MM Collection
Checking in from the Condor's Nest on Illimani, Bolivia. MM Collection
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June 12, 2017

Two Weeks on Alaska Peaks

Alex and I climbed in Peru together in 2014. We managed to summit Yannapacha in difficult conditions, and Chopakalki in friendly conditions. On our trek out, Alex asked me my favorite place to climb.  "The Alaska range!" was my answer. I went on to explain the ski plane access, huge alpine features, and short approaches.  Alex was intrigued to say the least. 

Last fall he reached out to ask about climbing in Alaska, and we started planning objectives that would give him the Alaska experience as well as test his rock and ice climbing ability in the alpine. We settled on Ham and Eggs (V, 5.9, WI4) on the Moose's Tooth, and the SW Ridge of Peak 11300 (V, 5.8, WI3). We allotted two weeks for these objectives.  


May 21, 2010

Update from the Ruth Gorge!

Satellite phone reception is often poor in remote mountain ranges and Alaska's Ruth Gorge is no exception - it's a good indication of the scale of the valleys and the closeness and immensity of the peaks. But we have been able to check in with Dylan Taylor, Mark, and Peter who have been base camped beneath Peak 11,300 for the last few days (usually by repeated 1 minute long conversations!).


May 19, 2010

Team ready to tackle Peak 11,300 in the Alaska Range

It's springtime in Seattle -- which means that it's spring climbing season in the Alaska Range!  We're excited to announce that there's a Mountain Madness expedition on Peak 11,300, led by IFMGA-certified guide Dylan Taylor.  


May 13, 2010

Summit of Peak 11,300 and other local action

We had a brief satellite phone call from Mark Ryman and Aaron Clifford this morning. On Sunday May 16th they summitted Alaska's Peak 11,300 via the SW Ridge (Grade V, 5.8, 60’ ice).   The climb took 19 hrs and they camped on the summit before doing the standard descent the following day. Congrats to them for the send!