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Mt. Shuksan’s North Face is a serious snow and ice route of moderate steepness on one of the most beautiful mountains in the Cascades. The North Face route is seldom done and certainly more dramatic than any other route on the mountain. This is a direct and rewarding route to the summit, offering grand exposure and a true feeling of solitude.
Snow conditions on the approach and on the route can be a major variable. Cold and hard snow makes for an enjoyable climb (and descent) while softer snow lessens the safety and appeal of the climb. Spring or fall are the seasons to attempt this climb with both offering their own particular advantages.
COST INCLUDES: All meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, hotel accommodations, ground transportation from Seattle to the mountain, transportation to/within Seattle, restaurant meals, guide gratuities, and personal equipment. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Obviously, Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is necessary to have previous mountaineering and rock climbing experience up to 5.9. This trip is rated as strenuous and we can not overemphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 60 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
Day 1: From Seattle, the trailhead (3,650') can be reached in about two and a half hours. The approach travels deep into the forest and up toward the upper reaches of the White Salmon Valley. Later in the season this part of the approach becomes more difficult due to the large amount of brush that is encountered. As we approach the base of the route, we’ll look for high and dry bivy sites in the upper valley, approximately 5,500'. A hearty meal is in store as we prepare for the long and demanding day ahead.
Day 2: With a pre-dawn start, we’ll move east and up onto a small hanging glacier. After climbing to the head of the glacier, we move up through a short snow gully to a convex snow or ice shoulder (8,400'). At this point in the route we have reached the most exposed portion of the climb, with dramatic views down to Price Lake and forested valleys further below. From this point we are 1-2 hours from the summit, depending on conditions. We now traverse south toward the base of the final summit pyramid, and then climb either the south face or the southeast ridge to reach the summit (9,127').
We will descend the mountain via the Fischer Chimneys, a complex and appealing route. This will take us out to Lake Ann, where we camp for the night.
Day 3: We eat a leisurely breakfast, then head back to the road at Austin Pass, leaving a three mile walk back to our vehicle.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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