Dispatches

Dispatch #18 - August 1, 2005

This is Charlie Fowler reporting from Islamabad, Pakistan. On July 29 Megan, Nick and Joe flew from Skardu to Islamabad. Some of our gear had not been delivered from basecamp, so I waited in Skardu an extra day for it to arrive. When the gear did arrive, I was unable to fly to Islamabad, so I traveled overland back down the Karakoram Highway, a bumpy two-day trip.

Joe took off for home yesterday evening, while Nick and Megan checked into a nice hotel and will be relaxing there a few days before traveling on. Today I will be finishing up expedition business, including a de-briefing at the Ministry Of Tourism. Tomorrow morning I begin the long flight home to Colorado. It will be good to be home, but already I am thinking of returning soon to Pakistan.

Cheers,

Charlie


Dispatch #17 - July 28, 2005


This is Charlie Fowler reporting from Skardu. We arrive here yesterday afternoon after a long jeep ride from the trailhead at Askole. We left basecamp on July 24, intent on going over the pass of Gondogora La to the village of Hushe, but bad weather thwarted our plans. Instead we had to hike back down the Baltoro Glacier, a trek we accomplished in 3 longs days with 10 to 12 hours of hiking each day.

Hot showers, clean clothes and relaxing in a real bed were the highlights of yesterday afternoon and evening. Today team members went hiking and sightseeing while I took care of some expedition business with our Liaison Officer, Capt. Asif. We are scheduled to fly to Islamabad tomorrow morning and from there back home in a few more days.

Cheers,

Charlie


Dispatch #16 - July 22, 2005

This is Charlie Fowler reporting from Gasherbrum II basecamp. We were supposed to leave here today, but our porters failed to arrive. We spent the day lounging around camp and relaxing. Hopefully they will arrive tomorrow and we will arrive in Skardu in four or five days. Yesterday afternoon three of our friends made the summit of GII ---Linda, Mario, and Christina. Although the weather on the mountain has been fine for the last few days, conditions on the mountain have been pretty dangerous. I spoke with Linda and Mario yesterday afternoon and both of them confirmed that the climb was both very hard and very dangerous. In fact, Mario reported being caught in an avalanche and thought it was crazy that he was even up there. I am happy for their success and glad they returned safe, but also pleased we did not make an attempt in these conditions. We all know the summit can wait until next year. That’s all for now!

Charlie


Dispatch #15 - July 19, 2005

This is Charlie Fowler calling from Gasherbrum II basecamp. We are all back at basecamp, and most of our gear has been recovered off the mountain. We’re planning on leaving on July 22nd. We should be in Skardu on the 25th. The weather here is absolutely perfect – not a cloud in the sky – but the snow conditions are super dangerous right now. We have over a foot of new snow above basecamp. Pretty much all of the other teams are pulling out. The snow conditions are such that it is simply too dangerous to proceed given the time frame. Things are going as well as can be expected. Hope all is well and I’ll call in more later…

Charlie


Dispatch #14 - July 18, 2005

This is Charlie Fowler reporting from basecamp. The Mountain Madness team returned to basecamp early this morning, having aborted our summit attempt. For the last few days we had been at Camp 1, waiting for better weather and snow conditions to launch a serious bid for the summit. However, during our time up there the wind and snowstorms were frequent, rendering conditions on the mountain hazardous. Many other climbers were also waiting at Camp 1, and yesterday a little snowball battle between a couple of climbers escalated into a huge fight involving most teams. At least everyone is having fun and in good cheer!

We had planned on moving to Camp 2 this morning, but it was apparent that we needed to wait a few more days for conditions on the mountain to settle - time that we do not have. Our two high altitude porters, both very experienced on Gasherbrum 2, expressed great concern and reckoned it was too dangerous to proceed; an assessment I also shared. Nevertheless, a few teams did move up to Camp 2 today, but as expected reported poor snow conditions and slow going.

The adventure is not yet over for us, though. In a few days, on July 22, we will be leaving basecamp for the Gondogoro La, a high pass with outstanding views of all the high peaks in the region. Three days later we should arrive at the village of Hushe, then by jeep a day later in the city of Skardu. Weather permitting, we will then fly to Islamabad and the conclusion of our trip.

Despite not making the summit, everyone is in pretty good spirits about it all. Missing the top is certainly a part of the game and we can't take it too seriously. We did our best under some difficult circumstances, and we can all feel good about that. Already there is talk of other mountains and other trips.

More later, Charlie


July 16, 2005

This is Charlie Fowler reporting from Camp I on Gasherbrum. Everybody is here and we are doing well. Tomorrow we are going to go up to Camp 2. The weather has been windy with a little bit of snow. We expect the same weather tomorrow, but after that we should have a spell of good weather. We are on our summit pitch, and expect to head to the top around the 19th or 20th. There are quite a number of other groups here that are expected to try and summit at the same time, which is good because they should help break trail. However, we are running out of time. It’s getting late so this will be our last chance to try to summit.

Everything else is going well, and everyone is pretty excited. There are lots of other motivated climbers here and we are all pretty healthy and happy.

