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DATES: (3 days)
Custom Dates:
Call our office to schedule your climb.
COST:click here for more details
Climbing Grade: Advanced Intermediate
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Although the Cascades volcanoes may have longer routes, none has the alpine flavor of Mt. Buckner. The North Face offers moderate climbing, great scenery, and an unequaled alpine ambience. At 9,080 feet, and in the heart of the North Cascades National Park, Mt. Buckner is an alpinist’s dream come true.
COST INCLUDES: All meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, hotel accommodations, ground transportation from Seattle to mountain, transportation to/within Seattle, restaurant meals, guide gratuities, and personal equipment. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes made to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is necessary to have previous mountaineering and rock climbing experience up to 5.7. This trip is rated as strenuous and we can not overemphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you also have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 60 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
Day 1: We will drive about three hours from Seattle into the heart of the North Cascades via the Cascade River Road. Leaving the trailhead behind, we gain 2,500' by trekking up a steep, rugged trail into Boston Basin at 5,700'. Higher up in the basin we will establish camp adjacent to incredible alpine meadows, enjoy the views, and eat a delicious dinner before climbing into our sleeping bags for a good night’s sleep.
Day 2: Today we make our way from our camp through the Sahale–Boston col and descend onto the Boston Glacier. After reaching the glacier, we have about a one hour traverse to the base of Mt. Buckner’s North Face. Our climb of the 1300' north face coulior begins by passing a few rock outcrops before reaching the sustained 50 degree snow/ice slope above. After reaching this elusive North Cascade summit we travel back via the Sahale Arm making one last camp at the toe of the Sahale glacier, soaking in the amazing views of the Cascade Crest.
Day 3: We eat a leisurely breakfast and return to the trailhead via Horseshoe Basin and Cascade Pass.
Note: This climb can easily be combined with a climb of Mt. Forbidden, as they each share the same base camp. Contact our office for further details.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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