Guide: Willie Benegas and Christine Boskoff Team Members: Willie Benegas was born and raised in Argentina and is among the elite of world-class mountain guides. His list of accomplishments is extraordinary, from first ascents in Patagonia, where he developed his passion for mountains early in life, to Baffin Island, Cho Oyu and Mount Everest. Willie has guided over 15 years across the globe with 3 successful ascents of Everest and 30 ascents of Aconcagua. He is member of the North Face Athlete Team. Recently Willie received the Golden Piton Award for his achievement climbing new difficult route on Nuptse west face with his brother Damien. Murray Rice , (Seattle, WA) has climbed throughout North America, including the Tetons, Canadian Rockies, Alaska, and in his backyard in the Cascades. In addition, Murray has taken part on expeditions to K2 and Everest. Murray has been on a number Denali expeditions. This is Murray's first expedition with Mountain Madness. Gene Rehfeld , (Denver, CO) has climbed 4 of the 7 summits, the highest point on each continent. Gene who is a cream cheese dealer, brings along a great sense of humor. This is Gene's sixth trip with Mountain Madness. Gary Ponder , (Annardale, NJ) has also climbed 4 of the 7 summits. This is Gary's 6th trip with Mountain Madness as well. Sarah Henley , (Bend OR) will be handling our base camp logistics. She will send us up-to-date cybercasts as events happen on Mt. Everest. Sarah has a wealth of experience with outdoor groups. Casey Henley , (Bend, OR) trekking leader, will be leading the trekkers that are joining the climbers on the walk into basecamp. Casey has climbed throughout North and South America. His experience in Nepal includes leading trips on the beautiful Ama Dablam. Our trekkers this year will consist of two groups, the first joining the climbers for the walk in to basecamp and the second walking in and hopefully timing their arrival just as the climbers return to basecamp. This year's trekkers include: Alan Northcutt , Waco, TX Robert Whitfield , Fayetteville,AR Wendy Dean , Littleton, CO Didier Sourbes , Littleton, CO Anny Lau , Lake Forest, CA Steve Ho , Lake Forest, CA Robert Nieman , Winnipeg, Canada Anne Music , Dallas, TX Guiliano De Marchi , Sao Paulo, Brazil Ricardo De Marchi , Sao Paulo, Brazil Warren Mcinteer , Glasgow, Scotland We wish the climbers and trekkers a safe and successful trip and welcome visitors to our cybercast. All the best and happy climbing and trekking to all, Christine Boskoff

Dispatches

Dispatch #45 - May 26, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Kathmandu, Nepal. The entire Mountain Madness Everest 2004 team has made it safely back to Kathmandu and are anxiously awaiting their departure time to get back home.

The hike out of the Khumbu region was beautiful. Since spring has arrived there are flowers blooming and the hills are lush and green. The beginning of the monsoon season seems to be here and the flights from Lukla to Kathmandu had been backed up for a couple days but the team managed to get lucky and got out on time.

Last night in Kathmandu the team had a farewell celebration dinner at the Rum Doodle restaurant. The Everest summitters enjoyed a free meal since they made it to the top. However, we all know getting to the top is not what mountaineering is about. All the stages in between is when we learn about ourselves through the challenges we face.

As a side note: Gene Rehfeld says, "hello Jenna and classmates in San Antonio from Grandpa on Mount Everest".

I would again like to congratulate Willie Beneges, Gary Ponder, Gene Rehfeld, Murray Rice, Phenden Sherpa, Undi Sherpa, and Mingma Sherpa for their amazing accomplishments during this expedition. I would also like to thank Kili Sherpa, Rishi Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Mila Sherpa, and out entire cooking staff for their dedicated work. This Everest 2004 Mountain Madness Evpedition could not have been possible without these people.

Dispatch #44 - May 20, 2004

The Mountain Madness team has been packing up all of our personal and group gear and getting ready to head back to Kathmandu. The mood here is turning somewhat sad since the farewells are getting close. Base Camp is a small enough place that in two months there are friendships that build. Tonight we have a party with all the sherpas to celebrate the mountain and the success of the whole entire teem. Hopefully, the party will not go too late since we have to hike quite a way tomorrow. I will send one more dispatch in Kathmandu, so until then...

Dispatch #43 - May 19, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. The Mountain Madness team made it to Base Camp at 10:00 am this morning, greeted with cokes and a huge meal. They also very much enjoyed the cake. Today the guys cleaned up and are now resting. Our plan is to begin the trek out on the 21st. and will be in Kathmandu on the 24th. to enjoy a real toilet and shower, among other things.

Dispatch #42 - May 18, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. The whole Mountain Madness team made it down to Camp 2 around 1:30 pm today. Everyone feels great but they are definitely tired from what they have just put their bodies through. They plan to leave Camp 2 in the morning at 5:00 am to be back to Base Camp around 9:00 am. The reason for leaving so early is because the days are getting much warner lately and the Ice Fall is much safer earlier in the day before the sun starts to melt things. They are also just simply ready to be back to Base Camp to prepare to leave. We have been here a long time and it will be nice for everyone to get a change of scenery even thought the scenery is amazing in this place. Today on the radio the guys were passing it around to ask for different food requests when they get back to Base. They asked for eggs, bacon (can't do that), frech toast, pancakes, and even chocolate cake. They will be happy because I was already planning on making a cake for their arrival...

Trekkers Dispatch - May 17, 2004
Everest Base Camp Support Trekkers Dispatch!

This is Casey Henley reporting from the Thamel region of Kathmandu! The trekking group is back in Kathmandu and enjoying some last minute shopping before heading home. Last night we enjoyed our celebration dinner at the famous Chimney Room Restaurant. The trekkers would like to congratulate all the climbers on their success! They were saddened to hear of Gary's need to turn around but happy that he was safe and making the right decision for him. It's amazing that he made it back to Everest and where he did after his potentially crippling injury two years ago! Good job to everyone.

