2011 Dates :(16 Days)
TBA

Land Cost* :
$3,575

* Price includes scheduled restaurant meals and porters.

Client to guide ratio 4:1


Climbing Grade: Intermediate

The mountains of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru contain some of the greatest vertical relief to be found outside the Himalayas and offer climbing challenges equal to those found in the great ranges of the world. The Cordillera Blanca is located in the Ancash region of Peru, about 400 km to the northeast of Lima. The range is one portion of the 7,500 km Andean chain that runs along the west coast of South America. The Cordillera Blanca contain more than 300 summits and the world's highest tropical mountains (more than 27 over 6,000 meters), and are considered by many the most beautiful range in the Andes. Elegant corniced ridges, delicately fluted ice faces, emerald green lakes and inviting valleys make it a climbers paradise.

This classic expedition is well suited to advanced/beginner-intermediate climbers, especially those with future goals on the bigger peaks of the Himalayas. We will warm up on Nevado Yanapaccha and then climb the eastern most peak in the Huascaran Massif, the beautifully fluted Nevado Chopakalki.
 
From a central base camp near stunning turquoise lakes in the spectacular Llanganuco Valley we establish multiple camps on the way to the summit of each of these peaks. Both climbs offer moderate glacier climbing challenges with occasional route finding difficulties through crevassed areas and just enough steep snow and ice sections to keep things interesting for strong beginner-intermediate level climbers. Our route on Yanapaccha is ascended from a high camp at about 16,000 feet where we also have time to review skills and even get some ice climbing practice on nearby seracs. The route is less traveled than the popular Pisco and offers more interesting climbing, including two steep pitches to the airy summit. Yanapaccha affords us fantastic views of the Cordillera Blanca, as well as a tantalizing glimpse of our main objective. The classic west ridge of Chopakalki, which means "situated half within" in the local Quechua dialect in reference to its location halfway between the Ulta and Llanganuco valleys, provides climbers with occasional sections of 55-degree snow/ice and is one of the finest objectives in the range.

Two languages are spoken in the region, Spanish and Quechua. The indigenous Quechua people, whose ancestry can be traced directly to the Incas, continue to weave intriguing tales and myths around the mountains of the Cordillera Blanca and live in the shadows of the Andes practicing subsistence farming and animal husbandry much as their ancestors did. This rich cultural backdrop offers interesting glimpses into the past and one of South America's most important cultural vestiges, the vast Inca Empire, and adds immensely to the overall experience of climbing in Peru and one of the great ranges of the world.


Recommended extensions: There are several extensions that you may consider, either as a great way to acclimatize before the climbing begins or as a way to relax after your climbs.

•For those interested in Inca culture, 3-6 day excursions to the Inca Trail, Machu Picchu and Cusco, the ancient capital city of the Incas are available.
•Technical ice climb of Alpamayo (19,512ft) following Chopakalki (8 days) 

Included in cost:
- Scheduled hotel nights
- Food while on the mountain
- Park Fees
- Group climbing and cooking gear
- Scheduled restaurant meals
- Porters
- Ground transportation to the mountains and while in the Cordillera Blanca

Not included in cost:
- Airfare
- Personal equipment
- Staff/guide gratuities
- Alcoholic beverages
- Trip Insurance
- Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
- Hotels in Lima and transfer to airport for return flight home

QUALIFICATIONS: We do suggest that you have some previous mountaineering experience prior to joining us for the Chopakalki Expedition. Climbers are expected to know the basic mountaineering skills and preferably have some experience at high altitudes, but this is not required. Completing a Mountain Madness Six-Day School is an excellent way to prepare for this trip, in addition to the Mexico or Ecuador Volcanoes trips.

QUESTIONS: Call our office anytime or email us at 1-800-328-5925 if you have more specific questions about the trip.

Itinerary for Yanpaccha and Nevado Chopakalki

Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. Meals provided are listed as b,l, and d at the end of each day. You will be responsible for those meals not listed while in towns and cities. All meals in the mountains will be provided. Porters will be provided on those days listed in the itinerary.

Day 1: Fly to Miami for connecting flight to Lima, Peru.

Day 2: Travel to Huaraz.  Hotel Night

Day 3: Today we visit the colorful market to purchase fresh fruits and vegetables for our first climb on Pisco. We will also visit Lake Churup above Huaraz. b,l,d

Day 4: After taking care of last minute preparations we will drive 2-3 hours to Cebolla Pampa, base camp for Pisco. Base camp elevation is about 12,000 feet and located in the Quebrada Llanganuco above the turquoise waters of two beautiful lakes. From base camp we will take a short day hike. b

Day 5: Today we continue our process of acclimatization with a hike to Portachuelo de Llanagunco, a 15,000 pass above Cebolla Pampas with incredible views of Chopakalki, Huascaran, Pisco, the Huandoy group and many other peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

Day 6: Hike to Yanapaccha camp at 4,900 meters. Review skills.

Day 7: Acclimatize, review skills, and ice climb on glacier.

Day 8: Summit day. Yanapaccha will help us acclimatize, as well as provide us with an opportunity to polish our skills for our next climb. After an early morning departure we arrive at the summit and then return to our camp for the night.

