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ECUADOR AND THE AVENUE OF THE VOLCANOES
  Imagine you have just spent the last six hours climbing in the darkest hours of the night on the equatorial glaciers of 20,700-foot Chimborazo. Flashes of lightning far off in the distance eerily illuminate the scene as you climb through the night. After all your labors you finally arrive on the summit. On top you are greeted by the morning sun and magnificent views of some of the more than 30 volcanoes that dot the landscape and rise far above the patchwork of fields where potatoes, corn, and a variety of other crops are grown by the various indigenous groups of Ecuador. To the east lies the jungle; its green wildness shrouded in mystery by the billowing clouds and rain that support one of the most complex natural systems in the world - the Amazon Basin. Later that day you could be there swinging in a hammock at one of the charming haciendas Mountain Madness groups enjoy, reveling in your ascent earlier that day to Ecuador's highest summit. Such are the wonders in store for visitors to this peaceful, very friendly country in South America.
Ecuador is a country of amazing diversity. Within its relatively small domain, an area slightly larger than Great Britain, there is an almost unparalleled treasure trove of biological richness. From the Galapagos Islands, made famous by Charles Darwin, to the coastal mangrove swamps and scrub forests, and upward to the mysterious "cloud forests," there is enough to capture the imagination for a lifetime, and this all before you have even explored the highlands and mountains, let alone the Amazon Basin.
Travel in Ecuador is relatively simple and inexpensive compared to trips to the Himalayas or Africa. Best of all it's only a one-day flight away! Unlike the large expenditures of time and money involved for trips to Asia or Africa, trips to Ecuador can be made in two weeks at comparatively low costs. Perhaps the main attraction for climbers looking for an introduction to high altitude mountaineering are straightforward climbs to high places. There probably is not a better, more interesting place than Ecuador to gain some hands on experience.
For the mountaineer with limited time, Ecuador is a perfect short excursion. After landing in the beautiful, high colonial city of Quito and bargaining at the Otavalo market, we begin our ascent of Ecuador's three highest volcanoes.
We venture along the Avenue of Volcanoes, through Ecuador's
countryside, to acclimatize on Pichincha (15,400 feet),
allowing time to visit colorful marketplaces and native
villages. While climbing the beautiful Cayambe, Cotopaxi,
and Chimborazo, we encounter glacier travel, 35-40 degree
snow and ice slopes, and beautiful ridges.
The Ecuador Volcanoes trip offers the very best of a wonderful country: spectacular mountains, diverse terrain, and a variety of climbing situations. Ask about our extension to Galapagos for a journey into prehistoric times.
THE CLIMBS WITH MOUNTAIN MADNESS
Up until the 1820s Chimborazo was believed to be the highest point in the world. As a result it was the focal point for many expeditions of the time. The French, Italians, Germans, and English went to conquer and even the famous Venezuelan liberator, Simon Bolivar, mounted an assault in 1822 that led him only to the snowline. However, in 1882 the renowned Englishman, Edward Whymper, reached the summit of Chimborazo during the same trip that he bagged Ecuador's second highest peak, the 19,348 foot Cotopaxi. Travelling overland by foot from the coast Whymper experienced great hardship to just reach the peaks! It took him weeks just to reach the Avenue of the Volcanoes and then with many failed attempts. His adventures, and eventual success, can be read in his book, "Travels Amongst the Great Andes of the Equator."
These days ascents of Ecuador's three highest summits
can be made in a mere two weeks with almost all the comforts
of home. With more than a decade of experience in the
country Mountain Madness has created an ideal itinerary
that incorporates a carefully developed acclimatization
program, comfortable and unique lodging, excellent cuisine,
and highly skilled guides.
After a period of acclimatization hiking we begin our
climbs from the relative comfort of mountain huts. With
the exception of the 45 minute hike to the huts on Cotopaxi
and the upper hut on Chimborazo where we carry about 50
pounds in our packs, our climbs are made in one day from
huts which allow us to carry minimal equipment during
the ascents. Climbers on summit day will carry only about
15-25 pounds in their rucksacks. In short, participants
will be climbing big mountains without big packs - a significant
factor for those undertaking their first adventure to
high altitudes.
