2008 - 2009 Dates :

Option #1:School & Cayambe (12 days)
June 15-26, 2008
December 13-24, 2008
January 17 - 28, 2009

Option #2:School, Cayambe & Cotopaxi (15 days)
June 15-29, 2008
December 13-27, 2008
January 17 - 31, 2009

Option #3:School, Cayambe, Cotopaxi & Chimborazo (19 days);
June 15-July 3, 2008
December 13-31, 2008
January 17 - February 4, 2009

Land Cost:
Option #1: $3,250
Option #2: $3,595
Option #3: $3,975
(includes restaurant meals)


Client to Guide Ratio 5:1 for course; 2:1 or 3:1 for the ascents

Testimonials

Course curriculum includes:

· Snow climbing, ice axe positioning, and moving in balance
· Self arrest techniques
· Snow and ice anchor selection, construction, and equalization
· Ice climbing and crampon techniques
· Prussiking and team crevasse rescue practice
· Rappelling and rope management
· Glaciology and crevasse pattern prediction
· Navigation using maps, altimeters, and compasses
· Roped glacier travel and route finding through crevassed areas
· Mountain weather, alpine ecology, hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace Ethics
· High altitude physiology and other related expeditionary topics

Other Highlights:
· Ideal introductory level high altitude mountaineering
· Charming, historic hacienda stays
· Excellent cuisine
· One day ascents from huts
· Fascinating culture and friendly people
· Knowledgeable local and American guides

The mountains of Ecuador’s famous “Avenue of the Volcanoes” offers some of the finest mountaineering objectives in the Andes of South America and is set amid a fascinating cultural backdrop. For those with limited experience, this trip combines abundant learning opportunities with practical application of skills on 18,996 ft. Cayambe. For those with more time the opportunity to climb Cotopaxi, the highest active volcano in the world, and 20,700 ft. Chimborazo, Ecuador’s highest peak, offers a complete high altitude expedition experience. This popular course is designed for individuals aspiring to learn the fundamental skills of snow, ice, and glacier climbing. Our goal is to develop safe, self-reliant alpine climbers. With the comprehensive curriculum and some hands on expedition climbing this trip is one of our most rewarding South American adventures.

We begin our adventure in Ecuador with an orientation in Quito (9,400 ft.), the world's second highest capital after La Paz, Bolivia. The city lies in a gently sloping valley beneath peaks rising to 15,000 feet. We spend time exploring Quito and the colorful village of Otavalo, with its wonderful markets displaying handmade goods of the Otavalan Indians. The time spent shopping and additional hikes serves to acclimatize us before we depart to Cayambe. As an added attraction to this wonderful trip we will be staying in charming haciendas and enjoying the fine cuisine Ecuador offers its visitors.

Before the course begins and our ascent of the primary objective, 18,996 foot Cayambe, we acclimatize further with day hikes near Otovalo. We then journey to Cayambe where accessible glaciers offer an ideal learning environment. After four days of intensive instruction we climb this beautiful peak.

For those that continue with the optional extensions, the next climbing objective is the world's highest active volcano, Cotopaxi. The mountain stands at 19,348 feet in Ecuador's Eastern Cordillera and towers high above three other major peaks, Ruminahui (15,602 feet), Sincholagua (16,360 feet), and Quilindana (16,134 feet) and the paramo, an area reminiscent of the Scottish moors. We drive into Cotopaxi National Park, first passing through pine forests and then moving through drier and more open country. You will have the opportunity to see a wide variety of animals, such as wild horses, llamas, and an abundance of bird life. These and many other exciting species of mammals and birds inhabit this unique ecological zone.

From the paramo we will drive to 15,092 feet where we begin our travel by foot. A forty-five minute hike brings us to the Jose Ribas Hut (15,749 ft.) at the base of Cotopaxi. The following day we rest and prepare for our climb.

Leaving in the early morning hours, we begin our summit attempt on non-glaciated snow slopes to reach the glacial platform at 17,000 feet. As the morning progresses, we watch the sun rise over the low clouds that cover the parkland and tropical forests far below. To the north we will be treated to views of the heavily glaciated 18,714 ft. Antisana. After we rope up, we travel over more complex areas of the glacier, crossing snow bridges, skirting large crevasses, and ascending moderate terrain and various short, steep slopes to reach the summit cone. Once there, 35-40 degree snow slopes and a short ridge walk will bring us onto Ecuador's second highest summit. From the summit, you will be awarded with spectacular views of nine major equatorial peaks, the endless Amazon Basin, and Cotopaxi's 1,000 ft. deep, active crater.

After our summit we spend a relaxing night at a nearby hotel. Following our climb we then drive south to Chimborazo and the lower of two huts. The following day we hike up to the Whymper hut to an elevation of 16,405 feet. From here we will be able to attempt the summit of Ecuador’s highest peak of 20,703 feet! Chimborazo is a tremendous, five-summitted mountain that rises almost 11,000 feet above the central valley. It is actually the highest point in the world from the center of the earth due to the equatorial bulge. It can be seen from Colombia to the north, Peru to the south, and from far out in the Pacific Ocean.

