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Dates:(5 days)
All trips arranged on a custom basis- call to make your dates or join a group.
Land cost: $3,850 (1:1); $2,625 (2:1)
Climbing Grade: Advanced Beginner
familiarity with crampons and ice axe, and rock climbing experience.
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Second only in height to Mount Blanc, this majestic mountain rises high above the charming alpine village of Zermatt. The majority of the traverse is in Italy, where you'll enjoy four huts along the way that provide excellent food (you guessed it- pasta) and a warm bed. With light packs, an abundance of climbing objectives (yes, ten 4,000 meter peaks are at you fingertips), and Italian hospitality, this trip is perfect for advanced beginner mountaineers looking for a challenging, yet decadent climbing vacation. Join us on the Matterhorn after your Traverse- call for details! |
General Information on Monte Rosa
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Included in cost:
- group gear
- Mountain Madness guides
Not included in cost:
- international airfare
- hotel & hut accommodations
- gondola fees
- meals
- personal gear and other items of a personal nature
- additional charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Mountain Madness
- staff/guide gratuities.
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Itinerary
Day 1: Ascent of the Breithorn (4,164 m) and descent to Val d’Ayas hut (3,394 m). We take a cable car to the summit of the Klein Matterhorn (3,817 m) and then climb the Breithorn. The ascent is easy and allows us to review the mountaineering skills needed to complete the tour (i.e. cramponing, ice axe use, glacier travel, and more). The ascent takes around two hours. We then descend to the Breithorn Plateau and traverse to the Pollux where we evaluate the route for the next day’s ascent. We then travel to the Val d’Ayas hut where pleasant company and fine Italian cooking awaits us. The total time of today’s climb and descent is about 4-6 hours with about 520 meters of ascent.
Day 2: Today we ascend the southwest ridge of the Pollux (4,099 m) and the west face of Castor (4,228 m) before descending to the Quintino Sella hut (3,585 m). Pollux is technically more interesting than our climb of the Breithorn as it ascends a rocky ridge and involves some moderate scrambling. It is great fun and a tricky rock climbing pitch up high is easily negotiated with the assistance of some well placed chains. The next climb is Castor, which is easier and involves cramponing up moderate snow slopes. From the summit of Castor, we descend the southeast ridge to Felekjoch pass and down further to the Quintino Sella hut (3,585 m) for another pleasant evening. This should take about six to eight hours and involves around 860 m of ascent.
Day 3: Climbs today include Balmenhorn (4,167 m) and Pyramide Vincent (4,215 m), followed by the descent to the Cittá di Mantova hut (3,470 m). First we travel around the imposing mountain Lyskam. This is accomplished by climbing up and over a feature on the South ridge known as the “Naso”, or nose. The climb over the Naso will have us ascending moderate snow slopes and will require efficient use of the crampons. This climb is short, though and beyond this the travel is very easy to the Balmenhorn where there sits a bivouac hut and large statue of Christ. From here, easy snow slopes lead to the summit of Piramide Vincent followed by an easy descent to Cittá di Mantova hut, next stop on the our tour of high mountain Italian cooking. A short ways above this hut resides the highest chapel in the Alps at 3,611 meters in elevation (I guess you can get a little closer to God). This should see us out for around 6-8 hours while ascending about 800 meters.
Day 4: Ascents of the Schwarzhorn (4,321 m), Ludwigshöhe (4,341 m), Parrotspitze (4,432 m), and Signalkuppe (4,554 m) with stop at Margherita hut (4,554 m) for the night. Perhaps the most interesting day of the tour if not for the climbing, but for the fact that the hut we are staying in sits atop a peak, the Signalkuppe. It is the highest mountain hut in the Alps and is certainly a very special place. We start out by climbing up to the Schwarzhorn, a small peak not far from yesterday’s climbs. From here, the summit of the strangely named Ludwigshöhe (named after the first ascensionist’s first name) is easily reached by snow slopes. Now we climb a fine snow crest on up to the top of the Parrotspitze in about 1 1/2 hours from the Ludwigshöhe. An easy walk down snow slopes will get us to the summit of the Signalkuppe, one of the primary summits of the Monte Rosa massif (there are 10). The most distinguishing feature of this summit is the placement of a mountain hut, the Margherita hut (known to the Italians as the “Capana Margherita. This hut, built between 1890 and 1893, was personally opened by Queen Margherita and has been a favorite of alpinists ever since. To see the sunset from this high mountain after a wonderful day’s climb is a truly memorable experience. For many the night here will be the highlight of the trip. Today’s climbing will take about 7-8 hours and involve 1,400 meters of ascent.