The trekkers arrived in Nepal with the goals of climbing Kala Pattar and making it to Everest Base Camp. They realized these goals but in doing so they also realized there is so much more to Nepal than Mount Everest! They made connections with our local staff. They trekked through beautiful rhododendron forests, over roaring mountain rivers and amongst beautiful peaks they had never heard of. As they walked through mountain villages, they saw the happy smiling faces of the Sherpas and experienced the friendliness that has made these people so famous. They realized how happy these people are without much in the way of possessions. Remember: It is the sides of the mountains that sustain life and allow things to grow, not the tops.

They truly experienced this region of Nepal!

A trip like this also has lessons that they will take home. Many times on the trip I heard Anne, Warren, Ricardo and Giuliano expressing that this trip has helped add clarity in what and who is important to them back home. A fresh look at things from stretching their comfort zones...from stepping out of their norms! Great job to all the trekkers this year for "Living their Dreams". I hope to see you out trekking and climbing in the near future. I know you will all get the bug again sometime soon!

Cheers, Casey Henley

Dispatch #41 - May 17, 2004

Summit Day 2:45 pm

This is Sarah Henley reporting. The Mountain Madness team successfully made it safely back to Camp 4. They will stay the night at Camp 4 breathing oxygen while regaining some strength back from the strenuous day they have had. All team members are doing great other than very exhausted. I suspect they will go to sleep very soon.

I would like to congratulate the whole team, once again, for doing an incredible job!!!

Dispatch #40 - May 17, 2004

Summit Day 8:40 am

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp.

I am very happy to inform you the Gene Rehfeld, Murray Rice, Willie Benegas, Undi Sherpa, and Mingma Sherpa made it to "the top of the world" at 8:40 am this morning. We had an exciting night at Base Camp awaiting their calls to hear their progress. They made great time from Camp 4 to the summit in eleven and a half hours. We will be keeping tabs on the team during their descent which we know will also be a strenuous and challenging part of the climb. However, they are in good shape because they have a full day of daylight. I will send an update when they get back to Camp 4.

Congratulations to the Mountain Madness team of 2004!!!

Dispatch #39 - May 17, 2004

Summit Day 6:30 am

This is Sarah Henley reporting. Willie, Murray, Gene, Undi, and Mingma have arrived to South Summit. There is some low fog but they are above the clouds. They reported that there is practically no wind to speak of - great news! They are all tired but are hanging in there. At this point they head to the Hillary Step and then it is not too far to the top. I would expect them to be at the summit in an hour or two. I will continue to give updates.

Gary and Phendon made it back to Camp 4 and are warm and resting in tents .

Dispatch #38 - May 17, 2004

Summit Day 9:00 pm

The Mountain Madness team left the South Col. around 9 pm. They all seemed in good spirits but anxious for the unknown.

I just heard from Willie at the Balcony, which is amazing timing (five and a half hours). Gene, Murray, Undi Sherpa, and Mingme Sherpa are with him and are feeling strong. Gary and Phendon Sherpa turned around about a half hour ago. When I hear that they are back to Camp 4 I will send an update. The next time I will hear from Willie is when they are at the South Summit. With the time they are making I would expect that to be in four or five hours.

Dispatch #37 - May 16, 2004



Summit Day

This is Sarah Henley reporting form Base Camp. I just got word from Willie at Camp 4 and they are all attempting to rest. Gene and Gary are feeling good. Murray feels good but he is a little tired from the day. At this point Murray's crampon seems to be holding so we'll just hope it stays that way. Their departure time from Camp 4 for the summit is 9:00 pm tonight. Willie will try to radio sometime during the night to give an update but it can be challenging to stop when they are in a huge line up of people all going to the same place. He will definitely call us at Base Camp when they reach the Balcony and then again at the South Summit before they get to the Hillary Step. We will also of course hear from them when and if they reach the summit sometime in the morning. I will keep you posted...

Dispatch #36 - May 16, 2004

This morning the Mountain Madness climbers left Camp 3 at 7:30 am for the South Col., also known as Camp 4. Gary and Gene reached the Yellow Band at 11:00 am and then continued on to the Col. arriving around 3:00 pm. Murray was quite a bit behind them on account of his crampon breaking again. They managed to fix it and Willie waited for him to get to the Yellow Band. Willie and Murray arrived at Camp 4 around 4:00 pm. When I spoke to them this morning everyone was feeling as well as expected. I asked Murray how he was feeling and he said, "things are good for all things considered". I thought this was a perfect response because once you get to these elevations everyone will and expects to feel a little off. Last night they slept with oxygen and other than it being awkward I think they all managed to sleep some. Today climbing to Camp 4 was their first time actually moving while breathing oxygen. This can be very challenging at first because ones breathing pattern has to completely change, the dry air can cause a sore throat, and the mask limits ones vision. Now they are all trying to rest as best as possible before they head to the summit tonight. Gary will be climbing with Phendan Sherpa, Gene is climbing with Undi Sherpa, and Murray will climb with Mingma Sherpa.

This morning I got word that there were 20 people on the summit around 9:30 am and there were more folks waiting below to get their turn. There was also another 20 to 30 people still on their way up. Twenty people on the top of Mount Everest is definitely tight. The route up to the top last night was one huge highway which can make it difficult for individuals to find their own personal pace. In a lot of places it is not as simple as just passing someone slower than you. We have been told here at Base Camp that the route is not all the way fixed with lines. The past two summit rounds have not been using fixed lines for some of the way past Camp 4. Willie is aware of this and he intends to be ahead of the rest of our guys and will fix lines where needed. I will be in touch more frequently when they begin their summit attemp tonight!

Dispatch #36 - May 15, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. Around 11:00 am this morning Gary, Gene, Murray , and Willie arrived to Camp 3. They are feeling good and are getting ready to go to sleep for the night. Tonight they will be sleeping with oxygen to help conserve energy for the climb. From now on they will be breathing oxygen for the duration of the climb or until they are descending past Camp 4 or Camp 3. The weather has been stable for the past few days except for some afternoon clouds and variable wind. These afternoon clouds and winds are very normal which is why people climb through the night and plan to summit in the morning hours before the weather comes in. The forecast says this consistent weather will continue for a while which is good news for us. Tomorrow the guys get up early in the morning to begin the first part of the climb to Camp 4. They will then rest for the day before the big summit push.

