The Aconcagua Polish Traverse route offers an incredible high altitude climb of moderate difficulty for the mountaineer with previous climbing skills. Not to be confused with the Polish Glacier route, which is a serious high altitude climb suitable for very experienced climbers only, the Traverse travels below the glacier and involves climbing similar to the normal route- it does not however involve any glacier travel.

What our groups find on the Traverse route is more solitude and an aesthetic route that ascends the eastern aspect of the mountain before completing the circumnavigation. After reaching the summit climbers will descend into the Horcones Valley and hike out, thus completing the circumnavigation.

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Summit day images

WHY GO WITH MOUNTAIN MADNESS ACONCAGUA?
• More than 15 years experience on the mountain.
• Low client to guide ratio.
• Excellent base camp service.
• Veteran guides with extensive high altitude experience, from Aconcagua to Mount Everest.       
• Proven acclimatization program.
• Porter support.
• Knowledgeable office staff with climbing experience on Aconcagua.
• Best available equipment, including North Face tents, pulse oximeters, radios.
• Multiple days built in for summit attempts.

QUALIFICATIONS FOR CLIMBING THE POLISH TRAVERSE:

The Polish Traverse is more of an undertaking than the Normal Route. We do suggest that you have previous mountaineering experience prior to joining us for the Polish Traverse route on Aconcagua. While not technically more difficult than the Normal Route, the Traverse itinerary with Mountain Madness involves a "carry over" with all of your gear making the trip more strenuous. Conditions on Aconcagua change constantly. Often climbers are required to use crampons and ice axes while on the Traverse and when crossing the Gran Accerro and climbing in the Canaleta. Porter support for the Traverse route is more difficult to arrange and therefore participants will be expected to carry their personal belongings and a share of group provisions (50-60 pounds total for each carry). However, with advance planning, we can arrange porters for you and your group.

If you are not familiar with the proper use of ice axe and crampons prior to your trip to Aconcagua, but have been to high altitude to, for example, Kilimanjaro, we suggest the Glacier Mountaineering Course as an excellent way to prepare for this trip. These courses are held throughout the summer in Washington State. For those without experience at high altitudes or training it is strongly advised that you join us on our Mountaineering Courses in Bolivia or Ecuador where you can learn the skills needed for expedition climbing while in a high mountain setting. And for those with the necessary skills but are lacking experience at higher altitudes, expeditions in Peru, Bolivia, or Ecuador offer great opportunities to test yourself at greater elevations.

Land Costs Include:
• Scheduled hotel accommodations, based on double or triple occupancy
• Ground transportation, including transfers from Mendoza airport to hotel
• All meals while on the mountain
• All group climbing and cooking gear
• All scheduled restaurant meals while in Argentina (marked B,L,D)
• Peak permit
• Mules for transport of gear and food to base camp and return

Land Costs Do Not Include:
• Airfare
• Personal climbing gear and other equipment and clothing
• All items of a personal nature;phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
• Medical/Evacuation and Trip Insurance
• Porters
• Staff/Guide gratuities
• Airport transfer for return flight home

Route: Aconcagua, often referred to as the "Stone Sentinel," is the highest peak in South America and the highest peak in the world outside of Asia. Climbing this beautiful mountain, which rises 4,000 feet above neighboring peaks, is a great way to experience the spectacular Andes of Argentina. All of our equipment is carried to base camp by mules. We follow the philosophy of climb high and sleep low as we establish a series of higher camps while ascending Aconcagua. We have also built in numerous inclement weather days to the schedule to allow more time to attempt the summit climb. These factors enable proper acclimatization and greatly increases our chance for success.

The Polish Traverse, which is often referred to as the False Polish Glacier Route, is a beautiful high altitude climb. After our ascent we have the option to descend into the Horcones Valley and return to our starting point at the small town of Puenta del Inca by a different route, thus completing a circumnavigation of the mountain. With the opportunity to see all aspects of the mountain and reach the highest point in the Western Hemisphere, this surely ranks among our most rewarding expeditions. This trip offers participants the chance to test their endurance at high altitude without the complexities of glacier travel, but still in a full-blown expedition context. And for those desiring to climb on Himalayan expeditions to the 8,000-meter giants this climb provides excellent training and experience at higher altitudes.
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TRAINING SUGGESTIONS: Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 50-60lbs. while stocking camps on the mountain. We suggest you begin your training program at least three months prior to departure. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack.

The best training for mountaineering is to carry a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills, stairs, or small mountains. To avoid knee stress while training use full water containers for weight and empty out the water prior to your descent. Supplement this with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus - remember your summit day could be as long, or longer than, 12 hours at high altitude!

Please call Mountain Madness to discuss your training program to help you prepare for your climb of Aconcagua, or if you have any other questions; 1-800-328-5925.

SUMMIT DAY: From our high camp the Traverse route joins the Northwest ridge just below the highest refuge in the world, 21,476 foot Refugia Independencia. From these ruins we continue climbing to the Cresta del Viento (Windy Crest). Once here we join the upper part of the Gran Acarreo and traverse to the Canaleta, the most famous and challenging part of the Normal Route. The Canaleta is a 30-degree scree gully that rises 1,300 feet and requires great patience and stamina.

After topping out of the Canaleta, you will find yourself atop the Cresta del Guanaco, the ridge that joins the lower South Summit to the higher North Summit. We follow the ridge crest to the 22,841-foot true summit, where aluminum cross marks the highest point in the Western Hemisphere! The 360-degree view from the summit is awe-inspiring as you gaze out towards the numerous 20,000-foot peaks of the Andes. Summitting and returning back down to our high camp usually takes between 9-12 hours.

Day 18: We begin the descent back down to the land of oxygen rich air! We now descend to our new basecamp at the Plaza de Mulas (13,780 feet) to relax.

Day 19: Hike down the Horcones valley to Puente del Inca. Overnight in hotel. D

Day 20-21: Afternoon of day 20 we travel to Mendoza for the night flight home.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.

Aconcagua Equipment List - Polish Traverse

A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in Mendoza and all your mountain gear. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this climb and is the minimum required for this trip. You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.

The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Since you will be carrying all of your gear and a portion of the group gear, the items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!

The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.

Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.

Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to various equipment retailers.

Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent , a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. We stop at their store on our way out of Seattle on all Northwest trips. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.

We also work closely with Feathered Friends , a retailer in Seattle. They will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip and can provide you with excellent down products for your Aconcagua climb. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210.

For a complete equipment list, please contact our office at 800-328-5925.

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