Dispatches

29 September

Hello, this is Angela calling from Manado with probably the last dispatch. It is the 29th of September and Daniel, Raymond and I got back to Manado late last night. The good news this morning is that Gabriel and Claude summitted yesterday! They are still at basecamp and will be coming down with the International Mountain guides group probably tommorrow. So good success there! Everyone is pretty psyched to be back to Manado and we are scrambling to change our tickets around today so we can get home as soon as possible. This is all of us at Manado, greetings to everyone!

Angela

27 September

Greetings! This is Angela back in Enarotali with Raymond and Daniel! We just barely made it out of base camp this afternoon after heated negotiations with Franky and the pilot, whom I finally convinced via the satelitte phone from bc, to just try. It was definitely dodgy flying, in and out, and the skills of the pilot are world class. Emotions were high and heated at bc while we sat in totally flyable conditions most of the day. With no helicopter. Finally he got in, and with him were Gabriel and Claude, who I think and hope will climb fast and take the helicopter out in two days time.

The mine shut down all access to get out of BC and all now is dependent on the helicopter and of course the weather at this point. Daniel had considerable frustrations with Franky trying to get through the mine and access was not only denied... they were delivered back to the valley head at the Zebra Wall at 1:00 in the morning in the pouring rain and told "nice to meet you". Understandably, after Franky had told us we could get out through the mine, this was a slap in the face once again.

Success on this expedition has been bittersweet. My thoughts have been with all the other members of the teams of both trips this month, who waited it out as long as they could. The logistical problems of both of these trips have been of astronomical proportions, and unacceptable, virtually since the first group arrived. Although I know it is of little consolation, know that Raymond and I carried the spirit of all of those who were with us to the top... Pierre, Petr, Ivana, Joe, Marcin and Mikael.

Thanks for following the expedition. The journey is not over yet however... we have to get back to Manado. Hopefully we will be on our way tomorrow and soon there after get the good news of Gabriel and Claude's success. I will let you know as soon as I get the word. All our best to those back home, who we are looking forward to seeing soon!

Cheers, Angela

26 September

Hello, this is Angela calling from base camp. Good News!! Raymond and I summited today! At 10:15 am. We reached the summit in 4 hours and 4 hours down, and we had an awesome day. Raymond moved very quickly and we made the summit in good time. The bad news is that Daniel wasn’t able to hike out of the mines so he is now back up here at basecamp we will all have to wait for a helicopter and leave together, which wont be for another day. The rest of the group wasn’t able to make it in because of no helicopter. Other than that it has been a good few days, cheers!

Angela

25 September

Angela here calling from basecamp on Carstenz. Good news is that Daniel Griffith summitted yesterday! He flew in and got the last helicopter and was able to summitt in 9 hours. He is on his way out today.

Raymond was also on that flight and I was on the first flight. We are the only two here at basecamp and unfortunately the weather closed in and noone else has been able to fly in at all today.

So Raymond and I are going to hope for a summitt day tommorow and if the weather isnt cooperating than we have one more day to wait.

We will give you an update once again from basecamp. This is Angela saying hello to everyone.

Angela

23 September

Greetings from the wild highlands of Papua! Everyday brings new adventures of a different sort for us, mostly cultural. Without really knowing what is going on here, everything has an element of the unknown, which definitely is keeping us on our toes. There will be many an interesting story to tell when we all return home.

The good news is that our group from the 2nd trip caught up to us here in Enarotali and arrived yesterday! They flew in on a Twin Otter in less than an hour, by passing the grueling 17 hour drive! So now all together, we are Raymond, Marcen, Mikael, Joe, Gabriel, Claude, Daniel and myself. And, it looks like Petr and Ivana are on the mad dash to get back to catch us for the flight into BC.

Here's hoping this is the last email update I send, and all further postings are via the satellite phone from BC! We are scheduled to fly into tomorrow. The chief pilot of Indonesia Air Transport is on his way en route to Nabire right now, where the helicopter and the other pilot await with Franky. The plan is that they will all fly up here tomorrow, establish the base of operations and start shuttling us into BC.

It's great to have the team here and their good energy! Everyone looks strong and psyched. And we all send our best to you back home!

