Elbrus Ski Trip Report

Mountain Madness 2004 Ama Dablam Climb
Oct. 10th –Nov. 14th 2003
Guide: Casey Henley
Clients: David Schneider, Scot Rolfe

It’s been a couple weeks now since arriving home from Nepal and our successful climb of what has been called the most beautiful mountain in the world. I am still wanting to greet people with the usual “Namaste”. The smiles and warmth of the Nepali people is amazing and the views unforgettable.

Our trip started in Kathmandu,one of the world’s great and interesting cities. We were met at the airport by our Mountain Madness Nepal staff, Rishi and Kili. Throughout the trip, their organization and helpfulness was apparent. After a couple days and nights seeing the sights and exploring the Thamel region’s various restaurants and shops, David and I left our 5 star hotel for the trek to base camp. We were to meet Jangbu, our climbing sherpa and Scot in Lukla who had opted for the 8-day Jiri – Lukla extension that we offer.

The famous flight to the Khumbu region has stunning views of the Himalayas and an exciting landing in the mountain village of Lukla. After meeting Scot and Jangbu we had lunch and trekked to Phakding for the night. Over the next 5 days we would trek and stay at Lodges every night. Every lodge is comfortable and the food is excellent. We stayed in Namche Bazaar for 2 nights to aid in our acclimatization. During our rest day we were able to go to the Sherpa museum and do a short hike with amazing views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. There are great shops, internet cafés and bakery’s in Namche also! We also got to know of Jangbu’s experience a little more. He has been on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Everest and many of the other Himalayan peaks numerous times. In fact, he had summitted Everest 9 times! On the way to Pangboche we ran into his brother coming from Everest. He has also summitted 8 times!

Eventually, after 2 nights in Pangboche, we hiked across the Dudh Kosi River and up to Ama Dablam Base Camp at 15,000’. Our Base Camp staff of Kami, Pasang Temba and Ganesh met us with warm smiles, hot tea and a delicious lunch. They also shared the fact that of the 8 groups that had attempted the summit so far this year, not a person had reached the top!

Each climber had their own 3-person tent in B.C. in addition to our own groups eating/hanging out tent, shower and gear tent. During the next few days we would make trips to A.B.C. with loads and eventually spend 2 nights there. While at A.B.C. we got hammered by a storm that deposited 2-3 feet of snow! The persistent weather didn’t allow for any climbing above A.B.C. so we discussed the possibility of taking a side-trip to Everest Base Camp and 18,500’ Kala Pattar. We all agreed that this would be better than sitting around twiddling our thumbs and waiting for more stable weather. It would also continue to help our acclimatization while allowing us to stay in lodges every night.

We hiked to 16,000’ Lobuche and spent 2 nights there. From Lobuche we hiked to Gorak Shep and up Kala Pattar, which is at the foot of Pumori. On the summit we were able to get tremendous views of Everest B.C., the Khumbu Icefall, the South Col route on Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We had just completed one of the world’s great treks as a side-trip to our Ama Dablam climb!

As we walked back into Ama Dablam B.C. the weather was beautiful and we had a renewed focus. We took a rest day for the snow to continue to melt/consolidate on the S.W. Ridge and to pack for our summit push. The next day we hiked to A.B.C. to spend the night before continuing to C1. The technical climbing and fixed ropes start just below C1. Luckily, for the climb we have great climbing sherpas that carry massive loads for us! Tents, food and client gear is carried and deposited at the different camps throughout the climb and descent.

Camp 1 is perched on top of a few hundred feet of class 4/5 slabs. It is on the crest of the ridge at 18,900’. Here one gets their first feel of the exposure that Ama Dablam is famous for. We took a rest day at C1 before climbing to C2. The climbing from C1 to C2 is primarily on high quality granite that is 4th – mid-5th class climbing up to the very steep Yellow Tower. This tower, when freed, is 5.10R. Luckily we have the fixed lines to jumar up! The entire route is fixed but wildly exposed and, at times, quite strenuous.

C2(19,500’) is perched on a narrow tower with only 3 possible tent-sites. You want to be careful going to the bathroom up there! From C2 the climbing is in your face all day. We climbed steep mixed snow, ice and rock before traversing left into a fluted corner. After climbing the corner we arrived at the narrow and exposed “mushroom ridge”. C3 (21,000’) is at the end of this ridge and situated just below the right side of the massive “Dablam” hanging glacier.