This morning at varying times some folks from each of the teams climbing got to the top of Mount Everest. There were apparently some climbers who turned around because of different reasons some of which being wind, altitude and fatigue.

Here at Base Camp it is like a ghost town. Those of us who are holding down the fort are trying to wait patiently, close to the radios, for any news we hear about the climbers who reached the top today. More to come later...

Dispatch #35 - May 14, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. The Mountain Madness Team is still resting at Camp 2 getting ready to climb to Camp 3 early in the morning. Everyone had a relaxing day and are ready to move up on the mountain tomorrow.

Today about 40 people climbed to Camp 4, at the South Col., and will begin their summit attempt tonight between 9:00 and midnight. If all goes well they will all summit in the morning of the 15th. This is good news for us because this means less people on the route while our team is climbing. In some of the years past many of the teams try to summit at the same time and it can be a huge traffic jam. The Mountain Madness team will be trying for the summit, on the morning of the 17th, at the same time as five other groups. We will be with the Spanish team which has three climbers, the Irish which has 2 climbers, the Swiss that consists of two climbers, the International team which has eleven climbers, and the David Brashers team which has quite a bit of folks because they have a whole film crew with them. These numbers are not counting all the the climbing sherpas. There could be about 40 - 50 people counting Mountain Madness, the rest of the teams, and sherpas on the mountain that same day. This seems like a lot but actually it is quite reasonable.

Everest Support Trekkers Dispatch, May 14

Hello from Namche Bazaar! This is Casey Henley reporting. Today is a rest day in Namche as everyone was "antsy" to get back as soon as possible! We walked from Pheriche yesterday and everyone enjoyed the ever "thickening air"! Everyone has elected to stay in the best lodge in Namche and are on their 3rd or 4th showers! I think that everyone is already in the celebrating mood! This has been an amazing trip for everyone and the Nepali staff have worked very hard to create an unforgettable experience. Tomorrow we will hike to Lukla and spend the night there before the memorable flight back to Kathmandu. More details from Kathmandu in a couple days.

Dispatch #34 -May 13, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. I got up this morning, at 5 am, to bid the Mountain Madness team farewell on their attempted journey, to the top of the world. The sherpas, the second half of the team, will leave tomorrow because they would rather sleep at Base Camp than at Camp 2 for two nights. This morning, other than a little foggy eyed, everyone was feeling great but I think still feeling the anticipation of what's to come. They all arrived safely to Camp 2 in the early afternoon today. Now their job is to eat and relax as much as possible for the next day and a half. After their rest day at Camp 2 tomorrow they have a long couple days ahead of them... During their summit attempt (beginning around 9 pm on the 16th in Nepal, this would be the morning of the 16th in North America) I will be sending more frequent dispatches - so stay tuned !!!

Dispatch #33 - May 12, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. Tomorrow morning, May 13th, the 2004 Mountain Madness Everest Team, consisting of Willie Benegas, Gary Ponder, Gene Rehfeld and Murray Rice, leave Base Camp for their summit attempt. The schedule is still the same as I wrote in one of the last dispatches. This morning while having breakfast there was lots of anticipation building amongst the team. The team has of course been to camp 3 but past that is the unknown, other than Willie. "The unknown is what makes me the most nervous for what is to come", Gene said. The guys were tossing so many questions towards Willie it was difficult for him to keep up. Willie's response was mainly, "you three are as ready as you could ever be. The rest is out of your hands except the one problem is you are thinking too much!" After those wise words of advice they all seemed to relax a little and were not thinking too hard. The consensus between the guys is that they could never explain what they are experiencing right now. They are all nervous, excited, anxious and mostly ready to get started...

Dispatch #32 - May 13, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. Well, this is rest day number two before the big summit attempt. They have one more rest day tomorrow before they head up on the 13th, for the summit. Gary, Gene and Murray took a walk down to Gorek Shep today to get their legs moving. Rest days are so important but it is also difficult because everyone tends to get antsy and bored. This morning Casey took the trekking group to the ice fall and gave a great glaciology talk which they all seemed to enjoy. There are three to five groups attempting the summit a couple days before our team and these are the folks that will be setting the fixed lines up to the summit. At the same time our team is going for the top there are four other groups going to be there, which will be a pretty reasonable number. Sometimes summit day can be a total cluster because most of the teams head up around the same time but this year there are a lot of teams on a summit schedule of about three or four days later than us. Willie says, having less people summiting at once makes summit day much less stressful! All of this is assuming the weather cooperates as planned...

Summit Schedule:
May 13 - Go to camp 2 to sleep that night.
May 14 - Rest day at camp 2.
May 15 - Climb Lotse Face to camp 3. They will sleep there this night with oxygen.
May 16 - Hike to camp 4, hopefully by noon. Between 9 and 11 pm this day leave for the summit.
May 17 - Summit between 7 and 10 am. They will then sleep at the South Col. arriving between 2 and 4 pm.
May 18 - Be back to camp 2 between 3 and 4 pm.
May 19 - Be back to base camp sometime in the afternoon.

Dispatch #31 - May 10, 2004

(Trekking Group Dispatch): This is Casey Henley reporting from the Mountain Madness base camp here at Mount Everest! The second group of trekkers has arrived at B.C. and are in great spirits. Everyone successfully climbed 18,300 ft. (5550 m.) Kala Patar yesterday and got great views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and the other surrounding peaks. The climbers are preparing for their final summit push and the trekkers are enjoying meeting and spending time with them. The climbers, in turn, are enjoying meeting and talking with some fresh faces! Tomorrow we will walk to the edge of the famous Khumbu Icefall and do a little lesson on mountain features, glaciology and just talk some about climbing. This will be the high point of the trip for the trekkers. In two days time we will be starting our return trip to Kathmandu via the incredible villages of the Everest region. We will leave the high alpine regions and slowly descend to the warmer, green river valleys. Congratulations to Warren McInteer, Anne Music and the father/son team, Ricardo and Giuliano DeMarchi for following their dreams and doing one of the trips of a lifetime! Good luck to the climbers.

