• Introduction to Mountaineering
• Mt Rainier - Crevasse Rescue Course
• Glacier Mountaineering Course
• Alpine Climbing Course - 8-Day
• Alpine Climbing Course – 13 Day

Level 2 Intro, GMC or equivalent required

• Intermediate Alpine Mountaineering

• Expedition Training Course - North Cascades

• Alpine Ice Climbing Course

• Denali Prep - Mt Rainier

• Alaska Mountaineering Courses

• Picket Range Expedition

• Advanced Alpine Course

LEVEL 2

INTERMEDIATE ALPINE MOUNTAINEERING

This course targets our Intro to Mountaineering and Glacier Mountaineering, and 8-Day Alpine Climbing Course graduates (or those with equivalent experience). Its goal is to hone your skills and increase your confidence to lead small parties in an alpine environment. Over 5 days, you will complete a traverse in the heart of the Cascades which will provide a great route finding and cross country travel (no trails!) experience. Students play a key role in trip planning and preparation as well as route finding and decision making.

Client/Guide Ratio: 4:1
Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner

2011 DATES: (5 days)

• June 11-15
• July 3-7
• August 21-25

COST: $975

Course curriculum includes:

• Ice axe positioning and proper application of all axe positions for climbing moderate and steep snow and ice
  
• Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
  
• Lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch ice climbing
  
• Selection and proper use of ropes, anchor equipment, north wall hammers and ice climbing tools
  
• Crampon usage and techniques: French, German, and American techniques
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse self rescue (prussiking) and team crevasse rescue scenarios
  
• Navigation using a map, compass, and altimeter
  
• Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall.
  
• Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
  

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, tents, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, food in the mountains and restaurant meals, cooking gear, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

COURSE ITINERARY:
Day 1: After a 7:00 am orientation we drive to the trailhead and prepare to climb to our base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4-7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) Our hike takes us through many ecological zones and gives the group a chance to admire and photograph ancient forests and alpine meadows. We will then construct our base camp, focusing on the methods for establishing protected camps, building tent platforms, snow walls, and properly securing the tent. Time permitting, we review snow and ice climbing techniques, belaying skills, and discuss the fragile alpine environment, Leave No Trace skills, and equipment usage and selection.

Day 2: Throughout the trip, we will regularly assess subjective versus objective hazards, such as weather, avalanche and hypothermia, then use this information when planning our route or climbing strategy. After establishing Camp II, we move out to the snowfield to review and practice fundamental snow skills. We will practice self-arrest, balance positioning, and ascending and descending moderate to steep snow. We will also focus on placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction and equalization of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. The evening will focus on planning the route for the next few days. The students are required to help formulate a style, determine the safest route and camp locations by studying topographic maps, and navigate using map, compass, and altimeter.

Day 3: We begin our day with a hot breakfast, breaking camp, and continuing our traverse through the glaciers of the Austera/Inspiration/Klawatti Icecap. Students will take a more aggressive leadership role and be out in front route finding through the glaciers and passes. After establishing camp we review essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, rope management, and snow bridge evolution. Simple crevasse rescue hauling systems will be reviewed (C and Z pulley systems) and we will then construct more complicated and powerful systems such as the ZxC and Canadian Drop loop. A multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. Day 3 will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 4: Our group will move on to the final camp along our high traverse, which requires traveling on the glacier with full packs. Proper techniques for camping on the glacier will be covered as students “dig in” on the upper slopes of the mountain. In the evening your guides will lead a focused discussion related to the specifics of high altitude mountaineering such as proper acclimatization, high altitude physiology, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral Edema (HAPE & HACE) and the proper use of high altitude medications will all be covered. You'll review the skills essential for the ascent, and prepare for summit day.

Day 5: After an early morning wake-up (1 a.m.) and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today students apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views. After basking in a sense of accomplishment and enjoying a snack, students will navigate and lead the team down to high camp in time for a hot lunch. After eating lunch, you will break camp and descend to the trailhead. You'll spend some more time on navigation and route finding on your way to the van and civilization.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the itinerary listed, it is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

QUALIFICATIONS: Previous mountaineering experience and beginner/intermediate snow skills are required. Please call Mountain Madness if you have any questions.