Chimborazo - At 20,703 feet this is Ecuador's highest
peak. Depending on conditions Mountain Madness groups
will ascend one of two routes on the magnificent western
flank of the peak. The direct route, the most commonly
used, and the Whymper route are relatively straightforward
glacier climbs. While never difficult, the 30-35 degree
slopes hold the climber's attention throughout the more
than 4,000 feet of elevation gain to the summit. From
the 16,400, Whymper Hut, our ascent follows a low angled
glacier ramp that leads to the long summit ridge. Here
we encounter a few short 40 degree snow/ice slopes (no
more than 100-300 feet in length) and groups typically
find themselves negotiating a few crevassed sections on
the upper slopes of the mountain. This is a long, difficult
day of 12-14 hours roundtrip.
Cotopaxi - This 19,348 foot peak is located in
beautiful Cotopaxi National Park, an area complete with
alpine lakes, pine forests, and the stark, desolate landscape
of the paramo. Standing in high isolation above the paramo
the striking cone-like perfection of this symmetrical
mountain strikes the climbers imagination. From the 15,750-foot
hut we ascend moderate glacier slopes to the summit. Along
the way, however, complex crevasse patterns and snowbridge
crossings over deep crevasses make the climb interesting.
After passing through a heavily crevassed area midway
through the climb, we reach the final summit slope. Here
a challenging section of 35-40 degree snow leads to the
abrupt finish of the climb on the crater rim of the world's
highest active volcano.
Cayambe - Good climbing and interesting glaciers
characterize our chosen route on this beautiful 18,997
foot mountain, the third highest in the country. With
easy access from a comfortable hut, the glaciers of Cayambe
offer an outstanding venue for our Mountaineering School.
Huge crevasses, complex icefalls, and seracs provide participants
the ideal setting for learning ice climbing, crevasse
rescue, and a variety of other fundamental skills. The
ascent of Cayambe follows diverse glacier terrain to near
the summit crater where often challenging route-finding
around a gaping bergshcrund provides an exciting climax
to the climb.
HISTORY
Ecuador, compared to other Andean countries such as Peru
and Colombia, is relatively stable in terms of politics
and its economy. With Texaco/Gulf's discovery of oil in
the late 1960s in the Amazon Basin, there came a strong
export commodity that secured the country a seat in OPEC.
Today oil remains the main economic force but bananas,
shrimp, and tourism are gaining momentum and will likely
surpass oil in importance as reserves run low and pressures
from both Ecuadorian and international conservation groups
prompt a halt to further exploration and development.
Although the common problems of corrupt politicians and overwhelming national debts typical of Latin American countries are found in Ecuador, drug trafficking and terrorism do not figure prominently. But, Ecuador does have a rich, somewhat violent, history, one full of tales of conquerors and the conquered.
In the not so distant past, some 500 years or so ago,
the Inca Empire began spreading its sphere of influence
northward from its capital of Cuzco, in Peru, into what
is known today as Ecuador. Conquered were various indigenous
groups, most notably the Carsas, whom were the dominant
force in the region before the Inca invasion. The Incas
made these groups subjects rather than killing them. Incorporated
into the machinery of empire building, these people worked
on the complex irrigation systems the Incas are famous
for, toiled in the fields, and helped build the transportation
network that became known as the Inca Road and linked
Cuzco to Quito. Ruins of the Inca Empire can still be
found throughout Ecuador.
 The most notable historical event, however, one that irrevocably changed the face of Ecuador, was the conquest of the Inca Empire in the 1530's. Enter the Spanish conquistadors. Arriving at an opportune time when a weakened Inca Empire was in the throes of civil war arising from the rivalry between the ruling brother Atahualpa and his half brother Huascar, the Spanish conquistador, Pizzaro, and his men had a relatively easy time of usurping the once powerful Incas.
