|
Referred to as Koma Kulshan or the “Great White Watcher” by the Lummi Indians, Mount Baker is the highest and most heavily glaciated peak in the North Cascades. It offers an interesting ascent for beginners-intermediate climbers on one of North America’s most sought after mountains. Our route ascends the Easton Glacier with challenging route finding through icefalls, seracs, and crevasses. Incredible views of the North Cascades, Mount Rainier to the south, and the alluring San Juan Islands to the west awaits those who reach the summit.
Mount Baker is considered among renowned mountaineers as the most beautiful and pristine of the Cascade volcanoes. With its twelve active glaciers and breathtaking views, 10,778' Mount Baker provides a scenic and extremely rewarding mountaineering experience for both first-time cimebrs and seasoned veterans alike. Unlike the crowds found on popular Mount Rainier, your ascent is done in the untrammeled Mount Baker Wilderness Area.
The upper mountain’s alpine environment and the lower mountain’s close proximity to quality teaching terrain make Mount Baker an ideal location to learn and review snow and glacier travel skills. Our goal is to give you hands-on experience, while teaching fundamental, introductory mountaineering skills. The experiences and skills developed on Mount Baker will prepare you for more advanced alpine climbing courses and give valuable insight into developing skills for climbing throughout the world. Mount Baker is a recommended conditioning or training climb in preparation for other Cascade volcanoes, Denali, Aconcagua, and other high altitude peaks- but it's a great climb in it’s on right!
Read Lummi Indian legend about Koma Kulshan, or the "Great White Watcher"
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
- Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics
COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, transportation within Seattle, hotel accommodations, restaurant meals, gratuities for guides, and all personal items. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
|
General Information
|
|
WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over this weather and therefore last minute decisions are sometimes needed to save the trip from being completely cancelled. However, sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is not necessary to have previous mountaineering experience. However, this trip is rated as strenuous and we can not over emphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs, and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, while being able to enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience prior to this trip. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group's equipment, be prepared to carry a maximum of 60 lbs. to base camp.
Contact Us / Download an Application
TOP
|
Itinerary
Day 1: Drive from Seattle to the trailhead at Schreiber's Meadow
(3,200') on the south side of Mt. Baker. Approximate driving time is 2.5
hours. The hike to base camp at 5,500' takes about 3 to 4 hours. We will
travel through lush ancient forests, high alpine meadows, and snow
covered areas en route to our high camp. After setting up camp, we will
perform an equipment check and skills assessment. If time allows, we
will hold a brief snow school covering the use of crampons and ice axes.
Day 2: The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier
travel. The day begins with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe
usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. We spend the afternoon
learning and practicing ice axe technique and self arrest, roped team
travel, route finding, and hazard assessment with an introduction to
crevasse rescue. The remainder of the evening is spent making final
preparations for the next day's summit attempt.
Day 3: The day begins early with an alpine start (2:00 a.m.) followed by
a quick breakfast. We are up and climbing our way toward the summit as
the sun begins to rise. Depending on conditions and the pace of the
group, it takes from 5 to 8 hours to reach the top. Gorgeous views of
the Cascades reward you as you stand on the summit of the North
Cascade's highest volcano. We return to base camp by early afternoon,
break down camp, and descend to our vehicle. We should arrive at the
trailhead by 5:00 p.m. and Seattle around 8:00 p.m. Conditions beyond
our control may cause a later return time.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
TOP
|
Climb Equipment List
|
|
The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Since you will be carrying all of your gear and a portion of the group gear, the items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!
The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.
Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.
Mountain Madness guides and staff swear by Patagonia gear and we know that you will too. Besides having a strong commitment to the environment, Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia. Find out what makes them "committed to the core."
Another company that we believe travel follows our two simple tenets (lightweight and functional) is OR ( Outdoor Research ). Born in the NW, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check Our Links page for a direct link.
Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. We stop at their store on our way out of Seattle on all Northwest trips. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.