C3 is a fairly cold and exposed camp and we hoped to spend as little time there as possible. The next day we left camp at 8AM for the summit. The climbing on summit day is not as steep as on previous days but it is sustained snow and ice from 45-65 degrees. As we reach the right edge of the Dablam, Scot is too tired and feeling sick so he decides to turn around. We say a sad good-bye to him as David, Jangbu and myself continue to the summit. After 4 hours of climbing we reach the exposed summit(22,500’) of Ama Dablam!

The views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Pumori,, Makalu and the other great peaks of the world are breathtaking. We hug, snap some photos and celebrate for a short time before realizing we are only half way there. We still have 2 ½ days of descending before we are safe in B.C. After another night at C3 we spend 11 hours rappelling and down-climbing to C1! It is dark when we roll into camp. As we rappel from C1 the next day, we run into Pasang Dawa (another climbing sherpa) and Jangbu sherpa. They will bring down our tents, extra food and some of the clients personal gear. When we arrive at B.C. we are greeted by the smiling congratulations of the staff and their incredible service. The food is great and we don’t even get out of breath stuffing our faces in the oxygen rich air!

The next morning our porter shows up, grabs our huge duffles (3!) and we say good-bye to the B.C. staff and the mountain that has been in our dreams since the first time we tied into a rope years ago. We hike to Namche Bazaar that day and enjoy sleeping in a bed for the first time in a while. We get a chance to catch up on some email and shop before hiking to Lukla and celebrating some more! The next day we say good-bye to the mountains and fly back to Kathmandu, Rishi and Kili, the famous Yak and Yeti Hotel and the Rum Doodle Bar! We visit the incredible Monkey Temple and Durbar Square’s many temples.

It was a great trip. You don’t need to be a climber to appreciate the beauty of Ama Dablam but having touched it’s warm granite and climbed it’s steep snow and ice, you can really say it is a climbers mountain. With no easy route to the top, the climbing is steep, exposed and aesthetic. It doesn’t just end there however. There is so much more with a trip to Nepal. The people, the culture, the views and everything else come together to make something unforgettable. Every climber, trekker and adventurer must get to Nepal at some point in their lives. Hope to see you there next year!