In the ensuing years the colonial influences of Spain
were successfully imprinted on Ecuador and its people.
Agricultural output was increased, largely with the work
done by Indians, animals were domesticated, including
cuy (guinea pig), which is considered a national delicacy,
and urban centers grew in response to increased commerce
and as cultural nurturing grounds. Spain, of course, reaped
the bounty but unfortunately created in its wake an impoverished
group of native people and what has become a long standing
gap between the rich and the poor. Today indigenous uprisings
occasionally occur with a call for revolution, though
these have met with limited success.
Independence, however, never comes at a small price. Ecuador
itself was able to secede from Spain only with much bloodshed.
It was not achieved until 1822 at the famous Battle of
Pichincha that the people, under the leadership of Mariscal
Sucre, defeated the royalist forces. What emerged after
over 300 years of Spanish occupation was a unique blend
of European traditions and some of the vestiges of the
Inca Empire.
Today, for example, as you walk along the narrow cobblestone
streets of the old part of Quito you can see Spanish baroque
architecture built on the foundation of Inca stonework.
Catholicism is the dominant religion but is interwoven
with elements of Indian mythology. And across the country
you will find a population consisting of roughly 40% Indian,
many who speak Quechua or one of the other local language
stocks. The mestizos (mixed Spanish and Indian blood)
also make up about 40% of the population and are Spanish
speakers. This diversity remains intact and, as you can
imagine, offers an interesting backdrop for traveling
and climbing.
NATURAL HISTORY
In 1802 the German scientist, Alexander van Humboldt,
visited Ecuador and found a multitude of volcanic peaks,
some rising in almost perfect cone-shaped symmetry and
covered with heavy mantels of ice. On either side of what
became known as the Central Valley, wherein lies Quito,
there is a Cordillera (mountain range) trending north
to south along the approximately 250 mile long valley.
These ranges are known simply as the Eastern and Western
Cordilleras. Humboldt coined the name "Avenue of
the Volcanoes" for this valley and it is where you
will find mostly agricultural and ranching activities
and the majority of Ecuador's population outside the densely
populated port city of Guayaquil. It is also here that
you will be spending most of your time between climbs.
Similar to other developing countries in Asia and Latin
America where high mountains are found, many of the forests
found on the foothills beneath Ecuador's volcanoes have
been deforested. There is, however, a unique ecosystem
found only in the equatorial regions of tropical America.
Found roughly between 10 degrees north and south of the
equator and at elevations starting at about 3000 meters
the paramo is reminiscent of the Scottish highlands or
Arctic tundra. It is the habitat of many highly specialized
plants that began evolving about 60 million years ago
when the Nazca plate collided with the Continental plate
and resulted in the uplift of the Andes. These plants
adapted to the often extreme conditions of the paramo,
from the hot equatorial sun to the frequent strong winds,
snow, and rain that lash out over the landscape.
There is a wide variety of birds found in Ecuador. With luck you will see the Andean condor soaring high above the paramo. You may also sight some of the large mammals, such as the three species of deer, pumas, foxes, or the highly threatened Andean spectacled bear that wander throughout the highlands. With a rapidly increasing population the people of Ecuador have, out of necessity, moved onto marginal lands for agricultural purposes. Fortunately, the soils of the paramo are not suitable for agriculture and only occasionally is it used for grazing. Much of the paramo then is still intact - but it remains a fragile place, so we do our best to tread lightly and practice the ethics of "Leave No Trace."