Day 9: Return to base camp where we rest and prepare for our ascent of Chopakalki.

Day 10: Today we move to the Moraine Camp (Camp 1) located at about 16,075 feet. This will be a porter-assisted day.

Day 11: After moving through the moraine above camp1 we rope and climb on the glacier to our high camp (Camp 2) at about 17,056 feet. An early dinner then its time to rest for the early wake up.

Day 12-13: There are two days reserved for the summit climb. Relatively straightforward glacier travel leads to the saddle between Chopakalki and the elegant east ridge of Huascaran Sur. From the saddle glacier slopes interspersed with short, steep sections (up to 60 degrees) lead to the wildly corniced and fluted summit. This is an incredible day! Return to either high camp or the Moraine Camp.

Day 14: Return to Huaraz for some much needed rest and relaxation. We will be treated to a traditional Peruvian dinner and dancing. l,d

Day 15-16: Return to Lima and home. b


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CHOPAKALKI EQUIPMENT LIST

Mountain Madness believes that all mountain travel equipment should follow two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Lightweight equipment increases your chance of success and helps make you more comfortable. Functional equipment determines how warm, dry, and safe you will be, so always choose equipment that is of good quality, is dependable, and is adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions.

Clothing impacts not only your comfort but also your safety. Always be critical of the quality and the proper fit of your clothing. Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin.

Our recommended clothing system has four layers.
 Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (Polypro, capilene, driclime)
 Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well. The main Softshell fabrics are Polartec Wind Pro, Gore Windstopper N2S, Schoeller and each clothing manufacturer has their own.  200 weight fleece can be substituted for our Soft Shell recommendations but is not as versatile on how it may be used when layering.
 Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable.  (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
 Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)

These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.

Mountain Madness guides swear by Outdoor Research gear and we know you will, too. OR produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Born in the Northwest, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to OR.

For used, new or rental equipment try these two retailers. Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810 or visit http://www.secondascent.com . We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle which also rents gear, and both shops will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit http://www.featheredfriends.com

Pack
 1 large capacity internal frame (4,500-5,000 cubic capacity) Not required for some international trips, please call to confirm.
 1 summit pack, lightweight as possible with about 2500 cubic inch capacity

Climbing Gear
 Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
 2 locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
 3 regular carabiners
 Ice axe w/leash Light weight is best. Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
 Plastic mountaineering boots/ or double leather hybrid boots.  Call the office to confirm.
 Crampons Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type recommended.
 Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
 Perlon cord. 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material, do not cut prior to trip!
 Adjustable trekking poles

Upper Body
 Polypropylene T-shirt.
 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt. Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
 Sports bras. Two, synthetic, no cotton!
 Wind shirt or Soft Shell jacket Patagonia super guide jacket for example. 
 Down/synthetic jacket  Patagonia Puffball Jacket or equivalent
 Shell jacket with hood. Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
 2 pair liner gloves. Thin fleece or windstopper
 1 pair warm gloves 1 pair gloves , fleece or wool with water resistant shell.
 1 pair shell mitts. Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry.  Call OR for more details -
 Warm hat. Wool or synthetic
 Balaclava
 Shade hat or baseball cap
 1 neck warmer/ gator (optional)
 1 change of city clothes for going to dinner/travel days. Casual is fine.

Lower Body
 2 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
 3 pair heavy wool socks. Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
 2 pair long underwear bottoms (1 pr. lightweight and 1 pair med. or expedition wt.)
 1 pair Softshell pants. . (i.e., Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
 1 pair nylon shorts. For July/Aug. Running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
 Shell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
 Gaiters. Tall, to just below knee. Make sure they fit over plastic boots. OR Crocodiles or equivalent is best.
 Light hiking boots or trail shoes.
 1 pair sandals (optional)
 1 change of city clothes for going to dinner/travel days. Casual is fine.

All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags

Sleeping gear
 1 down or synthetic expedition quality sleeping bag (rated from 0 - 15 degrees Fahrenheit)
 Sleeping pad therm-a-rest or closed cell foam (not required for many international trips, please call to confirm) 

Miscellaneous
 *Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe)
 Personal first aid kit. Basics: moleskin / blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc.
 Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
 Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
 Headlamp (Include extra batteries)
 Water bottles. Two 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene
 Hydration bladder.  These may freeze on summit day, so bring Nalgenes also!
 2 water bottle insulators
 Mug. Plastic w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
 Bowl and spoon. Required only for Chimborazo extension.
 Pocket knife. Small Swiss-Army type
 Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
 Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
 Large plastic bags. 2  for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
 Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection)
 Bandanas. One or two
 1 large duffel bag with more than 7,000 cubic inch capacity (must be durable)
 small padlock for duffel bag
 ear plugs
 hand wipes and/or alcohol gel for sanitizing hands.
 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional, good for Chimborazo extension)
 GU or other Carbohydrate gel: 6 to 12 packs
 Snacks and/or munchies. Bring your favorite snack for use on summit day
 Camera. Optional, large SLR types are not recommended

* If you require prescription glacier glasses, you get your lenses modified to your prescription. Julbo Sherpas glacier glasses works great for prescription lenses. Send the glasses to Opticus along with your PD number with your order. Their number is 1-800 870-5557 get these with your prescription



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