Dispatch #30 - May 8, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. Well, this is the official beginning of the "rest and wait" period before the team goes for the summit. Willie, Gary, Gene, and Murray made it back to base camp early afternoon today and all are in good spirits. They are definitely ready for a few days rest. These next rest days are very critical for what is ahead so they will be doing a lot of eating and sleeping, and pretty much nothing.

Dispatch #29 - May 7, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. The team is heading down to camp 2 after a successful night at camp 3. Folks had a challenging time sleeping and breathing but everyone is doing fine. They are all thrilled they are almost finished with the acclimatization process before the rest and wait moment before the summit attempt.

INTERVIEW WITH MINGMA SHERPA:

Sarah: What village are you from? Mingma: I am from the Solo Khumbu Hsariksola just below Lukla

Sarah: What is your climbing experience? Mingma: I have taken a Basic Mountain Training and Advanced Training through Nepal Mountain Ass. I have also taken a Guide Training from the government. I was a trekking sherpa for four years before I became a climbing sherpa in 2001. I always wanted to be a climbing sherpa especially because my older brother, Phendan, (on this trip) was one.

Sarah: How many times have you climbed Everest? Mingma: I have climbed Everest five times and summited four times.

Sarah: What is it like being away from your family for such long periods of time? Mingma: I miss my parents very much when I am away. They worry about me.

Sarah: What are your thought about working for Mountain Madness? Mingma: This is my first time working for Mountain Madness and my second time working with Willie. I like it very much.

Dispatch #28 - May 6, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. I just got word from the team and they made it safely to camp 3. It sounds like all members are tired but feeling healthy. They will be spending one night there and then back down to camp 2 tomorrow night. In the morning if everyone is feeling up to it they will head up to the Yellow Band before going down to camp 2. They have a few oxygen bottles for emergency but the plan is not to use any ox this time while at camp 3. By doing this, they greatly improve their acclimatization process, however, can make it more difficult to sleep. When they sleep at camp three during their summit push they will use ox to conserve energy once they arrive camp 3.

Dispatch # 27 - May 5, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. I got word from Casey Henley, guide, about the second Everest Base Camp trek. The trekking group consists of Anne Music (Dallas Texas), Warren McInteer (American living in Scotland), Ricardo and Giuliano DeMarchi (father and son from Brazil).

The trek has gone well so far and the weather is getting better! The clients enjoyed dining and shopping in Thamel and going for a city tour of the various Hindu and Buddhist religious sites, in Kathmandu. The flight in to Lukla was exciting with a major air turbulence "bump" that had everyone 1 or 2 feet in the air out of their seats! Yikes. A few other passengers didn't keep their breakfast down! May 3rd was a rest day in Namche and the group hiked above the town to get the famous first views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Everyone is feeling great and having a fantastic time. During their stay, in Namche, they will also visit the sherpa museum. After that it will take them another week or so to get to base camp, arriving on May 10th.

Dispatch #26 -May 4, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. I just got word from the guys and they made it to camp 2 in about seven hours. This is such great time! They will have a rest day there tomorrow then the next day head up to camp 3 to sleep for one night. The winds are still quite strong up there so lets hope they die down soon.

INTERVIEW WITH MURRAY RICE:

Sarah: What is life like at Everest? Murray: Lots of time spent acclimatizing with some climbing in between. Views are good. Lots of reading. Many comforts at Base Camp like showers and a heater in the mess tent. The food is good.

Sarah: What were your expectations of the Lotse Face? Murray: Moderately steep unrelenting ice. I've been there before in 1987.

Sarah: Now that you have been there what has been your experience of the Lotse Face? Murray: Since, one of my crampons broke and I was unable to do much on the face, the initial experience was a disappointment.

Sarah: How has the altitude effected you in comparison to what you thought? Murray: About the same. I remember being altitude sick for about a month straight in 1987 and its been about the same this time.

Sarah: When you are up on the mountain do you look forward to coming back to base camp? Why? Murray: Sometimes, to avoid the cold or to be less affected by the altitude, and just to change camps.

Sarah: What is is like for you to have the sherpas part of the climbing team? Murray: Its good. There is a security in having their strength, endurance, and experience on the team.

Sarah: Name a special quality of one of the sherpas. Murray: Phendan, Mingma, and Undi all have the characteristics as above. Plus, they are all good natured and helpful.

Sarah: Share a funny experience you have had on this trip. Murray: Let me think on that.

Sarah: Why Everest??? Murray: Its a big climb.

Sarah: Any words of wisdom to friends and family back home. Murray: I'll be back before you know it.

INTERVIEW WITH NEMA UNDI SHERPA: Sarah: What village are you from? Undi: The village of Kharichola, the same as Phendan.

Sarah: What is your climbing experience? Undi: I have taken a Basic Mountain Training course through the Mountain Association of Kathmandu. This course covered rock and ice. I became a climbing sherpa in 1998. Before that I was a kitchen boy for trekking trips.

Sarah: How many times have you climbed Everest? Undi: I have climbed Everest five times but only sumitted once. Most of those times I had to bring clients down.

Sarah: What is it like being away from your family for such long periods of time? Undi: I live with my mother and when I am away I miss her very much.

Sarah: What are your thought about working for Mountain Madness? Undi: This is my first time working for Mountain Madness and it is good. I have worked with Willie four times.

Dispatch #25 - May 2, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. Sorry the dispatches are backed up be a couple days but we have been having some technical difficulties. What can you expect at almost 18,000 ft. in the middle of the mountains.

