hike and summit day (optional)
__ 2 Large duffel bags
Lower Body
__ 2-3 Pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2 Pair wool/synthetic socks Medium weight
__ 1-2 Pair light-medium weight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 Pair soft shell pants (e.g. Mammut Champ pants, Patagonia Guide pants or Outdoor Research Granite pants) Schoeller fabrics
__ 1-2 Pair nylon shorts quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ Lightweight pants for hiking (not cotton!)
__ Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (e.g. OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ Sandals or light hiking shoes for use at camp.
Miscellaneous Equipment
__Personal first aid kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc. Check out OR
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Insect repellant Small bottle
__ Headlamp (e.g. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini) Bring spare batteries
__ 2-3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Mug Plastic w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ Towel & soap
__ Large plastic bags 6-7, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, waterproof optional (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandanas One or two
__ Snacks and/or munchies Bring your favorite “trail foods” or desserts, pack in Ziplocs. Avoid bringing more than you will need
__ Camera Optional; large SLR types are not recommended
__ Small padlocks for duffel bags
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman etc.
__ Repair kit (needle, thread, cord, safety pins, ripstop tape, et.)
__ Small stainless thermos (optional)
__ Backpack cover
__ Umbrella
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