2010 DATES: June 20-24
FULL


COST: $1,600

CLIENT TO GUIDE RATIO: 3:2

If the Mt. Rainier summit climb is a little above your skill level, or the trip is sold out for the year, here are a few other summit climb options that might catch your eye.

Mt. Baker
Mt. Olympus
Mt. Shuksan
Glacier Peak

Click Here for a full list of our Northwest Summit climbs.


Climbing Grade: Intermediate

General Information

At 14,410 feet, Mt Rainier is the highest peak in the Cascade Range and the most heavily glaciated mountain in the "lower forty-eight."  Known as  Tahoma - "The Big White One" - it is a magnet for climbers of all levels who wish to experience higher altitude climbing, train for bigger peaks abroad, or simply stand on top of Washington state's most prominent icon one time in their lives.  Rainier has it all - big glaciers, big elevation gain, and a big reward!

We climb the Kautz Glacier Route, which has the distinction of being one of the original lines climbed on mountain.  Lieutenant A.V. Kautz made an attempt to climb Rainier in 1857 and after an 8,000 foot, 10 hour push from treeline, he and his team turned back on the summit plateau near Point Success in worsening weather.  Today the Kautz Glacier is considered one of the "standard routes" - perhaps a bit harder than the Emmons or Disappointment Cleaver Routes, and certainly less crowded.  It is interesting to note that the Kautz was the most popular guided route between 1939 and 1950.

The route starts at Paradise (5420') and crosses the broken Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers before heading up the Kautz Glacier proper.  The most distinctive feature on this side of the mountain is certainly the massive Kautz Ice Cliff.  The climbing route in fact skirts below the cliff proper, and then climbs enjoyable and very aesthetic low angle ice and snow for a few pitches to the west.  Once above this feature, the angle eases around 13,500 feet and provides easy climbing.  Finally, we carry on to the south side of crater rim, and then over to Columbia Crest - Rainier's true summit!

On this climb we cover:
• Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
• Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
• Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
• Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
• Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills.
• Discussions will include proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics.

COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation from Seattle, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.

COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, $30 climber’s fee, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.

QUALIFICATIONS: It is necessary to have previous mountaineering experience. This trip is rated as strenuous and we can not over emphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 60 lbs. to base camp.

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Itinerary

Day 1: We meet at the hotel at 6:30 in the morning. We conduct an Orientation meeting, equipment check and Leave No Trace lecture the evening before and help people prepare for the next day’s hike. We drive from Seattle to the trailhead at Paradise. Approximate driving time is 2.5 hours. The hike to our first camp on the Wilson Glacier at 8,800' takes about 5 to 6 hours. We will travel through lush ancient forests and high alpine meadows. After setting up camp, we will perform a skills assessment. The afternoon continues with learning Leave No Trace camping practices, basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. We spend the afternoon learning and practicing ice axe technique, self arrest, roped team travel, and route finding.

Day 2: The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel while making our way up the Wilson Glacier and crossing over to the Kautz Glacier to our high camp situated below Camp Hazard (10,800'). The remainder of the evening is spent learning Leave No Trace practices in the alpine environment and making final preparations for the next day’s summit attempt.

Day 3: The day begins early with an alpine start (2:00 a.m.) followed by a quick breakfast. We are up and climbing our way toward the summit as the sun begins to rise. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes from 5 to 8 hours to reach the top, while navigating through the crevasses and bergschrunds found on the Kautz Glacier. Gorgeous views of the Cascades from Oregon to Canada reward you as you stand on the summit of the North Cascade’s highest volcano. We return to high camp by early afternoon, and relax after our long climb.

Day 4: Reserved for extra summit day.

Day 5: Our final day is used for additional skills practice, breaking down camp, and descending to our vehicle. We should arrive at the trailhead by 5:00 p.m. and Seattle around 8:00 p.m. Conditions beyond our control may cause a later return time.

NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.