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EXPEDITIONS
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Ranked in National Geographic Adventure's as one of the Best Adventure Travel Companies on Earth



South America
Argentina Bolivia Ecuador Peru


Alpamayo
19,512ft/5,947m
Alpamayo Extension
Itinerary | Equipment List | General Info |

2005 Dates:
Custom Dates. Please call for details.

Land Cost:
$2350 for a 1:1 ratio
$1925 for a 2:1 ratio


Climbing Grade:
Advanced
climbers should have experience with waterfall ice climbing up to grade 3


The mountains of the spectacular Cordillera Blanca of Peru contain some of the greatest vertical relief to be found outside the Himalayas and offer climbing challenges equal to those found in the great ranges of the world. This trip is well suited to intermediate climbers that have some technical ice climbing experience (climbers should be comfortable on 70-80 degree ice or the equivalent of waterfall ice grade 3). We will warm up on Chopakalki or Toclaraju and then travel up the spectacular Santa Cruz valley where some of the most impressive peaks of the range can be found.

Our climb of Alpamayo will consist of glacier travel to the base of the beautifully fluted southwest face. Once across the tricky, often difficult bergshrund we follow the Ferrari route directly to the narrow summit crest. The route here will consist of belayed climbing up steep snow and ice (up to 70-80 degrees towards the top). With no easy descent route available climbers will rappel the route and trace our route back to high camp. This is an immensely rewarding technically, challenging route and ranks high amongst the world’s classic alpine routes.



General Information on Alpamayo Extension

QUALIFICATIONS: We do suggest that you have previous technical ice climbing experience prior to joining us for the Pisco & Alpamayo Expedition. Climbers are expected to have glacier travel experience and have climbed both steeper alpine ice and waterfall ice up to grade 3. High altitude experience is advised but not required. Completing a Mountain Madness Alpine Ice Climbing Course or Ouray, Colorado waterfall ice seminar and having demonstrated competency on waterfall ice up to grade 3 is an excellent way to prepare for this trip. This trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning.

TRAINING PROGRAM: We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack. The best training for mountaineering is to carry a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains. Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning.

With more than one thousand feet of technical ice to climb this ascent will require special conditioning of calve muscles. Toe raises and bicycling will go a long ways in your training to help you meet the rigors of such a climb. You may want to consider joining us for some technical waterfall ice in Ouray, Colorado during the winter months of December- March.

WEATHER: Like all big mountains, the peaks of the Andes generate and attract their own weather, making conditions impossible to predict. April through August typically have the best weather, but be prepared for a wide range of temperatures, from freezing nights, to snowy and windy conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by high altitude. The wide fluctuation in temperatures makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.

FOOD: Mountain Madness is renowned for providing gourmet mountain cuisine. All of the meals from the trailhead and back will be provided, including pastas, rice, soups, dehydrated, and fresh foods. Bring along your favorite snack foods, energy bars, and after dinner treats. Trip members will help prepare meals and clean up in order to become comfortable with expedition cooking.

TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delays, medical expenses, and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.

GENERAL INFORMATION: This trip is subject to the booking information on the Mountain Madness Trip Application. We urge you to read this information carefully and to call us if you have any questions.

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Itinerary

Day 1: (same as day 14 of the Chopakalki itinerary and day 13 of the Toclaraju itinerary: Today is scheduled for rest and preparation for Alpamayo.

Day 2: From our hotel we drive to the small town of Cashapampa where we meet our mules and begin our trek to basecamp. We spend the night at Capllac Wayta.

Day 3: Arrive in basecamp (about 14,200 feet). This is a spectacular camp with incredible views of the surrounding peaks.

Day 4: Today we move up to our high camp located at about 17,000 feet. After final arrangements its early to bed in preparation for our early wake-up and a long, difficult summit day.

Day 5-6: These days are reserved for our summit attempts. We start early with the goal of arriving at the bergshrund just as the sunrises and to take advantage of firmer snow and ice conditions. With more than one thousand feet of technical ground to cover we move as fast and efficiently as possible once we begin the belayed climbing up the Ferrari route. After 8-10 pitches we arrive at the airy summit, take in the incredible views and begin our descent down the route. Return to high camp.

Day 7: We descend to basecamp.

Day 8: Hike out to Cashapampa where we catch our ride back to Huaraz and a celebration dinner.

Day 9-10: Return to Lima and our flights home.

NOTE ON ITINERARY: As conditions on Alpamayo are variable from season to season, there is a chance that our scheduled route may be in an unfavorable state. Your trip leader will evaluate conditions and if unsatisfactory we will climb one of many other outstanding peaks in the Cordillera Blanca.

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Equipment List




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