Chimborazo, Cayambe, and Cotopaxi summit climbs

I tell you what, that trip was fantastic ! I hated to leave and wanted to do it all over again. Gaspar was a fantastic guide and I think an integral component of the trips overall success. It felt much more balanced because he is a local and relayed so much about the history and traditions of the areas..as well as being pleasant (always a smile)...and his know-how on the mountain was second to none. ~ Carol Castellani

ECUADOR AND THE AVENUE OF THE VOLCANOES
Imagine you have just spent the last six hours climbing in the darkest hours of the night on the equatorial glaciers of 20,703-foot Chimborazo. Flashes of lightning far off in the distance eerily illuminate the scene as you climb through the night. After all your labors you finally arrive on the summit. On top you are greeted by the morning sun and magnificent views of some of the more than 30 volcanoes that dot the landscape and rise far above the patchwork of fields where potatoes, corn, and a variety of other crops are grown by the various indigenous groups of Ecuador. To the east lies the jungle; its green wildness shrouded in mystery by the billowing clouds and rain that support one of the most complex natural systems in the world - the Amazon Basin. Later that day you could be swinging in a hammock at one of the charming haciendas Mountain Madness groups enjoy, reveling in your ascent earlier that day to Ecuador's highest summit. Such are the wonders in store for visitors to this peaceful, very friendly country in South America.

Ecuador is a country of amazing diversity. Within its relatively small domain, an area slightly larger than Great Britain, there is an almost unparalleled treasure trove of biological richness. From the Galapagos Islands, made famous by Charles Darwin, to the coastal mangrove swamps and scrub forests, and upward to the mysterious "cloud forests ," there is enough to capture the imagination for a lifetime, and all this before you have even explored the highlands and mountains, let alone the Amazon Basin.

Travel in Ecuador is relatively simple and inexpensive compared to trips to the Himalayas or Africa. Best of all it's only a one-day flight away! Unlike the large expenditures of time and money involved for trips to Asia or Africa, trips to Ecuador can be made in two weeks at comparatively low costs. Perhaps the main attraction for climbers looking for an introduction to high altitude mountaineering are straightforward climbs to high places. There probably is not a better, more interesting place than Ecuador to gain some hands on experience.

For the mountaineer with limited time, Ecuador is a perfect short excursion. After landing in the beautiful, high colonial city of Quito and bargaining at the Otavalo market, we begin our ascent of Ecuador's three highest volcanoes.

We venture along the Avenue of Volcanoes, through Ecuador's countryside, to acclimatize on Pichincha (15,400 feet), allowing time to visit colorful market places and native villages. While climbing the beautiful Cayambe, Cotopaxi, and Chimborazo, we encounter glacier travel, 35-40 degree snow and ice slopes, and beautiful ridges.

The Ecuador Volcanoes trip offers the very best of a wonderful country: spectacular mountains, diverse terrain, and a variety of climbing situations. Ask about our extension to Galapagos for a journey into prehistoric times.

THE CLIMBS WITH MOUNTAIN MADNESS
Up until the 1820s Chimborazo was believed to be the highest point in the world. As a result it was the focal point for many expeditions of the time. The French, Italians, Germans, and the English went to conquer it, and even the famous Venezuelan liberator Simon Bolivar mounted an assault in 1822 that led him only to the snowline. However, in 1882 the renowned Englishman, Edward Whymper, reached the summit of Chimborazo during the same trip that he bagged Ecuador's second highest peak, the 19,340 foot Cotopaxi. Travelling overland by foot from the coast Whymper experienced great hardship to just reach the peaks! It took him weeks just to reach the Avenue of the Volcanoes and then with many failed attempts. His adventures, and eventual success, can be read in his book, "Travels Amongst the Great Andes of the Equator."

These days ascents of Ecuador's three highest summits can be made in a mere two weeks with almost all the comforts of home. With more than a decade of experience in the country Mountain Madness has created an ideal itinerary that incorporates a carefully developed acclimatization program, comfortable and unique lodging, excellent cuisine, and highly skilled guides.

After a period of acclimatization hiking we begin our climbs from the relative comfort of mountain huts. With the exception of the 45 minute hike to the huts on Cotopaxi and the upper hut on Chimborazo--where we carry about 50 pounds in our packs--our climbs are made in one day from huts. This allows us to carry minimal equipment during the ascents. Climbers on summit day will carry only about 15-25 pounds in their rucksacks. In short, participants will be climbing big mountains without big packs - a significant factor for those undertaking their first adventure to high altitudes.

Chimborazo

Chimborazo - At 20,703 feet this is Ecuador's highest peak. Depending on conditions Mountain Madness groups will ascend one of two routes on the magnificent western flank of the peak. The direct route, the most commonly used, and the Whymper route are relatively straightforward glacier climbs. While never difficult, the 30-35 degree slopes hold the climber's attention throughout the more than 4,000 feet of elevation gain to the summit. From the 16,400ft Whymper Hut, our ascent follows a low angled glacier ramp that leads to the long summit ridge. Here we encounter a few short 40 degree snow/ice slopes (no more than 100-300 feet in length) and groups typically find themselves negotiating a few crevassed sections on the upper slopes of the mountain. This is a long, difficult day of 12-14 hours roundtrip.

Cotopaxi

Cotopaxi - This 19,348 foot peak is located in beautiful Cotopaxi National Park, an area complete with alpine lakes, pine forests, and the stark, desolate landscape of the paramo. Standing in high isolation above the paramo, the striking cone-like perfection of this symmetrical mountain strikes the climbers imagination. From the 15,750-foot hut we ascend moderate glacier slopes to the summit. Along the way however, complex crevasse patterns and snowbridge crossings over deep crevasses make the climb interesting. After passing through a heavily crevassed area midway through the climb, we reach the final summit slope. Here a challenging section of 35-40 degree snow leads to the abrupt finish of the climb on the crater rim of the world's highest active volcano.

Cayambe

Cayambe

Cayambe - Good climbing and interesting glaciers characterize our chosen route on this beautiful 18,997 foot mountain, the third highest in the country. With easy access from a comfortable hut, the glaciers of Cayambe offer an outstanding venue for our Mountaineering School. Huge crevasses, complex icefalls, and seracs provide participants the ideal setting for learning ice climbing, crevasse rescue, and a variety of other fundamental skills. The ascent of Cayambe follows diverse glacier terrain to near the summit crater where often challenging route-finding around a gaping bergschrund provides an exciting climax to the climb.