	Ama Dablam Trip Report Oct - Nov. 2003 22,501ft/6,858m
		Mountain Madness 2004 Ama Dablam Climb Oct. 10th –Nov. 14th 2003 Guide: Casey Henley Clients: David Schneider, Scot Rolfe It’s been a couple weeks now since arriving home from Nepal and our successful climb of what has been called the most beautiful mountain in the world. I am still wanting to greet people with the usual “Namaste”. The smiles and warmth of the Nepali people is amazing and the views unforgettable. Our trip started in Kathmandu,one of the world’s great and interesting cities. We were met at the airport by our Mountain Madness Nepal staff, Rishi and Kili. Throughout the trip, their organization and helpfulness was apparent. After a couple days and nights seeing the sights and exploring the Thamel region’s various restaurants and shops, David and I left our 5 star hotel for the trek to base camp. We were to meet Jangbu, our climbing sherpa and Scot in Lukla who had opted for the 8-day Jiri – Lukla extension that we offer. The famous flight to the Khumbu region has stunning views of the Himalayas and an exciting landing in the mountain village of Lukla. After meeting Scot and Jangbu we had lunch and trekked to Phakding for the night. Over the next 5 days we would trek and stay at Lodges every night. Every lodge is comfortable and the food is excellent. We stayed in Namche Bazaar for 2 nights to aid in our acclimatization. During our rest day we were able to go to the Sherpa museum and do a short hike with amazing views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. There are great shops, internet cafés and bakery’s in Namche also! We also got to know of Jangbu’s experience a little more. He has been on Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Everest and many of the other Himalayan peaks numerous times. In fact, he had summitted Everest 9 times! On the way to Pangboche we ran into his brother coming from Everest. He has also summitted 8 times! Eventually, after 2 nights in Pangboche, we hiked across the Dudh Kosi River and up to Ama Dablam Base Camp at 15,000’. Our Base Camp staff of Kami, Pasang Temba and Ganesh met us with warm smiles, hot tea and a delicious lunch. They also shared the fact that of the 8 groups that had attempted the summit so far this year, not a person had reached the top! Each climber had their own 3-person tent in B.C. in addition to our own groups eating/hanging out tent, shower and gear tent. During the next few days we would make trips to A.B.C. with loads and eventually spend 2 nights there. While at A.B.C. we got hammered by a storm that deposited 2-3 feet of snow! The persistent weather didn’t allow for any climbing above A.B.C. so we discussed the possibility of taking a side-trip to Everest Base Camp and 18,500’ Kala Pattar. We all agreed that this would be better than sitting around twiddling our thumbs and waiting for more stable weather. It would also continue to help our acclimatization while allowing us to stay in lodges every night. We hiked to 16,000’ Lobuche and spent 2 nights there. From Lobuche we hiked to Gorak Shep and up Kala Pattar, which is at the foot of Pumori. On the summit we were able to get tremendous views of Everest B.C., the Khumbu Icefall, the South Col route on Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. We had just completed one of the world’s great treks as a side-trip to our Ama Dablam climb! As we walked back into Ama Dablam B.C. the weather was beautiful and we had a renewed focus. We took a rest day for the snow to continue to melt/consolidate on the S.W. Ridge and to pack for our summit push. The next day we hiked to A.B.C. to spend the night before continuing to C1. The technical climbing and fixed ropes start just below C1. Luckily, for the climb we have great climbing sherpas that carry massive loads for us! Tents, food and client gear is carried and deposited at the different camps throughout the climb and descent. Camp 1 is perched on top of a few hundred feet of class 4/5 slabs. It is on the crest of the ridge at 18,900’. Here one gets their first feel of the exposure that Ama Dablam is famous for. We took a rest day at C1 before climbing to C2. The climbing from C1 to C2 is primarily on high quality granite that is 4th – mid-5th class climbing up to the very steep Yellow Tower. This tower, when freed, is 5.10R. Luckily we have the fixed lines to jumar up! The entire route is fixed but wildly exposed and, at times, quite strenuous. C2(19,500’) is perched on a narrow tower with only 3 possible tent-sites. You want to be careful going to the bathroom up there! From C2 the climbing is in your face all day. We climbed steep mixed snow, ice and rock before traversing left into a fluted corner. After climbing the corner we arrived at the narrow and exposed “mushroom ridge”. C3 (21,000’) is at the end of this ridge and situated just below the right side of the massive “Dablam” hanging glacier. C3 is a fairly cold and exposed camp and we hoped to spend as little time there as possible. The next day we left camp at 8AM for the summit. The climbing on summit day is not as steep as on previous days but it is sustained snow and ice from 45-65 degrees. As we reach the right edge of the Dablam, Scot is too tired and feeling sick so he decides to turn around. We say a sad good-bye to him as David, Jangbu and myself continue to the summit. After 4 hours of climbing we reach the exposed summit(22,500’) of Ama Dablam! The views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Pumori,, Makalu and the other great peaks of the world are breathtaking. We hug, snap some photos and celebrate for a short time before realizing we are only half way there. We still have 2 ½ days of descending before we are safe in B.C. After another night at C3 we spend 11 hours rappelling and down-climbing to C1! It is dark when we roll into camp. As we rappel from C1 the next day, we run into Pasang Dawa (another climbing sherpa) and Jangbu sherpa. They will bring down our tents, extra food and some of the clients personal gear. When we arrive at B.C. we are greeted by the smiling congratulations of the staff and their incredible service. The food is great and we don’t even get out of breath stuffing our faces in the oxygen rich air! The next morning our porter shows up, grabs our huge duffles (3!) and we say good-bye to the B.C. staff and the mountain that has been in our dreams since the first time we tied into a rope years ago. We hike to Namche Bazaar that day and enjoy sleeping in a bed for the first time in a while. We get a chance to catch up on some email and shop before hiking to Lukla and celebrating some more! The next day we say good-bye to the mountains and fly back to Kathmandu, Rishi and Kili, the famous Yak and Yeti Hotel and the Rum Doodle Bar! We visit the incredible Monkey Temple and Durbar Square’s many temples. It was a great trip. You don’t need to be a climber to appreciate the beauty of Ama Dablam but having touched it’s warm granite and climbed it’s steep snow and ice, you can really say it is a climbers mountain. With no easy route to the top, the climbing is steep, exposed and aesthetic. It doesn’t just end there however. There is so much more with a trip to Nepal. The people, the culture, the views and everything else come together to make something unforgettable. Every climber, trekker and adventurer must get to Nepal at some point in their lives. Hope to see you there next year!