Cheers, Angela

22 September

We awoke this morning, before 6:00am, to very tribal sounding songs and a parade of locals marching up and down our street with handfuls and bags full of large rocks. The next wave looked like a group of dancing bushes, as they each carried a huge bundle of banana leaves! This proceeded for about 2 hours and we finally learned they were all happy and singing because they are having a party! The rocks are for a pit oven, apparently, which they will heat up and then cook a pig in, covering it with the leaves. It must be a very special party, as the pig is worth more than anything here and highly prized. I wonder if they'll invite us? At least we don't have to worry that they are going to cook us since they have a pig!

Marcen, Mikael, Joe, Gabriel and Claude arrived in Biak yesterday afternoon and if the weather is agreeable, will fly on to Nabire and then here to Enarotali today. It has been raining all night and into this morning here, so we shall see. We are anticipating that they will be able to get here by tomorrow at the latest. It will be great to have them join us! We have requested that they bring books, as everyone is about out of reading material. However, we are hoping that we won't have much more time to read and as we are very ready for some action. I really have to commend Daniel on his patience for waiting this one out. It has been more than frustrating. Raymond is holding up well and as intriqued with the locals as they are with him. He towers a good 2 feet above most everyone and gathers a crowd wherever he goes. They love him! Hopefully Petr and Ivana will return when we have news that the pilot has arrived.

Send us all the luck you can muster, rub the genie bottle, sing a chant on our behalf and pray for sunshine and that big metal bird that will wisk us to BC on the 24th! More from Enarotali as it all unfolds.

Cheers, Angela

21 September

Greetings from Enarotali, in the depths of inland Papua!!

We are truly in one of the wildest places on earth. The locals are are mix of various tribes, some walking around with bows and arrows and penis sheaths and looking wildly from a stone age existence. It would seem that we are as interesting to them as they us. The stares and astonished looks we get are phenomenal and it is as if some people have never seen white skin before!

We had an adventure on the edge just getting to Enarotali from the coastal town of Nabire. What was supposed to be a 7 hour "bumpy" ride in 2 4x4 trucks, ended up being a 17 hour, rather epic ordeal of the most extreme off-roading any of us had experienced! In one location, there were as many as 50 trucks, stuck in the mud, helping each other out. It was crazy and makes for good stories, but something I don't think any of us would care to repeat!

It is nice to be at a higher elevation here. We are at about 6000ft and the air is much cooler and the elevation better for acclimatizing. We are still waiting for the helicopter pilot to arrive and he has had another delay. Now we are scheduled to fly to BC on the 24th. Everyone's patience has been stretched about as thin as possible at this point. Unfortunately Petr and Ivana had to return to Manado to deal with some travel arrangements they have for continuing the rest of their trip in Indonesia. If the pilot arrives on the 23rd they may come back.

The other group is on their way from Manado today and should arrive in Enarotali (by plane!) in a day or two. Then we will all fly into BC together, and be roughly on schedule for the 2nd trip. At this point, Daniel is the only one left from the first trip, and we have Raymond with us still who traveled with us because he arrived early in Manado. We are hoping to be in and out of the mountain by the 29th, so he can continue with his Dani Trekking extension.

Almost everyone is out of reading material and we are somewhat under "house arrest" here in Enarotali. The local police, who we are registered with, have requested that we not leave Enarotali. They are concerned for our safety with some of the tribal wars that are going on in Papua right now and do not want us to leave this town. It is unfortunate, as we would love to get out and see the local culture, stretch our legs and experience the true nature of our surroundings. We are trying to arrange a tour with a policeman accompanying us and will see what results.

More from Enarotali before we leave for BC on the 24th, when the rest of our group arrives! Thanks for tuning in and we all send our best to family and friends at home.

Cheers, Angela

17 September

Hello from Papua, and the island of Biak!

We are making progress finally and everything looks good for staying on schedule right now and reaching BC on the 19th. The only factor that might change that is the weather. That's the factor we all know and it will be a relief when our decisions are based on that!

We have three seats on a Twin Otter secured today to Nabire! Petr and Ivana will go with on of our local staff, since they have been here 2 days. The rest of us will be on a flight tomorrow. From Nabire, we hope to get to Enarotali the next day and be waiting above sea level at 1600m for the helocopter to shuttle us to BC.

Biak is an interesting island and everyone is very friendly. Their ethnicity is quite different to Sulawesi, and with predominately african characteristics. The diversity of Indonesia is mind boggling with over 35 inhabited islands, all unique. Biak is predominentyly a coastal fishing industry and tuna is the major export. World War II resulted in major carnage here when the Americans invaded and overtook some 7500 Japanese soliders here, who hid out in limestone caves on the coastal shores. A bloody past and many changes here since the Dutch missionarys and WWII.

