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2010 DATES: (3 days)
June 19-21
July 17-19
August 21-23
Custom Dates:
Call our office to schedule your climb.
COST: $795
CLIENT TO GUIDE RATIO: 4:1
Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner
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The Mt. Shuksan climb with Mountain Madness was the perfect introduction to mountain climbing: a hike through beautiful woodlands, a day of snow school and resting, a very long but incredibly rewarding summit day - all guided by Jason, a super teacher, who made the whole climb exceptionally great fun! - Emma W.
Mt. Shuksan (9,127'), the most photographed mountain in the world, is a massive, complex mountain which offers abundant learning opportunities and is an excellent location for the beginning or advanced climber to gain valuable mountaineering experience. According to Northwest climbing legend Fred Beckey this peak “is one of the finest mountaineering objectives and epitomizes the jagged alpine peak like no other massif in the North Cascades.”
The Sulphide Glacier route offers glacier travel and an exhilarating rock scramble up the summit pyramid of this lofty peak. Diverse climbing and amazing scenery makes this one of our best all-around summit climbs.Our route ascends the moderate Sulphide Glacier to the summit pyramid, the most impressive and technically challenging portion of the route where we ascend 3rd and 4th class rock to gain the summit! Join us on our climb of the Sulphide Glacier and share in the beauty and grandeur of alpine climbing.
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots, and harnesses
- Crampon use and snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics
COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes needed to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is not necessary to have previous mountaineering experience. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we can not over emphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 60 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
 Day 1: We drive from Seattle to the trailhead (2,500 feet). The hike to base camp involves 2,900' of elevation gain and takes 5-7 hours. We start out in dense forest then pass through alpine meadows and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before climbing to a saddle with beautiful views of Mount Baker and the Picket Range. Another hour of hiking up glacially-scoured slopes and we arrive at our camp, which is situated at the edge of the Sulphide Glacier (5,400'). Carrying 50-60 pound packs makes this the most strenuous day of the trip.
Day 2: This day is dedicated toward learning the skills necessary to safely ascend Mount Shuksan. We begin with a snow school where you learn how to use your ice axe for moving in balance and for self-arrest. After learning some knots and rope handling skills, we review roped glacier travel and discuss glaciology and traveling as a roped team. If there is time, students will then get an opportunity to practice rock climbing in their plastic boots on some of the rock outcrops adjacent to the glacier. We finish this day with a large meal and make final preparations for the following morning’s summit attempt.
DAY 3: A long day begins with a pre-dawn start. Our climb to the summit begins with several hours of cramponing up the gentle Sulphide Glacier. Early in the season, we then leave the glacier and climb steep snow to the top of the summit “pyramid.” In the later part of the season, the climb of the summit pyramid involves a few sections of 3rd and 4th class rock climbing. There are a few fun, tricky moves which will require some concentration, but the majority of the climb will have you scrambling up ledge systems to the ridge that leads to the summit! From here you will have views of the complex glaciers beneath us as well as the surrounding peaks of the North Cascades! We then descend the climbing route, rearrange our ropes to descend back across the Sulphide Glacier, and arrive back at our camp. After a quick snack, we break camp, head down the mountain, and arrive back at the trailhead by 4 or 5 p.m.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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