• Introduction to Mountaineering
• Glacier Mountaineering Course
• Alpine Climbing Course - 8-Day
• Alpine Climbing Course – 13 Day

Level 2: Intro to Mountaineering, GMC or equivalent required

• Intermediate Mountaineering
• Expedition Training Course - North Cascades
• Alpine Ice Climbing Course
• Advanced Alpine Course

• Picket Range Expedition
• Waddington Expedition

COURSE LOCATIONS in the North Cascades and Olympic National Parks and the Alpine Lakes, Glacier Peak, and Mount Baker Wilderness areas are hands the best possible. Visitors will find ancient forests, cascading waterfalls, hundreds of glaciers, pristine alpine lakes and meadows, and wildlife that include wolves, bears, marmots, mountain goats, and a variety of birds. Because of its rugged approaches, exceptional alpine terrain, and unrivaled scenery, it is the premiere training ground for climbers in North America.

ALPINE LEADERSHIP PROGRAM: All the training you receive is based on carefully designed, progressive course curriculums that include hands-on training with ropes, ice axes and crampons, rock and ice anchors, as well as lectures on glaciology, mountain weather, navigation, proper equipment, alpine ecology, Leave No Trace Ethics, and much more. Along with becoming well-versed in the art of mountain craft, students gain an understanding of the complexities involved in the decision-making process and judgment required for safe travel in the mountains of the world. All courses culminate with an ascent of a major Cascade peak.

We offer courses in three disciplines; rock, summer alpine climbing, and ski mountaineering and avalanche safety. We divided our courses into three levels to correspond with your previous experience and will assist you in creating a progression to reach your climbing goals.

The Objectives of our School:

• To help beginners to develop the skills and judgment that ultimately allow participants to become independent, safe climbers, reliant on themselves and not the services of a guide.

• To give participants the experience needed to join progressively more challenging guided trips, from our Intro to Mountaineering course all the way to Mount Everest, and everything in between!

• To develop in aspiring guides the chance to learn from professionals while on their way to becoming professionals themselves in the industry, be it as leaders for mountaineering clubs, college climbing clubs, or up and coming guides for Mountain Madness!

Why Mountain Madness’ Mountaineering School?

American Mountain Guide Association Accreditation: We are one of few guide services accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association, which lets you know that our service meets an internationally recognized standard of reliability and professionalism both in the field and in our office. For more information about this see Why Venture With Us.

Mountain Madness Guides: Our guides have been where you want to go and know what it takes to get there. All of our Northwest guides hold a Wilderness First Responder and most have been trained or certified by the American Mountain Guides Association. Many have acheived the highest level of professional training with full AMGA certification. All continue to pursue their own climbing excellence through expeditions and challenging ascents.

Meticuously Crafted Curriculum: We are deeply committed to providing our students with the best level of service and instruction possible. Our curriculum have been carefully designed to take climbers from walking on snow to ascending vertical ice and rock. For every course we select locations that alow us to best acheive the objective. We maintain small group sizes so that each client gets individual attention and training. Whether on rock, ice or snow – we offer all the courses you need to become the complete alpinist.

What's Included: Simply put, Mountain Madness just offers more. All of our scheduled North American Mountaineering courses, with the exception of private/custom trips, include:

• Meals while on the mountain - and the guides do the cooking!
• Tents and climbing equipment
• Transportation from Seattle to the mountain and back
• Supportive office staff to help with your questions
• Full rental program: ice axe, harness, boots, crampons, helmets, packs, ski poles, and more available

International Mountaineering School

Our schools in Bolivia and Ecuador provide participants not only with new skills, but also high altitude, expeditionary experience. It’s a fast track to some of our bigger expeditions and a way to roll it all into one trip; skill set and altitude experience. Along the way there is a cultural and culinary feast to whet your appetite for the exotic climbs in the Greater Ranges of the world and the Seven Summits!

Whether you are a passionate beginner, want a refresher, or are ready to take your skills to the next level, Mountain Madness’ Alpine Mountaineering School will give you the safest and most logical progression to reach your goal.

