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NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBS
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MOUNT STUART (9,415 ft.)
Upper North Ridge, IV 5.6-5.9
Itinerary |General Info

2011 DATE: (3 days)

August 3-5

COST:

1:1 for $975
2:1 for $725
(Includes Transportation)

Custom Dates & Pricing:
Call our office to schedule your climb.

COST: click here for more details


CLIENT TO GUIDE RATIO:
Because any ascent of this route includes several challenging, technical sections, we restrict our client to guide ratio to either 1:1 or 2:1


Climbing Grade: Intermediate


Considered by many to be one of the premier alpine rock climbs in Washington State, this route on 9,415 ft Mount Stuart offers strong intermediate-level climbers a chance hone their skills and ability to move fast and light through varied alpine terrain. As one of the famed “Fifty Classic Climbs in North America,” the North Ridge has unrivaled alpine ambiance, solid granite, and continuously engaging climbing. Not only is the North Ridge super fun and classic, - a veritable must do for any rock climber - but it's two crux pitches (up the 5.9 "Great Gendarme" variation) offer five-star climbing that rival any pitch in Yosemite. Mount Stuart is a recommended conditioning or training climb in preparation for the Matterhorn, Mount Kenya, and Nepal's Ama Dablam.

Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.

COST INCLUDES (for scheduled date): Transportation to the trailhead, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Intermediate. Climbers should have the ability to follow 5.7 rock with a medium-weight pack with bivy gear, and be able to move steadily for a full day. The classic "Great Gendarme" pitches are rated 5.9 and are highly recommended.  Otherwise the majority of the route is between 5.4 and 5.7.

 



Itinerary

Day 1: We meet at your hotel at 6:30 in the morning. After a quick orientation and equipment check at a local gear shop, we drive from Seattle to the Teanaway River and the Ingalls Lake trailhead (4200ft). Approximate drive time is 2.5 hours. The hike to our camp at Goat Pass, takes about 5 -6 hours and strategically positions us a the start of the short glacier crossing that gains the upper North Ridge Route.

Day 2: The day begins early with an alpine start. Depending on conditions and the pace, it takes from 6 to 8 hours to reach the summit - a bit more if the harder gendarme pitches are climbed. Descent is made down the south side of the peak via the Cascadian Couloir. Camp that night will be made in the pleasant river valley of Ingalls Creek.

Day 3: Our final day is used breaking down camp and traveling over Long's Pass back to the Ingall's Lake trailhead and our vehicle. We should be back by noon and in Seattle mid-late afternoon.

NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

NEXT STEPS: After completion of this trip, you may want to build upon your new skills and participate in a more advanced expedition or climb. The following are logical next steps: Mt. Kenya, North Face  • The Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge • Forbidden Peak's NW Face. For more info about these trips please visit our website www.mountainmadness.com or call 800-328-5925.


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