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2011 DATES: (3 days)
July 2-4
August 20-22
COST:
1:1 for $975
2:1 for $725
(schedule trips include transportation)
CUSTOM DATES:
Call our office to schedule your climb. Custom pricing applies: click here for details
CLIENT TO GUIDE RATIO: 2:1 max
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
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Mt. Shuksan (9,127') is one of the most photographed mountains in the world and is situated on the Northwestern edge of the famed North Cascades Range. It is a massive, complex mountain - often compared to the Weisshorn of the Swiss Alps. Its varied rock terrain, hanging glaciers, and complicated route finding make it is an excellent location for the beginning or advanced climber to gain valuable mountaineering experience. Our route ascends the Fisher Chimneys which is a longer, more advanced climb than the standard Sulphide Glacier route and is a great introduction to intermediate level alpine climbing. Our ascent follows a scenic glacier-carved valley to a little lake overlooking a spectacular basin. The climb first involves easy rock climbing in a series of chimneys, then moderate glacier climbing over parts of three different glaciers, and concludes with a 5.0 or 5.5 rock climb of the summit pyramid! Join us on our climb of the Fisher Chimneys and share in the beauty and grandeur of alpine climbing.
Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
- Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills.
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics.
 COST INCLUDES: (For scheduled dates) Transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.
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General Information
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QUALIFICATIONS: Advanced beginner. It is recommended that you have some glacier travel experience. Additional experience on steeper snow and ice; as well as easy rock is helpful but not required. This is a long, diverse route and climbers should have the stammina and ability to move steadily for a full day. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 50 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
Day 1: The drive from Seattle to the trailhead takes approximately 3.5 hours. Our approach begins by Artist Point and is adjacent to the famed Mt Baker Ski area (holder of the world record seasonal snowfall of 1040 inches in 1998-1999). The hike to base camp takes from 3 4 hours - passing through high alpine meadows, and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before climbing to a small camp at Lake Ann.
Day 2: Summit day begins with a pre-dawn start. The first section of the climb involves a traverse and easy rock climbing (4th to low 5th) in a series of chimneys. Above the chimneys, we climb up Winnies Slide on moderate snow and ice, and continue up and over parts of three different glaciers – the White Salmon, Upper Curtis and Sulphide Glaciers. The final section of the Fischer Chimney Route concludes with a 5.0 rock climb up the central part of the summit pyramid, or a 5.5 variation up the SE Ridge. The summit of Mt Shuksan is perhaps one of the finest vantage points in all of the North Cascades! The descent is made by reversing the climbing route. Expect this to take upwards of 5 hours.
DAY 3: After a leisurely breakfast, we break camp, and hike back to the Artist Point trailhead by noon or 1 p.m. Expect to arrive back in Seattle by late afternoon or early evening. A popular stopover is at the North Fork Brewery (great pizza and beer) outside the town of Glacier.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
NEXT STEPS: After completion of this trip, you may want to build upon your new skills and participate in a more advanced expedition. The following opportunities are logical next steps: Mt. Kenya • The Matterhorn • Forbidden Peak. For more info about these trips, please visit our website www.mountainmadness.com or call 800-328-5925.
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