It turns out, today and tomorrow, the team is having two more rest days. The winds are just too strong up on the mountain for anyone to be going up. The plan is to head to camp 2 and then camp 3, to sleep, on May 4th if this wind dies down. This has turned out being a good thing because Willie and I came down with a horrible stomach bug. I will not gross you out with the details but it was not pretty! However, things seem to be looking up at this point. The others in our camp have managed to stay clear of whatever we had and lets hope it stays that way. This bug seems to be going around all of base camp so we weren't the only ones hit. The good news is it lasts only about 24 hours!

Happy mothers day to all those mothers out there, especially to Marjorie, Dora, Joyce and Linda! We are thinking of you!!!

Dispatch #24 - May 1, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp...

INTERVIEW WITH GENE REHFELD: Sarah: What is life like at Everest? Gene: It's fun but when we are sitting around I get bored. I like to always be doing something so sitting around is tough.

Sarah: What were your expectations of the Lotse Face? Gene: I heard that it was pretty steep which turned out being true.

Sarah: Now that you have been there what has been your experience of the Lotse Face? Gene: It is not that different than what I expected. However, it is longer than what I thought and the altitude definitely makes me tired up there. The first time I did it there was so much snow on the way down and this made it so much harder.

Sarah: How has the altitude effected you in comparison to what you thought? Gene: The altitude does not effect me so much other than making me a little more tired. I have not had any bad headaches yet on this whole trip. I do notice when I head back down to base camp it is much easier to breath. I am worried about getting sick because in 2001 I was on Choyu and had to back off because of some bad sickness. I was still sick for a couple weeks once I got home. So far on this trip all is well!

Sarah: When you are up on the mountain do you look forward to coming back to base camp? Why? Gene: Yes, because base camp feels like home. Although, I do dread all those rest days. We also get pretty good food here at base. The othernight we had roast duck and stuffed white asparagus from Spain!

Sarah: What is is like for you to have the sherpas part of the climbing team? Gene: It is definitely a confidence booster for me because they are in such a different climbing class than us.

Sarah: Name a special quality of one of the sherpas. Gene: Undi Sherpa is a very small person in size (about 130 lbs.) and can carry huge loads without being phased. The best part about is he always has a smile on his face.

Sarah: Share a funny experience you have had on this trip. Gene: On our way up here, in Labotche, I woke up in the morning and got tp to go to the rest room. Well, I could not see and I started to freak out and thought something was going seriously wrong with my eyes. I was sure the trip was over for me. When I got back to the room I discovered I had put Gary's' glasses on, not mine. Everyone continues to tease me about this!

Sarah: Why Everest??? Gene: Because it is there...Also now that I am not tied down with family and I am not getting any younger this is my chance.

Sarah: Any words of wisdom to friends and family back home. Gene: Steve, if I make this goal I am holding you to your end of the bargain.

INTERVIEW WITH PHENDEN SHERPA: Sarah: What village are you from? Phenden: I come from Kharichola. This villiage is a days walk below Lukla.

Sarah: What is your climbing experience? Phenden: Attempted Choyu five tims and summit twice, climbed Ama Deblam, taken Basic Mountain Training Course through the Nepal Mountaineering Association, taken Advanced Mountain Training Course by US instructor, and climbed many trekking peaks in Nepal.

Sarah: How many times have you climbed Everest? Phenden: I have attempted Everest seven times. I have officially summitted twice and two other times I was close but had to take clients down before we reached the top.

Sarah: How did you become a climbing sherpa? Phenden: I always wanted this since I was a little boy. In 1993 I became a trekking sherpa and then in 1997 I became a full climbing sherpa.

Sarah: What is it like being away from your family for such long periods of time? Phenden: Before I was married and had children it was no big deal. Now I miss them very much and it is hard but this is how I make money for them.

Sarah: What are your thought about working for Mountain Madness? Phenden: I like working for Mountain Madness. This is my first time working for this company but it is my fourth time working with Willie.

Dispatch #23 - April 30, 2004

Sarah Henley reporting from Base Camp. Today Willie put the guys through a challenging experience. Yesterday I mentioned Willie and Phendan Sherpa were fixing an imaginary Hillary Step for practice. Well, they had a chance to practice today. This is a good idea for a few reasons. First, the Step is steeper terrain than they will have seen yet on the mountain. Second, Willie had them warring their big goggles and oxygen masks during the practice because there is nothing quite like it. Gary said, " it is amazing how much sight you loose warring that stuff. You can't even see your feet right in front of you". So you can imagine the importance of getting used to this, or at least as much as one ever could, before summit day. Lastly, the Hillary Step gets clogged up with people because at that point in the climb folks are slowing down because of the altitude and the terrain is more challenging. Willie simulated this experience by pulling and tugging on the rope below them. From what I have been told it can be like a huge traffic jam. If people had horns they would be honking them. Gene said, "Willie put us through hell, but I know we need to experience what it will be like as best as possible".

After this activity all four of our team members crawled into their tents for an afternoon nap. Tomorrow they have one more rest day before they begin their assent to camp 3. This will be the last bit of the acclimatization process.

Dispatch #22 - April 29, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from base camp. Well, even thought this was a rest day it turned out being a fairly active day. Gene, Gary and Murray took a hike down towards Gorak Shep. They were interested in moving their legs. However, it is nice to leave base camp for a change of scenery. This place can definitely become to feel some what of a bubble. While they were out Willie and Phenden Sherpa scouted around the lower part of the ice fall for a good spot to simulate the Hillary Step. Apparently, they found a great area and fixed some ropes for the guys to practice tomorrow. More on that later!

After lunch Willie, Gene, the sherpas and I organized a bunch of food for camp 3 and 4. The camp 4 food is set aside for their summit attempt. Now everyone is resting in their tents listening to the snow fall. Yes, it is snowing again! It has been snowing most everyday for the past week and a half, mostly while I was gone. Folks who have been here year after year say this weather is unusual. Lets just hope it is getting it all out of it's system and things will turn around in May...

Dispatch #21 - April 28, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Basecamp. The guys seemed to manage ok without me! Since I have been away from base for ten days I needed to be filled in with what has been going on around here. I'll do my best to update you up until now.