Hopefully their future will be brighter and tourism will discover this hidden paradise. With the combination of very friendly locals, a rich traditional history (compete with firewalking ceremonys), coral reefs, ship and plane wrecks not yet discovered, it would certainly attract some adventerous explorers!

More from Nabire or Enarotali as soon as we are there. We all send our best to everyone back home!

Cheers, Angela

16 September

Hello, this is Angela calling from Papua! We have reached Nabiri and today we are taking a couple of jeeps to Inaratoli, it will be about a 7 hour drive through the jungle up to about 6,000 feet. We will be delayed to about the 21st for now with the helicopter. Everyone is psyched to get to the mountain and we will get the chance to visit a few villages. Hope everyone is doing well.

Angela

15 September 2006

Hello, this is Angela calling from Papua. We escaped our grips from Manado this morning when we left the Ritz Hotel at 5:30 am.Tomorrow hopefully we’ll take a Twin Otter on to Nabire and perhaps on to Enarotali at about 6000 ft. We’ve joined up with Petr and Ivana again and everyone is very psyched to be in Papua and on our way to Carstensz! We send our very best to everyone back home and we’ll talk to you again from higher up on the mountain. Cheers. Angela

14 September

It looks like we are going to "MAKE IT HAPPEN"! After all the patience and frustration of waiting we are departing Manado tomorrow for Papua. I applaud the team's patience and willingness to wait it out for so long. Unfortunately, Pierre can not extend his stay any longer than the amount of time it will take to get in to BC, climb and out. If we have any delays due to weather, he would be unable to make his connections and obligations back in Germany. We will miss him and carry his spirit to the top.

Raymond Behm from the next group has arrived early and we are taking him with us! He is all ready to go and he will be a great addition to the team. It is a strong team and we look forward to hooking back up with Petr and Ivana who are waiting in Biak for us, after their adventures in Toranja.

Dan is on a quest to climb all 7 Summits in 7 months and he is pretty psyched that things are looking good. He just recently climbed Elbrus and will be on his way to Kilimanjaro directly from here. Fortunately he has been able to stay flexible with his plans, as things are looking good for his venture to be successful. He summited Everest in May, Denali in June, Elbrus in August and has Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua (both of which he has climbed already) and Mt. Vinson left to complete his quest. Impressive effort! He even flew to Austrailia right before this and summited Kosiosku to top it all off! Fine style.

We'll be back with news as our journey continues in the right direction! All the best from Indonesia.

Cheers,Angela

12 September 2006

Hello again from Manado, where we had another awesome excursion today. We ventured across the island to the Pacific side and visited the famous Tangkoko National Park, which was about 2 hours drive from here, on another narrow winding road. We are certainly in the tropics here and the abundance of broadleaf deciduous trees and the size of the leaves is incredible. Date palms, coconut trees, banana and papaya trees are everywhere you look. Absent are an abundance of birdlife that you would expect to see in such a region. Fortunately, the government had enough forsight to set aside this park to protect what's left of it's incredible and endemic wildlife species.

At the Park, two rangers guided us into the forest taking us from one path to another in a maze of trails that led deeper into the canopy. We stopped at one point to collect small green grasshoppers to offer to the small monkeys we hoped we would find. The rangers seemed pretty confident that we would. After about 45 minutes we came to a most impressive Ficus (Fig) tree, and there they were... Tarsius Spectrum! The smallest primates in the world, and there was a whole family of these mini little Lemurs! Maybe 6 or more, hiding inside the extensive root structure of the tree! They didn't seem to fear us, as I imagine they are photographed often and as soon as the rangers pulled out the grasshoppers they became very interested! We spent a good half hour or more enthralled with this little creature, watching their funny antics with their large eyes don't move and big ears that are very expressive. I think we all got some great photos and certainly many good laughs watching them jump about, trying to capture it all on film.

Hiking onwards, we encountered two of the Sulawesi Bear Cuscus that are endemic to the island, high in the canopy. This illusive furry little creature looks alot like it's relative the Koala Bear in Austrailia, but with a much larger tail which it grips the limbs of trees with. The rangers said we were very lucky indeed to get a glimpse of these guys!