Chimborazo is a volcanic peak, and its various faces offer many challenges to climbers. Our route, the West Face, is moderately steep and, although the climb on this route is not considered technical, the diversity of climbing techniques used, as well as the peak's great height, make it an incredibly rewarding ascent. You will have a great sense of accomplishment as you stand on top and enjoy the incredible views!

Our Four and Seven Day Extensions:
For those that continue with the extensions, the next climbing objective is the world's highest active volcano, Cotopaxi. The mountain stands at 19,348 feet in Ecuador's Eastern Cordillera and towers high above an area of altiplano reminiscent of the Scottish moors and three other major peaks, Ruminahui (15,602 feet), Sincholagua (16,360 feet), and Quilindana (16,134 feet). We drive into Cotopaxi National Park, first passing through pine forests and then moving through drier and more open country. You will have the opportunity to see a wide variety of animals, such as wild horses, llamas, and an abundance of bird life. These and many other exciting species of mammals and birds inhabit this ecological zone commonly referred to as the paramo.

From the paramo we will drive to 15,092 feet where we begin our travel by foot. A forty-five minute hike brings us to the Jose Ribas Hut (15,749 ft.) at the base of Cotopaxi. The following day we rest and prepare for our climb.

Leaving in the early morning hours, we begin our summit attempt on non-glaciated snow slopes to reach the glacial platform at 17,000 feet. As the morning progresses, we watch the sun rise over the low clouds that cover the parkland and tropical forests far below. To the north we will be treated to views of the heavily glaciated 18,714 ft. Antisana. After we rope up, we travel over more complex areas of the glacier, crossing snow bridges, skirting large crevasses, and ascending moderate terrain and various short, steep slopes to reach the summit cone. Once at the cone, 35-40 degree snow slopes and a short ridge walk will bring us onto Ecuador's second highest summit. From the summit, you will be awarded with spectacular views of nine major equatorial peaks, the endless Amazon Basin, and Cotopaxi's 1,000 ft. deep, active crater.

After our summit and a relaxing night at the Hotel La Cienega, we will drive south to Chimborazo and the lower of two huts. The following day we hike up to the Whymper hut to an elevation of 16,405 feet. From here we will be able to attempt the summit of Ecuador's highest peak of 20,703 feet! Chimborazo is a tremendous, five-summitted mountain that rises almost 11,000 feet above the central valley. It is actually the highest point in the world from the center of the earth due to the equatorial bulge. It can be seen from Colombia to the north, from Peru to the south, and from far out in the Pacific Ocean. Chimborazo is a volcanic peak, and its various faces offer many challenges to climbers. Our route, the West Face, is moderately steep and, although the climb on this route is not considered technical, the diversity of climbing techniques used, as well as the peak's great height, make it an incredibly rewarding ascent. You will have a great sense of accomplishment as you stand on top and enjoy the incredible views!

Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. Meals provided are listed as B,L, and D at the end of each day. You will be responsible for those meals not listed while in towns and cities. All meals in the mountains will be provided.

Cost includes:
· Scheduled hotel nights while in towns
· Food while on the mountain
· Park fees
· Group climbing and cooking gear
· Scheduled group restaurant meals
· Hut fees
· Airport transfers

Cost does not include:
· Airfare
· Personal equipment
· Staff/guide gratuities
· Trip and medical evacuation insurance
· Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
· Items of a personal nature p(hone calls, laundry, room service, etc.)

QUALIFICATIONS: Previous mountaineering experience is not required. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip.

TRAINING PROGRAM: We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack. The best training for mountaineering is to carry a weighted pack (40 lbs.) up and down hills or small mountains. Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning.

WEATHER: Be prepared for a wide range of temperatures from freezing nights, to snow and windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.

FOOD: Mountain Madness provides all of the food while climbing and at the huts, but bring along your favorite munchies.

TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.

QUESTIONS: Call our office at 1-800-328-5925 or visit our website for more general information about Ecuador.

HOW TO SIGN UP: Complete and send in an application and a deposit either by mail or fax to reserve a spot. Applications can be found in the middle of our brochure or on our website. Applications can be mailed to Mountain Madness at 4218 SW Alaska St. #206 Seattle, WA 98116, or be faxed to 206-937-1772.

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Day 1: Arrive in Ecuador, orientation in Quito, overnight in hotel.

Day 2: City tour, equipment check, and possible hike above Quito, overnight at Hacienda Pinsaqui.

Day 3: Travel to town of Otavalo to visit its colorful markets, afternoon hike to Lake Cuicocha, overnight at Hotel Pinsaqui.

Day 4: Acclimatiazation hike and Hacienda Guachala.

Day 5: Begin instruction on Cayambe. Overnight at the Hacienda Guachala.

