As seen from many areas in Central Switzerland, the Jungfrau, Mönch, and the Eiger make up the breathtaking mountain backdrop of the Bernese Oberland. Their massive, glaciated faces contrast with the green, pastoral landscapes below, to form an impressive scene. The trio sits together above turquoise lakes surrounding the town of Interlakken and the small mountain villages of Grindelwald and Wengen. All three mountains have a striking beauty in their pyramidal forms, and are considered among the most classic of all mountains in the Alps. Literally, the names translate to the Young Lady, the Monk, and the Ogre.

The Jungfrau and the Mönch are both relatively easy alpine climbs, involving some scrambling. In contrast, the Eiger is a more formidable challenge and is one of the most sought after summits in the world. All three can be accessed from the amazing Jungfraubahn, a train that starts in Interlakken and tunnels through the mountains (mostly the Eiger) before arriving at a high pass, the Jungfraujoch, situated between the Jungfrau and the Mönch. The train ride is spectacular and makes several stops along the way. After departing from Interlakken, you can ride the train either through the car-less village of Wengen, or through the hamlet of Grindelwald at the foot of the Eiger. Either way, the train lines converge at the hilltop stop, Klein Scheidegg, which is famous for its amazing views of the North face of the Eiger. The White Spider , by Heinrich Harrer, is highly recommended reading for anyone considering a trip to the region. Besides being an amazing mountaineering story, it provides an excellent introduction to this area. Much of the story is told from the views of those at the hotel located at Klein Scheidegg.

From Klein Scheidegg the train continues up along the cog railway to another stop at the Eiger Glacier. Here, there are amazing views of the lesser known, but no less impressive North Faces of the Mönch and Jungfrau ? both replete with chaotically beautiful icefalls. The train line now takes us into the Eiger. Inside there is a stop at a portal in the North face, allowing us a chance to peer out to this most famous and terrifyingly steep alpine wall. The next stop is at yet another portal, the Eismeer Station. This is the point of departure for those attempting the Mittellegi Ridge route on the Eiger. You literally step out of a door in the side of the mountain and out onto the glacier to begin your approach.

Finally, the train arrives at the Jungfraujoch, and the Sphinx Station, elevation 3,454 meters. This is the end of the line and the point of departure for climbs on the Jungfrau and the Mönch, as well as the mountain hut known as the Mönchsjochhutte. From this station there is an amazing panorama. The views down the immense glacier system to the north (the largest in the Alps) are very impressive. To the south, you can peer all the way down to Interlakken and its surrounding lakes far below. The train ride alone is worth the trip.

Dates: Custom itineraries can be arranged July - early September.

Land Costs*:

OPTION 1: Intro to the Bernese Oberland: Mönch & Jungfrau, 5 days
1:1 - $3,850
2:1 - $2,675 per person

OPTION 2: Eiger Prep & Eiger Climb, 5 days
1:1 - $3,850

OPTION 3: The Bernese Oberland Trio: Eiger, Mönch, & Jungfrau, 7 days
1:1 - $5,300
2:1 - $4,150 per person

*The ascent of the Eiger is guided at a 1:1 on all trips.

Climbing Grade: Intermediate

Prerequisite: Familiarity with crampons and ice axe, and rock climbing experience. Our Alpine Rock Seminar, Forbidden Peak, El Diente in Colorado, and Red Rocks offer good preparation.

Included in cost:

• group gear
  
  
• Mountain Madness guides
  

Not included in cost:

• International airfare
  
• hotel & hut accommodations
  
• gondola fees
  
• meals
  
• personal gear and other items of a personal nature
  
• additional charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Mountain Madness
  
• staff/guide gratuities
  

General Information on The Bernese Oberland Trio


The Climbs
Together, the Jungfrau and Mönch make an excellent all around introduction to the art and skill of alpine climbing. Both offer real climbing, though never exceedingly difficult, and are conveniently located near the same base. Both are climbed from the Mönchsjochhutte, a high mountain hut situated at 3,650 m. The hut is reached in about 45 minutes from the train station at the Jungfraujoch (the Sphinx Station). The hut is very roomy and charming. As with most European huts, there is no need to bring any camping or cooking gear. Bunks with bedding and a three-course meal, as well as breakfast, are provided. Now that is mountain living!

