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Dates: (7 days)
All trips are arranged on a custom basis
Land cost*:
Client to guide ratio 1:1; $5,300
Client to guide ratio 2:1 $4,000
*The ascent of the Matterhorn is guided at a 1:1 on all trips.
Climbing Grade: Intermediate
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 An ascent of both Mt. Blanc and the Matterhorn offers a complete, truly rewarding European climbing experience. Mount Blanc is the highest peak in the Alps and offers a relatively straightforward, high altitude climb in a dramatic alpine setting suitable for both beginner and intermediate climbers. The magnificent scenery and final exposed summit ridge makes this perhaps the finest snow route in the Alps.
The Matterhorn is the most recognizable and dramatic mountain in the Swiss Alps. The ascent of the classic Hornli ridge provides moderate and exposed alpine climbing terrain. From the Hornli hut climbers gain 4000 feet of elevation before reaching the airy 14,697-foot summit!
During the trip participants enjoy the luxuries of the well-maintained hut system, European culture, and fabulous food. These added features make for a genuinely enjoyable climbing experience.
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General Information on Mont Blanc
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Prerequisite: Familiarity with crampons and ice axe, and rock climbing experience. Our Alpine Rock Seminar, Forbidden Peak, Colorado 14ers, and Red Rocks offer good preparation for the Matterhorn. The Mountain Madness Glacier Mountaineering Course and/or Summit Climb in the North Cascades are excellent ways to prepare for Mount Blanc.
Included in cost:
- group gear
- Mountain Madness guides
Not included in cost:
- international airfare
- hotel & hut accommodations
- gondola fees
- meals
- personal gear and other items of a personal nature
- additional charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Mountain Madness
- staff/guide gratuities.
QUALIFICATIONS: For the Matterhorn we suggest that you are good at scrambling quickly and efficiently on moderately difficult terrain, with leather mountaineering boots on. This means very good balance and confidence in your feet, agility, and the efficient use of your body and energy. High angle rock climbing is good training for the ascent, but this climb is more about endurance and being able to move fast on easy to moderate terrain. You need to use your upper body less and your legs and balance more. Doing several long and exposed rock scrambles on 4th class terrain, or mixed 4th class and easy 5th class is ideal. Strive for increasingly faster times and longer routes. The west ridge of Forbidden and our Alpine rock Seminar in the North Cascades or the El Diente Traverse in Colorado are suggested trips. Training for the Matterhorn portion, in addition to rock climbing as much as possible, could include practice rock climbing with crampons on. On many ascents of the peak crampons on the upper portion of the mountain are used for snow, but due to time constraints are left on for the rock interspersed.
Mount Blanc climbers should be familiar with basic crampon and ice axe use. We suggest our Glacier Mountaineering Course or a Summit Climb in the North Cascades to prepare for Mount Blanc.
TRAINING PROGRAM: This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.
LEADERSHIP: All our Alps guides have undergone extensive training and examination, culminating in full U.I.A.G.M. certification, the highest level of internationally recognized certification. Combined with diverse guiding backgrounds and personal climbing and skiing experiences that include ascents of peaks in the Alps and the greater ranges of the world, our guides provide the best possible leadership available.
WEATHER: Be prepared for a wide range of temperatures; from freezing nights, to adverse snow and wind conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperature makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.
FOOD: Mountain Madness provides dinner and breakfast at the huts, but you must provide your lunch during the day. Bring along your favorite snacks for the summit day.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided will all trip confirmations.
RESCUE INSURANCE: For climbing technical peaks in Zermatt and Chamonix insurance can be purchased in town. Ask your guide for assistance.
HOW DO I SIGN UP? Please call our office if you do not already have an application, or you can download it off our website. We require an application and a $500 deposit for international trips. Please mail your application in or fax it to 206-937-1772 to reserve your spot. TOP
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Itinerary for the Mont Blanc & Matterhorn Combination
4 hotel & 3 hut nights
Travel day: Hotel Gustavia or hotel of your choice- Check in to your hotel and get organized for tomorrow’s departure and the beginning of your climb. Mountain Madness service begins in the morning., day one of the itinerary.
Day 1: Petite Aiguille Vert -Your Mountain Madness guide will meet at your hotel in Chamonix. In order to acclimatize appropriately, we will climb the Petite Aiguille Vert above Argientiere. The route offers a very nice mixed climb with dramatic view of the Les Dru and the Argientiere Glacier. We will spend the night back in Chamonix. H
Day 2: Acclimatization climb - We acclimatize by climbing one of the 4,000-meter peaks on the north side of the mountain. Possible options are the Tour Ronde or the Aiguile Du Tocule. R
Day 3-4: Summit Mount Blanc - Depending on conditions and ability and we will have the option to climb Mount Blanc by different routes. If snow conditions are good we will climb the more technical Trois Mt. Blanc route that traverses Mt. Blanc de Tacal and Mt. Maudit. After the summit is reached we will descend via the Gouter route on the other side of the mountain.