“This trip surpassed my expectations especially in terms of the food, friendliness of office when I called, & first rate teaching ability & knowledge of the guide. I recommend it highly and without hesitation.”
— Cathleen G., 8 Day Alpine Climbing Course

"The guides at Mountain Madness did a particularly great job in identifying the group’s learning goals, experience, and potential, then tailored our experience to create the best possible outcome in a safe, challenging & appropriate climb that resulted in an amazing experience."
—Justin W., Beyond Basic Course

LEVEL 1

INTRODUCTION TO MOUNTAINEERING

The Introduction to Mountaineering Course is a great way for beginning climbers to learn the fundamentals of mountaineering, or for experienced climbers to review their skills. We spend four days in the North Cascades learning the essentials of alpine mountaineering, including snow and ice climbing skills, crevasse rescue, navigation, and route finding techniques. Our highly motivated and experienced guides are committed to making your mountaineering course a rewarding and educational experience.

Client/Guide Ratio 5:1

Climbing Grade: Beginner

2009 Dates (4 days):

Cost: $795

Download Equipment List

Course curriculum includes:

• Snow climbing, ice axe use and safety, and moving in balance
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
• Application of all ice axe positions and self arrest training
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
• Introduction to anchors and belaying
• Crampon usage and techniques
• Introduction to crevasse rescue
• Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
• Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
  

Included in Cost: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

Not Included in Cost: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

Qualifications: Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. to base camp.

Course Itinerary:

Day 1: After a 7:00 am orientation, we drive to the trailhead and begin our trek to high camp. Ascending approximately 3,500 feet over the course of 4-5 miles makes this portion of the trip fairly strenuous, but the hike also takes us through many scenic ecological zones and gives the group a chance to admire and photograph ancient forests and alpine meadows. Upon arrival at high camp, we set up our tents, cook a delicious meal, and begin discussions on equipment usage and selection, the alpine environment, Leave No Trace camping skills, and alpine ecology. After dinner we prepare for the next day’s instruction.

Day 2: After an early rise, we’ll enjoy a hearty mountain breakfast and then begin learning the fundamentals of proper snow climbing techniques. This will include the application of all ice axe positions, self belay, self arrest, and movement in balance. Following lunch, we begin familiarizing ourselves with essential knots for climbing, proper belay techniques and signals, movement over steeper terrain, and rappelling.

Day 3: Following a pre-dawn wake-up, we begin our summit attempt. Leaving camp in the dark, we travel in teams further up the mountain. As the sun begins to rise, our teams may be able to view the summit or, as we approach the summit, view the route we have traveled thus far. The climb from base camp to the summit gives climbers the opportunity to use and apply their newly acquired skills. On the summit we rest, enjoy the spectacular views, and bask in the sense of accomplishment of having worked as team members to reach our goal. Our descent to base camp gives us the chance to practice the additional skills necessary for down-climbing steep terrain.

Day 4: Today can be an alternate summit day or an opportunity to learn crevasse rescue techniques, including constructing and equalizing multiple anchor points and practicing rescue scenarios. We may also have the opportunity to review and further practice the skills we have learned thus far. Following our final discussions, we break camp and descend to the valleys where we celebrate a successful trip and begin planning the next climbing adventure.

Note on the Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Students will be advised of course location within two weeks prior to the start date based on current route and weather conditions.


TOP

GLACIER MOUNTAINEERING COURSE

Set in a spectacular environment that provides abundant learning opportunities, this comprehensive course is truly rewarding. It is designed for individuals aspiring to learn the fundamental skills of snow, ice, glacier, and rock climbing techniques, and includes the application of skills learned toward the ascent of major glaciated mountains. The majority of the time you will spend in the North Cascades where active glaciers, volcanic peaks, and breathtaking views create the ideal learning environment. A summit attempt at the end of the course gives you the chance to put your newly developed skills to the test. Our final day is reserved as a backup summit day or as a chance to learn basic rock climbing techniques at the scenic Mt. Erie located near the San Juan Islands. Our goal is to develop safe, self-reliant alpine climbers ready to climb locally or in the greater ranges of the world. This course is truly an excellent foundation for any climber seeking independence in the alpine arena.