The Mönch via the Southeast Ridge: 2:1 client to guide ratio

The Mönch is a shorter climb than the Jungfrau and is a good first choice. The normal route ascends the southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward and is easily approached in about ten minutes walk from the hut. After the short, initial snow slopes, the scrambling begins. Most of the rock is easily negotiated, but a few sections require a bit more prudence. Still, the climb is adequately suited for those with little rock climbing experience. After the rock comes the final snow ridge which is very easy, but longer than it appears. The summit is reached in about two to three hours after leaving the hut. From here, you can enjoy the marvelous views of the neighboring peaks including the Eiger and the Jungfrau.

The descent reverses our ascent route and takes about one to two hours. The afternoon can be spent either practicing further mountaineering skills on the glacier near the hut or just relaxing on the deck and taking in the surrounding scenery.

The Jungfrau via the Rottasattel: 2:1 client to guide ratio

This is an excellent all around alpine climb. It is a relatively big mountain and though not technically difficult, it does provide a good challenge in moderate scrambling and steep snow climbing. It is an excellent introduction to a variety of alpine climbing techniques and a very worthwhile summit. To admire it afterwards from below, reflected in the waters of the distant Thunzee Lake is a truly rewarding experience.

After an early wake up, usually around 4:30 or 5:00 am, we begin with breakfast and head back out towards the Sphinx Station. In an hour or so, we have crossed the glacier to the base of a rocky spur at the foot of the mountain ? a nice way to ease into the morning. From here, we climb up the rocky terrain and encounter a short section of moderate scrambling. Once above the rocks, we arrive on a broad snow ridge where we are often treated to beautiful morning alpenglo as the sun lights up the East face of the Jungfrau.

We now travel along this ridge, which eventually steepens to about 35º. From here, we traverse out to a small saddle, the Rottasattel, below the upper southeast ridge of the mountain. As we gain this ridge, the angle steepens and, depending on snow conditions, we may begin to climb with belayed pitches to the top. This last bit is some of the most spectacular climbing and scenery on the route, with amazing views down to the valleys below. The angle never exceeds 45º. The summit is quite small and offers a fantastic mountain panorama from Mont Blanc to the Matterhorn and many of the mountains of Eastern Switzerland. The ascent should take four to five hours from the hut.

The descent is made by reversing our ascent route and must be made before too late in the morning for fear of deteriorating snow conditions. Any difficult sections encountered on the way up are easily bypassed by rappelling from any of the numerous fixed anchor points along the way. After about two to three hours, we arrive back at the Sphinx Station.

QUALIFICATIONS: Though climbing either the Mönch or the Jungfrau is not technically difficult, both are high mountains and do require excellent physical conditioning. There is some moderate rock scrambling and easy snow climbing and prior mountaineering experience is needed. Acclimatization prior to the trip departure is strongly recommended for your safety and chance of success. Hiking and/or climbing around Grindelwald/Interlakken is a great way to do this while also getting familiar with the area and its surrounding mountains.

The Eiger via the Mittellegi Ridge: 1:1 client to guide ratio

The Mittellegi Ridge on the Eiger is a true alpine climbing classic. Though not as famous as its more challenging neighbor, the North Face, the Mittellegi Ridge is a wonderful route on excellent rock. It ascends a tremendously exposed ridge to the summit of one of the most famous mountains in the Alps. This two-day climb makes use of a conveniently located hut perched in an amazingly dramatic position, high along the ridge. Use of this hut allows us to climb relatively unencumbered. The Mittellegi hut is one of the finest huts found anywhere. Immaculately constructed and well maintained, a night spent here is a real delight.

