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GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING COURSE

Set in a spectacular environment that provides abundant learning opportunities, this comprehensive course is truly rewarding. It is designed for individuals aspiring to learn the fundamental skills of snow, ice, glacier, and rock climbing techniques, and includes the application of skills learned toward the ascent of major glaciated mountains. The majority of the time you will spend in the North Cascades where active glaciers, volcanic peaks, and breathtaking views create the ideal learning environment. A summit attempt at the end of the course gives you the chance to put your newly developed skills to the test. Our final day is reserved as a backup summit day or as a chance to learn basic rock climbing techniques at the scenic Mt. Erie located near the San Juan Islands. Our goal is to develop safe, self-reliant alpine climbers ready to climb locally or in the greater ranges of the world. This course is truly an excellent foundation for any climber seeking independence in the alpine arena.

No previous climbing experience necessary.

Client to Guide Ratio: 5:1
Climbing Grade: Beginner

2005 Dates (6 days):
TBA
Cost: $995

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

Course curriculum includes:
  • Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and navigation
  • Team and individual crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios
  • Low angle to steep snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
  • Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
  • Intro to ice climbing and crampon techniques
  • Team and individual self arrest techniques
  • Belaying, rappelling, and rope management
  • Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
  • Basic rock climbing techniques, commands, and equipment use
  • Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
  • Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
  • Hazard assessment including: discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
  • Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics

    COURSE ITINERARY
    Day 1:
    6:30 a.m. orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check, we drive from Seattle to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. This hike is very strenuous and can take 4 - 6 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) You’ll hike through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en-route to our base camp. After establishing camp, the remainder of the day will focus on the skills necessary for the proper use of an ice axe, traveling in balance, self belay, and self arrest. You also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, as well as belay techniques.

    Day 2: After a hearty breakfast, we begin the day with an introduction to crampon use and climbing steeper snow and ice. We then focus on the skills required for safe and efficient glacier travel including roped travel and self-rescue (prussiking) techniques. This includes the means for each team member to correctly tie into the rope including the proper spacing of climbers based on the number of team members. After learning the proper techniques for traveling as a rope team, we then make a short glacial “tour,” enabling us to practice and comprehend the day’s lessons. Discussions late in the day will focus on navigation with the use of a map and compass.

    Day 3: Our main focus for the day is crevasse rescue. Your group will get more practice placing effective snow anchors and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create “bomber” anchors. You will put them to use as you learn the fundamentals of crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. Your team will perform a number of team rescues and a multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

    Day 4: Today your group will move to a high camp in preparation for your summit attempt. After establishing camp, you will further refine your steep snow and ice climbing with an emphasis on French, German and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Later in the day, your guides will lead a discussion of avalanche terrain evaluation and avoidance. This evening, we will make final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.

    Day 5: After a pre-dawn wake-up and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today your group will apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of your group, it will take five to eight hours to reach the summit. After enjoying the views and a snack, and absorbing your accomplishments, students will navigate and lead their team back to high camp.

    Day 6: Today is reserved as a backup summit day or a chance to refine the skills you have been taught throughout the course. Depending on the conditions we may give more time to learning advanced snow and ice skills or take the opportunity to go to Mt. Erie for an introduction to rock climbing techniques. Overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Mt. Erie provides an excellent chance to learn and practice rock climbing techniques including appropriate equipment selection, belaying, rappelling, and efficient movement over rock. At the end of the day, we will pack up our gear and head back to Seattle. Expect to be in Seattle between 6 and 8 PM.

    NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Students will be advised of the location of their course within two weeks prior to the start date, based upon current snow, route, and weather conditions.

    WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges, the weather in the Cascades Range is unpredictable and adverse conditions can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over these conditions and last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled. This may include waiting for the weather to pass as the best plan of action.

    QUALIFICATIONS:
    Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. to base camp.

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INTRODUCTION TO ROCK CLIMBING

This class is designed to accommodate first time climbers as well as those with some indoor rock climbing experience. We begin with friction climbing to develop your balance, and then incorporate both face and crack climbing techniques before progressing to more challenging climbs. You will learn safe climbing protocols under the guidance of experienced and supportive instructors. It is our intent to educate, encourage and enlighten you in the rewards and pure fun of rock climbing. Equipment, belays, anchors, knots, rappelling and lowering are all thoroughly covered. An additional objective of this class is for students to be able to safely evaluate and set up their own top ropes.