And lastly, we visited with a little tribe of about 14 Black Crested Macaque chowing mangoes and swinging too and fro on the branches and vines. These black monkeys did not seem worried with our presence at all and we were able to get quite close to them. There were members of all ages and they certainly seemed to be enjoying themselves monkeying about in the trees. Evidently their teeth are sharp enough and their jaws strong enough to crush a coconut for it's milk!

An amazing day and an experienced not to be missed here on Northern Sulawesi! We all send our best to family and friends back home! I'll be back with news as it unfolds on our long awaited journey to Papua, which looks like it is going to launch in the next day or two.

Cheers, Angela

10 September 2006

Hi Folks! We are still in Manado, but remain hopeful of our chances to get to the mountain. Indonesian politics are posing a major challenge for our outfitter, and he is still in Jakarta trying to sort things out. Fortunately everyone is flexible enough to change their plans and stay to wait it out a little longer. We are hoping for good news tomorrow. If we get the green light, we'll fly to Papua and spend a couple of days in Wamena visiting with the Dani Tribe before flying onto Timika.

Petr and Ivana have ventured into Central Sulawesi to explore the highland culture for several days and Pierre, Daniel and I stayed back here to wait for Franky to return to Jakarta. We'll be back with news as soon as we get it. Thanks for checking in and we all send our best to friends and family back home!

Cheers, Angela

September 7 2006

Hello again from Manado on the Island of Sulawesi! Our plans have changed to stay another couple of days here in Manado, due to a few challenges Franky is experiencing with the Russian Helicopter contract. He assured us that all will go as planned before he left for Jakarta this morning to secure the necessary paperwork. We'll continue to explore the underwater mecca here, the local national parks, markets and awesome seafood that is in abundance.

The new plan is to depart late Saturday night for Jayapura and transfer to Wamena in the Baliem Valley of Papua. That will give us a litte time to begin acclimatizing, and visit with the famous Dani Tribesman, whom we are all so curious about, before flying onto base camp.

Ivana and Petr headed back out to the Isle of Bunaken to scuba dive again today. They saw a shark and some other pretty interesting sealife and dove to a depth of 21 meters! Pierre and I will go out again tomorrow for some more snorkeling with a couple others from the team that are also here to climb.

We'll keep you posted on the latest!

All the best, Angela

September 6

Petr and Ivana arrived yesterday afternoon from the Czech Republic and nearly 40 hours of traveling! We're psyched to all be together now and it looks like we'll be flying from here to Jayapura, on Irian Jaya, on the 8th. So we have a couple of days to explore the Island of Sulwalesi and get aquainted with this fascinating part of Indonesia.

Yesterday Pierre, Daniel and I spent the day snorkeling off the island of Bunaken with one of Franky's guides, Rudy. I've done some snorkeling before, but this was truly world-class! We visited 4 different coral reefs and saw some of the most colorful and interesting species of fish and coral imaginable. The reef dropped off abruptly into the depths giving a diversity of life on what seemed the edge of the ocean. The colors were unlike any I've ever seen and the variety of life stunning. We were fortunate to swim with 3 large Manta Rays for about 10 minutes before they spiraled into the depths. I saw a school of about 8 squid and someone else spotted a large sea turtle. On the way back to Manado, about 45 minutes by boat, we encountered a school of dolphins that seemed enthralled with our vessel. They performed graceful acrobatics out of and under the water and surfed the bow wave of our boat, much to our delight. Incredible day!

There is much to explore here off the coast of Manado. Petr and Ivana set off for Bunaken today to scuba dive and are planning on spending another 10 days doing so after we return from Carstensz.

Our plans have changed to depart Manado on the 8th. We'll be back with more on our local adventures, so check back in!

Cheers, Angela

Tuesday, 05 September

Greetings from Indonesia and the launch of our first September Carstensz Pyramid Expedition! Daniel and I arrived in Manado yesterday afternoon (with all our bags!) and met up with Pierre in the hotel, who had arrived the day earlier. Petr and Ivana arrive this afternoon and we are hoping to depart Manado early in the morning for Jayapura. Franky took us all out to an exquisite seafood dinner on the coast last night for our first sampling of Indonesian cuisine. Fantastic!

Pierre, Daniel and I are going to take advantage of the world class snorkeling today and try not to burn to a crisp in the equatorial sun. There is another small group here to climb Carstenz, as well as two Spaniards and three from England.

After some 26 hours of airtime it's great to be here. The journey continues... tune in for more as our adventure to the mountain unfolds!

Cheers, Angela