Getting to the hut is no simple task, however. We start out from the valley by cog train and travel through the Eiger as the train tunnels its way towards the Sphinx Station at the Jungfraujoch. After the brief stop at the North Face portal, the train arrives at the Eismeer station, on the South side of the mountain. It is here that we exit the train and our adventure starts.

Upon exiting the small door in the side of the mountain, we begin by traversing the Challifirn glacier for a while, briefly skirting a small sérac zone. We then gain the rocky headwall below the hut. A few pitches of easy-moderate rock climbing (5.5 to 5.6) brings us to a ledge system. From here we traverse for quite a while until, finally, we can scramble up to the ridge crest and the hut. This hut is perched right on the edge of the ridge and slightly overhangs the North side where the distant village of Grindelwald can be seen below.

The following morning we start out before dawn and follow the ridge up to the summit. The climbing is excellent, though never too difficult. There are fixed ropes in a few sections to assist us in the more difficult climbing. The exposure is tremendous here, as the ridge we climb is a rock fin, slicing through the air to the summit of the Eiger. After about 4-5 hours we arrive at the summit of the Eiger.

The descent begins down the south ridge. Though relatively straightforward, this descent does involve a lot of scrambling and several rappels. At the base of the ridge we reach the north and south Eigerjochs. These small passes separate the Eiger from the nearby Mönch and must be climbed in order to reach the base of the Mönch. Once here, the going is easy and there is another nice mountain hut where we can take lunch and a short rest. After 30 minutes of walking we arrive at the Sphinx Station where we can board the train that will take us to the valley below.

QUALIFICATIONS: This intermediate level alpine ascent involves technical rock climbing and requires previous mountaineering experience on technical terrain as well as excellent physical condition. Acclimatization prior to the trip departure is strongly recommended for your safety and chance of success.

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Itineraries for The Bernese Oberland Trio

OPTION 1- Intro to the Bernese Oberland: Mönch & Jungfrau, 5 days

Day 1: ACCLIMATIZATION HIKE. After a rendezvous in Interlakken we will head out and explore the local area while familiarizing ourselves with the mountains we plan on climbing in the next few days. We will try to get up to a moderate altitude to aid in our acclimatization process. This is very important to both your health and the chances of your success on the higher peaks. We return to Interlakken for the evening.

Day 2: SKILLS TRAINING. Today we will further our acclimatization process and practice some of the skills to be used in the coming days climbs. Depending on weather and conditions, we will either go ice climbing on a local glacier, rock climbing or perhaps scramble up a lower peak. Tonight we will return to Interlakken or stay at the guesthouse at the Eiger glacier.

Day 3: ASCENT TO MöNCHSJOCHHUTTE. We board the Jungfraubahn train and ride it all the way up to the Sphinx Station at the Jungfraujoch. After admiring the view from here, we make the easy 45 minute walk on over to the Mönchsjochhutte, where we will spend the evening. Any extra time in the afternoon will be spent reviewing skills on the glacier outside the hut.

Day 4: ASCENT OF MöNCH. Today we make an attempt to climb the nearby Mönch. The climb and descent should take about 4-5 hours, leaving plenty of time in the afternoon for rest and/or further review.

Day 5: ASCENT OF JUNGFRAU. This is a long climb, though no more technically difficult than the Mönch. After a pre-dawn start, we should make the summit in around 4-5 hours. Expect another 2-3 for the descent. This is a very rewarding climb, after which we make our way down to enjoy the comforts of lovely Interlakken.

OPTION 2- Eiger Prep & Eiger Climb, 5 days

Day 1: ROCK CLIMBING. We start by refreshing our rock climbing skills on some local rock. You will get familiar with the shapes, textures and feel of the type of rock to be encountered on the Eiger. This is also an opportunity for your guide to evaluate your skills and a give you helpful insight into developing your efficiency and technique.

Day 2: ASCENT TO GLECKENSTEIN HUT. Today we hike up from the village of Grindelwald to the Gleckenstein hut. This will be our base for attempting the Wetterhorn, a perfect training and acclimatization peak in preparation for the Eiger. It is also a very beautiful, alpine setting amidst the dramatic grandeur of the Bernese Oberland. Often, there are wild Ibex (called Steinbock) grazing on the flowers and grasses nearby the hut. It is an inspirational setting.