Day 6: Return to Cayambe. After getting situated we hike to the glacier and begin learning snow climbing techniques. Proper use of the ice axe, traveling in balance, self-belay, and self-arrest will all be covered. The afternoon is dedicated to teaching students the essential skills of glacier travel, such as navigation and route finding, glaciology, hazard assessment, knots, spacing of climbers, and rope management. We will also begin learning about placing various types of snow protection for use in the construction of snow anchors, belay techniques, and crevasse rescue. Overnight in the hut for the next four nights.

Day 7: An introduction to rappelling and steep snow and ice climbing will be presented with an emphasis on French, German, and American hybrid styles of crampon technique. Every student will also learn and practice self-crevasse rescue (prussiking).

Day 8: Our main focus for today is crevasse rescue. Students will get more practice placing pieces of snow protection and bollards and will then learn to equalize them to create a “bomber” anchor. Students will then learn the fundamentals of rescue pulley systems and then move on to more advanced pulley systems. A variety of scenarios will be addressed. We will conclude the day with a discussion of the mountain environment and methods of evaluating subjective and objective hazards.

Day 9: Today will include instruction in lead climbing on technical ice and an additional opportunity for students to review skills. In the afternoon we will make final preparations for our climb of Cayambe.

Day 10: After an early morning departure, we will climb up the crevassed slopes of the glacier. After 9 to 10 hours we will come to the summit of Cayambe at 18,997 feet. We then descend to Hacienda Guachala for the night.

Day 11: Today will be an optional summit day and return to Quito.

Day 12: Fly home for “course only” participants.

For those participating in the Cotopaxi and Chimborazo Extension:

Day 12: Today we will take the scenic drive to Cotopaxi National Park, overnight.

Day 13: After driving to approximately 15,092 feet we take a short 45-minute hike to Jose Ribas’ hut where we rest and prepare for our climb.

Day 14: Summit Cotopaxi. We will depart at 1 a.m. and hike up the scree slopes until we arrive at the glacier. From here we ascend snow and ice, arriving at a steep section just below the crater rim. After ascending this short section, we arrive at the summit where we can peer into the mountain’s crater or enjoy the view of the countryside and Chimborazo, our final objective. We spend the night at a hotel.

Day 15: Fly Home, or: Arrive at the lower hut on Chimborazo and enjoy a relaxing dinner. B, L

Day 16: Hike to the upper hut. Rest and prepare for summit attempt.

Day 17: Climb Chimborazo. Leaving at midnight we will hike up the scree slopes until reaching the glacier. After a couple of steep sections on the glacier, we will arrive at the false summit. From there it is about an hour climb to the highest point in Ecuador. After enjoying the views, we descend to the hut for the night. Optional hotel night if desired – not included in cost.
 
Days 18: Extra summit day. If the team summits on day 17 there is the possibility of visiting the cloud forests of western Ecuador. Hotel night in Quito. B, L, D

Day 19: Fly home.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.

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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in Quito, trekking in the humidity and heat, and to protect you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this trek and are the minimum required for this trip. You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list

The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!

The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.

Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.

Mountain Madness guides and staff swears by Patagonia gear and we know that you will too. Besides having a strong commitment to the environment, Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia. Find out what makes them "committed to the core."

Another company that we believe follows our two simple tenets (lightweight and functional) is Outdoor Research. Founded in the NW, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check Our Links page for a direct link.

Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.

We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle. They will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit www.featheredfriends.com

Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 3 regular carabiners Light weight BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash Light weight (i.e. Grivel Air tech or Black Diamond Raven) under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic mountaineering boots
__ Crampons Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12
__ Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ 1 Equipment sling 1” tubular webbing approx. 6’ long
__ Perlon cord 30 feet of 5-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material, do not cut prior to trip!
__ Adjustable trekking poles optional

Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 1 long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days.
__ 2 women sports bras Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 1 soft shell Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable).
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable.
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 down parka with hood.
__1 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not loose your mittens in high winds.

Head gear
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic that cover your ears.
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap

Lower Body
__ 1 pair nylon pants Good for trekking or around camp
__ 2 pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 3 pair heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 pair soft shell pants Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics
__ 1 pair nylon shorts Running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ 1 pair hard shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ Light hiking shoes or trail shoes For the hike to base camp and acclimatization hikes
__ 1 pair sandals optional

All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags

Sleeping Gear
__ Sleeping bag Rated to at least 10-20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
__ Sleeping pad 1 full length closed cell foam and/or ? length Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort

Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 4500-5000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
__ 1 large duffle bag (7,500+ cu.in.) for gear, include small padlock
__ 1 small duffel for leaving extra gear at the hotel

Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe) *
__ Personal first aid kit See page 10
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini
__ 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Plastic mug With snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type.
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
__ 3-4 Large plastic bags For keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos Optional
__ Favorite snack foods No more than 2 pounds!
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
__ Binoculars Optional for viewing the route from the lower camps
__ Camera Optional, 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR types for the trek in and base camp
__ Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos
__ Airline ticket

* If you require prescription glacier glasses, you get your lenses modified to your prescription. Julbo Sherpas glacier glasses works great for prescription lenses. Send the glasses to Opticus along with your PD number with your order. Their number is 1-800 870-5557 get these with your prescription


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