Everest Base Camp & Island Peak 2006
>>>DAILY DISPATCHES
Guide: Casey Henley
Team Members: Trekking Group #1: Ted Chinn, Emily & Chris Stephens, Patrice & Jim Miller
Trekking Group #2: Larry Bates, Ian and Carolyn Jones, Jason Behr, Hans Jutner, Karen Kranenburg, and Patricia Montoya
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Dispatches
May 7th:
Hello from Kathmandu!
Namaste! We have been back in the city for a couple days now and it seems things are back to normal here. The King has given power back to the people and everyone is happy. All of the shops are open and a few members of the group needed extra duffle bags made for all the gifts and souvenirs they are bringing home! Kathmandu is a great place for shopping and there are many great deals to be made. Haggling for the price is always part of the fun!
Hans, Pat and Karen all left today. Ian, Carolyn and myself depart tomorow. Ian, Carolyn and Pat are all spending some time in Thailand on the way home. Stopping there on either end of these trips is always a bonus. More geat shopping, beaches(kayaking, snorkelling) and limestone sport-climbing.
Larry is spending some more time here and leaves on the 9th. He is off to visit "Freak Steet" and Durbur Square today.
Jason is still in the Khumbu and should be arriving to Kathmandu in the next few days. We all hope he is having a great trip with Nima Tendi and Pasang Sherpa!
We all enjoyed a great dinner with Takla(our local lead guide) and his wife Pasang at the K-Too Steakhouse last night. Good times!
This concludes our Everest treks for this season and I just wanted to congratulate everyone on doing such a good job and taking the opportunity to come here. You all stretched your comfort zones some and visited one of the most fascinating places in the world. You embraced and enjoyed the differences from being at home and I even heard one of you say "If I wanted to feel like I was at home I would have stayed at home!". CONGRATULATIONS FOLKS - YOU MADE IT HAPPEN!
I also wanted to thank all of our local support staff! Without you none of this is possible. We had an incredible 2:1 ratio of clients:guides and an amazing cook crew. Not many trekking crews have that kind of service. These guys work so hard to make our lives easier on the trips and they always take pride in their work. Everyone on the trip made a special connection with 1 or more locals. Kili and Sagar really know how to pick their staff. THANK-YOU!
To all of the trekkers and climbers this season, thank you for sharing this wonderful place with me. The people of Nepal also thank-you for coming and discovering first hand that it is quite safe to come here even during the times of political unrest. Hopefully the current trend of democracy and peace continues.
I hope to see you in Nepal next spring!
Cheers,
Casey Henley
***I am off to Carstensz Pyramid next so stay tuned for dispatches from Irian Jaya!
May 2nd:
Namaste from Namche Bazaar!
Sorry it has been a while since the last dispatch...we have been very busy!
Since my last dispatch we walked to Gorak Shep and rested for the upcoming busy days. We awoke early the next day and ascended Kala Pattar. Pat flew to the top! For a little lady from Phoenix she sure can hike. Among the group we had a 70 year old(Hans) and the first person I know of from Guayana(Karen) to stand on top. It was a beautiful morning and we were able to see the South Col, Lhotse and, of course, Everest. Then we walked to Base Camp for dinner and the night. Everyone got to see the famous Khumbu Ice-fall and the hopefull climbers that were starting out in it. Ian and Carolyn are the first 2 Tasmanians I can think of getting to Base camp too!
Jason left us for his Cho La, Gokyo Valley extension the morning we left. He is hoping to spend another 10 days exploring the Khumbu region with Nima Tendi. Having personally spent some time in the Gokyo Valley, I can say it is simply amazing. Have fun Jason!
As you might remember, we were delayed in Kathmandu for 2 days so that made our BC stay a little shorter. It also meant that yesterday we hiked from basecamp all the way to Pheriche and then from Pheriche to Namche Bazaar today! Everyone is a little tired but my hat is off to them for still getting so much from the trip. Thankfully, Larry is still keeping us laughing all the time. We are once again settling into the Zamling Lodge and tomorrow we will walk to Lukla. I will email again from Kathmandu in a few days.
Cheers, Casey Henley
April 28th:
Hello its casey from Lobuche, over the last few days we have trekked to Tangboche and visited the Tangboche monestary, and the next day we trekked through the beautiful rhododendron forest to Dingboche where we had a rest day there. Some of us hiked up a local peak where we got beautiful views of Island Peak, Ama Dablaam and Makalu, the 5th highest mountain in the world.
Everyone enjoyed playing cards with the locals and even a few clients went out to the pool hall in Dingboche where they attempted to play pool with the locals, but they were badly beaten. The next day we hiked over to lobuche and hiked past all the memorials on the glacier including Scott Fischers who past away in the 96 Everest Tragedy. We then had lunch in Dzghla and then made our way up to Lobuche. The weather seems to be getting better, it usually snows every night and then clears up in the morning. Today was a rest day in Lobuche where we were able to take hot showers and sleep in comfy beds at the Eco lodge. A couple of us went for a hike up to the Italian research center.