Day 5: Ascent of Monte Rosa and descent to Zermatt. Yesterday’s hard work will pay off today, as today we have a relatively short climb to make to the summit of Monte Rosa. The climb, though short, will be varied and take us over some interesting, rocky terrain. We start by climbing Zumsteinspitze (4563 m), which is an easy snow slope. From here, we descend a narrow snow ridge to the Grenzsattel, which separates Zumsteinspitze from the higher Duforspitze (4,634 m), which is the highest of summit of the Monte Rosa massif and the highest point in Switzerland. We ascend the Southeast ridge to the summit and encounter some moderate scrambling and easy rock climbing along the way. It should take about three hours to reach the summit from the Margherita hut, covering 280 m. Our descent will be down the normal route on the Monte Rosa glacier which we follow down to the Monte Rosa hut. Here we will stop for a lunch break. Finally, we head on down to the Gorner glacier and climb one last, short (215 meters) hill back up to the Rotenboden station along the Gornergrat railway. We ride the train back to Zermatt where a hotel, warm shower and (yes) more good food awaits. This day should take us about 9-10 hours and will involve about 500 meters of ascent.
POSSIBLE EXTENSIONS: Matterhorn – 2 Days
Requirements: Good physical conditioning, competent use of crampons and ability to cover moderate rock scrambling terrain. You must be able to move for up to 8 hours each day. Acclimatization prior to the trip departure is strongly recommended. Hiking and/or climbing around Zermatt is a great way to do this while also getting familiar with the area and its surrounding mountains.
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Equipment List
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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in towns, to protecting you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of these climbs and are the minimum required for this trip.
You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.
Mountain Madness believes that all mountain travel equipment should follow two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Remember, you will be carrying all of your gear AND a portion of the group gear. Lightweight equipment increases your chance of success and helps make you more comfortable. Functional equipment determines how warm, dry, and safe you will be, so always choose equipment that is of good quality, is dependable, and is adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions.
Clothing impacts not only your comfort but also your safety. Always be critical of the quality and the proper fit of your clothing. Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin.
Our recommended clothing system has four layers.
- Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (Polypro, capilene, driclime)
- Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well. The main Softshell fabrics are Polartec Wind Pro, Gore Windstopper N2S, Schoeller and each clothing manufacturer has their own. 200 weight fleece can be substituted for our Soft Shell recommendations but is not as versatile on how it may be used when layering.
- Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable. (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
- Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)
These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.
Mountain Madness guides reccomend Mammut gear. Mammut produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Montrail offers a great range of footwear which will work well in the Alps. Another company that we recommend is Outdoor Research (OR). Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Mammut, Montrail and OR.
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
__ 2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
__ 2 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
__ Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic mountaineering boots * (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) Mandatory May – mid-July or Leather mountaineering boots from mid-July (e.g. Montrail Lotus GTX, Raichle All-Degree High GTX, La Sportiva Glacier - Makalu, or equivalent. Must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit * Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
__ Climbing helmet UIAA certified, adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ Adjustable trekking poles
Upper Body
__ Polypropylene T-shirt
__ Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
__ Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
__ 1 Heavy-weight jacket polartech 200-300 weight
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest (e.g. Mammut/Ajungilak Cloud Series, Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable after mid-July)
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
__ 1 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
__ Shell gloves Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (OR has a great selection)
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic
__ Balaclava
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
Lower Body
__ 2 Pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2 Pair heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 Pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 Pair soft shell pants (e.g. Mammut Champ pants, Patagonia Guide pants or Outdoor Research Granite pants) Schoeller fabrics
__ 1 Pair nylon shorts For July/Aug, running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (e.g. OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 2-3000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)
__ Personal first aid kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc. Check out OR
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp (e.g. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini)
__ 2 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ Large plastic bags 2, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, waterproof optional (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Camera Optional; large SLR types are not recommended
__ Small book Optional
__ Ear plugs blocks out snoring hut-mates
__ Food breakfast and dinner is provided at the huts. You must provide your own lunches
__ 1 Duffel bag city clothes can be left at hotel.
__ Passport & plane ticket make a copy of your passport and keep it in a separate place from your passport.
Other Items for your personal first aid kit:
__ Moleskin or Second Skin pads: bring a good supply to help care for blisters
__ Band-Aids and bandages: assorted sizes
__ Alcohol or betadine swabs: for small abrasions
__ Adhesive tape: a small roll
__ Scissors: a small pair
__ Moisturizer: helps keep hands and skin from cracking in dry climates
__ Knee braces: if you have had knee problems, braces may be helpful
__ Eye drops
__ Foot powder
__ Spare glasses/contact lenses
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