How do you improve upon the already classic Forbidden Peak? By adding an ascent of Mount Torment, and climbing a mile of snow, ice, and rock ridge in between the two peaks! Since its inclusion in Jim Nelson’s “50 Favorite Climbs of North America,” the Torment-Forbidden Traverse (TFT) has become a very sought after and more frequently attempted alpine climb. Consider that in 1958 (after doing their first ascent of Torment’s South Ridge), Ed Cooper and Walt Sellers intentionally bivouacked without overnight gear in order to get the first ascent of this classic climb.
Dominating the terrain high above Boston Basin, the TFT has everything all great technical traverses have – iconic and aesthetic peaks, a high level of commitment, and fun, engaging climbing. Our 3-day trip goes up the Taboo Glacier, climbs Torment’s South Ridge then descends to the long ridge that ultimately connects to Forbidden’s famed West Ridge route. Numerous ridge features to climb, steep sections of glacier snow and ice, and fantastic positions on sound rock characterize the traverse. Join us on one of the North Cascades National Park’s best routes!
COST INCLUDES: (for scheduled date): Transportation to the trailhead, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.
QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Advanced-Intermediate. Climbers should have the ability to follow 5.6 rock with a medium-weight pack with bivy gear, and be able to move steadily for a full day, three days in a row. Experience on steeper snow and ice is preferred as well.
Itinerary
Day 1: The drive from Seattle to the town of Marblemount (gateway to the North Cascades National Park) takes about 2.5 hours. From there, the Cascade River Road provides great access to the peaks that surround Cascade Pass and the famed Boston Basin - home to Torment, Sahale, Sharkfin and Forbidden Peaks. After leaving the trailhead, we gain 2500' by climbing up a steep, rugged trail into Boston Basin at 5,700 feet. Camp is made on pleasant benches beneath the Taboo Glacier and Torment's South Ridge Route. The entire central section of the traverses looms overhead!
Day 2: With an alpine start we navigate the gentle Taboo glacier and climb up a short snow couloir to gain the South Ridge Route on Mount Torment. From here we climb some of the nicest, most solid, pitches of the route until the central section of the peak is reached, and we begin easy traversing on ledges to the large summit area.. Broken 4th and easy 5th class climbing brings us to Torment's summit where the entire TFT comes into view! This gives us the first vantage point of the snow and ice sections of the traverse, and allows us to plot our route ahead . A few rappels, lowers, and some downclimbing on the East Ridge drop us into a prominent notch above the Forbidden Glacier. The remainder of the afternoon is spent climbing the first half of the central traverse until darkness brings us to one of the most classic bivouac spots in the North Cascades.
Day 3: On our final day we get to enjoy the second half of the central section of the TFF which has been likened to a great "sidewalk in the sky." In no time we connect with the West Ridge of Forbidden, and the day keeps getting better and better - up the solid and easy beginning section, through the crux 5.6 corner, along the knife edges of the upper ridge, and finally, up the last gendarme that guards the summit. Gazing back at the entire length of the TFT is something any climber will cherish for a lifetime - especially if you just climbed the entire thing! Descent is made down the West Ridge, back into Boston Basin, and down the approach trail. Expect to be at the trailhead by dark and in Seattle by mid-evening.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
NEXT STEPS: After completion of this trip, you may want to build upon your new skills and experience and participate in a more advanced expedition or climb. The following are logical next steps: Mt. Kenya, North Face • The Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge • Alpine Climbs in Alaska's Ruth Gorge. For more info about these trips please visit our website www.mountainmadness.com or call 800-328-5925.
|