On the 17th the crew came back from camp 1 for a few days rest. Once they recovered they headed back up but this time they slept at camp 2 for five nights. Camp 2 is at 6400 meters. Gene and Gary made it up the Lotse Face to camp 3, which is 7000 meters. Murray unfortunately did not quite make it that far on account of one of his crampons breaking. He had to go back to camp 2 with one crampon. It has now been fixed so hopefully it holds.

The team came down from camp 2 yesterday. The plan now is to rest for four days and then make their way to camp 3 to sleep for a night or two.. After sleeping at camp 3 they rest at base and then wait for a window of good weather to try for the summit.

All the members are healthy and seem to be in great spirits which is a great sign at this stage. Apparently, since I have been away the Ice Fall has been very active with bits and pieces (often big) falling everyday. As the team was walking through a large section, about an hour later, collapsed after they had passed. The "Ice Doctor" and whoever else will contribute have been re-fixing lines and ladders daily. There is actually a sherpa who is nick-named the "Ice Doc" and he is a legend here. All this activity in the Fall means the teams need to move as quickly as possible throughout this section. This is not a place to hang out and wait for something to fall on you. Gary, Gene, and Murray have cut their time in the Ice Fall by two hours, from seven hours the first time to now being five hour. This time cut is only to their safety advantage!

Dispatch #20 - April 20, 2004

From a conversation with Willie Benegas, guide (10:30 A.M. April 20, 2004):

The group is reported to be doing well. Tomorrow they will begin the final stage of their acclimatization process with a move to Camp 1. The plan is to spend a night there before moving up to Camp 2 where they will spend several nights. From there it’s a move to Camp 3 and one overnight there before moving back down to basecamp and the final big rest and preparation for the climb. They hope to summit according to a schedule that puts them on top on May 16. There will be a break in dispatches for a few days, so look for more in about a week, or so. In the meantime, wish the group luck and good weather.

Dispatch #19 - April 16, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base camp. This morning our sherpas left base at five in the morning to carry loads up to camp 2. They were back at base camp by 1 pm - I told you they were fast! The rest of the team awoke when the sun hit their tents at camp 1. They said there were periodic winds but when it was calm it was quite warm. Willie, Gary and Gene (who is apparently feeling better) headed out late morning for camp 2. Murray opted to stay at camp 1 for the day as he is feeling a cold come on. As a matter of fact, this cold seems to be going around. By now, the rest of the guys should be hiking back to camp for one more night there and then back to base tomorrow.

As for myself, I am heading out in the morning to do some of my own climbing for about ten days. In the mean time, Willie and the others will send dispatches when they can. Until then...

Dispatch #18 - April 15, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from base camp once again. At five this morning Willie, Gary, Murray, and Gene left base camp for camp 1, along with all of our sherpas. Tonight the team, less the sherpas, will camp there. Sherpas generally come back to sleep at base camp until later on in the climb. First of all, they do this because it is better on one's body to sleep at a lower elevation. Second, their bodies are already so acclimatized they do not need to go through the same process as others. Thirdly, because they can (they are so darn fast). These guys can go from base camp to camp 2 and back to base faster than most can go from base camp to camp 1. They do not get the credit they deserve. We always hear about the first this and the first that to summit Everest but we rarely here about the amazing Sherpa people who generally are the ones who make it happen or are at least a huge part. These are the folks who carry all the huge loads up to the different camps so the teams have food and gear up on the mountain. I am just in awe of the sherpas everyday!

Tomorrow our team will hike to Camp 2, for the first time, and then go back to Camp 1 to sleep for a second and maybe third night. This all depends on the weather and the well being of the team members. Once they are back to base they will have a few days rest.

Not too long ago I heard from Willie on the radio. They had just topped out of the ice fall and had about an hour left till camp 1. The report is that the wind is a little strong. This does not surprise me because the tents are getting quite a beating here at base. He also said the conditions in the ice fall were fantastic this morning.

Apparently, Gene has a little stomach bug and may come back to base today with a sherpa to get well. It is tough to recover from anything at high altitude so it is best to rest at base camp. Not to worry because Gene is very strong. I myself woke up with something this morning - it must be going around. The rest of the team is feeling and doing great, lets hope it stays that way.

Dispatch #17 - April 13, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from base camp. This morning we woke to a good amount of snow on the ground and our tents. Base camp with snow is just beautiful. Our sherpa team were planning on carrying loads today, to camp 2, but that trip was canceled because of the snow. The ice fall can become pretty hairy after a few inches. Once the snow begins to melt ice starts to move and traveling through the fall becomes dangerous. People do it but it is better to wait a day.

Today everyone is relaxing after their long day to camp 1 and back. Tomorrow they will do the same!

Dispatch #16 - April 12, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. I can say today was the first official day the team began climbing Mount Everest. After an early wake-up they hiked through the entire Khumbu Ice Fall and continued to camp 1, at 19,900 feet. Since it is their first time past 18,000 ft., this expedition, they came back to base camp to sleep and rest.

Willie is in high spirits and full of energy as usual. The rest of the guys seem good but are very hungry and tired.

The route this year through the ice fall is much longer than previous years but much safer. The report is there are some beautiful turquoise blue formations. Willie also describes some sections as "popcorn ice", the size of cars and busses.

The most exciting ladder in the whole fall is not one ladder, not two ladders, but six ladders tied together at about 80 degrees, which crosses at the top of the ice fall. These are 12 ft. ladders whice means this particular system was about 60 ft. long. Gary said this part was definitely exciting and scary all at once. "The best part was knowing it was almost the end of the ice fall. That is what helped me across that ladder," he said.

The next two days are rest days which is about what it will take to recover from this long day!

Dispatch #15 - April 11, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Everest Base Camp. Yesterday the trekkers headed down to some thicker air while the climbers stayed at base for another rest day. At this stage in the game the acclimatization process is so critical. This is why they are having another rest day today.

Rest days at Base Camp consist of bathing, laundry, eating and lots of napping. Although, yesterday the team helped make a new helicopter pad for emergency evacuations. At almost 18,000 ft it was a difficult task moving around huge rocks and boulders. Needless to say there was a bit of resting amongst the rock moving.

