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2008 DATES: (4 days)
June 7-10
July 19-22
COST: $775
CLIENT TO GUIDE RATIO: 5:1
Climbing Grade: Beginner
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With numerous glaciers, tumbling waterfalls, and open alpine forests and meadows sprinkled among lava flows and rim rocks, majestic Mt. Adams is not only the second-highest peak in Washington at 12,276 feet, but also one of the most beautiful climbs around. As a composite volcano Adams resembles Mount Rainer almost as a mirror image and offers similar climbing opportunities, but with more solitude. From our route on the Mazama Glacier we have a close-up view of the jumbled Klickitat Glacier Icefall and unobstructed views of Mount Saint Helens, Mount Rainier, and Mount Hood.
Enjoy the beauty of the Cascades, experience altitude mountaineering, and develop your glacier and snow climbing skills as we climb Mt. Adams, a remote and seldom traveled volcano.Our ascent follows the aesthetic Mazama Glacier to the summit. Depending on conditions, we may also climb the Castle, a prominent sub-peak offering outstanding views. Expect a strenuous climb, offering valuable high altitude experience and beautiful views. Mt. Adams is an excellent training climb for other Cascade volcanoes, Denali, ascents in the Andes, or Aconcagua.
On this climb we will cover:
- Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots & harnesses
- Crampon use & snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques
- Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation
- Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards
- Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills
- Discussions will include proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics.
COST INCLUDES: Ground transportation from Seattle to Mt. Adams, all meals while on the mountain, tents, stoves, cook kits, group climbing equipment, and guide services.
COST DOES NOT INCLUDE: Airfare, hotel accommodations, transportation to/within Seattle, restaurant meals, guide gratuities, and personal equipment. A detailed equipment list will be sent to all participants.
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General Information
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WEATHER: Like all mountain ranges the weather in the Cascades is unpredictable and can roll in at any time limiting the productivity of your trip. Mountain Madness has no control over the weather and last minute decisions sometimes must be made to save the trip from being completely cancelled. Sometimes waiting for the weather to pass is the best plan of action and it is not unusual to sit in the rain for a few days. It is also possible that the rain may not clear up and traveling to the east side of the mountains to go rock climbing is the best plan.
QUALIFICATIONS: It is not necessary to have previous mountaineering experience for this climb. Your guides will teach you all of the skills necessary to safely ascend Mount Adams. However, this trip is rated strenuous and we can not over emphasize the importance of conditioning. By getting your heart, lungs and legs in top physical condition, you can focus on learning, and enjoy the high mountain environment. It is recommended that you have some camping and hiking experience. Because everyone is required to carry a share of the group’s equipment, be prepared to carry as much as 60 lbs. to base camp.
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Itinerary
Day 1: Drive five hours from Seattle to the trailhead at Bird Creek Meadows (5,600'). The hike to our spectacular high camp at Sunrise Pass (8,350'), between the Mazama and Klickitat glaciers, takes approximately four hours allowing us plenty of time to establish camp, discuss equipment usage and the essentials of glacier travel. We will learn basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self-arrest, and balance positioning.
Day 2: After an early morning breakfast, we discuss and practice in greater detail the essentials of glacier travel, self-arrest, and crevasse rescue. You have the opportunity to learn or review all the skills necessary to make a safe ascent to the 12,276' summit. We will also have time to discuss in detail the aspects of the climb necessary for safety and efficiency.
Day 3: After an alpine start (~2:00 am) and a quick breakfast, we will be up and on our way toward the summit. Depending on conditions and the pace of the group, it takes five to eight hours to reach the summit. From the top, we have stunning views of the morning sunlight rising above distant peaks. After descending, we will enjoy the afternoon and relax in camp.
Day 4: We break camp and head back to the trailhead. While the guides drive, you will have the chance to rest and to bask in your sense of accomplishment after a truly magnificent weekend.
NOTE ON THE ITINERARY: Although we do our very best to follow the schedule listed, the very nature of climbing in an alpine environment requires flexibility. This itinerary is subject to change due to inclement weather, unsafe route conditions, and other reasons beyond our control.
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Climb Equipment List
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The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Since you will be carrying all of your gear and a portion of the group gear, the items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!
The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.
Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin to keep you much warmer.
Mountain Madness guides and staff swear by Patagonia gear and we know that you will too. Besides having a strong commitment to the environment, Patagonia produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Patagonia. Find out what makes them "committed to the core."
Another company that we believe travel follows our two simple tenets (lightweight and functional) is OR ( Outdoor Research ). Born in the NW, our guides have used OR gear again and again because they know it works in the mountains and trust their quality and durability. Check Our Links page for a direct link.
Mountain Madness works closely with Second Ascent, a new and used gear store. If you are looking at trying to save some money, this is definitely the place to call. We stop at their store on our way out of Seattle on all Northwest trips. They are great at answering equipment questions and also ship anywhere in the US. They can be reached at (206) 545-8810.
We also work closely with Feathered Friends, a retailer in Seattle which also rents gear, and will offer a 10% discount on purchases if you are signed up for a Mountain Madness trip. Please feel free to call them at (206) 292-2210 or visit www.featheredfriends.com
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness* Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (i.e. Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
__ 2 locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 2 regular carabiners Light weight BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash* Light weight (ie Grivel Air tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snow Walker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic Mountaineering boots (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) Mandatory May – mid-July or Leather Mountaineering boots * from mid-July (i.e. La Sportiva Makalu, Boreal Asan or equivalent, must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Crampons* Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12)
__ Climbing helmet* Adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material, do not cut prior to trip!
__ Adjustable trekking poles*
Upper Body
__ Polypropylene T-shirt
__ Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
__ Soft Shell Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable)
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable after mid-July
__ Hard Shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers
__ 1 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves 1 pair gloves, fleece or wool
__ Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (OR.Cascade gloves or Shuksan mitts)
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic
__ Balaclava
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
Lower Body
__ 2 pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2 pair heavy wool/synthetic socks.Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 pair Soft shell pants (i.e., Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair nylon shorts. For July/Aug , running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ Light hiking shoes or trail shoes Optional July–Sept, for the hike to basecamp and use at camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
Sleeping Gear
__ Sleeping bag Rated to at least 20º F. Line the stuff sack w/ plastic bag.
__ Sleeping pad full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and/or ? length Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort
Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 5000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
__ Pack cover Optional
__ Summit Pack 1500-2000 cubic inch Lowe Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28
Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe)
__ Personal first aid kit. Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc, check out OR
__ Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
__ Insect repellant. Small bottle, from mid-July on
__ Headlamp. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini
__ Water bottles. Two 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder. With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Mug. Plastic w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__ Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best
__ Pocket knife. Small Swiss-Army type
__ Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ Large plastic bags. 2-3, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage waterproof optional (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Disposable lighters. Two, work better than matches for lighting stoves
__ Bandanas. One or two
__ Snacks and/or munchies. Bring your favorite “trail foods” or desserts, pack in Ziplocs. Avoid bringing more than you will need
__ Camera. Optional, large SLR types are not recommended
*Items can be rented from Mountain Madness
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