If the group is feeling up to it we will climb Kala Pattar tomorrow. The following day we trek to the famous Everest Base Camp and the foot of the Khumbu Icefall
We all say hi to the friends at home!
Casey
April 23rd:
Hello folks!
Everyone would like to say hello to friends and family back home and that they are having wonderful rest day in Namche Bazaar!
Yes that's right folks we flew out of Kathmandu the day after the curfew. We had a tense moment when our plane was declared unfit for travel(Yeti Airlines is the best airline in Nepal but one engine wasn't firing up) but they quickly put us in a MI-8 Russian helicopter and flew us to Lukla! What a great flight. The views were spectacular and many of the members said that if they had to go home now that the trip would already have been totally worthwhile.
Upon arrival in Lukla we had a cup of tea and some breakfast while the porters got the loads together. It is always amazing how cheery these guys are while schlepping our loads. They are always singing, smiling and laughing. They work so hard and (while MM pays their porters well) make so little yet are always happy. Kinda puts grumbling about being delayed a day or two at the Radisson in Kathmandu in perspective! I felt a little guilty when I got here!
The last couple days had us travelling from Lukla to Phakding for our first night and then yesterday we hiked to Namche Bazaar - the cultural and business center of the Khumbu region. These first couple days are always some of the most fascinating of the trip. We travel through Sherpa villages and play with the children along the way. While Everest is our destination we quickly realize that it is the sides of the mountains that sustain life!
This morning we hiked up to the Everest view. This short hike rewards the visitor with stunning views of many of the world's greatest peaks - Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kangtega, Kusum Kanguru, Cholatse, Tawoche, etc. It also helps us with acclimatization since we get a chance to "climb high, sleep low" like many expedition climbers do on big peaks. The rest of the day is spent shopping, emailing, reading, visiting our lodge owner's meditation room and napping. Tonight our cook has whipped up a cake for Ian and Hans since they both recently had birthdays. Hans just turned 70! I hope I can even think about doing a trip like this when I am that age...I guess I should maybe cut down on thirds at dinner time then!
Tomorrow we head to the Tengboche Monastery where we will camp right beside this historic Gompa. Hopefully we will get a chance to observe the monks during a ceremony. On our way out of Namche we will stop at the Sherpa Cultural Museum and a Traditional Sherpa Home. Our route takes a high traverse above the famous Dudh(milk) Kosi(river). The views are amazing!
Our next stop after Tengboche will be Dingboche and another rest day. I will call in a dispatch with the satellite phone from there. Until then everyone take care!
Cheers, Casey Henley
April 20th:
Namaste!
This is Casey Henley reporting from Kathmandu...yes we are still in Kathmandu!
We were to fly 2 days ago but the weather was not cooperating. Having flown to Lukla many times before it is a little refreshing to see the Airlines taking this conservative approach. It can be a scary flight with some clouds and Wednesday was raining and completely overcast. Not what you want for flying in the mountains!
Today the airlines were on strike as a show of solidarity for the people. As many of you know, Nepal is experiencing some turmoil right now. I assure you that as westerners we are maybe inconvienced at times but we are all feeling very safe. The King has imposed a curfew in the city so today was spent relaxing by the pool, and fattening up for our trek!
The local staff in Lukla are preparing for our trek and we hope to fly tomorrow if the curfew is lifted. Right now it looks like it will be lifted at 3AM.
Well, hopefully in a couple days I will write from Namche Bazaar. I am excited to share this wonderful region with the trekkers and those first few days are always full of excitement and wonder. The beautiful villages, ancient mani stones, prayer wheels and the friendly people are a great way to start any trip!
Talk to you soon!
-Casey Henley
April 18th:
Hello once again from Kathmandu!
The second group has all arrived and many have been here for a few days already so they can see the sights and relax before our incredible trip.
Today was spent seeing the worlds largest stupa - Boddnath, the famous "Monkey Temple" and Pashtupati - an ancient cremation and holy site near the Bagmati River. The group has been exploring Thamel and while some of the shops are closed there are still more things to buy than you can imagine! I made the mistake after our roof top pizza dinner last night of showing the group Pilgrims Book Store which probably has the best collection of cultural, mountaineering and travel books I have ever seen...yeesh! We didn't get out of there until late in the evening!
As soon as we got back to the Hotel the rain started and there was an amazing lightning show from the roof-top bar at the Radisson. It was one of the best "light shows" I have ever seen! Eventually we decided it may not be such a great idea to be on the roof and we all turned in...
We are up early tomorrow to catch our plane to Lukla. After the always exciting flight to the mountains we will meet our incredible staff and walk to Phakding for the evening. The next day we hike to Namche Bazaar and spend a rest day there. I will send another dispatch from the hills!
I am sure everyone back home has heard of the unrest in Nepal but I want to assure you that everyone is doing well and that I still feel quite safe as a tourist. The people of Nepal are very friendly and full of integrity. They do not wish harm on anyone! They want visitors to continue to experience their culture and the wonders of the highest mountains in the world and to feel safe.
