NORTH AMERICAN CLIMBS
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DATES: (2-4 days depending on experience)
Custom Dates:
Call our office to schedule your climb.
COST: click here for more details
Client to Guide Ratio: 2:1
Climbing Grade: Advanced
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As the largest ice face in the North Cascades, the Coleman Headwall is a true alpinist’s dream. Combining dramatic crevasse crossings and a variety of sustained snow and ice climbing the Coleman Headwall is both technical and demanding. Consisting of primarily 45 degrees of snow and ice climbers can anticipate brief sections of 70 degree ice. Occasionally we encounter a bergschrund at around 10,000 ft. that demands 20 to 30 feet of vertical ice. This is an unforgettable and dramatic alpine experience.
Trip Highlights Include:
- Technical ice climbing up to 70 degrees in a spectacular alpine setting
- Crossing the Coleman Glacier, one of the largest glaciers in the lower 48 states
- Views of the Olympics, Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands
- Occasional sightings of the Aurora Borealis
COST INCLUDES: All meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation to/within Seattle, ground transportation to the mountain, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes needed to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: Previous mountaineering experience and advanced beginner/intermediate snow skills, including knowledge in the use of ice tools, ice screws, pickets, and running belays are required. Mountain Madness’ Alpine Ice Course or equivalent is an excellent way to prepare for this climb. Please call Mountain Madness if you have any questions. This trip is rated as strenuous and we cannot overemphasize the importance of physical conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning while enjoying the high mountain environment. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 50 lbs. to base camp and be prepared for a long summit day.
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Itinerary
Day 1: Drive from Seattle to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead (4,000') on the North side of Mt. Baker. Approximate driving time is 2.5 hours. The hike to base camp at 6,000' takes 3 to 4 hours. We will travel through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and snow covered areas en route to our high camp. After setting up camp, we eat a big dinner and head to bed early.
Day 2: The day begins early with an alpine start (2:00 a.m.) followed by a quick breakfast. We are up and climbing our way toward the summit as the sun begins to rise. Our route travels up the center of the Coleman Glacier to the base of the Headwall. The climbing starts on moderate (40°-50°) snow slopes getting progressively steeper with several short, steep ice sections (~70° to near vertical). Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes from 8 to 12 hours to reach the top. Gorgeous views of the Cascades reward you as you stand on the summit of the North Cascade’s highest volcano. We descend via the Coleman -Deming route which takes us down the Roman Wall to the saddle between the Black Buttes and Baker’s summit. The views down to the Easton Glacier from here are impressive! A descending traverse of the Coleman takes us back to base camp where we relax and enjoy the evening alpenglow.
Day 3: Break down camp and descend to the trailhead. We should arrive at the trailhead by midday. Conditions beyond our control may cause a later return time.
NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the itinerary and route listed, it is subject to change because of adverse weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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