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View video from the summit!
Located in the Boston Basin region of the North Cascades National Park, the Quien Sabe Glacier rises between Sharkfin Tower, Boston Peak, and Sahale Peak. Remarkable alpine views accompanied with easy glacier climbing make this one of the most appealing climbs of the Cascades. This is a great introduction to the world of alpine climbing and the North Cascades.
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
- Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills.
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics.
COST INCLUDES: All meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook
kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, ground
transportation, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for
guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent
to all participants.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes needed to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is not necessary to have previous mountaineering experience. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we can not overemphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 50 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
Day 1: We will drive about three hours from Seattle into the North Cascades National Park via the Cascade River Road. After leaving the trailhead behind, we gain 2,500' by trekking up a steep, rugged trail into Boston Basin at 5,700 feet. We establish camp adjacent to incredible alpine meadows, enjoy the views, and eat a delicious dinner before climbing into our sleeping bags for a good night’s sleep.
Day 2: The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel. The day begins with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. We spend the afternoon learning and practicing ice axe technique and self arrest, roped team travel, route finding, and hazard assessment with an introduction to crevasse rescue. The remainder of the evening is spent making final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.
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Day 3: After an alpine start (~2:00 am), we climb up toward the summit. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes from three to six hours to reach the summit. From the top at 8,868 feet, we have stunning views of the morning sunlight rising above distant peaks. After descending, we will rest in camp and bask in the glory of the North Cascades. After a quick snack, we break camp, head down the mountain, and arrive back at the trailhead by 4 or 5 p.m.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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