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Located in the North Cascades National Park, Eldorado Peak is famous for its knife edge summit ridge and its unsurpassed views. Approaching via the Eldorado Glacier, climbers have ample opportunity to practice their glacier mountaineering skills before reaching the exposed East Ridge. From here climbers take in the views of Forbidden Peak, Sahale Peak, Mt. Buckner, Mt. Shuksan, and the rest of the North Cascades. Don’t forget your camera!
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
- Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills.
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics.
Each year we offer one scheduled climb at a discounted rate and during the "prime" of the season. Otherwise, all other climbs can be scheduled and priced on a custom basis.
COST INCLUDES (for scheduled date): Transportation to the trailhead, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes needed to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is not necessary to have previous mountaineering experience. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we can not overemphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 50 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
Day 1: We drive from Seattle to the trailhead and head up Eldorado Creek for a strenuous hike to high camp on the Eldorado Glacier. We will start out in dense forest then pass through alpine meadows and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before climbing to a saddle with beautiful views of Johannesburg, Forbidden and the Cascade Crest. We will also have time to discuss in detail the aspects of the climb necessary for safety and efficiency.
Day 2: The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel. The day begins with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. We spend the afternoon learning and practicing ice axe technique and self arrest, roped team travel, route finding, and hazard assessment with an introduction to crevasse rescue. The remainder of the evening is spent making final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.
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Day 3: After an alpine start, (~2:00 am) we climb up toward the summit. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes from three to six hours to reach the summit. From the top at 8,868 feet, we have stunning views of the morning sunlight rising above distant peaks. After descending, we will rest in camp and bask in the glory of the North Cascades. We then descend the climbing route, rearrange our ropes to descend back across the Sulphide Glacier, and arrive back at our camp. After a quick snack, we break camp, head down the mountain, and arrive back at the trailhead by 4 or 5 p.m.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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