In the morning the group will head up to camp 1. While the team has been resting for the past two days our climbing sherpas have been carrying loads to Camp 1. Our climbing sherpas consist of Phendon Sherpa, Migma Sherpa and Nima Undi Sherpa. Willie has climbed with these particular Sherpas several times and apparently they come highly recommended. Although, I am not sure there are any climbing sherpas that are not highly reguarded!

Dispatch #14 - April 9, 2004

Sarah Henley reporting from base camp- After a nice mellow morning with the group, Willie, Gary, Gene, and Murray went into the Khumbu Icefall for the first time this trip. Willie of course has been through the maze of ice and crevasses many times. Today Gene experienced it for the first time. During an attempt in 2002, Gary made into the icefall but injured his leg while climbing on some ice. His injury put an end to the trip, so he is excited to be back this year and anxious to get to work on the mountain. Today then, Gary made his personal best on Everest! For Murray this is familiar terrain from a previous expedition that got him to the south col one day from the summit.

The trekkers hiked to the base of the ice fall and watched a train of climbers navigate through the icefall. An impressive sight for all! Casey Henley gave a glaciology and mountain features talk at the base of the icefall for those unfamiliar with this unique environment, set in the best classroom you can imagine. Tonight is the final night for the whole group being together. After saying their goodbyes to the climbers in the morning the trekkers will begin their four day hike back to Lukla, complete with memories to last a lifetime.

Dispatch# 13 - April 8, 2004

Sarah Henley reporting from Everest base camp at approximately 17,600'. The whole crew, trekkers and climbers, have finally made it to the point where the adventure begins for some and ends for others. For most of the group this is the highest they have ever been or at least the highest they have slept. When the trekking group arrived this morning, the Puja ceremony had begun. A Lama came all the way to base camp from the village of Tengboche to bless the climbers and the gear they will be using on the mountain for good luck and a safe climb. Climbers and trekkers alike were blessed with flowers and doused with water all over their heads and faces. Everyone sang and danced while sipping whisky, beer and coke. The rest of the day consisted of much logistical organization of base camp for climbers, which is a very elaborate setup. Basecamp is complete with communication centers, tents everywhere, climbing hardware and food strewn about and being prepared, and people from all over the world in a high state of anxiety and excitement of the climb ahead.

Dispatch #12 - April 7, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Gorak Shep at 16,962 ft. Today we hiked from our lovely campsite to Gorak Shep. Upon reaching Gorak Shep, we ascended to 18,373 ft. Kala Pattar, which means “the black rock” in Hindi. This is the most popular viewpoint in the area for Everest and the Khumbu Icefall. From the top, we spotted Everest basecamp and the many covered tents in the distance. After a late lunch, everyone retired to their tents. Hiking Kala Pattar definitely took it out of people. Everyone is feeling the effects of the thin air but excited about reaching such an elevation and enjoying the incredible views.

Tomorrow we arrive to basecamp just in time for the puja – a spiritual ceremony to wish the climbers a safe travel up the mountain that is performed by a Buddhist Lama.

Dispatch #11 - April 6, 2004

This is Sara Henley reporting from just above Pheriche at 16,430 ft.

This morning we woke to a gorgeous blue sky and had a great two hour hike. We are definitely in the most beautiful camp spot to date --- right in the middle of a sandy basin beside the lateral moraine along the Khumbu Glacier. The beautiful morning views have now given way to an afternoon storm.

Tomorrow we climb Kala Pattar which stands at 18,373 ft. overlooking the Everest basecamp. Here we will have the premier view of the highest mountain in the world. While the trekkers climb Kala Pattar, the climbers plan to hike to basecamp to get settled for their exciting journey ahead. The trekkers will catch-up with their rest in a day at base camp. (Message may have cut off.)

Dispatch #10 - April 5, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Dzugla at 15,100feet today is the third day in a row we have had afternoon snow. We wake to beautiful blue skies and then the clouds roll in after lunch.

The hike was short today so everyone was able to climb into their tents once the weather rolled in.

The climbers continued on past luboche where they plan to spend the next two nights. The trekking group will meet them there tomorrow.

Many new peaks came into view today. Taboche, Lhotse, and first glimpse of Pimore Pimore sits high above base camp and is a sight we will become accustomed to.



Dispatch #9 - April 4, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Dingboche. This has been the best rest day. Everyone has had the opporutnity to wash some clothes and almost everyone had hot showers.

The sun has been out most of the day and allowing us to see some amazing views. A few folks took a hike up a hill behind the village to see the vast views and to continue the acclimatization process.

On the hike we learned the 5 colors of the prayer flags and what they represent. Blue is sky, red is fire, green is water, yellow is earth, white is wind and mountain.

From the hike we were able to see Makalu Mt. one of the 14 - 8000 meter peaks. We were also able to see Island Peak one of the most popular trekking peaks.

We unfortunately have a few members of our group who are under the weather. They are doing their best to take it easy. At least we have a short hike tomorrow with only a 600 feet elevation gain.

We are all learning fast that getting sick in Nepal is just something you have to deal with, it is a small price to pay.

Dispatch #8 - April 3, 2004

The first part of this day's dispatch was accidently erased...sorry, Here Sarah continues.....

Tomorrow we have a rest day in Dingboche to help the group acclimitize. Although we will have an optional hike scheduled to help with the acclimitization process. I imagine we will have folks taking showers and naps as well.

I can definitely say the group is ready for a relaxing day in Dingboche.

Dispatch #7 - April 2, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Tangboche, 12,664 feet.

After a well deserved rest day at Namche Bazaar. The group was ready to head back to the trail.

Before we got too far we visited the Sherpa Museum. We toured through a traditional Sherpa home and walked through the Sherpa hall of fame.

We hiked 1000 feet down to the dudcozy river and hiked back up again 1400 feet travelling through beautiful rhodendron forest. During the hike the clouds settled, obscuring our views.

