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This climb is perhaps the most unique of our “Classic Summits,” ascending the Cascade Range's lone wilderness volcano. The Glacier Peak Wilderness Area was established by Congress in 1964 to provide solitude for all, and to allow the landscape to remain in a pristine condition. We climb the peak via the Disappointment Peak Cleaver Route – traveling on the White Chuck, Gerdine, and Cool Glaciers – a remote and aesthetic route.
The fourteen mile approach hike takes us through one of the region’s most pristine and incredible wilderness areas; past ancient old-growth forest of cedar, fir and hemlock, and through blueberry-riddled alpine meadows. The forest of the Sauk River Valley eventually yields to the high alpine and our first camp near White Pass along the famed Pacific Crest Trail. After moving cross country to our second camp, we can do a glacier travel skills review, or just rest up for summit day. The climbing on day three is diverse and interesting and very moderate - panoramic views of the vast wilderness reward us as we climb toward the 10,520 summit.
Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.
On this climb we will review:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
- Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics
COST INCLUDES: (for scheduled date) Transportation to the trailhead, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, all transportation, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal climbing gear. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
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General Information
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CLIMB ITINERARY
DAY 1: Drive from Seattle to the North Fork Sauk River Trailhead (2,300'). Approximate driving time is 2.5 hours. After organizing our gear, we will spend the remainder of the day backpacking for nine miles to our first camp. A portion of this trail travels through some of the largest old-growth Cedar stands in the North Cascades. Our first camp (5,600') is located at tree line, and offers stunning views of Sloan Peak, the Monte-Cristo area, and the Dakobed Range
DAY 2: Today we will move up the mountain to a high camp at, or below, Glacier Gap (7200’) and above the remnants of the White Chuck Glacier. This is challenging cross-country travel through alpine terrain that has recently suffered from glacier recession. We may then hold a short snow school where we brush up on our skills and perhaps practice new ones. The remainder of the day will be spent in preparation for our summit attempt. After a hearty dinner, our group will turn in early in order to be rested and ready for our summit day.
DAY 3: An early morning start is in order and affords us the best conditions for traveling toward the summit. The route is moderate for the most part, with several short steep sections as we turn the corner around Disappointment Peak to access the Cool Glacier. Above this the route climbs the Cool, traverses a snow and rock arête with stupendous views, and then climbs steeply up mixed snow and rock to the summit. Standing atop Glacier Peak is a rare opportunity for any visitor. Panoramic views of the Glacier Peak Wilderness, Mt. Baker to the north, and Mt. Rainier to the south await! After descending from the summit, we usually move our camp lower down the mountain in order to get a start on the hike out.
DAY 4-5: Our last days are spent reversing our approach route and descending through the forest to our vehicle at the trailhead. On our way home we generally stop for a celebration dinner en-route, or back in Seattle. NOTE: Our return to Seattle will most likely be late in the evening.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
QUALIFICATIONS: This climb does require that participants have some previous mountaineering experience including basic snow skills (crampon & ice axe usage). This trip is rated as strenuous and we can not over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning and being in excellent shape. Though the technical nature of this climb is moderate, the physical nature should be considered challenging. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 50 lbs. to base camp.
WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the cascades is un-predictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Obviously, Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled.
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