2011 DATE: (3 days)

August 6-8

COST:

1:1 for $975
2:1 for $725 (scheduled trip includes transportation)

CUSTOM DATES: call to schedule your climb.

COST: Click here for details




Climbing Grade: Advanced

Fred Beckey's "Cascade Alpine Guide" pretty much says it all - calling Forbidden's NW Face an "exceptional climb of purity...it's mixed character requires some genuine climbing and flexible alpine skills."  Fred, joined by Ed Cooper, another esteemed Cascadian climber, made the first ascent in July of 1959 and the route's reknowned status remains intact to this day. Presenting the classic alpine climbing dilemma - to "carry-over" with overnight packs, or go light-and-fast from a high bivouac - many consider this route to be one of the best in an area known for great climbing. Intricate in approach, committing and aesthetic, the NW Face is actually more of a "rib" starting low on the remote Forbidden Glacier and taking a plumbline to the summit. Climbers approach logistics for this route in one of two ways:  either with an almost complete circumnavigation of the peak via the Quien Sabe, Boston, and Forbidden Glaciers (the "carry-over" option); or by climbing up the West Ridge couloir to a good bivy and then a series of rappels down steep snow and rock to the glacier below (the "high bivy" option). Once on route expect to find solid rock and fun climbing in a wild and remote setting. This is one of the most sought-after alpine routes in the North Cascades!

Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.

COST INCLUDES (for scheduled date): Transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Advanced. Climbers should have the ability to follow 5.8 rock with a pack and be able to move steadily for a full day. Solid, all-around alpine skills on snow, ice, and rock are required. Any descent of Forbidden is tiring, and takes almost as long as the ascent - excellent physical conditioning is a must. 

Itinerary

Day 1: The drive from Seattle to Marblemount, gateway to the North Cascades National Park, takes about 2.5 hours. From there, the Cascade River Road provides great access to the peaks that surround Cascade Pass and Boston Basin - home to Torment, Sahale, Sharkfin Tower and Forbidden Peak. After leaving the trailhead, we gain 2500' by climbing up a steep, rugged trail into majestic Boston Basin at 5,700 feet. From this point onward our overall approach to the climb will dictate the itinerary. If doing the "carry-over" or "circumnavigation" approach, camp will be made on the upper Quien Sabe Glacier directly below Sharkfin Col - gateway to the immense Boston Glacier (largest in North Cascades National Park at 7 km3).

Day 2: With an early morning start, we climb through Sharkfin Col (5.7 rock) and then do a short rappel to gain the Boston Glacier. A traverse of this mighty glacier leads us to the base of Forbidden's North Ridge and a small bivouac spot at a col between the Boston and Forbidden Glaciers. This is some incredible glacier travel in a remote area - a fairly moderate day.

Day 3: Summit day - a very early start is required. A quick descent of the Forbidden Glacier brings us to the base of the NW Face proper. Traditionally, the best way to get on the route is on the west side and a few hundred feet up from the toe of the rib. Great climbing up definined ridge features, with the occasional mixed snow section leads the the upper face and the most aesthetic part of the climb - mid-fifth class climbing up a steepening rib directly to Forbidden's summit. Descent is made down the West Ridge route (a classic in its own right). Once back in Boston Basin we should be able to make it back to the trailhead by early evening.

(Optional Approach)  If climbers decide on the other approach, the itinerary will roughly go as follows - Day 1: Approach to Boston Basin and climb West Ridge Couloir to a bivouac. Day 2: Rappel down north side of the West Widge to the base of the NW Face, climb the route, and descend back to the bivouac. Day 3: Descend the couloir into Boston Basin and hike out.  NOTE: This approach makes for a very strenuous first day but more leisurely climb and descent. The most technical part of the climb is done with a day pack.

NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

NEXT STEPS: After completion of this climb, you may want to build upon your new skills and participate in a more advanced expedition. The following opportunities are logical next steps: Mt. Kenya's North Face • The Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge • Nepal's Ama Dablam. For more info please visit our website at www.mountainmadness.com or call 800-328-5925.