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Bailey Range Traverse - Olympic National Park

Itinerary |General Info

2010 DATES: (9 days)

July 24-August 1

COST:

$1,950 (for a 2:1 client/guide ratio)
$1,800 (for a 3:1 or 4:1 client/guide ratio)

Custom Dates:
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Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner


Because most of the Olympic Mountains are hidden from view by miles of old-growth forest, the best peaks hold a mystical, legendary appeal – and with this trip, you’ll explore them all. 

 

Starting at Sol Duc hotsprings, we’ll work our way out the scenic High Divide.  From there, the infamous Catwalk is the gateway to a beautiful traverse along the Bailey Range, with several peaks to climb along the way, including Cat Peak, Mount Carrie, and the Ragamuffin.  After traversing Bear Pass, we’ll be in the perfect position to summit the crown jewel of the area, the heavily glaciated Mount Olympus.  Then, after descending the Blue Glacier, we’ll enjoy a beautiful hike out as we follow the Hoh River through the largest temperate rain forest in the lower forty-eight.

 

This nine-day trip has it all: world-class scenery and the rewards of challenging routefinding, glacier travel, scrambling, and backcountry travel techniques.  You’ll also have chances to see pristine glaciers and wildlife, including bears, mountain goats, and some of the last great herds of elk.

On this trip we will review:

  • Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
  • Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
  • Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
  • Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
  • Camp construction, camp management, and backcountry travel techniques
  • Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics.

 

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.



General Information

WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges, the weather in the Olympics is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. The particular dates for this trip where chosen carefully and to take advantage of the best weather and climbing conditions in an average season. Mountain Madness has no control over adverse weather, therefore last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled.


QUALIFICATIONS: Advanced Beginner - previous experience with use of ice axe, crampons, and roped glacier travel recommended. Previous challenging backpacking and cross-country travel required. Strong physical conditioning is mandatory.  Due to the high level of commitment on this trip, it is especially important that participants hone their systems and place a premium on light weight and high quality gear. 


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Itinerary

Day 1: After an early team meeting and gear check in Seattle, we’ll drive out to the Olympic Peninsula and check in with the rangers at Port Angles Ranger Station.  The traverse starts at the Sol Duc Hotsprings.  That afternoon, we’ll hike through the rainforest to camp at the Crow’s Nest on the High Divide.  Much of the route ahead will be visible from this vantage – with the Hoh River headwaters down below and the peaks of the Bailey Range stretching off to the East.
 
Day 2: On day two, we’ll cross the Catwalk, known by locals as the “bridge to the backcountry.”  After setting up at Boston Charlie’s Camp, we’ll have an optional climb of Mount Carrie, the highest peak in Bailey Range at 6,995 ft.
 
Day 3: On day three, we’ll be traveling off trail as we make our way up and over the Fairchild Glacier.  (It’s a great chance to practice our glacier skills for Mount Olympus!)  We’ll make camp above treeline in the shadow of Stephen Peak (6,418 ft).
 
Day 4: On day four, we’ll descend from the alpine to find our way through the forest as we head toward Mount Ferry (6,195 ft). 
 
Day 5: From Mount Ferry, we’ll be traveling over rock and snow to follow the spine of a long ridge as we head south to make camp at Bear Pass.  Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife!
 
Day 6: From Bear Pass, our route traverses down into the head of the Queets River, and up steeply onto the Humes Glacier.  We’ll camp at Blizzard Pass, which will put us in a good position for an early start on summit day. 
 
Day 7:  Summit day!  This day will be spectacular - with a high traverse of the upper Hoh Glacier, very aesthetic alpine travel route through the East and Middle peaks, and onto the standard Blue Glacier route to Olympus’ true summit (7,969 ft).  After our summit attempt we’ll descend the north side of the mountain to camp on the Snow Dome.
 
Day 8:  From the Snow Dome, we’ll make the descent down the Blue Glacier and into gorgeous Glacier Basin.  For our last night in the field, we’ll sleep at the Olympus Guard Station camp.
 
Day 9: From the Olympus Guard Station we hike the final 9 miles out the Hoh River Trail. This section is mostly flat or downhill and is one of the best examples of a temperate rainforest in the world.  Expect to be back in Seattle late in the early evening.  A celebration dinner will certainly be in order after completing this classic high traverse!

 

NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.



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