Day 3: ASCENT OF WETTERHORN. As we ascend this striking peak also climbed by Winston Churchill, we will continue practicing movement and roped climbing skills. These skills will help us to climb efficiently as a team on the Eiger. After the descent, we will head back down to Grindelwald, prepare for the Eiger and spend the night in the comforts of a hotel.

Day 4: ASCENT TO MITTELLEGI HUT. This is a short day, and a fun one. We ride the cog train through the Eiger and get off at the Eismeer station where we exit through a door in the mountain onto the glacier. We traverse the glacier and do a few pitches of rock climbing, followed by more scrambling before arriving at the loftily perched Mittellegi hut. This is a very pleasant place to spend the afternoon relaxing in the sun.

Day 5: ASCENT OF EIGER. We start out before dawn and follow the ridge up to the summit. The climbing is excellent, though never too difficult. There are fixed ropes in a few sections to assist us in the more difficult climbing. After about 4-5 hours we arrive at the summit of the Eiger. The descent is down the south ridge to the Mönchsjoch, and then to the Sphinx Station, where we can board a train back down to Grindelwald.

Be aware that Mother Nature can render the Eiger "out of condition" at any given time. We have designed some flexibility into this schedule and your guide will do his or her best to try and accommodate this and other possible issues to give you the best chances for achieving your goals.

OPTION 3- The Bernese Oberland Trio: Eiger, Mönch, & Jungfrau, 7 days

This is the ultimate Bernese Oberland adventure, combining climbs of all three of its most classic mountains. Though ambitious, this threesome is a great goal for those with previous technical mountaineering experience. Weather permitting, it is a very achievable feat and promises to be an extremely rewarding and memorable experience.

Day 1: ACCLIMATIZATION HIKE. After a rendezvous in Interlakken we will head out and explore the local area while familiarizing ourselves with the mountains we plan on climbing in the next few days. We will try to get up to a moderate altitude to aid in our acclimatization process. This is very important to both your health and the chances of your success on the higher peaks. We return to Interlakken for the evening.

Day 2: ASCENT TO MITTELLEGI HUT. This is a short day, though a fun one. We ride the cog train through the Eiger and get off at the Eismeer station where we exit through a door in the mountain onto the glacier. We traverse the glacier and do a few pitches of rock climbing, followed by more scrambling before arriving at the loftily perched Mittellegi hut. This is a very pleasant place to spend the afternoon relaxing in the sun.

Day 3: ASCENT OF EIGER. We start out before dawn and follow the ridge up to the summit. The climbing is excellent, though never too difficult. There are fixed ropes in a few sections to assist us in the more difficult climbing. After about 4-5 hours we arrive at the summit of the Eiger. The descent is down the south ridge to the Mönchsjoch and then to the Sphinx Station where we can board a train back down to Interlakken.

Day 4: ACTIVE REST. Today we will spend our time recovering from yesterday?s efforts on the Eiger. We may go for an easy hike to keep our acclimatization. The Eiger trail, which traverses under the infamous North face, is an excellent choice.

Day 5: ASCENT TO MöNCHSJOCHHUTTE. We board the Jungfraubahn train and ride it all the way up to the Sphinx Station at the Jungfraujoch. After admiring the view from here, we make the easy 45 minute walk on over to the Mönchsjochhutte, where we will spend the evening. Any extra time in the afternoon will be spent reviewing skills on the glacier outside the hut.

Day 6: ASCENT OF MöNCH. Today we make an attempt to climb the nearby Mönch. The climb and descent should take about 4-5 hours, leaving plenty of time in the afternoon for rest and/or further review.

Day 7: ASCENT OF JUNGFRAU. This is a long climb, though not any harder than the Mönch. After a pre-dawn start, we should make the summit in around 4-5 hours. Expect another 2-3 hours for the descent. This is a very rewarding climb, after which we make our way down to enjoy the comforts of lovely Interlakken.