Client to Guide Ratio: 5:1
Climbing Grade: Beginner

2005 COURSE DATES
TBA

Cost: $225

COST INCLUDES: All group climbing equipment and professional instruction.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Personal climbing equipment (rock shoes, climbing harness, large locking carabiner), transportation, gratuities for guides, meals, lodging, and personal items.

Course curriculum:
  • Selection and use of ropes, knots & harnesses
  • Anchor construction, equalization, and evaluation of top-rope, lead climbing and rappel anchors
  • Development of face, slab and crack climbing techniques
  • Belaying a lead climber, lowering, and rappelling techniques
  • Route selection, rope management and route finding
  • Multi pitch climbing techniques
  • Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards

LOCATION: Leavenworth, Washington is located east of Seattle via US 2 (Stevens Pass Hwy.). Driving time from Seattle is approximately 2 1/2 hours. Classes meet at 9:00 a.m. at O'Grady's Pantry, Sleeping Lady. To get there turn south off Hwy 2 onto Icicle Rd. at the western edge of Leavenworth. Travel ~2.5 miles on Icicle Rd., past the Leavenworth National Fish Hatchery and Homefires Bakery. Turn left into Sleeping Lady. Do not follow the major curve to the right that leads into Icicle Canyon.

LODGING/CAMPING: On Saturday evening climbers are welcome to stay at the Johnny Creek Forest Service campground located on Icicle Creek Road, upstream from the Snow Creek Parking Lot. Camping spots are available on a first come-first served basis. However, there are numerous motels, bed and breakfasts, inns, etc. available in and around Leavenworth.

EQUIPMENT: You must bring your own rock shoes, climbing harness, and climbing helmet. All ropes, slings, and hardware will be provided. Because there are a wide variety of belay/friction devices available, students are encouraged to bring their own belay/friction device or any other equipment they wish to learn more about. Be prepared for both hot and/or cool weather. Bring sunglasses, sun hat, sun screen, shorts, a pair of long pants or tights, a wind shirt and a light sweater for cooler weather, hiking shoes (sneakers are fine), a small day pack, lunch, and a couple of quarts of water.

  • FITTING ROCK SHOES: How tight? We recommend that students begin with a more comfortable fit. While it is true that tight shoes equal improved performance, comfort is a primary concern while learning to climb. Try a few pairs of shoes on and apply weight to the toe area. The toes should touch the end of the shoe without curling under. Many climbers eventually own two pairs: a tight pair for short hard climbs and a more comfortable pair for longer climbs.

  • FITTING HARNESSES: The harness should be fit above the hips at the waist. At the waist, the harness should fit snugly without being tight. Leg loops fit can be a little looser, and should not restrict leg movement. A full body style harness is recommended for smaller climbers, usually for ages 5-13.

  • RENTAL INFORMATION: Mountain Madness rents climbing harnesses for the two-day class. Call for rates and information on other rentals. We do not rent rock shoes. In addition to Mountain Madness, rental equipment is available at the following locations in the Seattle area:
    Vertical World, Seattle: 206-283-4497 Marmot, Bellevue: 425-453-1515
    Feathered Friends, Seattle: 206-292-2210 REI, Redmond: 425-882-1158
    REI, Seattle: 206-223-1944 Vertical World, Redmond: 425-881-8826

ITINERARY
Day 1:
The day begins with an equipment review and a lesson on the essential knot skills required for the day’s climbing. You will also learn proper belaying techniques that will prepare you for actual climbing. Once the basics are covered, you begin climbing. Communication signals and various friction climbing techniques will be covered. After a break, the group will move onto steeper terrain. Top rope set-up, rappelling, and rope management will round out the day’s activities. In the evening, Mountain Madness guides will often head into town for a relaxing meal or prepare their meals at the campground. You are welcome to join them to discuss the day’s lesson or to learn more about Mountain Madness and climbing.

Day 2: The second day will include more climbing and a review of the previous day’s lessons. As the group moves on to steeper and more challenging terrain, you will learn anchor evaluation as well as face and crack climbing techniques. We generally wrap up the course by about 4:00 p.m.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: In this course, the guides use their experience and knowledge of the area to match students with routes that will appropriately challenge and reward. Guides may select an alternate climb for these reasons. Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

WEATHER: Due to its location on the east side of the Cascades, the area around Leavenworth receives considerably less rain than Seattle and western Washington. It is usually warmer than Seattle in the summer, and colder in the winter by 10-15 degrees F. The rock-climbing season in the Leavenworth area usually begins in late March or early April and continues until late October.