We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle which also rents gear, and will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit www.featheredfriends.com
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness* Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (i.e. Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
__ 2 locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 2 regular carabiners Light weight BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash* Light weight (ie Grivel Air tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snow Walker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic Mountaineering boots (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) Mandatory May – mid-July or Leather Mountaineering boots * from mid-July (i.e. La Sportiva Makalu, Boreal Asan or equivalent, must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Crampons* Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12)
__ Climbing helmet* Adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material, do not cut prior to trip!
__ Adjustable trekking poles*
Upper Body
__ Polypropylene T-shirt
__ Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
__ Soft Shell Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable)
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable after mid-July
__ Hard Shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
__ 1 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves 1 pair gloves, fleece or wool
__ Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (OR.Cascade gloves or Shuksan mitts)
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic
__ Balaclava
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
Lower Body
__ 2 pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2 pair heavy wool/synthetic socks.Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 pair Soft shell pants (i.e., Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair nylon shorts. For July/Aug , running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ Light hiking shoes or trail shoes Optional July–Sept, for the hike to basecamp and use at camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
Sleeping Gear
__ Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
__ Sleeping pad full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and/or ? length Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort
Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 5000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
__ Pack cover Optional
__ Summit Pack 1500-2000 cubic inch Lowe Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28
Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe)
__ Personal first aid kit. Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc, check out OR
__ Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
__ Insect repellant. Small bottle, from mid-July on
__ Headlamp. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini
__ Water bottles. Two 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder. With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Mug. Plastic w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__ Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best
__ Pocket knife. Small Swiss-Army type
__ Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ Large plastic bags. 2-3, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage waterproof optional (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Disposable lighters. Two, work better than matches for lighting stoves
__ Bandanas. One or two
__ Snacks and/or munchies. Bring your favorite “trail foods” or desserts, pack in Ziplocs. Avoid bringing more than you will need
__ Camera. Optional, large SLR types are not recommended
*Items can be rented from Mountain Madness
TOP
|
Testimonials
Excellent mountain climbing experience from pick-up to the summit to drop-off at the hotel. The guide helped make the trip enjoyable by his guidance, preparation, teaching, and encouragement. Thanks for a truly delightful outdoor experience.
~ David Asprey, Mt. Baker, 2004
I have never felt so alive in my life than during this trip! You allowed me to live a dream of mine with absolute safety and comfort. Bill, our guide, was phenomenal and the food was plentiful and literally gourmet fare. I loved it!
~ Tim LeMieur, Mt. Baker, 2004
This was an amazing experience. It was extremely challenging – both physically and mentally but the challenge led to great personal reward. The guides helped push me to achieve this goal, and to do it safely. It will be a long time before I stop thinking about what it was like to stand on that summit.
~ Michael McCarthy, Mt. Baker 2003
TOP
|
Virgin on Mount Baker
The making of a mountaineer
-- by Jackson Holtz, Mountain Madness client, 2004
I'm tied in at the end of a climbing rope, facing the dreaded Roman Headwall at 10,000 feet on the south face of Mount Baker, the 10,778-foot peak near the Canadian border in Western Washington. I've been climbing all morning and this is the final push for the summit.
Mark Ryman, my guide and the lead climber, has decided to take a route straight up the brown-colored ice of the 35-degree slope. The rest of the team is above me, kicking down loose pieces of pumice. I lean into the wall of ice and let my helmet do its job. Then I call out for the team to halt.
"How the hell am I supposed to climb this?" I shout up to Mark, who is three climbers ahead of me and almost over the crest of the headwall.
"The same way we learned yesterday," Mark shouts back. "Kick your front points into the ice and climb."
I'm not reassured. What I want to do is turn around and go home. I want to give up, but I can't. I'm roped in, in more ways than one, to a climbing team. I've paid a lot of money, and I've trained all summer. I keep going.
I'm not a mountaineer. I'm a desk job guy, in my mid-30's with an ever-increasing waist size that comes from a sedentary lifestyle. I decided to make a change, but I needed a goal. Early in the spring, I decided to climb Mount Baker. I did research and found Mountain Madness, a guiding company that offered a group trip over the three-day Labor Day weekend. The timing gave me all summer to train. This pudgy, mid-career professional signed up for an adventure.
