NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBS
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ROCK & ICE TRILOGY
Mount Buckner-North Face, Forbidden Peak-West Ridge, Mount Baker-North Ridge
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Itinerary |General Info |
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CLIMB DATES
Custom dates Available - please call our office to schedule your trip.
Cost: Click here for details
Client to Guide Ratio: maximum - 2:1
Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate
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These routes represent a unique genre of climbing in the North Cascades and are predominantly steep snow and ice climbs, with an occasional bit of rock to spice things up. Advanced techniques are required for each ascent. These routes are perfect training for the bigger climbs in the Andes and Himalayas, such as Alpamayo or Ama Dablam. Please call us to discuss the necessary qualifications for these climbs.
Due to the overall length and difficulty of these climbs, we recommend that most climbers consider three days for these climbs. While each climb can be completed in two days, an additional day provides an extra summit attempt if needed and increases the overall enjoyment of these incredible and challenging climbs.
Trip Highlights Include:
- Ice climbing up to 80 degrees
- Experience on technical terrain in an incredible alpine environment
- Crossing the Coleman Glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the lower 48 states
- Views of the Olympics, Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands
- Occasional sightings of the Aurora Borealis
COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle or Portland, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants. |
General Information
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QUALIFICATIONS: Intermediate climbing - previous experience with use of ice axe, crampons, and roped travel recommended. Our Alpine Ice Course is a perfect way to prepare for these climbs. Climbers should be comfortable on 60 degree ice and up to 5.6 on rock. Strong physical conditioning is mandatory. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 45 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
DAY 1: We will drive up the Cascade River Road to the Boston Basin trailhead. After leaving the trailhead behind, we gain 2500' by trekking up a steep, rugged trail into Boston Basin at 5,700 feet. We establish camp adjacent to incredible alpine meadows, enjoy the views, and eat a delicious dinner before climbing into our sleeping bags for a good night’s sleep.
DAY 2: We hold a short snow school where we brush up on our skills and perhaps practice new ones. The remainder of the day will be spent in preparation for our summit attempt the following day. We will enjoy a hearty dinner and turn in early in order to be rested and ready for our summit day.
DAY 3: An early morning start is in order and affords us the best conditions for traveling toward the summit. Our route takes us up and over Sharkfin Col, mixed climb up to 5.9 with 40 degree snow, then rappel onto the Boston Glacier. We traverse east, weaving through the complex crevasses of the largest glacier in the North Cascades National Park, arriving under the 1500 foot North Face of Mt Buckner. We ascend the steep snow and ice arriving at the most elusive 9,000 foot mountain in the Cascades. After reaching the summit, we descend the other side of the mountain and traverse the Davenport Glacier. We then climb up to Sahale Mountain and drop down into Boston Basin.
DAY 4: We take a rest day and reminisce about our climbing experience. We eat and review some skills for our ascent of Forbidden tomorrow.
DAY 5: Following a pre-dawn start, we ascend onto the pocket glacier at the base of the spectacular South Face of Forbidden and traverse to the West Ridge Couloir. We ascend 40-50 degree snow which leads to the crest of the West Ridge where we drop our crampons and packs. Donning rock shoes, we begin climbing this fun and interesting route along the exposed & spiny ridge crest that leads to the summit (8,815 feet). The climbing here is on solid rock with 5.6 moves along the way. This climb is guaranteed to bring a smile to your face! After basking in our sense of accomplishment and snapping a few photographs, we will begin our descent, get back to camp and eat a well deserved dinner.
DAY 6: We return to the trailhead, eat a hot meal in town and find a shower at our campground along the Mt. Baker Highway. We take the rest of the day to organize our food and gear for our next climb.
DAY 7: Drive from our campground to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead (4,000') on the North side of Mt. Baker. Approximate driving time is 2.5 hours. The hike to base camp at 6,000' takes 3 to 4 hours. We will travel through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and snow covered areas en route to our high camp. After setting up camp, we eat a big dinner and head to bed early.
DAY 8: The day begins early with an alpine start (2:00 a.m.) followed by a quick breakfast. We are climbing our way toward the summit as the sun begins to rise. Our route traverses the Coleman Glacier and climbs the Roosevelt Glacier to the base of the North Ridge. The climbing is on moderate (30°-50°) snow slopes with two short, steep ice sections (~70° to near vertical). Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes from 8 to 10 hours to reach the top. Gorgeous views of the Cascades reward you as you stand on the summit of the North Cascade’s highest volcano. We descend via the Coleman -Deming route which takes us down the Roman Wall to the saddle between the Black Buttes and Baker’s summit. The views down to the Easton Glacier from here are impressive! A descending traverse of the Coleman takes us back to base camp where we relax and enjoy the evening alpenglow.
DAY 9: Break down camp and descend to the trailhead. We should arrive at the trailhead by midday. Conditions beyond our control may cause a later return time.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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