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• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Team and individual crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios
  
• Snow climbing, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
  
• Team and individual self arrest techniques
  
• Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
  
• Ice climbing and crampon usage techniques
  
• Belaying, rappelling, and rope management
  
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
  
• Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
  
• Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
  
• Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
  
• Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
  

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, tents, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, food in the mountains and restaurant meals, cooking gear, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

COURSE ITINERARY

Day 1: 6:30 a.m. orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check, we drive from Seattle to Mt. Erie for the day. Here your instruction begins with introduction to rock climbing techniques. While overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca, you will have the opportunity to learn a variety of rock climbing techniques, fixed line ascent and descent and learn more about the knots and equipment we utilize during the course. At the end of the day, we will return to our campground along the coast of the San Juan Islands and enjoy a hearty dinner by the campfire. This evening we will review the skills learned throughout the day, and assemble our gear for the remainder of our journey.

Day 2: We drive from Anacortes to the trailhead and begin our hike to our first camp. We climb “Expedition Style” up one of the Cascades volcanoes and begin our journey on snowshoes while pulling sleds, if necessary. We will use a series of camps and, along the way, will master skills such as efficient methods for sled hauling, deep-snow travel, and efficient movement up the mountain. Arriving at our first camp, we will focus on the methods for establishing protected camps, building tent platforms, snow walls, and properly securing the tent.

Day 3: Throughout the trip, we will always be assessing various kinds of hazards, such as weather, avalanche and hypothermia. Students will assess subjective versus objective hazards and then use this information when planning our route or climbing strategy. After establishing Camp II, we move out to the snowfield to review and practice fundamental snow skills. We will practice self-arrest, balance positioning, and ascending and descending moderate to steep snow. We will also focus on placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction and equalization of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue.

Day 4: We begin our day with a hot breakfast, breaking camp and moving higher up the mountain. Students will take a more aggressive leadership role and will be required to help formulate a style, determine the safest route and camp locations by studying topographic maps, and navigate using a map, compass, and altimeter. After establishing camp we review essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, rope management, and snow bridge evolution. Simple crevasse rescue hauling systems will be reviewed (C and Z pulley systems) and we will then construct more complicated and powerful systems such as the ZxC and Canadian Drop loop. A multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will also learn to set fixed lines and how to ascend and descend with mechanical ascending devices. Day 3 will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 5: Our group will move to our high camp on the mountain, which requires traveling on the glacier with full packs and possibly hauling sleds. Students will learn techniques for rigging the sleds onto the rope, traversing with sleds, and rigging brakes on the sleds. Proper techniques for camping on the glacier will be covered as students “dig in” on the upper slopes of the mountain. In the evening your guides will lead a focused discussion related to the specifics of high altitude mountaineering such as proper acclimatization, high altitude physiology, Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary and Cerebral Edema (HAPE & HACE) and the proper use of high altitude medications will all be covered.

Day 6: You'll review the skills essential for the ascent, circumnavigate the summit pyramid, and prepare for summit day.

Day 7: After an early morning wake-up (1 a.m.) and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today students apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views. After basking in a sense of accomplishment and enjoying a snack, students will navigate and lead the team down to high camp in time for a hot lunch.

Day 8: After waking leisurely and eating breakfast, you will break camp and descend to the trailhead. You'll spend some more time on navigation and route finding. If weather is bad on Day 7, you may use Day 8 as summit day.


NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow this itinerary, it is subject to change at any time due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges, the weather in the Cascade Range is unpredictable and adverse conditions can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over these conditions and last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being cancelled. This may include waiting for the weather to pass as the best plan of action.

QUALIFICATIONS: Previous mountaineering experience is not required.

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ALPINE ICE CLIMBING COURSE

Taught in the rugged glaciated environments of the Cascade Mountains, this course is designed for climbers who are interested in developing their ability to ice climb on longer alpine routes. This course helps to develop the skills necessary to lead on complex alpine ice terrain and gives students the valuable experience of climbing via more challenging and exposed routes. This intensive training program culminates with an ascent of a technical route such as the North Ridge or Coleman Headwall on Mount Baker, or the Adams Glacier on Mount Adams. This course serves as a solid foundation for alpine ice climbing and allows for participation in follow-up climbs on many of Mountain Madness’ advanced climbs in South America, Alaska, and the Himalayas.

Client/Guide Ratio: 4:1 during the course; 2:1 for the final ascent
Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner

2011 DATES: (6 days)

July 23-28 (Mt Baker)

August 5-10 (Mt Baker)

COST: $1,375

Download Equipment List

Course curriculum includes:

• Ice axe positioning and proper application of all axe positions for climbing moderate and steep snow and ice
  
• Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
  
• Lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch ice climbing
  
• Selection and proper use of ropes, anchor equipment, north wall hammers and ice climbing tools
  
• Crampon usage and techniques: French, German, and American techniques
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse self rescue (prussiking) and team crevasse rescue scenarios
  
• Navigation using a map, compass, and altimeter
  
• Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
  

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, tents, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, food in the mountains and restaurant meals, cooking gear, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

COURSE ITINERARY:

Day 1: After a 7:00 am orientation we drive to the trailhead and prepare to climb to our base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4-7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) Our hike takes us through many ecological zones and gives the group a chance to admire and photograph ancient forests and alpine meadows. We will then construct our base camp, and time permitting, review snow and ice climbing techniques, belaying skills, and discuss the fragile alpine environment, Leave No Trace skills, and equipment usage and selection.

