2010 Dates (15 days):
to be announced- call for details


Land Cost*:
$3,350 (3 or more climbers)


* Price includes restaurant meals and porters.

Client to guide ratio 4:1


Climbing Grade: Intermediate

Situated high above the mystical waters of Lake Titicaca in the Bolivian Andes, the Cordillera Real, the Royal Range, is an exceptional world class destination for mountaineers of all skill levels. Although the Bolivian Andes are similar to the mountains of Peru and the Himalayas in beauty and climbing opportunities, the lofty summits of the Cordillera Real are more accessible. The stunning peaks of the Ancohuma Massif are no exception. Our two day approach through terraced fields, rolling hills and glacier polished granite slabs leads to our lakeside base camp at Laguna Glacier. Three mighty glaciers converge here from the multiple 6,000 meter (19,686 feet) peaks that tower overhead.

With more than thirty peaks rising over 5,000 meters (16,000 feet) this complex massif contains some of the Cordillera Real’s highest and most difficult peaks. It is one of the most remote areas in the Cordillera Real - a real gem for those looking to get away from the traditional, more popular areas in the range. For many years cartographers exploring the region put Ancohuma’s elevation at over 23,000 feet, a height that would not only give it the distinction of being the highest peak in South America, but also the loftiest in the Western Hemisphere! These days the peak measures in at 21,095 foot, an elevation that still ranks it amongst the highest in Bolivian Andes. But, its heavily glaciated slopes and the incredible peaks surrounding it, such as Pico Schultz and Illampu, make Ancohuma among the most beautiful.

After our group arrives in La Paz we enjoy several excursions that will contribute to the acclimatization process. We begin with a visit to one of Bolivia’s most significant archeological sites, the Tiwanaka ruins, an ancient city that offers an excellent example of this pre-Inca culture. On the Island of the Sun in Lake Titicaca we visit Inca sites where we marvel at the local people’s traditional way of life that indeed resembles that of their Inca ancestors of more than four hundred years ago. From the small lakeside town of Copacabana we then travel to Sorata. This small town, considered by many to have the most scenic setting in all of Bolivia, sits at an elevation of 8,840 feet, slightly above the vast Bolivian cloud forest yet low enough to enjoy a pleasant climate. As we make final preparations for the expedition, we enjoy the laid-back ambience of this once viable town that at various times was an important center in the gold, coca, quinine and rubber industries.

The two day porter and pack animal supported trek into base camp allows for further acclimatization. For the next six days our team will make attempts from this base camp located next to a serene alpine lake at over 15,000 feet and surrounded by the extraordinary peaks of the Ancohuma Massif. Our climbing objectives of Pico Schultz and Ancohuma are well suited for experienced beginners with some mountaineering background to intermediate level climbers. The chosen routes have been selected for their safety, access, and interesting climbing on glaciated slopes up to 45 degrees. After an acclimatization ascent on Pico Schultz Este we move on to the glaciers of Ancohuma and establish a high camp before our summit climb. From the summit, incredible views of the surrounding peaks, some of the most impressive of the range, await the team.

Recommended Extensions: There are several extensions that you may consider, either as a great way to acclimatize before the climbing begins or as a way to relax after your climbs. For those interested in Inca culture, 3-6 day excursions to the Inca Trail, Machu Picchu and Cusco, the ancient capital city of the Incas are available. For diversity, we offer the 10 day Trans Andean trek over the Cordillera Real and into the Yungas, a lush region of cloud forests. For jungle adventure the Madidi Reserve is one of the most biologically rich areas on the planet! Let us know if you are interested in an extension.

Included in cost:
- Scheduled hotel nights
- Food while on the mountain
- Park Fees
- Group climbing and cooking gear
- Scheduled restaurant meals while in Bolivia
- Porters and pack animals · Airport transfer to hotel

Not included in cost:
- Airfare
- Personal equipment
- Staff/ guide gratuities
- Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
- Airport transfer for the flight home
- Airport taxes
- Trip and medical/ rescue insurance
- Alcoholic beverages

QUALIFICATIONS: The Mountain Madness six-day mountaineering course in the Cascades, or comparable, is a perfect way to prepare for this expedition. High altitude experience is strongly recommended (such as the Mexico or Ecuador Volcanoes trips) but not required.
TRAINING PROGRAM: This trip is physically demanding and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.

WEATHER: Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically have the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights and snowy, windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.

FOOD: Mountain Madness is renowned for providing gourmet mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trailhead and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated and fresh foods. Bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking.

TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses, and emergency assistance. A applications are provided with all trip bookings.

MEDICAL AND EVACUATION INSURANCE: If your insurance policy does not cover international travel and mountaineering expeditions you will receive policy information with your booking that we strongly recommend you consider.

GENERAL INFORMATION: This trip is subject to the booking information on the Mountain Madness Trip Application. We urge you to read this information carefully and to call us if you have any questions.

QUESTIONS: Call our office anytime at 1-800-328-5925 or email us if you have more specific questions about the trip.

Make it happen!

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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in Quito, trekking in the humidity and heat, and to protect you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this trek and are the minimum required for this trip. You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list

The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!

The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.

Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.

Mountain Madness guides and staff swears by Patagonia gear and we know that you will too. Besides having a strong commitment to the environment, Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia. Find out what makes them "committed to the core."

Another company that we believe follows our two simple tenets (lightweight and functional) is Outdoor Research. Founded in the NW, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check Our Links page for a direct link.

Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.

We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle. They will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit www.featheredfriends.com

Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 3 regular carabiners Light weight BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash Light weight (i.e. Grivel Air tech or Black Diamond Raven) under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic mountaineering boots
__ Crampons Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12
__ Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ 1 Equipment sling 1” tubular webbing approx. 6’ long
__ Perlon cord 30 feet of 5-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material, do not cut prior to trip!
__ Adjustable trekking poles optional

Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 1 long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days.
__ 2 women sports bras Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 1 soft shell Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable).
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable.
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 down parka with hood.
__1 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not loose your mittens in high winds.

Head gear
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic that cover your ears.
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap

Lower Body
__ 1 pair nylon pants Good for trekking or around camp
__ 2 pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 3 pair heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 pair soft shell pants Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics
__ 1 pair nylon shorts Running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ 1 pair hard shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ Light hiking shoes or trail shoes For the hike to base camp and acclimatization hikes
__ 1 pair sandals optional

All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags

Sleeping Gear
__ Sleeping bag Rated to at least 10-20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
__ Sleeping pad 1 full length closed cell foam and/or ? length Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort

Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 4500-5000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
__ 1 large duffle bag (7,500+ cu.in.) for gear, include small padlock
__ 1 small duffel for leaving extra gear at the hotel

Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe) *
__ Personal first aid kit See page 10
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini
__ 2 water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Plastic mug With snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type.
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
__ 3-4 Large plastic bags For keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos Optional
__ Favorite snack foods No more than 2 pounds!
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
__ Binoculars Optional for viewing the route from the lower camps
__ Camera Optional, 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR types for the trek in and base camp
__ Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos
__ Airline ticket

* If you require prescription glacier glasses, you get your lenses modified to your prescription. Julbo Sherpas glacier glasses works great for prescription lenses. Send the glasses to Opticus along with your PD number with your order. Their number is 1-800 870-5557 get these with your prescription




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