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MOUNTAIN MADNESS' ANNUAL WOMEN'S RETREAT
Rock Climbing and Yoga in Leavenworth, Washington
All levels of climbers, yoga lovers welcome!

Mountain Madness’ annual women’s retreat is designed to have a little something for everyone. Participants greet each day with an empowering yoga session, and then, centered and ready for action, climb in Icicle Creek Canyon.

Whether it is to develop grace and coordination, reach a deeper sense of personal achievement, learn technical skills, or to share in a challenging activity, there is no experience quite like reaching the top of a challenging pitch with the support of your belay partner and sheer determination. Participants will focus on techniques to encourage efficiency, build confidence, learn skills, and develop awareness. In addition to teaching skills and techniques, and providing a supportive atmosphere, we emphasize the development and celebration of women as climbers. The class is open to all women - no experience necessary.

This 2-day weekend is designed for those who appreciate the unique camaraderie that takes place when a group of women, together, undertake a demanding adventure. Mountain Madness’ highly skilled and professional female instructors will do their utmost to meet individual skill levels. Mothers, daughters, sisters, friends – all are welcome! Ideal for any age and experience level.

2005 Dates: September 10-11
Cost: $280 per person

COST INCLUDES: Ropes, guide, group climbing gear, group camp site reservation, cook-out dinner Saturday night and yoga sessions.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Transportation, food (other than Saturday night), lodging (other than camping at reserved campground site), and personal climbing equipment.

ITINERARY
Day 1:
The day begins with an equipment review and a lesson on the essential knot skills required for the day’s climbing. You will also learn proper belaying techniques that will prepare you for actual climbing. Once the basics are covered, you begin climbing. Communication signals and various friction climbing techniques will be covered. After a break, the group will move onto steeper terrain. Top rope set-up, rappelling, and rope management will round out the day's activities. The day will finish with a one hour yoga session and then a cook out dinner at our camp site.

Day 2: The second day will begin with a morning yoga session. After yoga and breakfast we will head to the crags. The morning will include more climbing and a review of the previous day’s lessons. As the group moves on to steeper and more challenging terrain, you will learn anchor evaluation as well as face and crack climbing techniques. We generally wrap up the course by about 4:00 p.m.


WEATHER: Due to its location on the east side of the Cascades, the area around Leavenworth receives considerably less rain than Seattle and western Washington. It is usually warmer than Seattle in the summer, and colder in the winter by 10-15 degrees F. The rock-climbing season in the Leavenworth area usually begins in late March or early April and continues until late October.

EQUIPMENT: You must bring your own rock shoes, climbing harness, climbing helmet, hiking shoes for hikers, & yoga mats. All ropes, slings, and hardware will be provided. Because there are a wide variety of belay/friction devices available, students are encouraged to bring their own belay/friction device or any other equipment they wish to learn more about. Be prepared for both hot and/or cool weather. Bring sunglasses, sun hat, sun screen, shorts, a pair of long pants or tights, a wind shirt and a light sweater for cooler weather, hiking shoes (sneakers are fine), a small day pack, lunch, and a couple of quarts of water.

  • FITTING ROCK SHOES: How tight? We recommend that students begin with a more comfortable fit. While it is true that tight shoes equal improved performance, comfort is a primary concern while learning to climb. Try a few pairs of shoes on and apply weight to the toe area. The toes should touch the end of the shoe without curling under. Many climbers eventually own two pairs: a tight pair for short hard climbs and a more comfortable pair for longer climbs.

  • FITTING HARNESSES: The harness should be fit above the hips at the waist. At the waist, the harness should fit snugly without being tight. Leg loops fit can be a little looser, and should not restrict leg movement. A full body style harness is recommended for smaller climbers, usually for ages 5-13.
  • RENTAL INFORMATION: Mountain Madness rents climbing harnesses for the two-day class. Call for rates and information on other rentals. We do not rent rock shoes. In addition to Mountain Madness, rental equipment is available at the following locations in the Seattle area:
  • Vertical World, Seattle: 206-283-4497 Marmot, Bellevue: 425-453-1515
  • Feathered Friends, Seattle: 206-292-2210 REI, Redmond: 425-882-1158
  • REI, Seattle: 206-223-1944 Vertical World, Redmond: 425-881-8826


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