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Custom Dates: (May - June)
One Day Climbs: Custom Rates apply
Maximum Client/Guide Ratio: 3:1
Climbing Grade: Beginner
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Wilson Peak is the third highest peak in the Lizard Head Wilderness Area at 14,017 feet. The peak is considered the easiest of the 14ers in the Wilderness Area due to the short approach, which can be done easily in a day with a straightforward route to the summit. Due to access issues, we are only able to offer the technical West Face route of Wilson Peak. However this is, by far, a better route than the standard South Ridge. Wilson Peak is an excellent training climb for those who inspire to climb other peaks such as Elbrus, Mt. Blanc or Island Peak.
The rugged San Juan Mountain range is located in Southwestern Colorado and covers one-eighth of the state. The San Juans have more that 100 peaks over 13,000 feet and are home to thirteen 14,000-foot peaks. The best views of Wilson Peak are on Hwy 45 by the town of Mountain Village. The best time to climb Wilson Peak is early season when the West Face is a snow climb and offers an enjoyable and scenic route to the summit. Early summer offers the beauty of spring flowers and the weather is more predictable.
COST INCLUDES: Group gear, climbing equipment, food and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation*, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guide, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
*Transportation must be provided for the guide from Telluride.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Rockies is un-predictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is not necessary to have mountaineering experience, but it is recommended that you have some hiking experience prior to this trip. This trip is rated as strenuous and we can not overemphasize the importance of conditioning. Being in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment.
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Itinerary
Day 1: We meet early morning in Telluride and drive to the Silver Peak trailhead. Our approach leads through a brief alpine forest before ascending above the tree line. We continue for another 1 to 2 hours on talus fields before we reach the base of the West Face of Wilson Peak at 12,000 feet. We climb 30 to 40 degree snow slopes until we reach the summit ridge. From here it’s class 2 and 3 rock scrambling before reaching the summit (4 to 6 hours from the car). Gorgeous views of Mt. Wilson, El Diente, Gladstone and the rest of the San Juans reward you as you stand on the summit. We return to our vehicle (6-10 hours car to car). We should return to Telluride between 3 and 6 p.m. Conditions beyond our control may cause a later return time. Two-day climbs are available.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Due to inclement weather, last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is required that you have hiking experience prior to this trip and preferred that you have some basic snow travel skills as well. This trip is rated as strenuous and we can not overemphasize the importance of conditioning. Being in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. An additional day can be added to focus on snow skills.
HOW TO GET THERE: Telluride is located in the SW corner of the state of Colorado. Daily commercial flights into Telluride are available. The next closest airport to Telluride is approximately 65 miles away in Montrose, Colorado. If you fly, plan on arriving the day before the course begins. Shuttles or rental cars are available at the Montrose airport.
WHAT TO BRING: You will be provided with a complete equipment list upon registration for this trip.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Participants are responsible for hotel and meal expenses. Mountain Madness recommends several B&Bs and lodges:
- The Ice House Lodge ($145+; 800-544-3436)
- Mountainside Inn ($90-$170; 970-728-1950)
- The Victorian Inn ($100-$130; 800-611-9893)
WHERE TO MEET: The guide will meet you at your hotel at a pre-scheduled time on the start day of the climb.
ABOUT TELLURIDE, COLORADO: Telluride is a wonderful resort town nestled in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. Telluride offers access to an abundance of outdoor sports such as climbing, hiking, biking and jeep trails. The historic district of downtown Telluride has plenty of shops, art galleries, food, music, and special events. To learn more about the town of Telluride visit www.telluride.com.
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