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 These peaks are considered among the most classic in the Alps. From the climbing centers of Wenden, Zermatt, and Chamonix we stage our ascents for these easy to moderate climbing objectives. The Jungfrau (13,638ft/4,158m) and Mönch (13,445ft/4,099m) are both relatively easy alpine climbs, involving some scrambling and straightforward glacier travel. Monte Rosa (15,203ft/4,633m) offers easy glacier travel with an exposed rock scramble to the summit of this massive peak. And to cap things off, we climb the Alps highest peak, Mount Blanc (15,771ft/4,807m), over easy to moderate glacier slopes to complete this whirlwind tour of four of the Alps finest peaks!
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General Information on Alps Classic Climbs
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Included in cost:
Not included in cost:
- international airfare
- hotel & hut accommodations
- gondola fees
- meals
- personal gear and other items of a personal nature
- staff/guide gratuities.
TRAINING PROGRAM:This trip is physically demanding and we cannot over emphasize the importance of physical conditioning. We suggest you begin your training program at least two months prior to departure. While strength is important, endurance training should be your primary focus. Walking up hills and stair climbing are both excellent ways to condition your lower body. Begin slowly, without the weight of a pack, eventually adding weight as you increase your training pace. Take a long hike (4-6 hours) several times with a weighted pack (40-60 lbs.) up and down hills or on small mountains (weight your pack with water containers and pour out the water before your descent to minimize knee stress). Supplement this activity with running, cycling, swimming, racquet sports, basketball, etc. for additional aerobic conditioning. If possible try to take at least two longer hikes of 6-10 hours with at least 3,000 feet of elevation gain. Several days before your departure you should rest and drink plenty of water.
LEADERSHIP: All our Alps guides have undergone extensive training and examination, culminating in full U.I.A.G.M. certification, the highest level of internationally recognized certification. Combined with diverse guiding backgrounds and personal climbing and skiing experiences that include ascents of peaks in the Alps and the greater ranges of the world, our guides provide the best possible leadership available.
WEATHER: Be prepared for a wide range of temperatures; from freezing nights, to adverse snow and wind conditions, to bright sunshine intensified by the high altitude. This wide fluctuation in temperature makes it important to bring everything on the equipment list.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided will all trip confirmations.
RESCUE INSURANCE: For climbing technical peaks in Zermatt and Chamonix insurance can be purchased in town. Ask your guide for assitance.
HOW DO I SIGN UP? Please call our office if you do not already have an application, or you can download it off our website. We require an application and a $500 deposit for international trips. Please mail your application in or fax it to 206-937-1772 to reserve your spot.
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Itinerary
Day 1: Ascent to Monchsjochhutte: We board the Jungfraubahn train and ride it all the way up to the Sphinx Station at the Jungfraujoch. After admiring the view from here, we make the easy 45 minute walk on over to the Mönchsjochhutte, where we will spend the evening. Any extra time in the afternoon will be spent reviewing skills on the glacier outside the hut. R
Day 2: Ascent of Monch: Today we climb the nearby Mönch. The climb and descent should take about 4-5 hours, leaving plenty of time in the afternoon for rest and/or further review. This is an enjoyable, but not overly strenuous day. R
Day 3: Ascent of Jungfrau: This is a long climb, though not any harder than the Mönch. After a pre-dawn start, we should make the summit in around 4-5 hours. Expect another 2-3 hours for the descent. This is a very rewarding climb, after which we make our way down to enjoy the comforts of lovely village of Wengen. H
Day 4: Travel to Zermatt. Today will be a rest day.
Day 5: Monte Rosa approach. We begin with a cograil train ride up to Rotenboden. From there it is a straightforward hike across the dry glacier to the Monte Rosa hut where we prepare for the climb and go to sleep early at hut. R
Day 6: Climb Monte Rosa. Today is a long one with a lengthy glacier ascent followed by some airy rock scrambling to the Alps’s second highest peak. We have the option after the climb to spend the night at the hut if our day is extra long, or we descend to Zermatt for some much needed rest and relaxation. H
Day 7: Travel to Chamonix. Hotel night. H
Day 8-9: Summit Mt. Blanc – Depending on conditions and everyone’s ability and fitness we will have the option to climb Mt Blanc by different routes. If snow conditions are good we will climb Mt. Blanc by the more technical Trois Mt. Blanc or Traverse Integral route that traverses Mt. Blanc de Tacal and Mt. Maudit. After the summit is reached we will descend via the Gouter route on the other side of the mountain.
Other options are the traverse of Aig. De Bionnessay on the southern side of Mt. Blanc or the Gouter – normal route*. From Gouter’s Hut we will climb up the slopes of Dome du Gouter and within 2 hours reach the Dome Col Glacier before obtaining Bosses ridge, a beautiful and exposed ridge. We expect to arrive at the summit ridge by early morning. A 180 degree panoramic view of the French and Italian Alps can be seen from the summit. Return to Chamonix. R & H
Day 10: reserve day. H
NOTE ON ITINERARY: Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control.
