MM Collection
Checking in from the Condor's Nest on Illimani, Bolivia. MM Collection
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June 12, 2017

Two Weeks on Alaska Peaks

Alex and I climbed in Peru together in 2014. We managed to summit Yannapacha in difficult conditions, and Chopakalki in friendly conditions. On our trek out, Alex asked me my favorite place to climb.  "The Alaska range!" was my answer. I went on to explain the ski plane access, huge alpine features, and short approaches.  Alex was intrigued to say the least. 

Last fall he reached out to ask about climbing in Alaska, and we started planning objectives that would give him the Alaska experience as well as test his rock and ice climbing ability in the alpine. We settled on Ham and Eggs (V, 5.9, WI4) on the Moose's Tooth, and the SW Ridge of Peak 11300 (V, 5.8, WI3). We allotted two weeks for these objectives.  


May 15, 2017

Mount Logan Expedition Heads to Base Camp

Our Logan Expedition, led by head guide Pablo Puruncajas and assistant guide Nick Malik, is finally headed to Base Camp today!


April 19, 2017

Tasty Ham and Eggs Climb Launches Alaska Season

Madness Guide Alan Rousseau writes in with some great images and description of an ideal climb of Ham and Eggs in the Alaska Range.


June 3, 2014

The Ruth Gorge Did Not Disappoint

Many times when climbers think of Alaska, attention goes to the prized Mt. McKinley (aka Denali), which stands as the highest point in North America. When I talk about the Ruth Gorge, the exchange goes as follows: 

Non-Climber: “How was Alaska?”

Me: “Great, we climbed in the Ruth Gorge.”

Non-Climber: “Is that near Denali?”


June 12, 2013

Getting Technical with Alaska Objectives

Aaron Kurland and I began talking about a trip into Denali base camp last summer while climbing in the Cascades.  Aaron had already taken two trips to base camp, one for a Denali prep course and another for an attempt on Denali.  However, last summer he discovered the joys of technical climbing.  We planned a trip to climb some of the steep ice and mixed routes located in the southeast fork of the Kahiltna glacier, and attempt Mt. Hunter’s West Ridge.