More later…

Charlie


Dispatch #12 - July 14, 2005

Basecamp. The weather forecast calls for about five days of decent conditions coming up, so we have decided to try for the summit in the coming days. Everyone is excited about the adventure ahead. Tonight Nick, Ezet, Saddiq and myself will move up to Camp 1, followed a day later by Megan and Joe. Nick and I will climb to Camp 2 the next day, with our porters in support. From there we will carry loads to Camp 3 on our third day and be joined back at Camp 2 that night by Megan and Joe. Several other teams will be arriving at Camp 2 then, as well. The next day everyone will move up to Camp 3. Late that night, some expeditions will try for the summit from there; we will join in the attempt, but establish Camp 4 at 7400 meter and after a rest go for the top. That's the plan, anyway. I'll be calling in dispatches from the mountain en route to report our progress. We should be on top on July 19 or 20.

Wish us luck!
Charlie


Dispatch #11 - July 13, 2005

Basecamp. As predicted, the weather turned for the worse today and it has been raining and snowing at Basecamp most of the day. Two days ago, Megan and I went up to Camp 1, along with our high altitude porters Ezet and Saddiq. Nick wasn't feeling well, and decided to remain at basecamp (he's feeling fine now). Joe also remained at basecamp, preferring to save his energy for the summit push, which will be coming soon.

The porters returned to basecamp after dropping a load at Camp 1, but Megan and I pushed on to Camp 2 early yesterday, pitching a tent at approximately 6500 meters on a broad snow shoulder. We spent last night there and returned to Basecamp this morning in deteriorating weather. Several other teams also made it to Camp 2 recently, and a few climbers worked on breaking trail to Camp 3.

The weather forecast calls for worsening conditions over the next few days, then some improvement around July 17 for at least three days or so. Like many of the teams here, our time is running short and we hope to make a summit push soon, perhaps during this next spell of good weather. We are coordinating a summit push with other teams, to share the hard work of breaking trail in heavy new snow. Our hope right now is that the current storm and expected high winds don't create excessively hazardous and strenuous, only time will tell.

Cheers,
Charlie


Dispatch #10 - July 10, 2005

Basecamp. I spoke with our Italian friend Eloise this afternoon by radio. She reports from Camp 1 that her teammates Mario and Michele and a few other climbers have pushed the route to within about 100 meters of Camp 2 this morning before turning around in the face of poor snow conditions. Today at Basecamp the weather is partly cloudy and mild. The forecast calls for bad weather returning in a few days, so we hope to make the most of this short spell of good weather and press on towards Camp 2. Leaving at 1 am tomorrow morning, Nick, Megan and I will climb to Camp 1 and try to reach Camp 2 the next day. Meanwhile, our high altitude porters Ezet and Saddiq will make a carry to Camp 1 tomorrow and return there the next day with Joe. As time is getting short, we are scrambling to get into place for a summit bid soon.

Cheers, Charlie


Dispatch #9 - July 9, 2005

Basecamp. We came back to basecamp early this morning from Camp 1. Our goal of reaching Camp 2 and above was not realized, as the weather remained unstable and more importantly, a lot of new snow on the route made progress both tedious and difficult. Yesterday, several climbers including Nick, Megan and myself, made a push to Camp 2. We were slowed by deep snow and were force back below our previous highpoint. Nevertheless, we left a large cache of gear on the mountain and got some good acclimating accomplished. It seems a few days of good weather will be needed to consolidate the large volume of new snow that has fallen in the past week. Our plan is to wait until snow conditions settle, and then return to the mountain, hopefully in a few days.

Today a large Korean expedition hosted a party, complete with tasty native dishes and refreshments. Joe provided musical entertainment on the harmonica, and Megan sang a song. It was a good opportunity to meet and mingle with some of the many expeditions now here at basecamp.

The next few days at basecamp promise to be relaxing, as we wait for another chance to get back on the route.

Cheers, Charlie


Dispatch #8 - July 5, 2005

Basecamp. Yesterday evening the clouds disappeared over the peaks and some teams left basecamp very early this morning towards Camp 1. A large German group led the way, encountering knee-deep snow in places, but relatively mild conditions. More clouds and light snow flurries returned today, but it remains warm and calm at basecamp. Our group will leave for Camp 1 tonight, at 1:00 am on June 6. The weather forecast calls for a dry spell starting June 8, so we hope to be in position at Camp 1 then to continue pushing the route higher, possibly to Camp 3. We may be above basecamp for several days if the forecast holds true. Many of the other expeditions on the mountain are also planning on moving to Camp 1 tonight and there will be a big push by all the groups to establish higher camps on the mountain in the next few days. Everyone on the Mountain Madness team is well-rested and ready to get back on the mountain.

