2011 DATE: (3 days)

July 16-18

COST:

1:1 for $975
2:1 for $725 (scheduled trip includes transportation)

CUSTOM DATES:
Call our office to schedule your climb.

COST: click here for more details





Climbing Grade: Intermediate

Surrounded by a steep, remote and extremely rugged part of the North Cascades, Mt. Triumph is one of the best moderate alpine rock peaks in Washington state. The Northeast Ridge, first climbed in 1965 by local pioneers Joan and Joe Firey, is a straightforward yet exposed climb on solid Skagit gneiss.  Triumph's proximity, a few miles south west of the infamous Picket Range, adds to its wonderful ambiance and provides climbers with an amazing background while climbing the NE ridge. The approach is strenuous (part of it on a great trail, the other part via moderate cross- country travel), but certainly worth the effort.  

Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.

COST INCLUDES (for scheduled date): Transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Intermediate. Climbers should have the ability to follow 5.7 rock with a light pack and be able to move steadily for a full day. The majority of the route is mid-fifth class.  Previous experience on moderate glaciated terrain helpful but not required.

NEXT STEPS: After completion of this trip, you may want to build upon your new skills and participate in a more advanced expedition. The following opportunities are logical next steps: Mt. Kenya • The Matterhorn • Forbidden Peak. For more info about these trips, please visit our website www.mountainmadness.com or call 800-328-5925.

Itinerary

Day 1:  The drive from Seattle to the Thorton Lakes trailhead (2,700') takes about 3.5 hours. The first 2 miles of the hike gain little elevation and offer a chance to warm up for the climb to the ridgecrest and pass (4900') above Thorton Lakes  - this is good trail hiking with great blueberries in late summer. From here we descend to the lakes, pick our way through moderate alpine terrain, and climb the final steep 900 ft slope to a col that will be our bivouac for the night.  This col, the easiest entry point onto the un-named pocket glacier on Triumph's eastern flank, has unparalleled views, as well a good water source.

Day 2:  With a pre-dawn start, we traverse the glacier for 1.5 hours or so before making our way onto the NE Ridge proper.  Depending on the season and the year, this traverse can either be easy snow, or rock slabs and a bit of ice.  The first few pitches offer very nice, easy face and crack climbing before the features sharpen and the ridge narrows. About two-thirds of the way up, the ridge leads to a small crux tower which offers fun and exhilarating climbing.. Once through this step, there is a more classic ridge climbing - the final 200 feet follows third and fourth class to the summit. A series of rappels, lowers, and simultaneous down-climbing lead us back to the base of the ridge. We'll then reverse the glacier approach back to our bivy at the col.

Day 3:  Most parties find it unreasonable to reverse the approach after the previous day's climb. Hiking out on day 3 makes for a much more doable and enjoyable trip. If energy allows, it is highly recommended to do the short hike from the pass above Thorton Lakes to Trapper Peak. Expect to be back in Seattle by mid-afternoon.

NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.