CHARMING HACIENDAS AND ECUADORIAN CUISINE
Along with the great climbing, the food and lodging
during your trip are uniquely Ecuadorian and add immensely
to your experience. One of our first stops is the distinguished
Hacienda Cusin. Located roughly 90 minutes north of Quito,
the white walls and terra cotta tiles make for a beautiful
setting that has often been used to host visiting foreign
emissaries and prestigious political meetings. While awaiting
the preparation of a gourmet buffet lunch, we have an
opportunity to stroll through the amazing bougainvillea
and orchid filled gardens and courtyards surrounding the
estate. The living canopy above the walkways consists
of over 58 species of plants and attracts 49 species of
birds. Lunch selections often include a variety of fresh
local fruits, grilled trout, garlic chicken, and locro
de queso, a delicious thick soup topped with wedges of
fresh avocado and fresh local cheese. Throughout the trip
there is an excellent variety of these dishes, as well
as other typical Ecuadorian specialties.
En route to Cayambe, the colorful markets of Otavalo make
an excellent diversion to shop for some of the finest
Ecuadorian handicrafts. Not far from Otavalo is the historical
landmark of Hotel Pinsaqui. This colonial hacienda was
constructed in 1790 and was the site of an important treaty
signing between Ecuador and Colombia. Often frequented
by General Simon Bolivar, the historical significance
of this beautiful hacienda is evident throughout the 16
luxurious suites, 200-year-old gardens and chapel.
During the early acclimatization portion of the trip, our nights are spent at the comfortable farmhouse accommodations of Guachala. This estate is owned by the current governor of Cayambe province, Diego Bonifaz, who may sometimes be seen leading one of his favorite horses from the stables in preparation for a mid-morning ride around the grounds. The courtyard and hammocks by the covered poolroom make for nice places to relax after an acclimatization hike. Another wonderful destination in the northern highlands of Ecuador is Hosteria San Luis. The Spanish colonial architecture of this hacienda features rooms with private fireplaces and stunning views of Cayambe. The picturesque surroundings and variety of outdoor activities make San Luis a favorite spot to relax following a summit climb on the nearby volcano.
Following a climb of Cotopaxi, or en route to Chimborazo,
a good night's rest can be had at the four-century old
La Cienega. The entrance drive leads between two groves
of large eucalyptus trees to approach the grand entranceway
of this beautiful estate. From its intricately carved
and arched wooden chapel doors, to its well kept circular
gardens and colonial style halls, this estate should not
be missed when travelling through the central region of
the Avenue of the Volcanoes.
These are a few of the charming accommodations you will
enjoy during your expedition to Ecuador. And, as with
all Mountain Madness international adventures, we provide
restaurant meals along with your hotel stays. As a result
you can fully relax and enjoy the ambience and wonderful
food these haciendas provide.
WHEN TO GO
Along with the great diversity of landscapes, people,
plants, and animals, the weather in Ecuador is typical
of that found in the tropics, in other words, highly variable.
As the saying goes - the only thing that is predictable
about the weather is that it is unpredictable. As an equatorial
country Ecuador has little in the way of seasonal variation
and instead a somewhat indistinct wet season and a dry
season predominate. The weather in the mountains usually
changes dramatically during the course of a 24-hour period.
Nights are generally clear so ascents are made in the
early morning hours. By the afternoon, clouds build up
with snow or rain likely and thunderstorms are not at
all uncommon. Temperature range while in the mountains
can be extreme from below 0 F to what feels hot if the
equatorial sun is beating down on you.
WHAT OTHERS HAVE TO SAY ABOUT OUR TRIP TO ECUADOR
Thomas Hoeflinger
" After doing extensive trekking and climbing on my own, I was amazed to see just how unsafe and ill prepared I had been. The mountaineering course, so skillfully taught, has now allowed me a greater sense of confidence as I move onward to more technical and challenging climbs in the future. Thank you to the Mountain Madness Staff !"
Mike Padden
" Making the summit of Cayambe was a personal accomplishment for me. I would go back to Ecuador tomorrow to do more climbing if it was possible. I have been on a few climbs and have never seen a group (team) work as well together as ours did."
As winter approaches and you think of places to escape
Ecuador stands out as a worthwhile destination. If you
want to travel light, spend comparatively little money,
go to high altitudes, and enjoy rich culture and friendly
people, Ecuador, is the place.
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