No previous climbing experience necessary

Client/Guide Ratio 5:1

Climbing Grade: Beginner

2009 Dates (6 days):

• May 24-29 (includes Memorial Day)
• June 7-12 (full moon)
• June 28-July 3 (enjoy the 4th of July in Seattle!)
• July 12-17
• August 2-7 (full moon)
• August 16-21
• August 30-September 4 (full moon)

Cost: $1,195

Download Equipment List

Included in Cost: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

Not Included in Cost: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

Course Curriculum Includes:

• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and navigation
  
• Team and individual crevasse rescue techniques and scenarios
  
• Low angle to steep snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
  
• Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
  
• Intro to ice climbing and crampon techniques
  
• Team and individual self arrest techniques
  
• Belaying, rappelling, and rope management
  
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
  
• Basic rock-climbing techniques, commands, and equipment use
  
• Navigation using maps, compasses, and altimeters
  
• Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
  
• Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
• Proper clothing and equipment for survival in the glacial environment, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics

Course Itinerary:

Day 1: 6:30 a.m. orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check, we drive from Seattle to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. This hike is very strenuous and can take from 4 - 6 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) You’ll hike through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en-route to our base camp. After establishing camp, the remainder of the day will focus on the skills necessary for the proper use of an ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, and self arrest. You also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, as well as belay techniques.

Day 2: After a hearty breakfast, we begin the day with an introduction to crampon use and climbing steeper snow and ice. We then focus on the skills required for safe and efficient glacier travel including roped travel and self-rescue (prussiking) techniques. This includes the means for each team member to correctly tie into the rope including the proper spacing of climbers based on the number of team members. After learning the proper techniques for traveling as a rope team, we then make a short glacial “tour,” enabling us to practice and comprehend the day’s lessons. Discussions late in the day will focus on navigation with the use of a map and compass.

Day 3: Our main focus for the day is crevasse rescue. Your group will get more practice placing effective snow anchors and bollards and then learn to equalize them to create “bomber” anchors. You will put them to use as you learn the fundamentals of crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. Your team will perform a number of team rescues and a multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 4: Today your group will move to a high camp in preparation for your summit attempt. After establishing camp, you will further refine your steep snow and ice climbing with an emphasis on French, German and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Later in the day, your guides will lead a discussion of avalanche terrain evaluation and avoidance. That evening, we will make final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.

Day 5: After a pre-dawn wake-up and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today your group will apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of your group, it will take five to eight hours to reach the summit. After enjoying the views and a snack, and absorbing your accomplishments, students will navigate and lead their team back to high camp.

Day 6: Today is reserved as a backup summit day or a chance to refine the skills you have been taught throughout the course. Depending on the conditions we may give more time to learning advanced snow and ice skills or take the opportunity to go to Mt. Erie for an introduction to rock climbing techniques. Overlooking the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Mt. Erie provides an excellent chance to learn and practice rock climbing techniques including appropriate equipment selection, belaying, rappelling, and efficient movement over rock. At the end of the day, we will pack up our gear and head back to Seattle. Expect to be in Seattle between 6 and 8 PM on the last day.

Note on the Itinerary: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Students will be advised of the location of their course within two weeks prior to the start date, based upon current snow, route, and weather conditions.

Qualifications: Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. to base camp.


TOP

ALPINE CLIMBING COURSE

8 & 13-DAY OPTIONS

8-Day Option: Includes Ascent of Mount Shuksan

This comprehensive snow, rock, and ice mountaineering course is set high in the magnificent North Cascades and is designed to give individuals a solid foundation in a variety of alpine mountaineering skills. In order to develop a well rounded foundation of climbing experiences, this course includes ascents of a glaciated peak as well as alpine granite spires, each with its own diverse and unique challenges. This 8-day course begins with two days of rock climbing instruction in the Icicle Canyon area of Leavenworth, WA. Students then put their rock skills to use on the high granite spires of the Liberty Bell group, near Washington Pass. Next, the course moves to a high alpine environment where the focus shifts from rock skills to snow, ice and glacier climbing techniques. Students will have a chance to practically apply all the new skills on a summit climb on one of the dramatic nearby peaks. This course provides motivated beginning climbers with the intensive hands on experience necessary to move safely and efficiently over a wide diversity of climbing terrain. Completion of this course helps prepare climbers for expeditions to such places as Denali, the Polish Glacier Route on Aconcagua, The Matterhorn, Mount Blanc, and many more challenging ascents in the Cascades and in the greater ranges of the world.

