SCHEDULED DATE: (3 days)

July 10-12

COST:

1:1 for $975
2:1 for $725

Custom Dates & Pricing:
Call our office to schedule your climb.

COST: Click here for details


CLIENT TO GUIDE RATIO: Because any ascent of Forbidden Peak includes several challenging, technical sections, we restrict our client to guide ratio to either 1:1 or 2:1, to ensure personal safety.


Climbing Grade: Intermediate

FORBIDDEN PEAK - WEST RIDGE

Located in a vigorous alpine setting in the heart of the North Cascade National Park, this 8,815-foot mountain offers excellent views of the surrounding peaks and the massive Boston Glacier. Heralded as one of the “Fifty Classic Climbs in North America,” our ascent of the West Ridge is an aspiring alpinist’s dream. The route consists of mid-fifth class climbing and 40°-50° snow and ice before joining an exposed rock ridge. Highly enjoyable mid-fifth class rock climbing along the exposed crest leads us to the summit! Join us on this rugged North Cascades classic for an unforgettable experience.

Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.

"Dear Mountain Madness,

Just a note to say that Andrea and I had an absolutely wonderful time climbing Forbidden Peak. As I'm sure you'll hear from Dave, the weather and conditions were utterly sublime! Andrea and I can't say enough good things about Dave: he was incredible! We greatly appreciated his professionalism, patience, flexibility, humour, cooking(!), not to mention of course his climbing skills! He has a unique talent for guiding and with his calm, confident, reassuring manner allowed us to achieve things we didn't think we were capable of. We know you guys spent quite a bit of time prep-ing for our trip, and that was much appreciated as well. We look forward to climbing again with MM.

All the best and thank you again,

Emma and Andrea"

QUALIFICATIONS: The climbing grade is Intermediate. Climbers should have the ability to follow 5.5 rock with a light pack and be able to move steadily for a full day. The snow couloir that gains the west ridge proper demands some comfort on steep snow using an axe and crampons. Any descent of Forbidden is tiring, and takes almost as long as the ascent - excellent physical conditioning is a must. 

Itinerary

Day 1: The drive from Seattle to Marblemount, gateway to the North Cascades National Park, takes about 2.5 hours. From there, the Cascade River Road provides great access to the peaks that surround Cascade Pass and the famed Boston Basin - home to Torment, Sahale, Sharkfin and Forbidden Peaks. After leaving the trailhead, we gain 2500' by climbing up a steep, rugged trail into Boston Basin at 5,700 feet. Camp is made either at treeline, or in the upper basin below the un-named pocket glacier the provides access to the West Ridge route.

Day 2: Following a pre-dawn start, we ascend up and onto the pocket glacier at the base of the spectacular South Face of Forbidden and traverse to the West Ridge Couloir. 40-50 degree snow is climbed up this aesthetic feature for about 500 ft, finally breaking out into broken easy rock that leads to the crest of the West Ridge.  Mountain boots are exchanged for rock shoes and then the fun begins! Amazingly solid Skagit gneiss provides excellent footing and even better views.  Forbidden's West Ridge represents everything good about alpine rock climbing - sound rock, exciting exposure, engaging climbing on varied terrain, true cruxes, and a tiny summit. This climb is guaranteed to bring a smile to your face! Descent is made by reversing the ascent route. A combination of rapelling, lowering, and belayed downclimbing bring us back to the glacier where success makes for fleet feet back to camp.

Day 3: Most parties find it unreasonable to attempt to hike out after the previous day's climb and therefore elect to spend the night in Boston Basin. Hiking out on day 3 makes for a much more doable, relaxing, and enjoyable trip. If energy allows, it is highly recommended to explore the area's abundant alpine flora, waterfalls, and moraines populated by marmots. Expect to be back in Seattle by mid-afternoon.

NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.

NEXT STEPS: After completion of this trip, you may want to build upon your new skills and participate in a more advanced expedition. The following opportunities are logical next steps: Mt. Kenya's North Face • The Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge • Mt Stuart's North Ridge. For more info about these trips, please visit our website www.mountainmadness.com or call 800-328-5925.