I would imagine we will be able to see some beautiful mountains in the morning.

Dispatch #6 - April 1 ,2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting again from Namche Bazaar. I thought I may do an April fools joke today but then I decided to refrain from stressing anyone out! It was a beautiful day! The sun was out and the views are amazing. We awoke to the pleasant sounds of the giant horns the monks blow and enjoyed a mellow breakfast.

Some of the members hiked up the hillside above the town to see Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar and many other Himalayan peaks. Others used their rest day to relax and explore the town. There are great souvenir shops, mountain shops, bakerys and internet cafes. It is hard to believe there is so much going on here considering anyone who journeys this way must walk! I'm happy to say the shop-keepers made a little money today!

Dispatch #5 - March 31st, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Namche Bazaar. The hike to Namche is one of the bigger days of the trek with a significant elevation gain at the end of the day. A few people were a little tired but all enjoyed the beautiful views. During the day we traveled through numerous Sherpa villages and had a great time meeting the small children of the region who would come running to play with us. The people of the area have such a beautiful aura about them and I wish I could put it into words! Everyone we encounter make us feel so welcomed.

As we followed the path along the Dudh Kosi River we crossed a number of suspension bridges high above the river. Also, mani stones are all along the trail which demonstrate the importance of the Buddhist Religion.

Our hot lunch was spent by the riverside sitting and lying out in the sun before our long uphill trudge to Namche. After having porters half our size carrying four to five times our loads pass us on the huge climb, we relaxed at the tea house while the local staff set up our tents and cooked another delicious meal.

It began to snow a little and as a result we should have a dusting on the mountains tomorrow to make the views even more spectacular on our rest day.

Dispatch #4 - March 30th, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Phakding. Today was very exciting especially our flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. We took a small Twin Otter plane. The runway in Lukla is about 600 ft. long and is on an incline directly into a mountain cliff, to help the plane slow down . Of course, now you can understand why I called it hair-raising yesterday... During the landing we could see through the front window of the plane and all we saw was cliff.

Once we arrived we were served our first sit down meal, something we will get used to three times a day. The group was also very impressed when they discovered their tents set up for them at camp. First class service!

Today's hike was beautiful and was definitely a taste of what is to come. We are camping in the town of Phakding at 8360 ft. or 2550 meters. The only down fall is a couple of the group members have caught some GI bug and were definitely dragging. Hopefully, things will look up tomorrow!

In the morning we hike to Namche Bazaar where we will spend a rest day at 11,300 ft. Namche is the most important city in the Khumbu.

Dispatch #3 - March 29th, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Kathmandu for one last time before we begin our trek up to Everest Base Camp. Today the group had the opportunity to visit different city sites and learn about some of the traditions, here in Nepal.

After we dropped off the clothes some of the clients brought for the IMEC, the organization I wrote about yesterday, we visited three different spots throughout the day. First, we visited the Riverbanks of the Bagmati and the Pashupatinath Temple. This temple is the most important Temple in Nepal for the Hindu religion. Below this temple is the Bagmati, a holy river, a popular place to be cremated. While we were there we saw five different cremations. After one is cremated their ashes are swept into the Bagmati River.

The second spot we visited, Bodnath, is a Buddhist religious structure called a Stupa. This is the largest Stupa in the world. In the past these were domed burial mounds, but over centuries have become huge structures that represent the Buddha and Buddhist philosophy. At the top of the Stupa are "Buddha Eyes" on all four sides, which is believed to represent the all-seeing nature of the Buddha.

Lastly we visited the Buddhist Temple of Swayambhunath also known as the "Monkey Temple". This name is a result of the many monkeys that hang around steeling food and goods from the vendors. The group had the opportunity to train some for the trek while walking up 365 stairs to get to the temple. The amount of stairs represents the days of the year.

Everyone really enjoyed seeing some of the religious sites of Kathmandu; however, they are anxiously awaiting tomorrow. Now folks are finishing up last minute packing to be ready for an early morning hair-raising flight to Lukla at 9300ft. This is where it all begins...

Dispatch #2- March 28th, 2004

This is Sarah Henley reporting from Kathmandu at the Yak and Yeti Hotel. Today the remaining team members were greeted at the Kathmandu airport, with fresh Nepalese flower necklaces. Although, a little foggy eyed everyone is in great spirits.

This evening the group roamed the streets of Thamel, the most popular tourist spot in Kathmandu. The narrow streets and alleys of Thamel are filled with great restaurants and shops. This is the place to buy cheap authentic Nepalese clothes, art and even last minute gear for the trek and Everest climb.

All the team members, trekkers and climbers, enjoyed a nice dinner at the Rum Doodle tonight. The Rum Doodle is famous around here. Once one achieves the summit of Everest they become part of the Everest Club and are fortunate enough to eat at this restaurant for free for life. However, I am sure there are restrictions for those broke travelers who may try and take advantage of this honor! As the group began to learn names and a little about each other the anticipation for what is to come started to build...

Tomorrow, those who are interested or not too jet lagged, will experience a guided tour of the beautiful Kathmandu Temples. We will also visit the International Mountain Explorers Connection office. Since 1998, the IMEC has raised thousands of pounds of gear and clothing from hundreds of companies to benefit the Porter Assistance Project clothing lending banks. These banks operate in Nepal, Peru, and Tanzania. Tourists and companies who wish to borrow clothing from these banks to properly outfit their porters can do so simply by leaving a deposit. Mountain Madness encourages their clients to assist IMEC in donating and transporting gear for this cause. Dispatch #1- March 27, 2004 This is Sarah Henley, Everest Base Camp Manager, from Kathmandu. Today, March 27th, is the start of the Mountain Madness spring 2004 Everest Base Camp Trek and Everest Climb. Most of the climbers arrived tonight and the trekkers arrive tomorrow. Everyone is excited and anxious to begin the trip up to Everest but they are currently more concerned with catching up on lost sleep, from the long flight. Kathmandu is one of the great cities of the world and we plan to visit some of the sites in the next couple days and experience the fascinating culture of Nepal.