Client/Guide Ratio 4:1

Climbing Grade: Beginner

2009 Dates (8 days):

• May 31-June 7 (full moon)
• June 28 - July 5
• August 2-9 (full moon) 
• August 30-September 6 (full moon)
  

Cost: $1,650

Download Equipment List

Course Curriculum Includes:

• Face, crack, and slab rock climbing technique, and multi-pitch alpine rock climbing
  
• Belay techniques, rappelling, and rope management
  
• Rock, snow and ice anchor selection, anchor construction, equalization, and use of intermediate protection for lead climbing
  
• Moderate and steep snow and ice climbing, crampon usage techniques, and proper application of combined skills in a variety of terrain
  
• Ice axe positioning, self arrest, and balance positioning
  
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse self-rescue techniques (prussiking) and team crevasse rescue techniques
  
• Navigation using a map, compass, and altimeters
  
• Hazard assessment including discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
  
• Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
  

Included in Cost: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services

Not Included in Cost: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

Course Itinerary:

Day 1: 7:00 a.m. orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check we drive to Leavenworth’s sunny Icicle Canyon where our rock climbing instruction begins. We start with a review of your rock climbing equipment, knots, proper belaying techniques and signals required for the day’s top-rope climbing. We will start with friction climbing to develop your balance and then incorporate both face and crack climbing techniques, before progressing to more challenging climbs. In the afternoon, placement of rock protection, top-rope set-up, rappel anchors, and rope management will round out the day’s activities.

Day 2: The second day will continue with more rock climbing on a diversity of climbs and a review of the previous day’s lessons. Students will receive an introduction to the practice and application of lead climbing. This will include more practice with the placement and evaluation of removable and fixed protection, equalizing anchors, lead climbing strategy, equipment selection and multi-pitch climbing.

Day 3: After an early rise, we drive to the Blue Lake trailhead and begin the 2 mile approach up to the base of the Early Winter Spires. Our first route in this impressive complex of massive spires and granite faces is up the South Arête of the South Spire (5-4). This is a great introductory multi-pitch alpine rock climb with a spectacular summit! This 600-foot climb follows a blocky arête where climbers stem, chimney, friction, and hand jam their way to the summit. Exposed down-climbing and a series of short and long rappels bring us down from the summit. After our descent to the trailhead we head back to our campground or down into Mazama for some food!

Day 4: We head back up to Washington Pass for some more classic ‘alpine cragging’! Today we tackle one of the great Cascades rock routes, the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, the massive 7,720 foot spire which captivates the imagination of every climber who looks up at its granite faces. The route Fred Beckey scouted in 1946, and the route we ascend, follows a series of chimneys, crack systems and slabs for 400 feet up the Southwest face. From the summit we can look across to the summits of the Early Winter Spires, the Wine Spires, Cutthroat Peak, Kangaroo Ridge, distant snow covered volcanoes, and dream of alpine routes yet to be climbed. After down climbing and rappelling, we descend the Blue Lakes Trail and head west toward our glacier mountaineering objective.

Day 5: After breakfast we head to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4-7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) We trek through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en route to our high camp. After setting up base camp, we perform an equipment review, discuss Leave No Trace camping techniques, and discuss the fragile ecology of the alpine zone. If time allows, we hold a brief snow school covering the use of ice axes and snow climbing techniques.

Day 6: Following breakfast, we hike to the glacier and continue learning snow-climbing techniques. Proper use of the ice axe, traveling in balance, self belay, and self-arrest will be covered. The afternoon is dedicated to teaching students the essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, knots, spacing of climbers, and rope management. We will also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. Students will get more practice placing pieces of snow protection and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create a “bomber” anchor. Students will then learn the foundation for crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. A multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 7: Our groups will move to a high camp where the guides will lead a discussion of glacier camping skills. Day 6 provides students an additional opportunity to practice the crevasse rescue skills they learned the day before in addition to setting up and equalizing anchors in different snow conditions. An introduction to rappelling and steep snow and ice climbing will be presented with an emphasis on French, German, and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Finally, every student will practice self-crevasse rescue (prussiking). That evening, we will make final preparations for our summit attempt.

Day 8: After an early morning wake-up (1 a.m.) and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today students apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views. After basking in a sense of accomplishment and enjoying a snack, students will navigate and lead the team down to high camp in time for a hot lunch. We break camp and hike to the trailhead and head back to Seattle, arriving late in the evening.

Course Locations: This course is conducted in several areas of the Cascades. The Glacier School will be held on one of the following major glaciated peaks: Mount Baker, Mount Adams, Eldorado Peak, Mount Shuksan, Boston Basin, or Mount Daniel. Rock climbing is taught primarily in the Icicle Creek Canyon in Leavenworth or at Mt. Erie, along the Washington coast.

Note on the Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. The nature of this course involves traveling to various locations throughout the northern part of Washington State. During this travel time we may stop for restaurant meals, when necessary. Climbers should be aware that these meals are not included in the course cost.