Cheers,
Charlie


Dispatch #7 – July 4, 2005

Basecamp. For the last few days the team has been at basecamp, resting from our time up at Camp 1 and sitting out some bad weather. For the last few days there have been frequent snow showers with some brief periods of sunshine. Everyone is anxious to head back up the hill, but the forecast looks like a day or two more of unsettled conditions. In the meantime, several other expeditions have arrived and basecamp is taking on a real international flavor. Yesterday several expedition leaders met to coordinate breaking trail on both Gasherbrum 1 and 2 and maintaining the trail through the icefall and glacier to Camp 1 (common to both mountains). The long spell of good weather has made the icefall challenging, with crevasses widening daily; one in particular now requires a big jump to cross.

All teams are in basecamp now, but hope to head up to Camp 1 in a day or two if the weather improves as forecasted. Our plan is to sleep at Camp 1, then finish breaking trail to Camp 2, where we will spend another night. Weather and fitness permitting, we will try to reach Camp 3 on our next outing, as well.

Happy July 4!


Dispatch #6 - July 1, 2005

We are back in base camp after spending three nights up at camp 1, which will become our advanced base camp for the climb. The camp is on the Gasherbrum glacier, surrounded by all the Gasherbrum peaks. Quite a spectacular place! The start of our climb on G2 is about 1/2 hour from camp. During our time up there, we acclimated, organized our gear and help establish the route to camp 2. Several other parties of climbers have made camp up there as well, and are cooperating in fixing ropes up the steep face and ridge leading to the next camp. The weather, until today, has been warm and clear. This morning we awoke at 3 am (our usual wakeup time) to a snowstorm. After some consideration, we packed up and headed back down to base camp. The forecast calls for about 4-5 more days of unsettled weather. We will relax at base camp for a couple of days, and then decide the next course of action. Joe, Nick and Megan remain healthy and are acclimating well. We hope to sleep at camp 2 on our next trip up the hill.


Dispatch #5 - June 27, 2005

Greetings from basecamp. The weather remains clear and hot and we wonder, “how long will it last?” Today we took showers and rearranged basecamp, as it is melting out fast. We made a carry up to a depot on the glacier yesterday morning. At 1am tonight we will go from basecamp to camp 1, where we will spend a couple of nights. While at camp 1 we will work on pushing the route to camp 2 along with several other teams. Conditions on the mountain are snowy, and with the continued hot weather, avalanches are constantly falling all around. Joe, Nick, Megan and I are doing great, feeling strong, and ready to get on the mountain.


Dispatch #4 - June 22, 2005

We arrived at basecamp yesterday morning under sunny skies. Today is even nicer, with great views of all the peaks. We got a good look at the route on G2 - it looks snowy but straightforward. This morning we took a short hike up the icefall above camp to stretch out and assess conditions. Tomorrow, before sunrise, we will hike up the icefall towards camp 1 and drop a load of gear. In a few days we will climb all the way to camp 1 and spend the night. The whole team is doing great and having fun.


Dispatch 3 - June 16, 2005

(Paiyu) A few days ago Joe, Megan, Nick and I drove by jeep to the trailhead at the village of Askole, where we met the rest of our team. Guiding us to basecamp will be Manzoor. Our high altitude porters are Mohammed Sidddiq and Ezet Ullah, both of whom have climbed G2 before, among other high peaks. Our cook is Farman Ali, who was also the cook in 2002 when Chris Boskoff and I went to K2. That night he made us a special meal of rice, potatoes and capsicum.

The next morning after our porters had divided up our loads, we hit the trail to basecamp. it was a 6 hours hike to camp at Jhola (10,000 ft.) yesterday we continued the trek up the Braldu River Gorge to Paiyu camp. Last night the porters were in a festive mood, with much dancing and singing. Today we are taking a rest day in Paiyu, before the final push to basecamp, where we should arrive on the afternoon of June 20.

The weather is good today, and the forecast for the next few days is for clear weather, as well. Everyone is doing fine and in good spirits.

Cheers, Charlie


Dispatch #2 - June 12, 2005

Skardu. Our plane flight from Islamabad to Skardu on June 10th was canceled at the last minute, so we piled in a van and drove the Karakoram Highway instead. We arrived in the bustling town of Skardu late last night after nearly 24 hours of driving on a winding mountain road. After a good night's sleep, today was spent preparing for our trek to basecamp. We packed our loads, bought more food and supplies and met some other expeditions heading into the mountains. Tomorrow we have a 6-7 hour drive by jeep to the trailhead at Askole where we will meet our support staff. The weeklong trek up the Baltoro Glacier begins the next morning. Everyone is doing well and having fun. We are all anxious to get out of the cities and into the big mountains.

Charlie


Dispatch #1 - June 9, 2005

Rawalpindi. Greetings from Pakistan. This is Charlie Fowler, leader of the Mountain Madness Gasherbrum II Expedition. We've spent the last few days in Islamabad and Rawalpindi making preparations for our trip. Today we had our expedition briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and are now ready to fly to Skardu tomorrow morning, weather permitting. In Skardu we will spend a few days doing some last minute shopping for supplies and beginning the acclimatization process with some short hikes in the area. Everyone is in good spirits and anxious to get into the mountains for our great adventure. More later...

Cheers,
Charlie