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Dates: (7 days)
All trips are arranged on a custom basis
Land cost*:
Client to guide ratio 1:1; $5,300
Client to guide ratio 2:1 $4,000
*The ascent of the Matterhorn is guided at a 1:1 on all trips.
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
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 An ascent of both Mt. Blanc and the Matterhorn offers a complete, truly rewarding European climbing experience. Mount Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps and offers a relatively straightforward, high altitude climb in a dramatic alpine setting suitable for both beginner and intermediate climbers. The magnificent scenery and final exposed summit ridge makes this perhaps the finest snow route in the Alps.
The Matterhorn is the most recognizable and dramatic mountain in the Swiss Alps. The ascent of the classic Hornli ridge provides moderate and exposed alpine climbing terrain. From the Hornli hut climbers gain 4000 feet of elevation before reaching the airy 14,697-foot summit!
During the trip participants enjoy the luxuries of the well-maintained hut system, European culture, and fabulous food. These added features make for a genuinely enjoyable climbing experience.
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General Information on Mont Blanc
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Included in cost:
- group gear
- Mountain Madness guides
Not included in cost:
- international airfare
- hotel & hut accommodations
- gondola fees
- meals
- personal gear and other items of a personal nature
- additional charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Mountain Madness
- staff/guide gratuities.
QUALIFICATIONS: Familiarity with crampons and ice axe, and rock climbing experience are required. Our Alpine Rock Seminar, Forbidden Peak, Colorado 14ers, and Red Rocks offer good preparation for the Matterhorn. The Mountain Madness Glacier Mountaineering Course and/or Summit Climb in the North Cascades are excellent ways to prepare for Mount Blanc.
For the Matterhorn we suggest that you are good at scrambling quickly and efficiently on moderately difficult terrain, with leather mountaineering boots on. This means very good balance and confidence in your feet, agility, and the efficient use of your body and energy. High angle rock climbing is good training for the ascent, but this climb is more about endurance and being able to move fast on easy to moderate terrain. You need to use your upper body less and your legs and balance more. Doing several long and exposed rock scrambles on 4th class terrain, or mixed 4th class and easy 5th class is ideal. Strive for increasingly faster times and longer routes. Training for the Matterhorn portion, in addition to rock climbing as much as possible, could include practice rock climbing with crampons on. On many ascents of the peak crampons on the upper portion of the mountain are used for snow, but due to time constraints are left on for the rock interspersed.
LEADERSHIP: All our Alps guides have undergone extensive training and examination, culminating in full U.I.A.G.M. certification, the highest level of internationally recognized certification. Combined with diverse guiding backgrounds and personal climbing and skiing experiences that include ascents of peaks in the Alps and the greater ranges of the world, our guides provide the best possible leadership available.
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Itinerary for the Mont Blanc & Matterhorn Combination
Travel day: Hotel Gustavia or hotel of your choice- Check in to your hotel and get organized for tomorrow’s departure and the beginning of your climb. Mountain Madness service begins in the morning day one of the itinerary.
Day 1: Petite Aiguille Vert -Your Mountain Madness guide will meet at your hotel in Chamonix. In order to acclimatize appropriately, we will climb the Petite Aiguille Vert above Argientiere. The route offers a very nice mixed climb with dramatic view of the Les Dru and the Argientiere Glacier. We will spend the night back in Chamonix.
Day 2: Acclimatization climb - We acclimatize by climbing one of the 4,000-meter peaks on the north side of the mountain. Possible options are the Tour Ronde or the Aiguile Du Tocule.
Day 3-4: Summit Mount Blanc - Depending on conditions and ability and we will have the option to climb Mount Blanc by different routes. If snow conditions are good we will climb the more technical Trois Mt. Blanc route that traverses Mt. Blanc de Tacal and Mt. Maudit. After the summit is reached we will descend via the Gouter route on the other side of the mountain.
Easier options are the traverse of Aig. De Bionnessay on the southern side of Mt. Blanc or the Gouter – normal route. From Gouter’s Hut we will climb up the slopes of Dome du Gouter and within 2 hours reach the Dome Col glacier before obtaining Bosses ridge, a beautiful and exposed ridge. We expect to arrive at the summit ridge by early morning. A 180 degree panoramic view of the French and Italian Alps can be seen from the summit. Return to Chamonix.
Day 5: Zermatt - We will travel to Zermatt.
Day 6: Hornli Hut - From Zermatt, we take the gondola to Schwarzsee. A two-three hour hike to 10,696 feet will reward us with breath-taking views of the Alps before we spend the night at the Hornli hut.
Day 7: Climb the Matterhorn – Today we will ascend the original Whymper route up the Hornli Ridge to reach the summit of one of the most photographed mountains in the Alps: the Matterhorn. Dramatic photo opportunities abound as we ascend the exposed ridge involving a 3rd and 4th class rock scramble and some belayed 5th class steps. After negotiating a section of snow and ice, we will reach the summit at 14,687 feet. We will descend back to Zermatt via telepherique.
NOTE ON ITINERARY: Since many of our climbers are already on business in Europe or on vacation our itinerary does not include travel time to and from your destination like our other international trip itineraries. Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.
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