2009 Dates:
December 6-14

with Chimborazo (13 days); December 6-18

2010 Dates:
January 9-17
July 3-11
November 20-28
with Chimborazo (13 days); January 9-21
July 3-15
November 20-December 2


Land Cost*: $2,175;
with Chimborazo extension $3,275 (mimimum two climbers)

* 2010 cost subject to change Client to Guide ratio 3:1 for the ascent of Cotopaxi and 2:1 for Chimborazo




Climbing Grade: Beginner

We begin our adventure in Ecuador with an orientation in Quito (9,400 ft), the world's second highest capital after La Paz, Bolivia. The city lies in a gently sloping valley beneath peaks rising over 15,000 feet. As an added attraction to this wonderful trip we will be staying in charming haciendas and enjoying the fine cuisine Ecuador offers visitors.We begin to acclimatize by hiking and an easy ascent of El Corazon. We then move up to the Illinizas where we have an opportunity to review skills and climb the north peak. The ascent of Illiniza Norte offers enjoyable rock scrambling (class three) and ascends a scenic ridge with outstanding views of the south peak, Cotopaxi, and Antisana. After our ascent we descend to the valley and enjoy the comforts of a hot shower, excellent dining, and a warm bed. Then it’s off to Cotopaxi, the world's highest active volcano.

The mountain stands at 19,348 feet in Ecuador's Central Cordillera and towers high above three other major peaks, Ruminahui (15,602 feet), Sincholagua (16,360 feet), Quilindana (16,134 feet) and the paramo, an area reminiscent of the Scottish moors. We drive into Cotopaxi National Park, first passing through pine forests and then moving through more open country. You will have the opportunity to see a wide variety of animals, such as wild horses, llamas, and an abundance of bird life. These and many other exciting species of mammals and birds inhabit this unique ecological zone.

From the paramo we will drive to 15,092 feet where we begin our travel by foot. A forty-five minute hike brings us to the Jose Ribas Hut (15,749-ft.) at the base of Cotopaxi. Leaving in the early morning hours, we begin our summit attempt on non-glaciated snow slopes to reach the glacial platform at 17,000 feet. As the morning progresses, we watch the sun rise over the low clouds that cover the parkland and tropical forests far below. To the north we will be treated to views of the heavily glaciated, 18,714-ft. Antisana. After we rope up, we travel over more complex areas of the glacier, crossing snow bridges, skirting large crevasses, and ascending moderate terrain and various short, steep slopes to reach the summit cone. Once there, 35-40 degree snow slopes and a short ridge walk brings us onto Ecuador's second highest summit. From the summit, you will be rewarded with spectacular views of nine major equatorial peaks, the endless Amazon Basin, and Cotopaxi's 1000-ft. deep, active crater.

QUALIFICATIONS: We do suggest that you have some mountaineering experience prior to joining us for the Cotopaxi climb. It is suggested that climbers know the basic mountaineering skills, however it is not required as there will be one day of skills preparation for the ascent. Otherwise, completing the Mountain Madness Glacier Mountaineering School and Summit Climb or the Intro to Mountaineering Course are excellent to prepare for this trip.

TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.

QUESTIONS?: Call our office at 1-800-328-5925 or email us for more general information about Ecuador.

Itinerary for Cotopaxi, Illiniza Norte, & El Corazon

Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. Restaurant meals provided are listed as B,L, and D at the end of each day. You will be responsible for those meals not listed while in towns and cities. All meals in the mountains will be provided.

Day 1: Arrive in Ecuador, orientation in Quito, overnight in Hotel Reina Isabel.

Day 2: City tour, equipment check, and hike, overnight in Quito. B,L,D

Day 3: Travel to village of Machachi and climb 15,600 foot Corazon. If there are access problems we will climb Pichincha. Overnight in hacienda. B,L,D

Day 4: Hike to hut between Illiniza Sur and Norte. Mules will assist with the transport of our equipment so you will not be burdened with large packs. Skills review in the afternoon. Overnight camping.

Day 5: Today we will climb the north peak, which provides an excellent acclimatization ascent and an enjoyable rock scramble. Views of the Avenue of the Volcanoes are impressive from here. If time permits, we will review additional skills on the south peak After the days activities we descend to the comforts of a warm bed and a shower at a nearby hacienda. D

Day 6: We will wake up early and depart for Cotopaxi. We drive to approximately 15,092 feet on Cotopaxi where we take a short 45 minute hike to Jose Ribas hut. Rest and prepare for our climb. Overnight in hut. B, L

Day 7: Summit Cotopaxi. We will depart at 1 a.m. and hike up the scree slopes until we arrive at the glacier. From here we ascend snow and ice, arriving at a steep section just below the crater rim. After ascending this short section, we arrive at the summit where we can peer into the mountain’s crater or enjoy the view of the countryside. If we summit this day we enjoy the night at Hacienda La Cienega. D

Day 8: Optional summit day. D

Day 9: Fly home

For those on the Chimborazo extension;

Day 9: Drive to Urbina farmhouse and spend the night.

Day 10: Hike up to upper hut

Day 11:  Summit Chimborazo and return to hut.

Day 12: Return to Quito; or optional summit day

Day 13: Fly home.



NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.

A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in Quito, trekking in the humidity and heat, and to protect you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of this trek and are the minimum required for this trip. You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.

The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!

The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.

Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.

Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent , a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.

We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle. They will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210.



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