Day 2: Climbing in small groups, we expand on the first day’s review and begin to hone our steep snow and ice climbing techniques. Technical climbing in a stable ice fall with an instructor allows refinement of French, German and American crampon techniques. We also focus on single and double tool climbing styles. We begin to introduce protection systems for snow and ice and the application of these systems for steep, technical terrain.

Day 3: Today is focused on further developing our protection systems for steep climbing as well as for glacier travel, focusing on assessment of various systems and managing different scenarios. We cover a broad spectrum of crevasse rescue techniques, construct and equalize multiple snow and ice anchors, and learn fundamental skills for crevasse pattern prediction and route finding skills. Additionally, students will learn to assess and manage objective and subjective hazards, evaluate safe climbing conditions, and discuss the role weather plays in this assessment.

Day 4: Additional time is spent on rescue systems and scenarios for different methods of glacier travel. We will also learn techniques for placing intermediate protection as we focus on techniques for leading technical ice. Route finding skills will be discussed and practiced as we climb over low to steep angle alpine ice and make a series of rappels. Multi-pitch climbing, simul-climbing, and hanging belays will be addressed.

Day 5: Today we move to a high camp where we make preparations for our summit climb. Climbing high on the mountain near the base of our route allows closer evaluation of conditions and gives us time to refine our glacier travel technique.

Day 6: This day will involve challenging free climbing and route finding as we climb a technical route suited to the group’s abilities. We generally climb the Coleman Headwall, North Ridge, or Roman Mustache of Mt. Baker. Another venue is the Adams Glacier on Mt. Adams. Upon returning to camp we will grab a quick lunch, break camp, and begin the descent back to the trailhead. On the drive home we usually stop for a well-deserved hot meal and begin to make arrangements for continuing friendships and planning the next climbing adventure.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the itinerary listed, it is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Once on the mountain, the ascent route is chosen by the guides based on conditions and group abilities. Different routes will be chosen when appropriate.

QUALIFICATIONS: Previous mountaineering experience and beginner/intermediate snow skills are required. Please call Mountain Madness if you have any questions.

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DENALI PREP - MOUNT RAINIER

This course is designed for the climber who is aspiring to participate in or lead an expedition to Denali or the Vinson Massif – or other similar large glaciated peaks in South America, Asia, or the Arctic region. Expedition climbing requires specific skills that relate to the demands of extended living on glaciers and in potentially extreme weather. Important skills that will be covered are: building effective snow shelters, formulating a climbing strategy, crevasse navigation and rescue techniques, sled hauling, and climbing with full packs. This course is held on the immense terrain of Mt Rainier – the Muir Snowfield, the Nisqually, Cowlitz and Paradise Glaciers – and will be conducted “expedition style,” moving camp to camp. There is no summit attempt built into this winter conditions itinerary. Group size/ratio is limited to ensure that all participants receive individual instruction and that all customized needs are addressed.

Course Curriculum Includes:

• Roped glacier travel, fixed line travel, rope team management, route finding, sled hauling, and crevasse navigation
• Team and individual crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios
• Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
• Snow and ice climbing techniques
• Belaying, rappelling, and rope management
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern recognition
• Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
• Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
• Hazard assessment including: discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
• Discussions include proper clothing and equipment for survival in the high alpine environment, expedition climbing tactics, mountain weather, alpine ecology, and Leave No Trace ethics.

Client/Guide Ratio: 4:1

Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner

2011 Course Dates (5 days): April 9-13 & April 30-May 4

Cost: $975

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.