Talk to you soon! Namaste!
Casey Henley
April 16th:
Hello all!
We are wrapping up our first trek here in Kathmandu. Things are quiet here in the capital. The news has been covering a lot of the things happening in Kathmandu but I can tell you that as a westerner here I still feel quite safe. The people here are as friendly as ever and I still feel more welcome in Nepal than almost anywhere else in the world. Jim, Patrice and I flew from Kathmandu today and checked in to the Radisson. Ahhhh! Luxury! Although we were treated pretty well during our trek by the local staff. The food and service were excellent and we always have numerous local guides to cater to varying needs. Chris and Emily were able to get on a flight from Kathmandu to Bangkok on the 13th! Kili and his local staff met them at the airport and worked their usual magic. They were able to transfer from one plane to the other immediately. Ted hung out for a few more days and I was delighted to have coffee with him and some members from the next trek this morning. Around 11AM kili came to take him to the airport.
As always it is great to see the trekkers connect with the locals and to experience such new and exciting experiences. I love it when I see people always looking up at the peaks and so driven to see Everest and then they finish the trip realizing that the highlights for them were the people, the interactions, the personal growth/realizations and all the other fascinating things about Nepal! This is still one of the greatest trips in the world! Make it Happen!
Talk to you soon from trek#2!
Cheers, Casey Henley
April 14th:
Namaste from Namche Bazaar!
The group continued down to Deboche and Jim and I headed to Chukkung. After a semi-rest day in Chukkung(we hiked Chukkung Ri - 18,357') we headed to High Camp(17,852') on Island Peak(20,305'). We got a 3AM start and Jim and I summitted Island Peak yesterday and hiked down to Chukkung. We were the only ones on the peak! We had great views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Num Ri and many other peaks. It was a little cold and windy but Jim did great. We raced up to the summit in 4 hours! Then we hiked all the way from Chukkung to Namche today...talk about horses to the barn! We are settled at the Zamling Guest House which has private rooms with comfy beds and more importantly private "sit" toilets and hot showers!
Patrice spent a couple nights in Deboche/Tengboche area taking pictures and visiting the Nunnery. She is hoping to raise some money for the Nuns with some of the pictures. She headed to Lukla today and will fly to Kathmandu tomorrow. We will be one day behind her.
Ted, Chris and Emily flew to Kathmandu yesterday. Everyone has had a great trip and we had some fun times in the dining tent and on the trail! Congratulations to everyone! I will send a final dispatch from Kathmandu in a couple days. Then I will start the next group's dispatches!
Talk to you soon,
Casey
April 8th:
This is a dispatch from Everest Base Camp. This is Casey. We had a great rest day in Lobuche where Jim and I scrambled up a really cool rock peak.
We all successfully summited Kala Pattar a couple days ago! Yesterday, we walked into base camp and had a leisurely rest day today.
Our group will head down valley. Patrice will be hanging out in Debouche to take photographs while Jim and I will attempt Island peak.
Everything here in the Khumbu is fine. We hope everyone at home is fine. We send our love back to our love ones.
Casey
April 4th:
Hello, this is Casey calling from Lobuche. Everyone is doing well and starting to feel the altitude a bit. We will be spending the next two nights in Lobuche. We have had a great trip so far, we stopped at the Tangboche monastery and then down from Tangboche is the nunnery that is also part of Tangboche. We also stopped by Dingboche and had great views of Ama Dablaam all along the way and incredible views of the Lhotse and Nuptse walls and Island peak. So we have had some great, great views. Today we stopped for lunch (telephone message cut out)
(Re-call)
Casey calling from Lobuche in Khumbu valley. We are on are way to Lobuche from where the memorials are. We are going to spend a rest day in lobuche and do a little hiking. We had a great rest day in Loboche. Jim and myself walked up Shange peak, while everyone else took a short walk around town and rested. We will be headed off to base camp in a few days. Hope everyone is doing well back home.
March 26th:
Here we are in Kathmandu. I arrived a day early to get things ready for our trek and enjoyed the company of Jim and Patrice Miller that first night. We went to the classic Rum Doodle Restaurant for our first dinner together. On the walls are Yeti prints that have past expeditions names and members on them. There are ones from Reinhold Messner, Sir Edmund Hillary, Scott Fisher and yes even Christine Boskoff!
The next day Ted Chinn arrived and we all got to meet each other. We discovered that our other two members were delayed and would join us in the mountains. I knew that Kili Sherpa and his staff from Mountain Madness Nepal would have everything arranged once our missing trekkers arrived in Kathmandu.
Our last day in KTM had us touring the city and seeing the fascinating Hindu and Buddhist cultural sights of this city. We enjoyed seeing the Monkey Temple, Durbar Square and the Pashtupati cremation site on the holy Bagmati river. Our local guide is always great at explaining these sites. After dinner in Thamel we all finished packing for our early flight to Lukla the next morning. Talk to you from Namche Bazaar!
Casey
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