MM Collection
Checking in from the Condor's Nest on Illimani, Bolivia. MM Collection
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June 12, 2017

Two Weeks on Alaska Peaks

Alex and I climbed in Peru together in 2014. We managed to summit Yannapacha in difficult conditions, and Chopakalki in friendly conditions. On our trek out, Alex asked me my favorite place to climb.  "The Alaska range!" was my answer. I went on to explain the ski plane access, huge alpine features, and short approaches.  Alex was intrigued to say the least. 

Last fall he reached out to ask about climbing in Alaska, and we started planning objectives that would give him the Alaska experience as well as test his rock and ice climbing ability in the alpine. We settled on Ham and Eggs (V, 5.9, WI4) on the Moose's Tooth, and the SW Ridge of Peak 11300 (V, 5.8, WI3). We allotted two weeks for these objectives.  

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May 4, 2011

Ruth Gorge: Success on Peak 11,300 – final dispatch

Ahhh… Back in Anchorage where warm water, dry clothes and unprocessed food abound. It’s great to have a cup of coffee and reflect on a great trip in the Alaska Range. However, after 16 days of morning coffee with Mark it seems a bit out of place. Mark and I enjoyed a great window of weather with overall good conditions for our course and chosen objectives in the Ruth. [+] READ MORE

April 25, 2011

Ruth Gorge, AK-Fresh snow, weather improving

April 24th Dispatch Today, Saturday, we played in the snow a bunch- lots of it, over two feet of new overnight and 30 mph winds to keep the night interesting. Today we worked on skills including looking at the avalanche hazards and camp construction in stormy conditions. We also made plans for an Easter egg hunt. [+] READ MORE

April 21, 2011

Alaska season underway-first dispatch in from Ruth Gorge.

We have started our Alaska season with a trip into the Ruth Gorge. After an ascent of Mt. Barille, guide Dave Ahrens and Mark Heberlein will be reviewing some skills as part of a Ruth Glacier Expedition Training Course before moving onto to bigger objectives in the Gorge that may include the Moose’s Tooth and Peak 11,300. [+] READ MORE