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ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING COURSES Ruth Glacier – 9 Day Expedition Training Course This course is held in the famed Ruth Gorge - a mere ten air miles SE of Denali - and is the Alaska equivalent of our popular North Cascades Expedition Training. Well-known guidebook author Joe Puryear calls the Ruth “the veritable playground of the Alaska range.” In 9 days we will work on all the fundamentals of expedition style mountaineering; providing you a solid foundation for future adventures to Alaska, South America, and the Himalaya. Glacier travel, navigation, sled hauling, crevasse rescue, and snow and ice climbing are among the topics covered. Ascents may include: Explorers’ Peak, Consolation Peak, or Mount Barrill. Client/Guide Ratio 4:1 (max size 8) Climbing Grade: Intermediate 2011 COURSE DATES (9 days): April 17 – April 25 May 1-May 9 Cost: $1,950 COST INCLUDES: Glacier flights, food, tents, group gear, sleds, guide services. COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging, guide gratuities, and personal equipment. Eldridge Glacier – 7 Day Mountaineering Course This is a shorter version of the Ruth Gorge course, and akin to our Glacier Mountaineering Course in the North Cascades. A base camp on the remote Eldridge Glacier perfectly situates our small team to train and climb in this spectacular area. We’ll keep this group small, and the ratios low, to maximize time, climbing potential, and learning opportunities. Client/Guide Ratio 3:1 (max size 6) Climbing Grade: Intermediate 2011 COURSE DATES (7 days): May 2-8 Cost: $2,200 COST INCLUDES: Glacier flights, food, tents, group gear, guide services. COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Transportation to and from Talkeetna, lodging, guide gratuities, and personal equipment. TOP

LEVEL 3

ADVANCED ALPINE COURSE

This course, taught in the rugged glaciated environments of the Cascade Mountains, is designed for climbers who are interested in developing their ability to climb in mixed terrain on longer alpine routes. This course helps develop the skills necessary to lead on complex alpine ice terrain, and gives students the valuable experience of climbing via more challenging and exposed routes. This intensive training program culminates with an ascent of Forbidden Peak and Mount Buckner (weather permitting).

The philosophy of fast and light alpine climbing is the main theme of the course. The topics taught include: advanced climbing techniques, equipment choice, leading on rock & ice, complex anchor systems and rescue techniques. This course is perfect training for Mountain Madness’ Ama Dablam and Alpamayo climbs, or for your own personal ascent goals.

Client/Guide Ratio 2:1 or 1:1
Climbing Grade: Intermediate

2011 COURSE DATES (8 days):
June 12-19
July 10-17
August 14-21
Sept 11-18

Cost: 2:1 $1,795, 1:1 $2,795

Download Equipment List

Course curriculum:

• Review knots and anchors
  
• Placing protection and belay anchors
  
• Belay escapes & blocked Italian hitch
  
• Load transfers, lowering & passing the knot
  
• Ascending to and rappelling with victim
  
• Raising systems
  
• Ice axe positioning and proper application of all axe positions for climbing moderate and steep snow and ice
  
• Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
  
• Lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch ice climbing
  
• Selection and proper use of ropes, anchor equipment, north wall hammers and ice climbing tools
  
• Crampon usage and techniques: French, German, and American techniques
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse rescue review
  
• Advanced navigation and trip planning techniques
  
• Hazard assessment of objective vs. subjective hazards, avalanche danger, crevasses, rock and ice fall.
  
• Mountain weather, alpine ecology, Leave No Trace ethics, and moving fast and light in an alpine environment - balancing speed with safety
  

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, tents, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, food in the mountains and restaurant meals, cooking gear, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

COURSE ITINERARY:
Days 1 - 3: These three days are scheduled for advanced climbing techniques, intro to leading, and rock rescue at Leavenworth, Index or Fun Rock.

Day 4: We pack up early and hike into Fisher Chimneys of Mt Shuksan. After we set-up camp we review skills and strategize for the upcoming days. Technical climbing in a stable ice fall with an instructor allows refinement of French, German and American crampon techniques.

Day 5: Climbing in small groups, we expand on the first day’s review and begin to focus on single and double tool climbing styles. We also begin to introduce protection systems for snow and ice and the application of these systems for steep, technical terrain. Additional time is spent on rescue systems and scenarios for different methods of glacier travel. We will also learn techniques for placing intermediate protection as we focus on techniques for leading technical ice. Route finding skills will also be discussed and practiced as we climb over low to steep angle alpine ice and make a series of rappels. Multi-pitch climbing, simul-climbing, and hanging belays will also be addressed.

Days 6 - 7: This day will involve challenging free climbing and route finding as we climb a technical route suited to the group’s abilities. Traveling light, we set out early to cover as much diverse terrain as possible from rock ridges, snow arêtes, and fifty degree ice, to heavily crevassed glaciers. Additionally, students learn to assess and manage objective and subjective hazards, evaluate safe climbing conditions, and learn the role weather plays in this assessment. Hopefully you will have a chance to enjoy the summit and get down to camp before dark.

Day 8: Hike out and return to Seattle.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to bad weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges, the weather in the Cascade Range is unpredictable and adverse conditions can roll in at any time, limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over these conditions and last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled. This may include waiting for the weather to pass as the best plan of action.