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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in towns, to protecting you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of these climbs and are the minimum required for this trip.

You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.

The emphasis on equipment necessary for mountain travel follows two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. The items you choose to take should be lightweight, dependable, and adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions. The quality of the equipment you choose has a lot to do with how warm, dry, and safe you will remain so be critical of quality and the proper fit of clothing. Comfort lends itself to a more enjoyable experience!

The layering system outlined is usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder, bring one extra medium layer such as a vest, which would be ideal for extra warmth around camp. When making the final decision as to what goes into your pack, remember that it's a fine science of taking just enough clothes and accessories to do the job, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably will not use.

Cotton clothing should be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Opt instead for wool or synthetics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin and keep you much warmer.

CLIMBING GEAR

__ climbing harness* Must be adjustable and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners* Large, pear-shaped carabiners are best—we recommend
screw gate type
__ 2 regular carabiners* Regular oval carabiners are recommended
__ ski poles useful for stream crossings, descents and snow
travel (highly recommended)
__ ice axe* Under 5’8” use 60cm, 5’8”- 6’0” use 65cm, over 6’ use
70cm
__ climbing boots Crampon compatible leather boots are best for easy rock and snow climbs
__ crampons 12-point crampons that securely fit your boots
__ Climbing helmet UIAA certified head protection

CLOTHING

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3-Layer Insulating System: Capilene and Polypro are best for inner layers
__ 2 lightweight synthetic shirts – One long sleeve and one short
__ 1 fleece shirt – polartech 100 weight with zip-T for ventilation
__ 1 heavy-weight jacket - polartech 200-300 weight
__ waterproof parka - hooded shell layer that should fit over all three layers above—must be waterproof/breathable fabric (Gore-tex or equivalent).
__ Down sweater

Bottoms

__ 1 pair light weight underwear - Capilene or polypropylene—No Cotton
__ 1 pair nylon shorts - running shorts or other quick drying type
__ 1 pair fleece or light synthetic pants- Light or Mid weight
__ 1 pair rain pants - Must be waterproof and beathable! 2-ply Gore-tex fabric or equivalent is best.
__ 2 pair medium weight socks - Check boot fit with socks on Wool/Synthetic blends are best.
__ 1 pair gaiters - Tall / to just below the knee; Velcro closures are ideal-make sure they will fit over boots.

Handwear

__ 2 pair light gloves - thin wool or poly glove liners for dexterity
__ 1 pair insulated shell gloves - combine dexterity with weather protection
__ 1 warm hat - wool or synthetic—many climbers also use a thin balaclava in addition to their hat. Wind Stopper products are always great.
__ 1 shade hat - baseball cap or visor

MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT

__ pack - internal frame is best, approx. 2000-3000 cubic inches capacity
__ pocket knife - swiss army type
__ lip balm (bring 2) - at least 30 SPF
__ sunscreen - at least 30 SPF
__ toiletries - toothbrush, toilet paper-you must pack it out (keep very limited)
__ 2 large plastic bags - keeps misc. gear dry
__ small book - optional
__ 2 water bottles - 1- liter wide-mouth; bring to trail head full
__ 1 pr. Sunglasses - 100% UV protection; side shields can be purchased separately
__ 1 nylon stuff sack - food storage containers; large ziplocks are useful
__ butane lighter
__ headlamp - with spare bulb and batteries—must be Petzel or equivalent suitable for mountaineering
__ first aid kit - basics: moleskin / blister kit, Band-Aids, aspirin, etc. Your guide will carry a complete kit
__ street clothes & shoes
__ camera and film
__ ear plugs - blocks out snoring hut-mates
__ food - Breakfast and Dinner are provided at the huts. You must provide your own lunch for 2 days.
__ one duffel bag - City clothes can be left at hotel.
__ passport & plane ticket – make a copy of your passport and keep it in a separate place from your passport.

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