Qualifications: Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. in your pack.

What is the difference between the 8-day and 13-day Alpine Climbing Courses?
Our 8-day course was formed due to many requests from people to learn a variety of mountaineering skills while taking only a week away from work. The essential rock and glacier mountaineering skills learned are the same in both courses. The 13-day course offers 5 additional days of student led climbing activities on one or more peaks which give students experience leading small groups in an alpine environment and greater solidifies the skills learned earlier in the course.

Is there any way 8-day Alpine Climbing Course students gan get this extra experience later?
Yes, we offer a 5-day Intermediate Course (see level II). Students may decide to return later during the same year or come back the following year to take this course.

Intermediate Mountaineering Course: This course targets our Intro to Mountaineering, Glacier Mountaineering, and 8-Day Alpine Climbing Course graduates (or those with equivalent experience). Its goal is to hone your skills and increase your confidence to lead small parties in an alpine environment. Over 5 days, you will complete a traverse in the heart of the Cascades which will provide a great route finding and cross country travel (no trails!) experience. Students play a key role in trip planning and preparation as well as route finding and decision making.


TOP

ALPINE CLIMBING COURSE

8 & 13-DAY OPTIONS

13-Day Option: Includes Ascent of Mt. Shuksan

This comprehensive snow, rock, and ice mountaineering course, set high in the magnificent North Cascades, is designed to empower individuals with the knowledge necessary to lead small groups in the alpine environment. In order to develop a well rounded foundation of climbing experiences, each course includes ascents of different glaciated peaks and alpine granite spires, each with its own diverse and unique challenges. This 13-day course begins with two days of rock climbing instruction in the Icicle Canyon area of Leavenworth, WA. Students then participate in our 6-day Glacier Mountaineering Course in order to focus on the essentials of snow, ice and glacier climbing and to summit a glaciated peak. The final five days are “student led” and include an attempt of one or more technical peaks in the Cascades. This course provides motivated beginning climbers with the intensive hands on experience necessary to move safely and efficiently over a wide diversity of climbing terrain. Completion of this course helps prepare climbers for participation on climbs such as Ama Dablam, Denali, the Polish Glacier Route on Aconcagua and many more challenging ascents in the Cascades and in the greater ranges of the world.

Client/Guide Ratio 4:1

Climbing Grade: Beginner

2009 Dates (13-days):

• May 31-June12
• June 28-July 10
• August 2-14
• August 30-September 11

Cost: $2,325

Download Equipment List

Course curriculum includes:

• Face, crack, and slab rock climbing technique, and multi-pitch alpine rock climbing
  
• Belay techniques, rappelling, and rope management
  
• Rock, snow and ice anchor selection, anchor construction, equalization, and use of intermediate protection for lead climbing
  
• Moderate and steep snow and ice climbing, crampon usage techniques, and proper application of combined skills in a variety of terrain
  
• Ice axe positioning, self arrest, and balance positioning
  
• Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
  
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  
• Crevasse self-rescue techniques (prussiking) and team crevasse rescue techniques
  
• Navigation using map, compass, and altimeters
  
• Hazard assessment including: discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards, assessment of avalanche danger, crevasse fall, rock and ice fall dangers
  
• Discussions will include proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, efficient, safe and self-dependent climbing techniques, and Leave No Trace ethics
  

Included in Cost: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

Not Included in Cost: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

Qualifications: Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. in your pack.

Course Itinerary:

Day 1: 7:00 a.m. orientation. After an initial meeting and equipment check we drive to Leavenworth’s sunny Icicle Canyon where our rock climbing instruction begins. We start with a review of your rock climbing equipment, knots, proper belaying techniques and signals required for the day’s top-rope climbing. We will start with friction climbing to develop your balance and then incorporate both face and crack climbing techniques, before progressing to more challenging climbs. In the afternoon, placement of rock protection, top-rope set-up, rappel anchors, and rope management will round out the day’s activities.

Day 2: The second day will continue with more rock climbing on a diversity of climbs and a review of the previous day’s lessons. Students will receive an introduction to the practice and application of lead climbing. This will include more practice with the placement and evaluation of removable and fixed protection, equalizing anchors, lead climbing strategy, equipment selection and multi-pitch climbing.