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Intermediate, with the ability to follow 5.9 rock, waterfall ice grade 3, and snow and ice up to 60 degrees required.

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PICKET RANGE EXPEDITION

This course, taught in the rugged glaciated environments of the Cascade Mountains, is designed for climbers who are interested in developing their ability to plan and lead remote expeditions in North America and beyond. The philosophy of fast and light alpine climbing is the main theme of the course. The topics taught include: advanced climbing techniques, equipment choice, leading on rock & ice, complex anchor systems and rescue techniques. This course is perfect training for Mountain Madness’ Ama Dablam and Alpamayo climbs, or for your own personal ascent goals.

"I wanted to send my thanks for great trip to the Picket range. Pablo is a true professional and really made the trip a big success for me. He is on top of his game as guide and leader in the field. He inspires confidence, teaches skills with patience and a creates a fun atmosphere. We went after some tough objectives and with that I achieved exactly what had hoped for. I look forward to climbing with you again next year and hopefully seeing Pablo lead those trips. A great experience once again for my third trip with Mountain Madness." ~Todd DeGreen

Client/Guide Ratio 2:1
Climbing Grade: Intermediate

2011 COURSE DATES
June 16-23
July 20-27

Cost: 2:1 $1,795; 1:1 $2,795
Course curriculum:

• Food/fuel planning, & equipment choice for multi-day expeditions
  
• Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
  
• Lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch ice climbing
  
• Selection and proper use of ropes, anchor equipment, north wall hammers and ice climbing tools
  
• Crampon usage and techniques: French, German, and American techniques
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse rescue review
  
• Advanced navigation and trip planning techniques
  
• Hazard assessment of: objective vs. subjective hazards, avalanche danger, crevasses, rock and ice fall
  
• Mountain weather, alpine ecology, Leave No Trace ethics, and moving fast and light in an alpine environment - balancing speed with safety
  

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, tents, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, food in the mountains and restaurant meals, cooking gear, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

COURSE ITINERARY:
Days 1 & 2: These two days are scheduled for food planning, gear selection and approaching up Big Beaver Creek.

Day 3: Depending on the conditions and skill level, we will review crevasse rescue or attempt our first objective, Mt. Challenger, traversing the Whatcom and Challenger Glaciers, ascending a 5.7 rock pitch to the summit.

Days 4-6: Traveling light, we set out early and begin our ascents in the area. Objectives include Inspiration Peak, Chopping Block, and the north face of Mt. Fury. During this time, we will carry all our belongings and be able to set up camp or bivi as conditions dictate. The objective of these days is to cover as much diverse terrain as possible from rock ridges, snow arêtes, and fifty degree ice, to heavily crevassed glaciers. Additionally, students learn to assess and manage objective and subjective hazards, evaluate safe climbing conditions, and learn the role weather plays in this assessment.

Day 7-8: Hike out and return to Seattle.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to bad weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges, the weather in the Cascade Range is unpredictable and adverse conditions can roll in at any time, limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over these conditions and last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled. This may include waiting for the weather to pass as the best plan of action.

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Intermediate, with the ability to follow 5.9 rock, waterfall ice grade 3, and snow and ice up to 60 degrees required.

TOP

• Food/fuel planning, &equipment choice for multi-day expeditions
  
• Snow and ice anchor placement, construction, and equalization
  
• Lead climbing techniques, intermediate protection, and multi-pitch ice climbing
  
• Selection and proper use of ropes, anchor equipment, north wall hammers and ice climbing tools
  
• Crampon usage and techniques: French, German, and American techniques
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse rescue review
  
• Advanced navigation and trip planning techniques
  
• Hazard assessment of objective vs. subjective hazards, avalanche danger, crevasses, rock and ice fall
  
• Mountain weather, alpine ecology, Leave No Trace ethics, and moving fast and light in an alpine environment - balancing speed with safety
  

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Helicopter flight to the mountain,airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.

COURSE ITINERARY:

Days 1-2: These two days are scheduled for food planning, gear selection, driving 12 hours up to Tatla Lake and flying into Waddington.

Days 3-5: Depending on the conditions and skill level, we will review crevasse rescue or begin climbing to the Bravo Spearman Col.

Days 6-9 Attempt Waddington summit and, if time allows, some of the neighboring peaks.

Days 10-11: Fly out and drive to Squamish for some well deserved R&R.

Day 12: Climb in the morning then return to Seattle.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to bad weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Intermediate, with the ability to follow 5.9 rock, waterfall ice grade 3, and snow and ice up to 60 degrees required.

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