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2010 Dates: (18 days):
custom dates
Land Cost:
Custom pricing; call for details
Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate
Participants should have waterfall ice climbing of grade 3 experience; our Ouray Ice Seminars or Alpine Ice Climbing course are excellent ways to prepare for this expedition
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 The Cordillera Blanca contains more than 300 major summits- more than 20 of these rise over 6000 meters. Climbers joining Mountain Madness in Peru will find incredible climbing and easy access. Steep, fantastically fluted ice faces, such as the Southwest Face of Piramide, wildly corniced ridges like the French Ridge on Huascaran Norte, and huge ice walls like the Northeast Face of Huandoy Norte are the norm and validate the comparisons of these peaks with the grandeur of the Himalayan peaks. Alpamayo and Quitaraju are no exceptions.
Considered by many to be the world’s most beautiful mountain, an ascent of Alpamayo is an achievement valued and recognized by mountaineers the world over. Mountain Madness’ ascent follows the “Ferrari Route” up the steep, fluted southwest face of the mountain. From a scenic high camp, we’ll cross a small glacier, surpass a tricky bergschrund, and climb eight pitches of snow and ice, gradually steepening to nearly 80 degrees. The last 400 feet offers beautiful blue water ice and ends at a knife-edged summit ridge.
And if this spectacular climb weren’t enough, from our Alpamayo high camp we’ll also attempt the north face of Quitaraju, with it’s more than 2000-feet of near perfect snow and ice conditions. Join Mountain Madness as we climb two of the Cordillera Blanca’s most sought after peaks set amongst one of the most beautiful alpine sites in the world. This expedition is ideal for those seeking technical challenge at high altitude.
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General Information on Alpamayo & Quitaraju
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Included in cost:
· Scheduled hotel nights
· Food while on the mountain
· Park Fees
· Group climbing and cooking gear
· Scheduled restaurant meals
· Porters
· Ground transportation to the mountains and while in the Cordillera Blanca
Not included in cost:
· Airfare
· Personal equipment
· Staff/guide gratuities
· Alcoholic beverages
· Trip Insurance
· Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth
· Hotels in Lima and transfer to airport for return flight home
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Itinerary for Alpamayo & Quitaraju
Included in the cost of your trip are scheduled group restaurant meals. All meals in the mountains will be provided.
Day 1: Fly to Lima. Arrive in the late evening.
Day 2: From Lima we travel the Pacific Coast Highway northward to Pativilca and then inland up the exciting Rio Fortaleza road to the high pass (14,400 ft.) near Conococho. Our descent into the upper part of the Rio Santa leads to the town of Huaraz. On arrival we check into our hotel.
Day 3: Rest day in Huaraz (10,000 ft.). Visit the local markets. Organize our gear.
Day 4: Leaving early, we drive to the valley of Llangonuco where we begin the Santa Cruz trek
Day 5: Hike to Laguna 69 beneath the beautiful Chacaraju. Overnight near Laguna Llangonuco.
Day 6: Hike to Quebrada Paria.
Day 7: Hike over Punta Union pass. Finish our trek into base camp. Alpamayo’s base camp is located at 14,270 ft. and situated amongst the Arhuaycocha valley’s highest trees. Here we are surrounded by several impressive peaks including Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Pucahirca and Artesonraju.
Day 8: Carry food and equipment higher on the mountain to the edge of the glacier at about 15,560 ft. Move up to the moraine camp near the edge of the glacier.
Day 9: Move to high camp at col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju at 17,000 ft.
Day 10: Rest day.
Day 11: Alpamayo Summit Climb. An alpine start is appropriate here. We leave at sunrise and arrive at the bergschrund early in the morning. We begin climbing 55-70 degree ice and snow and after about 7 pitches we arrive at the summit usually about 9-10 AM. We are back at our high camp between 1:00 and 4:00 p.m..
Day 12: This day at high camp serves as an additional summit day if needed or if more acclimatization is required. May also be a rest day.
Day 13-14: Extra day to climb Quitaraju or if needed for another summit day attempt.
Day 15: Descend to base camp.
Day 16: We make an early morning departure on our hike out. Again, with our heavy gear on burros we are able to enjoy the trek back to Cashapampa carrying only daypacks. Normally we arrive out at the road in early afternoon and head back to Huaraz for a hot shower and a celebratory dinner.
Day 17-18: Depart for Lima. Catch a late evening flight home. You will most likely arrive home on day 18 of the trip.
NOTE ON ITINERARY: As conditions on Alpamayo are variable from season to season, there is a chance that our scheduled route may be in an unfavorable state. Your trip leader will evaluate conditions and if unsatisfactory we will climb one of many other outstanding peaks in the Cordillera Blanca.
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Equipment List for Alpamayo & Quitaraju
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