Day 3: After an early rise, we drive to the Blue Lake trailhead and begin the 2 mile approach up to the base of the Early Winter Spires. Our first route in this impressive complex of massive spires and granite faces is up the South Arête of the South Spire (5-4). This is a great introductory multi-pitch alpine rock climb with a spectacular summit! This 600-foot climb follows a blocky arête where climbers stem, chimney, friction, and hand jam their way to the summit. Exposed down-climbing and a series of short and long rappels bring us down from the summit. After our descent to the trailhead we head back to our campground or down into Mazama for some food!

Day 4: We head back up to Washington Pass for some more classic ‘alpine cragging’! Today we tackle one of the great Cascades rock routes, the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell, the massive 7,720 foot spire which captivates the imagination of every climber who looks up at its granite faces. The route Fred Beckey scouted in 1946, and the route we ascend, follows a series of chimneys, crack systems and slabs for 400 feet up the Southwest face. From the summit we can look across to the summits of the Early Winter Spires, the Wine Spires, Cutthroat Peak, Kangaroo Ridge, distant snow covered volcanoes, and dream of alpine routes yet to be climbed. After down climbing and rappelling, we descend the Blue Lakes Trail and head west toward our glacier mountaineering objective.

Day 5: After breakfast we head to the trailhead and begin our hike to base camp. The hike to base camp is very strenuous and can take 4-7 hours depending upon the particular approach and the fitness of the group. (This is where all of your training pays off!) We trek through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and eventually snow covered areas en route to our high camp. After setting up base camp, we perform an equipment review, discuss Leave No Trace camping techniques, and discuss the fragile ecology of the alpine zone. If time allows, we hold a brief snow school covering the use of ice axes and snow climbing techniques.

Day 6: Following breakfast, we hike to the glacier and continue learning snow-climbing techniques. Proper use of the ice axe, traveling in balance, self belay, and self-arrest will be covered. The afternoon is dedicated to teaching students the essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, knots, spacing of climbers, and rope management. We will also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. Students will get more practice placing pieces of snow protection and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create a “bomber” anchor. Students will then learn the foundation for crevasse rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. A multitude of realistic crevasse fall scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 7: Our groups will move to a high camp where the guides will lead a discussion of glacier camping skills. Day 6 provides students an additional opportunity to practice the crevasse rescue skills they learned the day before in addition to setting up and equalizing anchors in different snow conditions. An introduction to rappelling and steep snow and ice climbing will be presented with an emphasis on French, German, and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Finally, every student will practice self-crevasse rescue (prussiking). That evening, we will make final preparations for our summit attempt.

Day 8: After an early morning wake-up (1 a.m.) and a quick breakfast, we climb our way toward the summit. Today students apply the skills they have been practicing all week toward the ascent of a major glaciated peak. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit where you will be rewarded with awe-inspiring views. After basking in a sense of accomplishment and enjoying a snack, students will navigate and lead the team down to high camp in time for a hot lunch. We break camp and hike to the trailhead and head back to Seattle, arriving late in the evening.

Days 9 - 13: The next 5 days are dedicated toward the ascent(s) of one or more alpine peaks in the Cascades. Routes and mountains will be selected based upon students' ability level, interest, and route conditions. Potential itineraries could take students alpine cragging to the Washington Pass area where we can climb a series of routes on towering granite spires. Ascents of the classic Beckey Route on Liberty Bell (5.6) or the Northwest corner of South Early Winter Spire (5.9) are some of the routes we may choose. Climbers may then head back into the Cascades to tackle another alpine route such as the Fischer Chimneys on Mount Shuksan. This portion of the course allows students to have the opportunity to take a more active leadership role in trip planning, route finding, and climbing strategy.

Course Locations: This course is conducted in several areas of the Cascades. The Glacier School will be held on one of the following major glaciated peaks: Mount Baker, Mount Adams, Eldorado Peak, Mount Shuksan or Mount Daniel. Rock climbing is taught primarily in the Icicle Creek Canyon in Leavenworth or at Mt. Erie, along the Washington coast. Ascents of a variety of peaks in the North Cascades National Park area finish off the course.


Note on the Itinerary: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change due to weather, route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Particularly with the last 5 days of the course, we have built in a fair amount of flexibility in order to give trip leaders every opportunity to focus on styles of climbing which most interest students. The nature of this course involves traveling to various locations throughout the northern part of Washington State. During this travel time we may stop for restaurant meals, when necessary. Climbers should be aware that these meals are not included in the course cost.


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