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MOUNT WILSON – EL DIENTE TRAVERSE
SUMMIT CLIMB
Lizard Head is considered to be one of the more difficult peaks in Colorado. The easiest route is rated rock climb grade 5.8. The climb starts at 12,000 feet at the base of the 1,000 foot tower. Three pitches of mid 5th class climbing and a bit of scrambling leads to the 13,113 foot summit. The hike to the climb is through pine and evergreen forest and alpine meadows as well as the breathtaking scenery of the surrounding peaks of the San Juan Mountains. Occasionally there are heard of Elk that graze in the meadows below the peak. Lizard Head peak is a recommended conditioning or training climb in preparation for other longer alpine rock routes such as the Mt. Wilson – El Diente Traverse, Matterhorn, or Carstensz Pyramid.
The rugged San Juan Mountain range is located in Southwestern Colorado and covers one-eight of the state. The San Juans have more that 100 peaks over 13,000 feet and are home to thirteen 14,000-foot peaks. June through September is the best time to climb in the mountains. Early summer offers the enjoyment of spring flowers and more snow travel, mid summer has warmer temperatures with drier conditions and September displays brilliant autumn colors, but cooler temps.
CUSTOM DATES Contact our office to discuss dates
COST INCLUDES: Group gear, climbing equipment, guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation*, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guide, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
*Transportation must be provided for the guide from Telluride. |
General Information
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QUALIFICATIONS: It is required that you have previous outdoor rock climbing/scrambling experience and good physical conditioning prior to this trip. You need to be able to move quickly over 3rd, 4th and low 5th class rock terrain. This trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of conditioning. Being in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. One or two day courses are available to refresh your climbing skills.
HOW TO GET THERE: Telluride is located in the SW corner of the state of Colorado. Daily commercial flights into Telluride are available. The next closest airport to Telluride is approximately 65 miles away in Montrose, Colorado. If you fly, plan on arriving the day before the course begins. Shuttles or rental cars are available at the Montrose airport.
ACCOMMODATIONS: Participants are responsible for hotel and meal expenses. Mountain Madness recommends several B&Bs and lodges:
- The Ice House Lodge ($145+; 800-544-3436),
- Mountainside Inn ($90-$170; 970-728-1950),
- The Victorian Inn ($100-$130; 800-611-9893),
WHERE TO MEET: The guide will meet you at your hotel at a pre-scheduled time on the start day of the climb.
ABOUT TELLURIDE, COLORADO: Telluride is a wonderful resort town nestled in the heart of the San Juan Mountains. Telluride offers access to an abundance of outdoor sports such as climbing, hiking, biking and jeep trails. The historic district of downtown Telluride has plenty of shops, art galleries, food, music, and special events. To learn more about the town of Telluride visit www.telluride.com.
Contact Us / Download an Application
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Itinerary
Day 1: We meet early morning in Telluride and drive to the Cross Mountain trailhead. Our approach leads through forests and alpine meadows and to Bilk Basin. Once underneath Lizard Head we break off the main trail to a faint climbers trail and following several switchbacks to the base of the climb. The first two pitches are rated 5.7+ climbing. We traverse over loose 3rd class rock to the base of the final pitch. The last pitch is considered the crux of 5.8, a short roof and chimney system leads to the summit. Stunning views of Gladstone, Wilson Peak, Mt. Wilson, and Sunshine. We then make two long repels to the base of the climb and back to our backpacks. The hike back out takes about 1 to 2 hours. We return to our vehicle (7-10 hours car to car). We should return to Telluride around 6:00 p.m. Conditions beyond our control may cause a later return time.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control. Due to inclement weather, last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled.
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