QUALIFICATIONS: Alps Classic climbers should be familiar with basic crampon and ice axe use. We suggest our Glacier Mountaineering Course or a Summit Climb in the North Cascades to prepare for Mount Blanc. Also, some rock scrambling experience is suggested.
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Equipment List
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A variety of clothing will be necessary for your trip. You will need clothing for dining in towns, to protecting you from the cooler temperatures in the mountains. This list is designed to help you choose the right gear for the demands of these climbs and are the minimum required for this trip.
You are expected to provide the following personal equipment. These items are mandatory for survival in the mountains, so make sure you have everything on the list.
Mountain Madness believes that all mountain travel equipment should follow two simple tenets: Lightweight and Functional. Remember, you will be carrying all of your gear AND a portion of the group gear. Lightweight equipment increases your chance of success and helps make you more comfortable. Functional equipment determines how warm, dry, and safe you will be, so always choose equipment that is of good quality, is dependable, and is adaptable to a variety of extreme conditions.
Clothing impacts not only your comfort but also your safety. Always be critical of the quality and the proper fit of your clothing. Cotton clothing must be avoided because it dries very slowly and is a poor insulator when wet. Instead, choose wool or synthetic fabrics that "wick" the sweat and moisture away from your skin.
Our recommended clothing system has four layers.
- Base layer: manages moisture and wicks perspiration away from your skin. (Polypro, capilene, driclime)
- Softshell: should be a durable, comfortable, insulating and wind/water resistant layer that breathes well. The main Softshell fabrics are Polartec Wind Pro, Gore Windstopper N2S, Schoeller and each clothing manufacturer has their own. 200 weight fleece can be substituted for our Soft Shell recommendations but is not as versatile on how it may be used when layering.
- Hard shell: windproof, waterproof and breathable. (e.g. Gore-Tex, or similar)
- Insulating layer: should be down-fill or synthetic-fill and fit over all layers. (e.g. down, primaloft or polarguard)
These four layers are usually sufficient for most people, but if you tend to be colder bring one extra medium-layer that would be ideal for extra warmth around camp, such as a vest. When deciding what to pack, remember to bring enough clothes and accessories to ensure your safety and comfort, while not over-burdening yourself with items you probably won’t use.
Mountain Madness guides reccomend Mammut gear. Mammut produces some of the finest outdoor gear in the industry. Montrail offers a great range of footwear which will work well in the Alps. Another company that we recommend is Outdoor Research (OR). Check “Our Links” on the Mountain Madness homepage for a direct link to Mammut, Montrail and OR.
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
__ 2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
__ 2 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
__ Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic mountaineering boots * (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) Mandatory May – mid-July or Leather mountaineering boots from mid-July (e.g. Montrail Lotus GTX, Raichle All-Degree High GTX, La Sportiva Glacier - Makalu, or equivalent. Must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit * Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
__ Climbing helmet UIAA certified, adjustable, should fit with hat on
__ Adjustable trekking poles
Upper Body
__ Polypropylene T-shirt
__ Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
__ Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
__ 1 Heavy-weight jacket polartech 200-300 weight
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest (e.g. Mammut/Ajungilak Cloud Series, Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable after mid-July)
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
__ 1 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
__ Shell gloves Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (OR has a great selection)
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic
__ Balaclava
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
Lower Body
__ 2 Pair of liner socks Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2 Pair heavy wool/synthetic socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 Pair lightweight long underwear Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 1 Pair soft shell pants (e.g. Mammut Champ pants, Patagonia Guide pants or Outdoor Research Granite pants) Schoeller fabrics
__ 1 Pair nylon shorts For July/Aug, running shorts or other quick-drying type, not cotton!
__ Shell pants Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ Gaiters Make sure they will fit over plastic boots. (e.g. OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
Backpack
__ Internal frame pack 2-3000 cubic inch capacity, avoid unnecessary options that add weight
Miscellaneous Equipment
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)
__ Personal first aid kit Basics: moleskin/blister kit, Band-Aids, first-aid tape, ibuprofen, personal medications, etc. Check out OR
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp (e.g. Petzl Myo3 or Black Diamond Gemini)
__ 2 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene and 1 bottle holster, or
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube and 1 Nalgene bottle
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ Large plastic bags 2, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage, waterproof optional (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Camera Optional; large SLR types are not recommended
__ Small book Optional
__ Ear plugs blocks out snoring hut-mates
__ Food breakfast and dinner is provided at the huts. You must provide your own lunches
__ 1 Duffel bag city clothes can be left at hotel.
__ Passport & plane ticket make a copy of your passport and keep it in a separate place from your passport.
Other Items for your personal first aid kit:
__ Moleskin or Second Skin pads: bring a good supply to help care for blisters
__ Band-Aids and bandages: assorted sizes
__ Alcohol or betadine swabs: for small abrasions
__ Adhesive tape: a small roll
__ Scissors: a small pair
__ Moisturizer: helps keep hands and skin from cracking in dry climates
__ Knee braces: if you have had knee problems, braces may be helpful
__ Eye drops
__ Foot powder
__ Spare glasses/contact lenses
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