Easier options are the traverse of Aig. De Bionnessay on the southern side of Mt. Blanc or the Gouter – normal route. From Gouter’s Hut we will climb up the slopes of Dome du Gouter and within 2 hours reach the Dome Col glacier before obtaining Bosses ridge, a beautiful and exposed ridge. We expect to arrive at the summit ridge by early morning. A 180 degree panoramic view of the French and Italian Alps can be seen from the summit. Return to Chamonix. R, H
Day 5: Zermatt - We will travel to Zermatt. H
Day 6: Hornli Hut - From Zermatt, we take the gondola to Schwarzsee. A two-three hour hike to 13,123 feet will reward us with breath-taking views of the Alps before we spend the night at the Hornli hut. R
Day 7: Climb the Matterhorn – Today we will ascend the original Whymper route up the Hornli Ridge to reach the summit of one of the most photographed mountains in the Alps: the Matterhorn. Dramatic photo opportunities abound as we ascend the exposed ridge involving a 3rd and 4th class rock scramble and some belayed 5th class steps. After negotiating a section of snow and ice, we will reach the summit at 14,687 feet. We will descend back to Zermatt via telepherique. H
NOTE ON ITINERARY: Since many of our climbers are already on business in Europe or on vacation our itinerary does not include travel time to and from your destination like our other international trip itineraries. Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.
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Equipment List for the Mont Blanc & Matterhorn Combination
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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in towns, to protecting you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of these climbs and are the minimum required for this trip.
You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.
Mountain Madness believes that all mountain travel equipment should follow two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Remember, you will be carrying all of your gear AND a portion of the group gear. Lightweight equipment increases your chance of success and helps make you more comfortable. Functional equipment determines how warm, dry, and safe you will be, so always choose equipment that is of good quality, is dependable, and is adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions.
Clothing impacts not only your comfort but also your safety. Always be critical of the quality and the proper fit of your clothing. Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin.
Our recommended clothing system has four layers.
- Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (Polypro, capilene, driclime)
- Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well. The main Softshell fabrics are Polartec Wind Pro, Gore Windstopper N2S, Schoeller and each clothing manufacturer has their own. 200 weight fleece can be substituted for our Soft Shell recommendations but is not as versatile on how it may be used when layering.
- Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable. (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
- Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)
These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.
Mountain Madness guides reccomend Mammut gear. Mammut produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Montrail offers a great range of footwear which will work well in the Alps. Another company that we recommend is Outdoor Research (OR). Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Mammut, Montrail and OR.
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
__ 2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
__ 2 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
__ Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic mountaineering boots * (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) Mandatory May – mid-July or Leather mountaineering boots from mid-July (e.g. Montrail Lotus GTX, Raichle All-Degree High GTX, La Sportiva Glacier - Makalu, or equivalent. Must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit * Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
__ Climbing helmet UIAA certified, adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ Adjustable trekking poles
Upper Body
__ Polypropylene T-shirt
__ Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
__ Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
__ 1 Heavy-weight jacket polartech 200-300 weight
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest (e.g. Mammut/Ajungilak Cloud Series, Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable after mid-July)
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
__ 1 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
__ Shell gloves Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (OR has a great selection)
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic
__ Balaclava
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
Lower Body
__ 2 Pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2 Pair heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 Pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 Pair soft shell pants (e.g. Mammut Champ pants, Patagonia Guide pants or Outdoor Research Granite pants) Schoeller fabrics
__ 1 Pair nylon shorts For July/Aug, running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (e.g. OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 2-3000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)
__ Personal first aid kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc. Check out OR
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp (e.g. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini)
__ 2 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ Large plastic bags 2, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, waterproof optional (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Camera Optional; large SLR types are not recommended
__ Small book Optional
__ Ear plugs blocks out snoring hut-mates
__ Food breakfast and dinner is provided at the huts. You must provide your own lunches
__ 1 Duffel bag city clothes can be left at hotel.
__ Passport & plane ticket make a copy of your passport and keep it in a separate place from your passport.
Other Items for your personal first aid kit:
__ Moleskin or Second Skin pads: bring a good supply to help care for blisters
__ Band-Aids and bandages: assorted sizes
__ Alcohol or betadine swabs: for small abrasions
__ Adhesive tape: a small roll
__ Scissors: a small pair
__ Moisturizer: helps keep hands and skin from cracking in dry climates
__ Knee braces: if you have had knee problems, braces may be helpful
__ Eye drops
__ Foot powder
__ Spare glasses/contact lenses
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