I started training immediately to get into shape to make it up and down Baker. The materials I received explained that no previous experience was necessary, but the better condition my legs, lungs and heart were in, the more fun I'd have on the mountain. My regimen included working out with a trainer: doing squats and lunges and working with uneven surfaces to improve my balance. I did dips and pull ups to "be able to haul [my] ass out of a crevasse," as my trainer said. I rose early to climb stairs, jog and ride my bike. And most important, I went on long training hikes with increasing elevation.
After countless trips to REI and other outdoor gear shops, the weekend finally came. I checked and double checked my gear list and finally went to sleep for my last night in civilization. The time had come.
I met up with the two guides, Mark and Michael, and the rest of the group of six guys, five of them beginning climbers, too. The weather forecast for the North Cascades was clear and warm with light winds - perfect for climbing. I was scared to death.
The six-hour hike to base camp carrying a 60-pound pack was excruciating. The first mile or so of the hike wandered through a mostly flat meadow with a couple of river crossings. These were made hairy by narrow logs that were difficult to manage with all the weight on my back. One climber asked the guide if this is what the trail was like all the way up. "No," he answered, "this is flat."
After climbing 3,500 feet to about 6,500 feet of elevation, we set up high camp on a ledge at the foot of the Easton glacier. The views over the North Cascades, the San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island and the Olympic Peninsula only got better during the lengthy sunsets offered by the high altitude.
We spent that evening and the entire next day preparing for our summit climb. During the day we learned self-arrest techniques, how to walk in crampons and walking as a rope team. The rest of our time was spent preparing our gear for the summit climb and eating as much mountain grub as possible. Despite my usually insatiable appetite, I could barely eat - a combination of nerves and altitude.
"Hey guys, it's 2:30 a.m.," my tent mate, Dennis, woke me up saying. "Aren't we supposed to be up?"
We got up and quickly collected our gear and downed some breakfast. All I could stomach was some hot tea and an oat bar. We were ready to climb. We roped up in the dark, and with head lamps ablaze, started to climb. Soon we were high up on the glacier.
Every hour or so we stopped for a quick break. Since I was working hard, my body and clothes were drenched with sweat, and I felt cold in the chilly morning air. I also lacked carbohydrates and was shivering. I ate a package of Goo, the thick syrupy gel that provides fuel for athletes. It tasted good.
We kept going. In the early morning dusk, I watched Mount Rainier become awash in the brilliant hues of the sunrise. I also began to see in fuller light the route we were covering, including the narrow snow bridges over seemingly bottomless crevasses. Somehow, no one mentioned eight-inch wide, melting snow bridges in the marketing materials.
Steeper and steeper. I ate hard candies to pass the time and keep my sugar level up. I added a layer as a cold breeze picked up as we gained elevation. Finally, we set out on our final push and came to the Roman Headwall.
I kicked into the ice, and started climbing, like a ladder, one foot on top of the other. My crampons held, and after about 20 feet of climbing, I was off the ice and onto the loose pumice for the final 20 feet of the headwall.
Once I'd topped the Roman Headwall, the domed top felt easy, but precarious. On one side was a several-thousand-foot drop into the crater of the volcano where sulfur fumes seeped from gaping vents. On the other side was a huge crevasse, several-hundred feet wide with a glacier the size of a city skyscraper slowly breaking away.
Suddenly I realized I made it. I was standing on top of Mount Baker with tears streaming down my face. I had set out to climb a mountain, and I'd done it. I was fit, strong and standing on my own two feet.
Back down in the van on the way back to civilization, after 16 hours of hiking, three days of hard work and standing on the tallest mountain in the North Cascades, I had mountain climber's high - a mixture of exhaustion, dehydration, hypoxia and spent ambition combined with the glow of meeting my goal. Despite, and perhaps because of, being scared to death and pushed to new limits, I knew then that I would do this again. After all, now I'm a mountaineer.
TOP
|
|
