February 2nd, Aconcagua Expedition 2008
>>>DAILY DISPATCHES
Guide: Geoff Unger
Team Members: Claudio Campori, Mustafa Mahmoud, Sylvian Merlen, Dean Reidt, Jeremy Galarneaux, Ryan Russel, Dave Russel, Joe Lawson, Bill Westphal
Aconcagua, often referred to as the “Stone Sentinel,” is the highest peak in South America and the highest peak in the world outside of Asia. Climbing this beautiful mountain, which rises 4,000 feet above neighboring peaks, is a great way to experience the spectacular Andes of Argentina. All of our equipment is carried to base camp by mules. We follow the philosophy of climb high and sleep low as we establish a series of higher camps while ascending Aconcagua. We have also built in numerous inclement weather days to the schedule to allow more time to attempt the summit climb. These factors enable proper acclimatization and greatly increase our chance for success.
Aconcagua is an incredibly diverse mountain offering interesting routes for climbers of all abilities. For our ascent of the mountain we offer trips on two different routes. The Polish Traverse, which is often referred to as the False Polish Glacier Route, is a beautiful high altitude climb of moderate difficulty for the mountaineer with intermediate climbing skills. After our ascent we have the option to descend into the Horcones Valley and return to our starting point at the small town of Puenta del Inca by a different route, thus completing a circumnavigation of the mountain. For those desiring to climb on Himalayan expeditions to the 8,000-meter giants this climb provides excellent training and experience at higher altitudes.
Day 1: SANTIAGO 1,800 feet
Day 2: MENDOZA 2,428 feet
Day 3: LOS PENITENTES 8,500 feet Elevation gain-6,072 feet
Day 4: CONFLUENCIA 11,000 feet Elevation gain-2,500 feet
Day 5:MIRADOR 13,200 feet / CONFLUENCIA 11,000 feet Elevation gain-2,200 feet
Day 6: CONFLUENCIA 11,000 feet
Day 7: PLAZA DE MULAS 14,300 feet Elevation gain-1,100 feet
Day 8: PLAZA DE MULAS 14,300 feet
Day 9: CAMP CANADA 16,200 feet / 14,300 feet Elevation gain-1,900 feet
Day 10: PLAZA DE MULAS 14,300 feet
Day 11: CAMP CANADA 16,200 feet Elevation gain-1,900 feet
Day 12: NIDO DE CONDORES 17,500 feet 16,200 feet Elevation gain-1,300 feet
Day 13: NIDO DE CONDORES 17,500 feet Elevation gain-1,300 feet
Day 14: BERLIN CAMP 19,300 feet 17,500 feet Elevation gain-1,800 feet
Day 15: BERLIN CAMP 19,300 feet Elevation gain-1,800 feet
Days 16-17: ACONCAGUA SUMMIT 22,841 feet 19,300 feet Elevation gain-3,541 feet
Day 18: PLAZA DE MULAS 14,300 feet Elevation loss-5,000 feet
Day 19: LOS PENITENTES 8,500 feet Elevation loss-5,400 feet
Days 20 and 21: MENDOZA/ HOME 1,800 feet
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Dispatches
February 18, 2008
Summit Success!! After a long summit day and very high winds, Alleijo, our assistant guide summated 22,841 foot Aconcagua along with Mustafa Mahmoud and Sylvian Merlen. I turned around with the remaing group due to the windy conditions and some group fatigue.
We are now down at basecamp and the summit team has returned to high camp safely. Tomorrow, we will wait for the summit team and hopefully hike out. It has been yet another succesful Aconcagua expedition as we wrap up the 2007/2008 season. Congratulations to all who made the effort to summit the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere! Over and out!
Geoff Unger
February 17, 2008
Greetings from High Camp! We are staged here at Camp Cholera for our summit bid! Wish us luck for good weather, good conditions and good health!!
Geoff
February 13, 2008
Hello from Camp Canada! Today we made a carry to Camp II, Nido de Condores. This day is always long and tiring, requiring long traverses on unstable scree with heavy packs. Bill Westphal and Jeremy Galarneaux decided call it a trip here and descended back down to basecamp.
Tomorrow myself, Allejo and the remaining group will have a rest day and then move up to Camp Nido the day after that. Everyone is in great spirits and getting ready for our summit push!
Ciao, Geoff
February 12, 2008
Hi Everyone,
This is Geoff Unger reporting from Aconcagua base camp at Plaza de Mulas. On this expedition we are working on climbing to the highest point in the western hemisphere. We have already made one carry to Camp Canada at above 16,000 feet. Tomorrow we will move up to the camp we have already stocked in an effort to reach a high camp for our summit attempt. Here is what some of the climbers on this expedition have to say.
From Bill Westphal: Dear Tre, Kevin, Brian and Angela, The weather has improved to bright and sunny. Miss all of you. Thank you for your caring and love. A great group of people in the team. Take care of yourselves love, Bill.
From Jeremy Galarneax; I want to take this moment to thank my wife for supporting me during my training and my time away in Argentina. Thus far the climb has been great, the team is strong, and the guides are knowledgeable and supportive. I love you Calista.
From Joe Lawson: I want to thank my wife, family, friends, co workers and supporters for all your support and encouragement. Thanks, Joe
From Ryan Russel: From Plaza de Mulas{base camp} we have completed our carry to Camp Canada{Camp 1}. Dad has decided Base Camp will be his home for the next week. I am feeling good and look forward to the move to Camp 1. I am thankful for the photos I brought of Jill. I miss her and cant wait to see her in two weeks. Ryan
From the always campy Mustafa Salameh. In Arabic translated by Sylvain Merlen: This trip is very good. I am very happy. I am sharing a tent with Sylvain Merlen who keeps my spirits high. Our guide Geoff keeps us all in good shape and spirits despite his addiction to bouldering. Mustafa
Thank you to all of the contributors to this dispatch and to all of you who are supporting our efforts to climb this mountain.
Ciao from Argentina, Geoff
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